Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: jan.van.gent on 11 April 2016, 08:40:15 pm
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Hi everyone,
I just bought (2 weeks ago) a fazer FZS600.
I bought the bike when the fuel was on reserve, so I never noticed at that time that the fuel gauge doesn't work.
However, the light goes on when in reserve.
Any ideas what might cause this (gauge not working, warning light does work)?
I checked the connection and seems like it's OK.
I'm also wondering if I should replace the front sprocket nut, on this 2001 model?
Should I order at dealer or is there a better aftermarket alternative?
Best regards,
Jan
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So just to be clear, are you saying that with a full tank of fuel the low fuel level light is still on?
Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk
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Hi Punkstig,
The warning light works correctly. So it's off when full, and goes on when almost empty. So the functions properly.
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mine the same for the last four years. the light all ways comes on when fuel getting low about a quater of a tank left when light stays fully light
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Am i missing something here?
The fuel light goes on when fuel is low, but not when there's plenty of fuel in the tank? :look
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The warning light works properly (fuel low -> light on, enough fuel -> light off)
However, the gauge doesn't work (it always shows zero fuel in the tank, no matter how much fuel is in the tank).
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Tbh, on this bike that's not really a problem as you'll be able to get 40 miles before refilling when the light comes on, but I can understand the frustration on sort of not knowing!
(edited on account of being incorrect about the sender working ok)
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-YAMAHA-FZS600-FAZER-FRONT-SPROCKET-NUT-AND-WASHER-KIT-/141276105948?hash=item20e4b64cdc:g:naQAAOSwq7JT4V3x (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-YAMAHA-FZS600-FAZER-FRONT-SPROCKET-NUT-AND-WASHER-KIT-/141276105948?hash=item20e4b64cdc:g:naQAAOSwq7JT4V3x)
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The sender works on a resistance coil with an arm controlled by float. If the bike has been sat for any length of time with a near empty tank corrosion can build up on the wire coil which will affect the way the sensor sends the signal to the gauge.
Empty the tank and remove the sender from the bottom of the tank and you will see contact points on the end of the float arm if you can see corrosion clean it up with some scotchbrite (nothing to abrasive) and then flush with some brake cleaner.
This should help, if not and there is nothing wrong with the wiring then replace the sender
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I bought the bike when it has been sitting for a while, and yes indeed with an almost empty tank! So that's a great suggestion! Thanks.
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Or the windings in the needle part of the gauge are goosed
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Hi,
I had the same problem with my fazer... I bought a new fuel sender and that fixed it. I think it cost me 15 quid. Before you replace it try and use up as much petrol then turn the fuel tank upside down do the replacement. Make sure you tighten it up well.... Also when buying a new sender make sure you buy the right one, there is a 3 pin and a 4 pin one. check how many pins yours have and buy the same (the white plastic electrical thing).
Otherwise probably one of the easiest jobs you can do on the fazer!
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160419/51b8a9edc9f06bcaa06c4db18b5b207b.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160419/4d78bded27efb5ccdfd1ebcb1cae7ada.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160419/cbf41831d68f26fa1a2f390059dee8f4.jpg)
Ordered a new nut at the Yamaha dealer but it looks like its not the updated one... :(
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That is the part number for the old nut.
correct kit number which includes the Nut and washer is 90891-10124
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[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-YAMAHA-FZS600-FAZER-FRONT-SPROCKET-NUT-AND-WASHER-KIT-/141276105948?hash=item20e4b64cdc:g:naQAAOSwq7JT4V3x[/url] ([url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-YAMAHA-FZS600-FAZER-FRONT-SPROCKET-NUT-AND-WASHER-KIT-/141276105948?hash=item20e4b64cdc:g:naQAAOSwq7JT4V3x[/url])
I sent you the link for the new upgraded one, and when fitted will be totally flush to the end with no thread showing at all.
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Hi I have a fuel gauge problem too except mine doesn't work at all .... It looks like the wrong sensor has been fitted because the wiring loom has a 3 pin plug fitted but the sender only has 2 I'm going to change it and was wondering if I also need a gasket? I'm totally new to bikes (first 1) and only had it a week it's a pretty clean 99 with a couple of niggley bits like the fuel gauge
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Hi, I've just fixed mine after 3 years of not having any reading at all. Maybe this will help you or someone else.
About 3 years ago mine failed completely. I had a eureka moment a couple of weeks ago and decided to go straight for a 12v issue and assume the sender was ok. I havent found this solution anywhere else on the internet
In essence, this was the problem. Somewhere inside the instrument unit, the positive had shorted out so i have bypassed it. I know this because putting 12volts across the fuel gauge gave me a tank full reading.
here is how i did it.
1. remove side panels and screen.
2. remove instrument panel connector and undo 3 nuts.
3. undo the 7 screws on the back of the panel
4. remove the unit from the housing. DO NOT place it face down in order to avoid damage to needles.
6. Remove the 3 screws on the fuel gauge.
7. The positive terminal is the top screw- put a small piece of electrical tape over the hole in the circuit board to prevent voltage going into the pcb.
Make a hole in the electrical tape so the screw will go back in.
8. wrap a piece of exposed wire around the screw and screw the gauge back into the display.
9. make a small hole in the housing (There is a blanked off hole already. Just pierce it.
10. Feed the length of wire through.
11. reassemble the instrument display and replace it on the bike.
12. Using the right hand side side light cabling, join the new wire from the fuel gauge to the blue/white positive cable taking a 12volt feed from it.
You now need the spare key
Open the fuel tank with the spare key. Put the other key in the ignition. turn it on. You should now get a reading on the gauge which is indicative of the fuel level. This can take a few mins to settle.
Using a coat hanger or hook of some sort, lift the sender in the tank to check that the gauge climbs. Once at the very top (about 2 mins) let it down to the current fuel level and remove the hook.
Thats it, put it all back together and its job done.... :)
hopefully this helps some people with the same issue i had. This is only for a break in the positive circuit and does not fault find sender unit issues.
All told it took about an hour with taking parts off and replacing, wire stripping and making bullet connectors etc...
Do not be tempted to reconnect the instrument display without it being in the housing. Too many earthed parts on the bike to cause permanent damage to the instrument unit. £440 from Yamaha for a new one and not much cheaper on the second hand market.
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Hi I have a fuel gauge problem too except mine doesn't work at all .... It looks like the wrong sensor has been fitted because the wiring loom has a 3 pin plug fitted but the sender only has 2 I'm going to change it and was wondering if I also need a gasket? I'm totally new to bikes (first 1) and only had it a week it's a pretty clean 99 with a couple of niggley bits like the fuel gauge
Fuel sender on Foxeyes were 2 pin and fuel sender on Boxeyes were 3 pin, I have never yet had to replace a gasket on a sender unit after removing it.
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Hi, I've just fixed mine after 3 years of not having any reading at all. Maybe this will help you or someone else.
About 3 years ago mine failed completely. I had a eureka moment a couple of weeks ago and decided to go straight for a 12v issue and assume the sender was ok. I havent found this solution anywhere else on the internet
In essence, this was the problem. Somewhere inside the instrument unit, the positive had shorted out so i have bypassed it. I know this because putting 12volts across the fuel gauge gave me a tank full reading.
here is how i did it.
1. remove side panels and screen.
2. remove instrument panel connector and undo 3 nuts.
3. undo the 7 screws on the back of the panel
4. remove the unit from the housing. DO NOT place it face down in order to avoid damage to needles.
6. Remove the 3 screws on the fuel gauge.
7. The positive terminal is the top screw- put a small piece of electrical tape over the hole in the circuit board to prevent voltage going into the pcb.
Make a hole in the electrical tape so the screw will go back in.
8. wrap a piece of exposed wire around the screw and screw the gauge back into the display.
9. make a small hole in the housing (There is a blanked off hole already. Just pierce it.
10. Feed the length of wire through.
11. reassemble the instrument display and replace it on the bike.
12. Using the right hand side side light cabling, join the new wire from the fuel gauge to the blue/white positive cable taking a 12volt feed from it.
You now need the spare key
Open the fuel tank with the spare key. Put the other key in the ignition. turn it on. You should now get a reading on the gauge which is indicative of the fuel level. This can take a few mins to settle.
Using a coat hanger or hook of some sort, lift the sender in the tank to check that the gauge climbs. Once at the very top (about 2 mins) let it down to the current fuel level and remove the hook.
Thats it, put it all back together and its job done.... :)
hopefully this helps some people with the same issue i had. This is only for a break in the positive circuit and does not fault find sender unit issues.
All told it took about an hour with taking parts off and replacing, wire stripping and making bullet connectors etc...
Do not be tempted to reconnect the instrument display without it being in the housing. Too many earthed parts on the bike to cause permanent damage to the instrument unit. £440 from Yamaha for a new one and not much cheaper on the second hand market.
Holly thread revival Batman!
This seems to be where I'm at. Not tried 12v across the gauge yet. But I do seem to have a certain amount or 12v missing in the fuel gauge area. Doing some point to point testing tomorrow end I guess. My sensor is reading 96ohms at quite full. So that seems a good reading
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tested the wiring ok.
shorted out the green sender cable and gauge goes up.
shorted the other wire out and the fuel warning light comes on.
therefore the sender is faulty. So i removed the sender, cleaned the anodisation off it.
All is good in Koreanbaz world.