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Messages - scottyboy2203
1
« on: 12 November 2013, 04:38:07 pm »
I replaced the whole engine in my fazer a couple of winters ago on my own in a large shed with nothing but a bag of mixed halfords tools, some timber (for persuasion and protection) and a basic trolley jack. Its relatively easy, just fiddly and time-consuming. Hardest bit is lining up the bolts when re-fitting the engine in the frame, a friend would be useful then!
2
« on: 12 November 2013, 04:35:27 pm »
Hi foccers,
Just been through the pain of settling an insurance claim myself after a car backed into me. Thankfully the idiot accepted liability and his insurance is paying out. I'd like advice on the value of my fazer. Its a 2001 plate foxeye model with ~40k miles and in good mechanical condition, excellent cosmetic condition and recently serviced. Its got all the history etc etc. They've offered £1800, this seems reasonable to me...yay or neigh?
Ta!
3
« on: 18 October 2013, 02:55:17 pm »
Hi foccers,
Looking for some advice on a front fork swap for my 2001 fazer. Going through an insurnace claim atm for a blind t&$t who reversed into me and wondering how easily/cheaply I could repair the damage myself.
Which forks can I put in without too much hassle? Does it have to be another fazer '01?
Whilst we're at it, any advice on where to get new front fairing and mudguards?
Ta!
4
« on: 13 October 2013, 06:34:49 pm »
Thanks punkstig! When I say slip road, I mean the road into a shop car park off the main road. He was overtaking parked cars on our side, however it was not clear. He stopped, popped it in reverse and flew back at me (I was stationary in my lane as I'd seen it was not clear). Unfortunately all the witnesses simply buggered off to do their shopping! He was quite sure he would accept full blame so fingers X'd he'll keep that attitude! My insurance is only TPFT so will have to claim through his, although I do have Legal Expenses included on my policy. Will call both mine and his insurers tomorrow and see how it proceeds. My clothing is fine but leg is sore, no visible damage though! didn't manage to get my food shop done in the end...claim for hunger?? 
5
« on: 13 October 2013, 05:11:42 pm »
best thing to do is drain the carb bowls so they dont foul with crap fuel. Then when you bring it out of storage (if its a couple of months or more), change the oil and put fresh fuel in. As long as the battery is good then it should be fine.
6
« on: 13 October 2013, 05:02:40 pm »
Hi foccers,
Had my trusty favour nicely sorted after a service/MOT and took her out to the shops for a treat...then some plonker decided to reverse into me on the slip road. After he'd finished humping the front end of my fazer with his people tank (carrier) we exchanged insurance details. Apparently he thought he'd hit a bollard....Totally his fault etc.
Anyway, I need some advice, I rode the 1 mile home and found the bars/forks don't hold straight without slight right hand input. What's the best way of checking bent forks/frame etc? All the plastics are fooked so does anyone have any experience of insurance claims and whether this will be fixed/written off? And lastly, despite it not being my fault am I likely to be stung with excess/higher premiums?
Thanks!
ps no vultures please.
7
« on: 23 August 2013, 06:40:26 pm »
bump?
8
« on: 22 August 2013, 10:12:33 pm »
speaking as a tall foccer I prefer the bungs to the crash bars I had previously simply cos I can stretch my legs out on them! 
9
« on: 22 August 2013, 02:04:15 pm »
can you email me at ss359@le.ac.uk so we can arrange payment and delivery, I don't want to put bank details etc on an open forum! ta
10
« on: 20 August 2013, 07:44:25 pm »
Don't know but I don't think so, I'd go with the metal one tbh. It is road legal, no markings saying otherwise.
11
« on: 19 August 2013, 12:11:18 pm »
BUMP!
13
« on: 15 August 2013, 11:34:46 am »
Hi yes just slips on. May need a new gasket when you pop it on so it doesn't blow.
I'm in Leicester LE2 1ZA. Message me on ss359@le.ac.uk as I check that often.
14
« on: 13 August 2013, 05:17:30 pm »
Micron stainless steel end can and link pipe for FZS600. Few scuffs but in good condition. Pics show scuff on the rear of the can (unseen when on the bike), and a scuff on the back of the can (near the exit) which should buff out but isn't too obvious. Both the link pipe and strap are inc. Looking for £70+pp (no more than £10).
15
« on: 31 July 2013, 04:25:15 pm »
Thanks for responses foccers. I can't take the screen off, it's the only one I have! Rest is good advice.
No offers though...anyone?
16
« on: 29 July 2013, 06:54:15 pm »
Hi foccers, looking to sell my 2002 blue FZS600 foxeye model fazer. It's been sat in the garage all year and I'm moving house so need to clear some space. Not sure what she's worth but have a figure of £1100-1200 in my head (crazy?). Heres the details:
Good:
- Good tyres BT021s with plenty of life.
- Oil/filter/spark all done recently (<500 miles).
- New Yuasa battery as of today.
- Datatool Alarm (S3) and Datatag ID.
- FSH
- Monokey rack (no box).
- Crash bungs.
- Full stainless exhaust.
- Yamaha DB screen.
- Fazer branded radiator guard and mud fender extender.
- Rear hugger.
Bad bits:
- 41,500 miles.
- Camchain started rattling recently, minor but noticeable.
- Good cosmetic condition, few marks and some minor paint flaking on the engine/rad.
- No tax (negotiable).
- MOT til end of Aug 2013 (this year!).
ok people whats the foccers concensus??
17
« on: 29 July 2013, 06:50:31 pm »
test...
18
« on: 27 July 2013, 10:53:56 am »
Hi rus, how did you diagnose it as uneven stretching out of interest? Any luck replacing it yet?
19
« on: 06 May 2013, 08:55:55 pm »
if you get the cam chain replaced do you really need to have a new tensioner?? surely it's just reset and reused unless it is broken...
20
« on: 06 November 2012, 11:03:47 pm »
I just replaced some CR9E's with more of the same and after around 5k miles the plugs were in good condition! (apart from rust on the outside nut caused by blocked drain holes!)
21
« on: 05 November 2012, 12:30:40 pm »
OK, that definitely sounds like a new chain is needed! Hope it's not too expensive..
22
« on: 04 November 2012, 10:52:04 pm »
how do you know the cam chain is stretched and needs replacing out of interest?
23
« on: 04 November 2012, 10:38:58 pm »
just to put my 2p in, excess heat heat in a wire is a sign of too much current being drawn through it. Since the voltage and resistance of the wire/alternator is fixed (within a small range depending on engine revs and heat etc) it's only current that can change dramatically. This is usually caused by something drawing too much, like a faulty bulb or short-circuit. The common mistake is to think that the alternator/battery produced too much power/current but its the other way round, the bulb draws the current it wants and the alternator/battery tries to provide it. So my point is that you probably have a short circuit between the fuse and the headlight or a faulty bulb that is drawing too much current and then melting the fuse. I've probably rambled on enough though...  overheating = too much current
24
« on: 02 November 2012, 04:01:55 pm »
Well last time I took it to a dealer he suggested doing carb balance, replace all fluids/filters/spark plugs etc but that does send the bill sky high and isn't always necessary.
If you are just checking clearance and everything is fine then just pop it back together and ride it!
25
« on: 02 November 2012, 12:09:00 pm »
Major Rant, as an engineer that last bit had me laughing more than I should admit!
Consensus seems to be checking that they are within tolerance at the required mileage is worth doing as it is really rather easy to do. If you find they are out of the specified range (~0.1mm range, which is quite large as motorbike engines go!) then decide if you can sort it or instead use a mechanic. This shouldn't cost an arm and a leg, most expensive bit will mostly likely be shims and a couple of hours labour. Most mechanics will suggest full service at same time since he has to take everything off to do the job!
Happy riding!
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