Changing FZ6 Fazer Rear Brake Pads

[Grahamm]

I need to replace the rear pads on my FZ6 (04-06 model) and, according to Haynes, I need to put a piece of tube over the bleed nipple when I push the pistons back into the caliper.

What I don't know is what size tube I need (or how much).

It suggests putting the end into a "suitable container", but if I have a long enough length of tube (securing it to the grab rail for instance), surely I wonldn't need to as it would just flow up into the tube and I could avoid getting any bubbles into the system.

Anyone know if this would work or got any helpful advice?

[misterjayb1]

The pistons should push back without touching the bleed nipple, providing the brake fluid reservoir hasnt been overfilled. Hopefully they wont put up too much of a fight 

[Grahamm]

I'm going to have to change the fluid at some point anyway, so  I go this from Wemoto: Brake Bleeding Assistor Kit when I bought the new pads.

It's a bit of a rip-off at £10 for a bit of tubing and a non-return valve, but it should be useful enough.

[misterjayb1]

I picked up a small bleed kit a while back. Simple idea with a one way valve between 2 lengths of clear pipe. Still doesnt prevent me bleeding the brakes the old school way but I guess it stops any chance of air re-entering the system at any point. That small grub screw covering the brake pin allen head on the caliper gave me more of a headache tho. Hope you get it sorted fella

[chaz]

If you push the piston fully in and wedge it, then open the bleed nipple and pump the old fluid out the way you bleed brakes but before it runs out top it up with new fluid keep bleeding till all the old fluid is expelled, this way you don't get any air in the system and can just use a bit of pipe.

[Grahamm]

I finally got around to doing it today, although it was a bit of a hassle.

Firstly I wish I misterjayb1's post again before I did, because although removing the pad pin cover wasn't a problem, I couldn't figure out how to get the pad pin out (the pic in the Haynes manual wasn't clear) until I realised it was an Allen bolt! It wouldn't come undone easily, but eventually after squirting WD-40 onto it and giving it a few taps with a rubber camping mallet, it shifted.

Getting the caliper off wasn't too much problem, but pushing the piston back definitely was. I put the pipe on the bleed nozzle and slackened the nut off, but I could only get the piston back as far as when the fluid got to the non-return valve. Eventually I had to put the new pads in, then use a screwdriver behind one to push the piston back further to give enough clearance to get it back over the brake disc.

I was a bit worried that I could see bubbles in the bleed pipe, but suddenly discovered that they were as a result of it it not being seated on the bleed nipple securely when it suddenly slipped off (there was an extra spring-clip in the package and I think that's what it was for) and I started getting brake fluid running down onto the swing arm!

I quickly closed the valve and fortunately I had some kitchen roll to wipe it up. I got a bit on the tyre too, but I figure that since brake lines are rubber, it's not going to do any damage, but I gave it a quick rinse off with some water to be on the safe side.

Anyway, I eventually got the piston back and the caliper re-seated and went for a quick ride around the block. It had started to rain a bit which was actually useful, because it meant that when I stamped on the brake I could feel the ABS cut in, so everything was working fine

[misterjayb1]

Im not too offended you didnt read my post honest  .. As long as that piston isnt sticking on the way back out and the wheel spins freely enough on the centre stand then all should be good