Down pipes

[hightower]

I know Buzz, I'm like the 3 year old that never does what he's told. To be honest, it was just too tempting, with that much of the stud showing still I honestly thought I had a great chance to get it removed and do the job properly.


Now I'm paying for it, but it's giving me some good experience as well as allowing me to do a job I've wanted to do since I got the bike last year.

[hightower]

Ok, I need some advice (or opinions).


I have a few options:


1) Drill the head myself, fixing in a new helicoil - costing about £10 for the helicoil kit
2) Pay to get a shop to drill it for me - costs about £25. Gives peace of mind but won't have chance to take to shop until next week!
3) Don't drill the thread, but instead try an easy out on the stud, after using heat and penetrating oil


I like option three, as it's cheapest and easiest (if it works). However, how much heat can I put on this stud/the head around it? Too much will damage the alloy head right? There's no stud protruding to heat that by itself - if I heat the stud I also heat the head. Also, how realistic am I at getting it out this way - the last thing I want to do is snap an easy out in there too, surely that would be game over?


Need some help, the sooner the better so I can order the bits I need.


Thanks,

[unfazed]

Forget option 3 to easy to break the "easy out" because of the small size required. If that happens it is a real pain in the ass to get it out.

[hightower]

Thanks for response. I'd decided that about 10 minutes after I posted I think, just saw too many reviews saying it had snapped and didn't want to risk it.


So, head is off and ready to take in to work to drill out and helicoil it - hope the helicoil kit comes tomorrow so I can start the rebuild.


Another question - when I pulled the head it split away from the crankcase at the lower end too - so the head is off but the middle section is also loose (the bit that holds the piston - is it all called the head or does it have a different name). Anyway, I was planning on pulling this off tomorrow to help paint - if I do is there anything to be aware of (special tools required, additional parts etc). It's already split from the engine a bit so guessing I need a new gasket for it?

[hightower]

So the latest update is, the hole is drilled and helicoiled. It's not exactly centred so interested to see how much free there is in downpipe flange - may need to drill one of them to make the mounting hole a little larger - we'll see.


It took some drilling, but steady away with some cobalt bits - the DT department at work really helped me out.


So now I have a nice fresh hole ready for my replacement stud. But first things first. I need to clean/paint outside (and possibly inside now too), as well as lapping the valves.


Someone from the DT department said to use a dishwasher tablet and some soft brushes to degrease the head before painting. Can anybody verify if this is a) safe to do and b) works well? Also, I was going to use some carb cleaner to clean up the insides (some alloy from the drilling has entered inside - could use a good clean. Is this safe?


Open to suggestions for cleaning and painting - I have some VHT header paint, but would be hard masking the head off, so was thinking to cover it with something using a brush and just going steady.


Any help at all appreciated.

[Dead Eye]

So now I have a nice fresh hole ready for my replacement stud.

That's what she said 


I'm sorry, I just couldn't resist, too much of a perfect opportunity :P

[hightower]

Ok foccers, today is the big day. Yesterday I lapped and reinstalled the valves, and painted the block and head. Today is the day when I try to get it all back together.


If I'm sat revving a bike at 4pm I'll be very very happy. Although I do expect this process to be slow going, so not exactly confident it will all be finished today.


Here goes, wish me luck. (Starting with some fried eggs for energy)

[Gazbo]

Back to the top of the subject. I got my stainless downpipes from sandybikespares (ebay). They have been spot on so far (about 1500 miles), BUT... the header gaskets, although appearing to be fine quality, keep freeing off in the bores( I suppose they are gradually collapsing down, and then they rattle in the slot when below 3k revs.Seriously - it sounds like you are about to drop a rod ! I Tightened studs a bit more ( even though I had given them a proper Post heat cycle re-torque). It cured everything for about 1.3k. Gradually it has come back to haunt. Tonight on the way home, as I passed parked cars, the reflected sound was akin to someone shaking a bag o' spanners next to me ! Tightened again. Cured again. I'm now well off the torque setting. So I won't be doing it any more. The garage said I should have put OEM seals in. Well you just don't do you. not when these came with the pipes. But I'm gonna - next time it rattles. So in a nutshell - the pipes are fine. I was not overly impressed with the gaskets - that's all. And if yours suddenly sounds like Cozy Powell riding his  hi-hats when he's pissed - take a breather. Might not be a rod. or cam chain tensioner etc.etc. Just check the exhaust nuts are nipped up propperly first! Careful - Not too much though !!!