since fitting manual cam chain tensioner and carburation problem

[solorider]

I have noticed since fitting a manual cam chain tensioner my bike vibes less, is that the case with most or is it just me.
now I have just got to fix the carburation problem, I have issues with carburation just over tick over, I have stripped the carbs twice and cleaned them including blowing them through with a compressor. the carbs are clean and the bike has not been stood up for a great length of time. the fact my bike has over 72k miles on it could the carbs be worn causing this? I don't want to spend money on an ivans kit if the faults is with the carbs

[solorider]

Anyone???

[Falcon 269]

What sort of issues?  You didn't say exactly.

Carb synch?  Not standing doesn't prevent some possibility of minor carb gumming in the smaller holes.  Have you perhaps picked up some dirty fuel?  Dirty fuel filter, maybe?

[solorider]

The problem I have is at very low revs, from tick over to about 2k revs, which is a pain in traffic and when pulling off when you don't need high revs. I have stripped the carbs twice and they are spotless inside, I have used a air compressor to blow them through and I have totally stripped them down, as to the fuel no as I have used several different fuel stations in between, as to carb balance I would say no as I have a good idle and the bike is vibe free as an inline 4 can be. I have had bikes with out of sync carbs so I do know when the carbs are out. Another maybe related is the bike does not like choke, it now plays up and will only fire on 2 or 3, I have to knock the choke off and keep trying to start the bike, I never use to have issues with the choke,

[Simon.Pieman]

Partially blocked airbox snorkel?

[Fazerider]

Are the fuel levels in the carbs OK?

[solorider]

Partially blocked airbox snorkel?

Would that not affect high revs more than low revs, above 2k revs I have no issues, my bike has plenty of power.

[Hedgetrimmer]

The problem I have is at very low revs, from tick over to about 2k revs, which is a pain in traffic and when pulling off when you don't need high revs. I have stripped the carbs twice and they are spotless inside, I have used a air compressor to blow them through and I have totally stripped them down, as to the fuel no as I have used several different fuel stations in between, as to carb balance I would say no as I have a good idle and the bike is vibe free as an inline 4 can be. I have had bikes with out of sync carbs so I do know when the carbs are out. Another maybe related is the bike does not like choke, it now plays up and will only fire on 2 or 3, I have to knock the choke off and keep trying to start the bike, I never use to have issues with the choke,

You still haven't said exactly what it's doing/not doing. I take it you are aware of the standard glitchiness of the thous down low? Or is it doing something else beyond that? Is it something that it hasn't always done since you've had the bike? If so, did you carry out any other work just previous to the symptoms appearing?
Once again, I doubt I'll be the one to come up with the solution, but I think these are the kinds of things people who might be able to help would want to know.

[unfazed]

What exactly is the problem, it is not to clear in your posts?

[Simon.Pieman]

Partially blocked airbox snorkel?

Would that not affect high revs more than low revs, above 2k revs I have no issues, my bike has plenty of power.

Maybe, but it's worth checking anyway since it wouldn't take 5 mins.
 

[solorider]

What exactly is the problem, it is not to clear in your posts?

the problem is I have a case where the engine feels like it has cut out on 2 cylinders, but only below 2k revs, above that I have no issues and the bike goes like stink, I have stripped and rebuilt the carbs twice, I had a look at the floats and the levels which were all identical, I have a good steady idle, the problem is worse when cold, when pulling off when you need low revs it can be a nightmare, the bike has 72k revs so could worn carbs be the issue? I cant see anything wrong with them, all the diaphragms look good with no splits, there are no signs of worn spindles like you used to get on jap bikes, I am certainly puzzled, the carbs are clean, I have blown through all the passages with compressed air and I have visibly checked all removable jets for blockages etc and everything is spotless.

[andybesy]

Have you checked the jets are standard specification?

[unfazed]

Did you blow out the jets in reverse to the way they normally operate?
You say it has only happend since you fitted the manual tensioner, why not refit the standard tensioner and see if the problem goes away
 
 

[solorider]

Did you blow out the jets in reverse to the way they normally operate?
You say it has only happend since you fitted the manual tensioner, why not refit the standard tensioner and see if the problem goes away

the jets were blown in all directions and inspected before being refitted, the problem has been there for a while, I only mentioned the tensioner in that the bike seems smoother since fitting the tensioner.

[unfazed]

When you had the jets out did you reverse blow the remaining orifices and airways on the carbs?
Have you tried rasing the idle to 1500revs and see what effect it has?
 

[solorider]

When you had the jets out did you reverse blow the remaining orifices and airways on the carbs?
Have you tried rasing the idle to 1500revs and see what effect it has?

I went through every orifice I could find, I checked everything. I haven't tried an higher idle speed though.

[Falcon 269]

If the pilot jets are blocked or partially obstructed, blowing through alone won't clear the tiny orifice at the end of the jet.  For that you need to rod it through with a guitar string (top E )

Sounds to me like this is the most likely culprit.  Wear on slides and needle tubes is not usually an issue on the Gen 1.

[Hedgetrimmer]

If the pilot jets are blocked or partially obstructed, blowing through alone won't clear the tiny orifice at the end of the jet.  For that you need to rod it through with a guitar string (top E )

Sounds to me like this is the most likely culprit.  Wear on slides and needle tubes is not usually an issue on the Gen 1.

 
I used to use a custom set of strings, copied from Stevie Ray Vaughan's set up. Top E was an 11! Now use 10 gauge cos they were ripping my fingers up. So what gauge is needed? 

[Falcon 269]

Ernie Ball Super Slinkys for me, Nick, so a 9.  You should be fine with a 10, though