This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
Messages - Jules-C
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 21
51
« on: 30 March 2018, 08:06:03 am »
£52.54 now and says temporarily out of stock do looks like you've missed the bargain
52
« on: 12 March 2018, 10:21:34 pm »
Throttle Position Sensor
53
« on: 06 March 2018, 11:04:32 am »
Hole diameter must be more then 6mm
54
« on: 06 March 2018, 11:03:18 am »
Glue is mainly for sealing there are clips that hold the halves together. Oven doesn't have to be very hot. Think I set oven to 150C but turned it off when I put headlight in and left it there for 10 minutes and no problems separating it
55
« on: 06 March 2018, 10:59:29 am »
It take a while for the carbs to fill completely.
Do not start it, switch on the ignition turn on the kill switch, wait until the pump times out clicking stoops. Switch off ignition switch, switch it on again, do this until it stops clicking, carbs should be full then. Could 5 or 6 ignition on offs.
Then start it.
And do it with bike on centre stand so carbs all fill to proper fuel level
56
« on: 22 February 2018, 11:21:50 am »
On one occasion after doing the mod an MOT inspector asked if the bike was an import because there was a slight kick up to the right in dipped headlight beam but no one else has commented.
57
« on: 22 February 2018, 10:46:59 am »
Could be just a slack chain
Or a tight chain
58
« on: 18 February 2018, 05:15:06 pm »
If it gets quieter when you pull the clutch in nothing serious to worry about. They all do that at the miles mount up.
59
« on: 06 February 2018, 12:03:10 pm »
The sensor is the other possibility! I can test that at the same time as the fan switch. It was very heavy rain Saturday with a lot of spray.
The only symptom over heating was a load of steam when I parked up, the bike was riding fine. Not sure when I will get to work on it, but I will give an update!
Steam from where? Just generally from engine because of last puddle you drove through? With no coolant loss it's not coolant escaping. Dodgy sensor or water getting into connection is sounding quite likely since no other problems found. My temperature warning light has never come on despite many very wet journeys. Is the rubber boot still on the connector on the sensor?
60
« on: 05 February 2018, 03:04:35 pm »
If the coolant levels are still both full you can rule out a leak
The fan should come on before the red light but hardly ever comes on except for idling in traffic on a hot day.
Idling although headers might get hot the engine isn't producing nearly as much heat as it does when it is producing power so it can be confusing.
Brown mixture could be chain lube etc from the front sprocket cover or from anywhere under the bike if it went in garage wet.
The thermostat should start opening somewhere around 85 degrees, if you don't have a thermometer it is too hot to put finger in water but before it is boiling, when it's near boiling the thermostat should be fully open.
There should be no noise from the water pump and hard to tell if it's working but if you run the engine with the radiator cap off you should be able to see the water moving once it has warmed up enough for the thermostat to start opening. As the bike is warming up check how hot the two sides of the radiator are once the engine has warmed up the sides of the cylinder head and the two sides of the radiator should all be much the same temperature. if the cylinder head is getting too hot to hold your hand against but the radiator still cold it's not a good sign.
61
« on: 05 February 2018, 12:29:39 pm »
Sounds like water pump has failed. Either that or the thermostat isn't opening which would be my first check since it's quick and easy to do. Since the levels were ok I wouldn't think it was a leak since even if a quarter of the coolant had leaked it should still circulate and cool the engine in the current temperatures. Did you check if radiator was hot, if the water isn't circulating the bottom left corner of the radiator where the pipe comes out to go to the pump will be cold
62
« on: 03 February 2018, 10:20:11 am »
Rubbing salt in the wound asking you to cancel order if the can't/won't supply the order they should cancel it.
Nothing wrong with the Chinese levers a lot of people here have fitted them with no problems
63
« on: 20 January 2018, 09:41:04 pm »
Yeah air filter before you try anything else
64
« on: 11 January 2018, 09:15:19 am »
Carbon monoxide detector in garage is handy for those I'll just fire the bike up for a second occasions and then keep it running longer than intended.
Exhaust smell can be misleading since higher octane fuels give a funny smell on the Fazer possibly because it will run richer on them since they need more air.
65
« on: 06 January 2018, 11:23:09 pm »
Oops just repeated what Disorderlypunk said.
66
« on: 06 January 2018, 11:21:28 pm »
But you lose the rear reflector which is an MOT fail. So you got to find a way of getting a reflector fitted or have silly little ones that don't really do anything stuck on number plate
67
« on: 06 January 2018, 11:14:14 pm »
Could just be blown brake light filament in one bulb and blown tail light filament in other bulb. Swap them over and see if brake light now works on other side before going any further.
68
« on: 30 December 2017, 08:29:18 pm »
Gives the details in the original post
Got my emulators from ebay. The title says: 41mm Fork Damper Valves TC-88 Softail Touring Dyna FXST FLST FXDWG FLT 2000-UP.
69
« on: 30 December 2017, 03:32:04 pm »
Sorry it looks like it is not happening. Things seemed to be on track and previous moulds for hose kit tracked down with one new mould to be made for the hose from distribution manifold at front of engine to oil cooler. Was waiting to hear mould was made and details of price depending how many people wanted kits were but then never heard anything else for ages. Phoned a few times and he sounded positive and said he would get back to me and checked had my contact details but never heard back from him.
I've given up now, not after some trying especially since I've been without my bike for most of the year because I sent the hoses from my bike and they have never been returned.
Emails used to be replied to within minutes when starting the process but last couple months don't get any reply and phone calls sound good but never hear anything afterwards.
I've ended up buying second hand set of hoses so I can get bike back on the road in the new year, hopefully before MOT runs out in January
70
« on: 30 November 2017, 09:42:38 am »
Stainless steel is a lot cheaper than it used to be and the additional cost these days would be only 1p or 2p a bolt. Additional cost for a new bike would be around £10.
71
« on: 28 November 2017, 12:29:57 pm »
Also check eBay for left hand drill bits the heat from drilling softens the threadlock and the left-handed turn can start to undo the bolt at the same time
72
« on: 16 October 2017, 01:53:17 pm »
What is this "sun" you are talking of?
It's been as black as night all day here but not much sign of any wind so far
73
« on: 12 October 2017, 10:06:10 am »
It's a good Abus lock but a bit small and the calipers stop it going round a wheel spoke and both fork legs like I used to do on last bike. But for a short stop just round a wheel spoke stops bike being pushed/driven away. Longer stops got a wire loop to either go round a solid object or lock on one wheel and loop through other wheel and frame.
74
« on: 11 October 2017, 05:40:43 pm »
But has anybody actually got a U Lock under their seat? 
Yes! Got the lock off eBay for a lot less than Yamaha were selling it for
75
« on: 18 September 2017, 12:51:50 pm »
You can take the original indicators apart and shorten the stem and then rebuild them with a spacer under the nut inside the mudguard. I did that to mine when I fitted non-fango panniers. Only shortened by about 2cm but enough to make a difference
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 21
|
Show Posts
