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Messages - Stedman8
1
« on: 21 September 2013, 12:27:52 pm »
Sorry all gone now,spookily I've just got in from posting them  ,cheers Steve
2
« on: 15 September 2013, 02:30:06 pm »
Hi all, I have a couple of bits that I found hanging around in a cupboard looking for a new home. All came from my Fazer fzs 600 (2001) but they will probably fit other models ( please check before buying - I'm not sure what goes on what tbh) I think there is section on this site which states what parts are interchangeable with what model.
New in packet gasket for front sprocket cover - £ 5.00 posted
Complete set of lens covers (orange) and bulbs in excellent condition - £10 posted
Front and rear footpegs (no fixings i.e. bolts washer etc ) minor damage to rubber front left peg - £12.50 posted
Rear light great condition no scrapes or scratches - £15.00 posted
price can be negotiated if more than 1 item wanted
these items are on e-bay as well ( they are more expensive on there ) ,cheers Steve
3
« on: 11 July 2013, 07:12:13 pm »
Hi everyone, Due to an unforeseen incident, from which I am still on crutches, I have a brand new unused full set of coolant hoses + jubilee clips for the fazer fzs 600 ( as purchased along with several others on this site) as they are no longer any use to me  , I will sell them for £115 including postage so grab yourselves a bargain and be part of a very select few. I also have a Haynes manual for the fazer fzs 600 which will be posted for £15 all inc. cheers all Steve
4
« on: 28 June 2013, 08:18:47 pm »
On the advert where I bought it it says for FZS600 fazer 98-03 so if yours is a 99 then It should do but I cant guarantee it Rich,I'm sure someone on here will know for definite so if you post a question in the 600fzs section you will probably get a yes or no,cheers Steve
5
« on: 28 June 2013, 05:18:53 pm »
Due to no longer having the Fzs 600 because of slight miscalculation while out riding, I have for sale the complete set of blue cooling hoses and jubilee clips for said bike which are completely unused, I will accept £115 including postage also brand new and unused gold x-ring chain and sprockets set for the bike which will come with the yamaha upgraded front sprocket price £75 including postage. I have various other bits and pieces including a renntec rack with the aluminium adapters from renntec (minor scratches ) £50 posted anything else I will post on here when I find what is surplus to requirements all funds going to another bike  cheers Steve
6
« on: 25 June 2013, 02:59:55 pm »
Due to unforeseen circumstances (nuff said ) my once pristine fzs 600 is now not so pristine, it is now in the hands of the insurers who are deciding whether its a write off or not  .If they decide its no longer viable I may try and purchase it back off them and break it down and try and get a bit of the money I have spent on it back in my pocket towards a new ride. Has anyone any advice on the best way to do this i.e. sell the thing whole to a breakers yard or adverts on this site or maybe e-bay thanks in advance for any help,Steve p.s. does anyone have any advice on how to get round on crutches its like a nightmare falling over things catching them in the carpet etc,cheers guys Steve
7
« on: 24 May 2013, 10:50:08 am »
What sort of connections are on the new horn - are they just the two spade connectors as on the old horn, what is the problem you are having exactly?
8
« on: 22 May 2013, 10:03:36 pm »
Thanks for the pointers lads, some of the answers from other people and my other thanks seem to have disappeared off the thread,cheers Steve
9
« on: 21 May 2013, 11:33:26 am »
Why is it when I want to find something there seems to be a complete absence of said thing, for eg I am looking for stainless steel M10 fine threaded ( 1.25 ) stud bar. Can I find it? not in this world ,I can have tons of steel M10 fine threaded oh and any amount of stainless M10 1.5 threaded but stainless M10 fine - rocking horse shit on a bed of hens teeth is the best way to describe it, and Im also scouring the web for an ally polisher in the Chester/Birkenhead area, yellow pages and Thompson Directory are no help either, could anyone please help with either of these problems and help to stop an old man having a nervous breakdown, cheers Steve. gibber gibber gibber gibber gibber
10
« on: 15 May 2013, 11:23:12 pm »
pretty sure they're m6x15
11
« on: 11 May 2013, 06:52:00 pm »
Could anyone say what paint code I need for the Fzs fazer 600 ( 2001) which is blue metallic and where to get it - preferably at a reasonable cost i.e. cheap as poss. many thanks ,Steve
12
« on: 10 May 2013, 10:44:05 am »
I did check the wheel alignment ( in a rudimentary fashion - nothing hi-tech ) and that seems ok, as for the rear axle ,everything seems to be in place,its as if there is a spacer missing or too short by a couple of mil, as an experiment I put a 2mil thick stainless steel washer between the disc and the wheel on every bolt and that centres it - although it wont be taken on the road with these on as I'm not sure how safe it would be so please keep the help coming , I surely need it , cheers everyone,Steve p.s. I have taken the caliper apart and totally cleaned it and the pistons etc will be putting it back later so hpefully this will sort out the seizing prob, as for the positioning of the disc  , later,Steve
13
« on: 09 May 2013, 10:02:20 am »
Cheers spamfritter, thanks for those instructions I have new seals,but if the original seals are ok , should I put the new ones in as a matter of course or save them until needed. The way the disc is sitting in the caliper does puzzle me ( which isn't difficult ) I wonder why that is, is there a spacer or similar that is missing ? Anyway stripping and cleaning is the first thing on the list,cheers Steve
14
« on: 09 May 2013, 12:04:03 am »
Hi all, I am having trouble with the rear brake caliper pistons on my fazer once I free them and think its sorted they start binding again - it looks like a dismantle and thorough clean etc- but just a quick question when looking at the caliper from behind the disc appears to sit well to the left of the slot in the caliper - it doesnt touch but is that the position its supposed to be in or should the disc sit in the centre of the slot,cheers Steve
15
« on: 02 May 2013, 10:28:08 am »
Well you will all no doubt be pleased to hear that I managed to sort the pistons out on the rear caliper with shed loads of WD 40 several g-clamps and mucho swearing it is now working as it should and later today the new SBS ceramic pads will be going in, hopefully.So once again thanks for the advice everyone and I'll be in touch soon - the front discs and pads are up for messing with 
16
« on: 30 April 2013, 11:42:00 pm »
Just ordered SBS ceramics for the back once I get the piston sorted, and EBC organics for the front, hopefully these will do the job,has anyone any experience of these and arethey a good choice - by the way many thanks everyone for the advice,Steve
17
« on: 29 April 2013, 10:43:00 pm »
With all the discussions we've had on here about braking, i don't understand why you've chosen such a naff make of pads?
For about £15 more you could have had all round SBS pads that have been thoroughly talked about, will fit properly and have a generally high review!
I dunno what rear disc you have on either, but you've bought sintered pads too, which from personal experience i wouldn't have recommended.
I will always tell anyone to spend a few more quid on pads, as i think it's kind of important to stop the bike when you want it to, rather than when lousy pads decide to kick in!
Sorry to sound a bit harsh but it's just the way i see it.
Dont worry Darrsi it wont be happening again  but we all make mistakes from time to time I hear what you say though,the one thing you shouldn't skimp on is the things that stop you , suffice to say the pads will be changed
18
« on: 29 April 2013, 07:09:31 pm »
Today I tried to change the front and rear brake pads on my 2001 Fazer 600 - what a palaver, the new brake pads ( pyramid parts pp252 front and pp104 rear ) for the front seemed to be the wrong shape i.e. flat on top and curved underneath which is the opposite of the pads that were in it and the pyramid ones didnt seem to fit in the caliper. The rear ones seemed to fit but they were too thick to get the disc in , I tried to push the pistons back but they didnt seem to move much ( looking at the rear caliper without the pads in from the back to front direction, the left hand piston sticks out about an 1/4 inch and the right sticks about 1/2 inch and will not move any further ) I tried taking the reservoir cap off and taking out some fluid but nothing seemed to help, could any one out there please enlighten me,should the rear pistons both stick out to different lengths or should the distance be similar,thanks in advance for any help,steve
19
« on: 19 April 2013, 03:24:51 pm »
I'm thinking of cutting the front fairing down - the bottom half maybe, has anyone done this - pics? And does anyone know the pitfalls and/or disasters that await me How much will it affect the handling etc.I dont want to cut it and then find its flapping around in the breeze - I dont really want to bugger around making new brackets for it and I was going to try and lift the clocks so that they sit a bit higher up - I'll probably have to make a new mount for them but I dont think that would be too difficult - unless someone knows better, any advice appreciated,cheers Steve
20
« on: 18 April 2013, 09:47:04 am »
The dogs danglies mtread - the dogs danglies,
21
« on: 17 April 2013, 10:39:15 pm »
Its the switch that I cut, there maybe a different way of doing it but I think its probably the easiest, the switch needs to slide out a certain length so that you can start in gear with the clutch pulled in so I snipped about 1/8th - 3/16ths of an inch off it ,and it worked on any adjustment setting on the lever ( ! to 6 ) just be careful to leave some or you'll be able to start with the clutch engaged If you kneel in front of the clutch lever pull it in, it will be easy to see the switch slide out against the plate of the clutch lever. I have heard of people who have taken the switch out completely- I know pulling the clutch in should come naturally but on balance Id prefer a fail-safe The amount of times I've been rescued by the side-stand cut-off switch sorry if I'm explaining it as if you dont know what a motorcycle is but I'd rather explain it too much than not enough - the short answer to your question mtread is - yes ,the switch not the plate
22
« on: 17 April 2013, 04:46:22 pm »
Sharp pair of wire cutters then a quick and gentle rub down with wet and dry to smooth it off - a file may be a bit too rough handling for it, I couldn't tell how much stick the switch would take( it appears to be made of a hard plastic ), and remember a bit at a time you can always take more off but you cant put it back on - as my old metal work teacher used to tell me
23
« on: 15 April 2013, 11:02:33 pm »
Check the earth on the coils see if its loose - other than that I'm out of ideas ,let us know what the culprit was ,cheers Steve
24
« on: 14 April 2013, 09:24:54 pm »
Does it start with the choke out?
25
« on: 14 April 2013, 09:22:39 pm »
Dodgy spark plug connections ?
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