Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: keratos on 20 July 2014, 08:39:25 pm
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Sprayed my exhaust pipes on my 500cc scooter this week. Looks well and after curing the paint has gone off well and stuck fast to the pipes. They rust easily and replaced before so this time after replacing I sprayed them. £17 for a large tin of 150oC high temp exhaust paint from local motor factors
Anyone done this with Fazer? I've heard the pipes rot easily; mine have been replaced by the vendor when I bought the bike 2 weeks ago. I'm thinking of removing and spraying also??
If I remove, do I need to replace any gaskets/seals ?
cheers
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If your replacements are aftermarket stainless steel then i wouldnt bother spraying them. Only the original pipes that came on the fazer have the rusting problem. From my experience gaskets dont cost much so its worth replacing.
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If your replacements are aftermarket stainless steel then i wouldnt bother spraying them. Only the original pipes that came on the fazer have the rusting problem. From my experience gaskets dont cost much so its worth replacing.
No, is the plain pipes although this is a new set which is why I considered spraying 150oC high temp black paint.
Are the studs/screws probe to snapping off? They look rusty although the pipes are a-okIf your replacements are aftermarket stainless steel then i wouldnt bother spraying them. Only the original pipes that came on the fazer have the rusting problem. From my experience gaskets dont cost much so its worth replacing.
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you could spray them but tbh they will still end up rusty. Mine get sanded down and resprayed every year they are just a really good breading ground for rust. So if they dont look like they need doing now then i probably wouldnt bother.
studs/screws are prone to snapping as with any bike, but usually a week of spraying something like WD40 on them first will help (mine have never snapped doing this). Also if they wee changed recently then they shouldnt be to bad to get off.
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you could spray them but tbh they will still end up rusty. Mine get sanded down and resprayed every year they are just a really good breading ground for rust. So if they dont look like they need doing now then i probably wouldnt bother.
studs/screws are prone to snapping as with any bike, but usually a week of spraying something like WD40 on them first will help (mine have never snapped doing this). Also if they wee changed recently then they shouldnt be to bad to get off.
ok, thanks for the tips. I guess I shall not bother with the hassle then, I thought by spraying it would help; I perceive it did on my Kymco maxi-scooter exhaust and I've done this every year but it is far simpler and quicker to do this as it is a single cylinder and the bolts are not rusted.
Cheers for the advice.
When they do rot I will go stainless - seen a set of 4-1 on fleabay for £199 from M&P who I have bought quite a bit of kit from over the years and no probs http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-Fazer-98-03-Stainless-Steel-Pattern-Downpipes-Front-Pipe-/261517956815?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3ce3af56cf (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS600-Fazer-98-03-Stainless-Steel-Pattern-Downpipes-Front-Pipe-/261517956815?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3ce3af56cf)
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been taking my old down pipes on and off for the last 10 years and using high temperature paint, until i used granville paint which is applied by brush and works much better in my opinion.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GRANVILLE-CYLINDER-BLACK-HEAT-RESISTANT-SATIN-FINISH-PAINT-100-ML-0246-/271462339720?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item3f346a9488 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GRANVILLE-CYLINDER-BLACK-HEAT-RESISTANT-SATIN-FINISH-PAINT-100-ML-0246-/271462339720?pt=UK_Body_Shop_Supplies_Paint&hash=item3f346a9488)
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How do I know if my paint is plain,satin,gloss or whatever. It's black to me. Shiny black but not overly shiny
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Got my stainless downpipes online from Motad Ebay, £160 delivered. Somehow their non-Ebay site quotes about £250, which confirmed this when I emailed to see if the price was correct. These pipes have the balance pipe thingies like the originals, other aftermarkets don't.
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At that price it isn't worth the effort every year really is it. Mmm. Sounds good.
What are the balance things? What do that do and why? Cheers
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If you look at your current downpipes, you'll see there's a small tube between pipes for cylinders 1+2 and the same for 3+4, those are the balance pipes.
If your current pipes aren't rusty, I see no reason to change them - I didn't. I used a high temp spray a couple of months back, but it's pretty crappy - I suggest the Granville paint that is further up the thread. I'll use that next time, and a tin should last me longer than a can. Although another (superficial) thing to consider is - do you want your bike shiny, or black? (I wanted black)
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they are not rusty, they are new so just wondered what best course of action was , prevention better than cause? mind you , as said, at that price I'm tempted to wait until I need replacement and then go for stainless.
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Which could be 10+ years down the line - they're not an Alfa from the 80's, they don't rot for absolutely no reason. Why not give them a decent paint, and forget about them?
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Hey..I used to drive an alfasud 901 in mint green. With go faster stripes, earth danglers, alloys... Great!
But it grew into a rustbucket :b
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they are not rusty, they are new so just wondered what best course of action was , prevention better than cause? mind you , as said, at that price I'm tempted to wait until I need replacement and then go for stainless.
Then why not put your standards on ebay while they're still fairly new, then once sold order the stainless?
I'm considering using cure rust on the collector box (if that's what it's called) bringing the 4 pipes to one and then painting this. I've been told it's this box which is the actual problem and not the pipes which are apparently stainless anyway.
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I did not know the joins were not stainless; perhaps the cheaper ebay stainless pipes are cheap for that reason??
I was not worrying about the pipes until I read on here that they are subject to rotting frequently. Mine are new when I bought the bike but not treated (or a very thin paint treatment). I have a few large cans of high temp primer and paint around so throught I'd use them. I'm worried about the manifold studs breaking off so will treat every day with WD40 for a week before taking them off. Maybe I can save on a decent set of stainless. If the pipes still rot after my treatment then its only cost a few quid on gaskets and WD40 (6 cans of paint/primer I had hunkering down in the garage anyway).
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perhaps if my belief is correct (others may confirm) and it's only the box underneath the engine that rots, you could spray it in situ. It not exactly a part that is generally seen
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The collector box,sitting horizontally under the engine, is the weakest link. Condensed water (product of combustion) collects here and the outside of the box is subject to road dirt/salt so eventually will corrode through. It is easy to forget this part of the system being mainly out of sight.
Have removed from my bike & wire brushed exterior then a few coats of heat proof paint should prolong its life.
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surprised no one yet has come up with a drain plug for it
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Surely I'm not the only one to have considered pouring some Granville paint into the pipes, swooshing around and draining the excess. This would stop the condensed water sitting in contact with the metal and possibly prolong there life.
Am I the first to suggest this without fear of being disavowed by the forum for a completely ridiculous idea?
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I shall whip the lot off this weekend. (pipes that is - upto the can)
been spraying the header studs all week with WD40
Thanks peops
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they are not rusty, they are new so just wondered what best course of action was , prevention better than cause? mind you , as said, at that price I'm tempted to wait until I need replacement and then go for stainless.
Then why not put your standards on ebay while they're still fairly new, then once sold order the stainless?
I'm considering using cure rust on the collector box (if that's what it's called) bringing the 4 pipes to one and then painting this. I've been told it's this box which is the actual problem and not the pipes which are apparently stainless anyway.
Be careful Midden, if you do this. I did it with rust converter and then granville on it after and the paint fell straight off after 1 ride, reaction with converter. Needless to say I'm redoing mine this weekend in the hurricane!
The collector box and the joins on the balance pipes is where mine rusts.
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Be careful Midden, if you do this. I did it with rust converter and then granville on it after and the paint fell straight off after 1 ride, reaction with converter. Needless to say I'm redoing mine this weekend in the hurricane!
The collector box and the joins on the balance pipes is where mine rusts.
Thanks for the heads up Nick :)
Surely I'm not the only one to have considered pouring some Granville paint into the pipes, swooshing around and draining the excess. This would stop the condensed water sitting in contact with the metal and possibly prolong there life.
Am I the first to suggest this without fear of being disavowed by the forum for a completely ridiculous idea?
It crossed my mind while reading this thread about whether that stuff used to treat inside of petrol tank would work. Or perhaps ACF50.
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It just seemed a good idea as everyone moans that the rust from the inside out on the collector.
When I finally (hopefully many years down the line) replace mine, I'll try painting the inside and let ya'll know.
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I sprayed mine. Looked awesome for about a month and then it was manky again. I can wholeheartedly agree with using a brush on application instead of a spray.
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I painted mine in situ with the belly pan off , two years ago, with granville HT paint , brush on not spray , still looks like new and I live 2 miles from the Sea front , salty roads , bad weather and all that. Defo recommend brush on Granville HT paint or equiv. Just make sure to key the pipes with wire wool - I would not use sandpaper but thats a personal preference.
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My collector box had rusted through a touch, only about the size of a 5p, so i removed the pipes and had a mate weld a small plate over the hole, then dressed it up a bit and cleaned the pipes with a wire brush and a final rub-down with fine emery paper.
Bought a can of High temp paint from B&Q, the stuff used for stoves and used all the can on the pipes, the can was good for three decent coats.
Still looking good after six months use, although i do also have a fender defender jobbie on the front mudguard, so that keeps a lot of crap off the pipes.
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How did you find the header bolts mate? In term of getting them out without stripping or shearing. I used two large cans of wd40 spraying every morning and night over the bolts before attempting removal... Not sure if it was necessary though??
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I generally use spray stove black on exhaust pipes and every now and then, spray them with silicone.
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Sorry for the late reply tweety, to be honest mate, they came off dead easy.....but probably because the cylinder head had been off not long before, to have some work done on it, so they had been copper greased by the guy who did the work.
If i had done them before it went in, i would probably have sprayed them a few times with WD, just to allow for penetration before getting the socket on them.
G ; )
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Sorry for the late reply tweety, to be honest mate, they came off dead easy.....but probably because the cylinder head had been off not long before, to have some work done on it, so they had been copper greased by the guy who did the work.
If i had done them before it went in, i would probably have sprayed them a few times with WD, just to allow for penetration before getting the socket on them.
G ; )
All okay mate. Apologies... I should have reposted that I got them off by spraying with wilko lube £99p per 300ml. Cheap WD40 subs. All okay. Cleaned and sprayed. Cheers