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Messages - shrekster
51
« on: 12 February 2015, 09:15:56 am »
I'm 6'4" and I reckon I've tried about 8 different screens on my Fazer including the MRA one. My main issue isn't the wind blast but the noise, after trying so many I've reverted back to the original, it's the best of a bad lot.
Jim
52
« on: 14 December 2014, 10:22:02 am »
Hi,
You don't need to block the little coolant pipes on the carbs, you'll have to either block the outlet at the thermostat and the little one on the rad or as I did link them both with a short piece of hose.
The holes below the exhaust ports can be CAREFULLY tapped and sealed with a bolt.
Jim.
53
« on: 26 November 2014, 09:49:34 am »
I've contacted Christian regarding a multi gauge but he won't have any until next year, if anyone has one they won't use and want to sell let me know.
Cheers,
Jim.
54
« on: 04 November 2014, 04:01:38 pm »
I have never seen the little bush on the valve wear, It'd be a first in my experience. I'd pull the valve out and inspect it first, hopefully the bolts won't be too badly corroded and you'll get them out without resorting to drilling out broken bolts.
Once you get the valve apart clean everything to remove corrosion and dirt, the valve should rotate easily in the little side plate. If not keep cleaning until it does, apply anti seize compound to the valve shaft and assemble. With the valve bolted in place it should turn easily by finger pressure only, connect up the pulley and check the cable adjustment.
It sounds to me as though the valve may already be free if you can hear a rattle, it might just be a case of lubing everything to quiet down the rattle.
Jim.
55
« on: 03 November 2014, 04:18:12 pm »
Well done you jammy #### ! Make sure you replace all the bolts for A4 stainless and lube the valve spindle and bolts with copper grease or equivalent anti seize compound.
I lube mine twice a year to keep it free, I can do it in less than 15 minutes now so it's no great hassle.
Jim.
56
« on: 02 November 2014, 08:00:07 am »
Hi, I think most owners have had ths problem to some degree, some like me get lucky when taking the old bolts out. I replaced all the bolts with stainless and lube them a couple of times a year.The exup is a great idea if only all the bolts and various parts were stainless steel but Yamaha decided mild steel would be sufficient.
Extracting the old bolts shouldn't be too much of a problem but the broken tap is more of a challenge, if the valve is not damaged beyond repair you could get the tap spark eroded at an engineering shop. From experience trying to drill it out is just a waste of drill bits.
You could look for one second hand on eBay but they are very rare on their own, a better bet is to look for an exhaust complete with valve from either a Fazer or R1 '98-'01. You might find one for under £100 if your lucky.
Best of luck.
Jim.
57
« on: 28 October 2014, 07:39:52 pm »
I'll take one as well.
Jim
58
« on: 28 October 2014, 07:37:53 pm »
I'll take one as well.
Jim.
59
« on: 28 October 2014, 07:36:35 pm »
I'll take one as well.
Jim.
60
« on: 12 October 2014, 11:51:05 am »
On a cold engine the ecu will add more fuel anyway, intermittent starting is nearly always an electrical issue like a faulty sensor or poor contact somewhere. If your battery is good I'd look at all the connectors one by one and put a little electrical grease on the terminals to stop moisture getting in. I had this issue with a gen1 fazer, turned out it was a poor contact on one of the fuses, it had been spark eroded so much that one of the fuse terminals was just a stump. A 20p replacement fuse cured it.
Jim.
61
« on: 20 September 2014, 08:22:51 pm »
Most likely one or both discs are warped, when riding along try pulling the brake on just a tiny bit, you will probably feel it pulsing at the brake lever. Do you know anyone with the same bike? You could try their front wheel and see if the vibration disappears.
Jim.
62
« on: 15 September 2014, 10:12:34 pm »
I'll check mine tomorrow and see what kind of numbers I get.
Jim.
63
« on: 15 September 2014, 08:01:05 pm »
Take the fuse out for the lights and try again .
Jim.
64
« on: 15 September 2014, 07:41:38 pm »
Try to get a voltage reading while holding the revs at 3000rpm or higher, let us know what sort of figures you are getting.
Jim.
65
« on: 15 September 2014, 07:35:14 pm »
What wattage bulbs have you fitted? Why have you altered the wiring on dipped beam? If you pull the fuse to the lights and the voltage reading goes up that would suggest the bulbs are the problem.
Jim.
66
« on: 15 September 2014, 07:30:53 pm »
You might be lucky and get a used one that hasn't been cut or butchered. I waited for months for one to come up on eBay but I got fed up waiting so bought a new one from Mr Yamaha, cost about £85.
Jim.
67
« on: 09 September 2014, 08:19:43 pm »
There's a large white electrical block connector on the left side fairing, my last fazer had a misfire and cleaning it cured it. It was showing signs of green corrosion, I used electrical contact cleaner then electrical grease to keep water out. Worth a try.
Jim.
68
« on: 09 September 2014, 08:12:18 pm »
I sold my last fazer mainly due to the vibes, I tried everything, TPS adjustment, loosening the engine mounts, balancing carbs etc. I even bought a new front engine cradle to replace the rubber mounts, nothing worked. I sold it and bought a Pan Euro, sold that and I bought another fazer last year and it's the best of the 3 I've had, almost completely smooth at all revs. It seems you can get a good or bad one when it comes to vibration levels.
One thing I did notice was that sometimes the vibes were really bad, I could stop for fuel and when I set off again it was much smoother, this could also work in reverse I.e. It'd be smoothish, then I'd stop then the vibes would appear when I set off again. Just couldn't figure it out. It was definitely engine related because if I rode at any speed and pull the clutch in the vibes disappeared completely, let the clutch out and bring the revs up again the vibes were back.
Hope you sort something out.
Jim.
69
« on: 04 September 2014, 06:25:12 pm »
Oops, ok ta.
70
« on: 04 September 2014, 11:06:15 am »
How much for the crash bungs?
71
« on: 12 August 2014, 10:20:12 am »
The basic problem is the high speed compression damping is too hard and isn't adjustable. The only way to change it is to put in a different shim stack, you could try lighter oil but the rebound is already near the max and this would only make it worse. Even with the compression adjuster fully out there is no effect on how the fork deals with big bumps.
Jim.
72
« on: 07 August 2014, 12:17:36 am »
Errr...... eBay.co.uk
73
« on: 06 August 2014, 07:31:07 pm »
The visor shop are selling off all their old stock of Micron exhausts, full systems, cans etc. I could only see one can for a gen 1 fazer but lots of full systems for other bikes. All listed on eBay.
Jim
74
« on: 28 July 2014, 12:20:35 am »
What's the mirror mod??
Jim.
75
« on: 10 July 2014, 10:13:21 pm »
Was just browsing looking at stuff on EBay and found a Sigma clutch for an R1, notice the number of oil holes in the clutch centre. The Yamaha one has far less, the picture is from the Sigma website.
Jim.
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