So it's been a long time since I've been on here and I don't know if the person who bought my Gen.1 is on this forum but I fitted the 2011 BMW S1000RR rear shock to my bike and it was excellent, especially given that I only paid £100 for it in excellent condition. You have to drill the bottom fork hole out if I remember correctly to accept the stock Fazer bottom bolt, some have put extra washers in the top mount but I had a friend who made me new top hat bushes.
I put a post up at the time you should find it on a search, the best £100 I spent on my bike.

could be the inlet rubbers leaking by (the o rings around the inlet valve bodies) I suppose, theres certainly anecdotal evidence of it happening on other forums. I could send you four o rings (the same ones mike uses) if you want them gratis mate, but youve obviously gotta pull the carbs to change them. at least you'll be able to check your float heights too. as a rule of thumb mines ivanised and I get 160-180 a tank depending on how im riding

I'm quite happy to pay for them as I wouldn't expect you to be out of pocket as it would be worth a try, I did quite meticulously check the float levels when I did the Ivans kit a few months ago, do they go out that often? I'm slightly flummoxed as fuel consumption aside the bike runs fine, no spluttering on tick over, picks up quickly and no misfires or poor running right through the rev range? 

Mine are the Amazon ones, Safego. Can't comment on the others. I have had a set in mine for about 18 months with no issues.

Thanks for the reply, I don't know if these are the same as Ogri48 fitted, were there any problems with fitting these as most f these by their nature appear to have quite a lump at the back end?

I clicked on the previous link for the LED bulbs on Amazon and it says currently unavailable, I don't want to overload my charging system so am I better with LED bulbs and if so which ones, I don't mind them being expensive if they're good, or should I go with a HID kit, do they draw less current but produce more light?
Sorry to be thick but it would be nice to have some advice from those who have done either.

An advancer makes the bike more tractable at low revs and easier to start which is definitely useful, the trade-off is a slightly lower peak power figure which in the real world you won't notice.


It is easy to fit, the only issue is the retaining bolt which can be pretty tight, I put the bike in gear and blocks under the rear wheel to stop it turning, I'd invest in a replacement gasket before starting the job.


My bike has the full monty and a decent end can, I wouldn't go back to the stock timing.

Thanks for the replies, is this the gasket for the casing on the right hand end ff the engine?

I've seen people make mention of a 4 degree ignition advancer, is it worth fitting one of these and f so are they hard to fit? My bike is fitted with an Ivans Full Monty kit and Remus can.

I have for sale an MRA dark tint double bubble screen for a 2006> Yamaha FZ1 Fazer, some very minor marks, as can be seen someone mounted this incorrectly and the tint has rubbed away at two points (I shall endeavour to touch these in, the screen itself is tinted it's just a paint on tint to darken the base), one very tiny chip in it, but overall in excellent condition and a cheap screen for someone £30.00 inc. p&p
https://www.mrashop.de/com/model-based-products/yamaha/fz-1-fazer/bj-06/6927/fz1-fazer-racing-windscreen-r-2006?c=90005758

Leo Vince oval slip on exhaust can removed from my 2002 Yamaha Fazer 10000. This should fit any bike with the common 51 mm link pipe.It is road legal with a fixed baffle although with a little ingenuity a skilled person could modify this.It is in excellent condition with one very minor scrape, as per the photo, which was on it when I bought the bike and could likely be polished out.It comes with the mounting strap, which is also in excellent condition, but without a link pipe or retaining spring, which are cheap enough to replace.
£70.00 inc. p&p.

Thanks for the replies guys, I have a proper full size charger which I believe can test the battery and see if there are any dead cells.

As always, check your earth connections before doing any further troubleshooting with electrical faults.

Good shout, thanks Mike, I checked the battery last night and at rest it's 12.88, now I know it's a 12 volt battery but I'm thinking that's possibly a little low with no load on it?

So i got my bike out today to go for a ride with my friends having last ridden it last Saturday, as usual the bike fires straight up, I go to the garage again the same thing hop on fires straight up, get to meeting point have a coffee and leave and again it starts straight up. So a little further up the road we pull over and stop while one of the others fills up with petrol and bike doesn't fire and second push on the button the engine is slow to turn over, third push and barely turns one revolution.


Fortunately as it was warm it only took a brief push to bump start it and for the rest of the day no further problems, I checked the batter when I got home and these were the figures I got. Static ignition off 13.4 volts, engine running no lights 14.4 volts, engine running lights on 13.8 volts, these were all at tick over as I couldn't hold the multi meter on the battery and twist the throttle at the same time.


The bike doesn't have an alarm fitted so no rain on the battery whilst the bike is not in use and in the week prior to last Saturday it sat connected to my Optimate, any ideas peeps?

I’d read a few reports where people were nervous about tapping the stubs. Honestly it was really easy, now getting to the plugs is so straightforward.

I never bothered with that, I bought an Ivans AIS block off kit but I also bought a set of machined aluminium caps off a member on here that literally just go over the stock stub. i undid the bolts for the radiator just to give me a little wiggle room but didn't need to remove or drain it, a little blue loctite on the grub screws and no need to touch anything else to get them on, job was a good'un.