what did you do with your fazer today ?

[Dave48]

Bought 4L paraffin @ B&Q-last time bought some was 2/6 a gallon (but that was 1965!). Thoroughly cleaned chain and sprockets, relubed & checked adjustment.
Then decided to wash bike followed by a pleasant hour in the sun polishing! Battery fully charged ready to rock & roll tomorrow/weekend

[mr self destruct]

Had a bit of an arse twitcher on the motorway today, dropped a gear to overtake a lorry and my bike just cut out. Dead. During rush hour too.

Managed to coast to the hard shoulder, tried firing it up again and it backfired bigtime before ticking over like nothing happened. Second time it's done that now, if we didn't have a kid on the way I'd be chopping it in for a new FZ1. 

[red98]

Refitted the rear wheel after fitting new bearings last night.....wheel spins real smooth, think I was confusing bearing noise with chain noise  .........should notice the difference on the next ride 

[noggythenog]

Had a bit of an arse twitcher on the motorway today, dropped a gear to overtake a lorry and my bike just cut out. Dead. During rush hour too.

Managed to coast to the hard shoulder, tried firing it up again and it backfired bigtime before ticking over like nothing happened. Second time it's done that now, if we didn't have a kid on the way I'd be chopping it in for a new FZ1. 

Uh oh that's proper arse twitching stuff mate....have you got an alarm immobiliser fitted???

[esetest]

Hi Paul , did you use a bearing puller when you removed the bearings or a screwdriver , planning on doing mine in the  autumn , so was just wondering if I would need a puller

Refitted the rear wheel after fitting new bearings last night.....wheel spins real smooth, think I was confusing bearing noise with chain noise  .........should notice the difference on the next ride 

[Andy FZS]

Went to seaside for an hour came home and spent another hour removing flies and polishing

[unfazed]

Had a bit of an arse twitcher on the motorway today, dropped a gear to overtake a lorry and my bike just cut out. Dead. During rush hour too.

Managed to coast to the hard shoulder, tried firing it up again and it backfired bigtime before ticking over like nothing happened. Second time it's done that now, if we didn't have a kid on the way I'd be chopping it in for a new FZ1. 

Check your electrical connections. It is possible it is corrosion of connectors or a loose connections.

Procedure below does not require and major skills (not saying you don't have any major skills )

Start with the plug caps and work back
Unscrew the plug caps and cut about 10mm off the end and then screw them back in and put the boot back in position.
Lift the tank and take off the coil connection one by one and spray connectors with WD40( don,t spare it) and then put them back on.
As the tank is up open the electrical connections box. Take out each connector in turn pull them apart and treat both plug and socket to liberal doses of WD40.
Put all that back together
Now go the Right hand handlebar switch.
Unscrew the phillips screws and open the switch Spray the kill switch with WD40 operate it on off about 10 times and and spray some more WD40 into it.

The kill switch can be a source of problems if it has not been used for a while.
Now you have cleaned up nearly all the  connectors associated with engine running.

Last bit to do is under the left side panel.

Take off the side panel and pull off the biggest connect block from the starter cut out relay unit.
Spray the both  the plug and the relay connection with WD40.

Put it all back together and restart the bike. Hopefully it starts 

No doubt someone will come back and say this is a waste of time, but believe me from my experience it is a worthwhile exercise.

Let us know how you get on.
You may find some corrosion which needs a little bit of rewiring, but that cane be easily sorted also




 

[red98]

Hi Paul , did you use a bearing puller when you removed the bearings or a screwdriver , planning on doing mine in the  autumn , so was just wondering if I would need a puller

Refitted the rear wheel after fitting new bearings last night.....wheel spins real smooth, think I was confusing bearing noise with chain noise  .........should notice the difference on the next ride 

hi paul..used a good quality drift.two large beearings came out easy, smaller roller bearing put up a bit of a fight, I removed the rollers and plastic holder and carefully split the outer casing....used a socket slightly smaller than then bearing  to knock the new ones in.nice and easy making sure they went in square....2hrs from start to finish, I used an "all balls" kit from wemoto,£40 delivered

[mr self destruct]

Uh oh that's proper arse twitching stuff mate....have you got an alarm immobiliser fitted???

I do, and it's played up a bit since I got the bike. 

Check your electrical connections. It is possible it is corrosion of connectors or a loose connections.

Procedure below does not require and major skills (not saying you don't have any major skills )

Start with the plug caps and work back
Unscrew the plug caps and cut about 10mm off the end and then screw them back in and put the boot back in position.
Lift the tank and take off the coil connection one by one and spray connectors with WD40( don,t spare it) and then put them back on.
As the tank is up open the electrical connections box. Take out each connector in turn pull them apart and treat both plug and socket to liberal doses of WD40.
Put all that back together
Now go the Right hand handlebar switch.
Unscrew the phillips screws and open the switch Spray the kill switch with WD40 operate it on off about 10 times and and spray some more WD40 into it.

The kill switch can be a source of problems if it has not been used for a while.
Now you have cleaned up nearly all the  connectors associated with engine running.

Last bit to do is under the left side panel.

Take off the side panel and pull off the biggest connect block from the starter cut out relay unit.
Spray the both  the plug and the relay connection with WD40.

Put it all back together and restart the bike. Hopefully it starts 

No doubt someone will come back and say this is a waste of time, but believe me from my experience it is a worthwhile exercise.

Let us know how you get on.
You may find some corrosion which needs a little bit of rewiring, but that cane be easily sorted also

Cheers mate I'll give it a go tomorrow, but it'll mean taking the Mondeo to work. 

[unfazed]

What type of alarm/immobiliser is fitted?

[Grahamm]

Had a bit of an arse twitcher on the motorway today, dropped a gear to overtake a lorry and my bike just cut out. Dead. During rush hour too.

I had a couple of incidents like that on my FZ6 a few years back, turned out to be a duff Kill Switch. It was replaced and been fine since.

[MarkWales]

Added Wynns Dry Fuel to the tank - no running issues at the moment

[mr self destruct]

What I did with my Fazer today was take a crash course in riding on gravel on the way into work. All of a sudden my favourite little country road was resurfaced with loads of loose shit and I found myself sliding all over the place! 


I wonder if there's any special technique?

What type of alarm/immobiliser is fitted?

A Meta 357TV2. It kept blowing the fuse a few times in recent weeks, but it turned out whoever installed it didn't upgrade it, so I sorted that.

[Dave48]

Uh oh that's proper arse twitching stuff mate....have you got an alarm immobiliser fitted???

I do, and it's played up a bit since I got the bike. 

Check your electrical connections. It is possible it is corrosion of connectors or a loose connections.

Procedure below does not require and major skills (not saying you don't have any major skills )

Start with the plug caps and work back
Unscrew the plug caps and cut about 10mm off the end and then screw them back in and put the boot back in position.
Lift the tank and take off the coil connection one by one and spray connectors with WD40( don,t spare it) and then put them back on.
As the tank is up open the electrical connections box. Take out each connector in turn pull them apart and treat both plug and socket to liberal doses of WD40.
Put all that back together
Now go the Right hand handlebar switch.
Unscrew the phillips screws and open the switch Spray the kill switch with WD40 operate it on off about 10 times and and spray some more WD40 into it.

The kill switch can be a source of problems if it has not been used for a while.
Now you have cleaned up nearly all the  connectors associated with engine running.

Last bit to do is under the left side panel.

Take off the side panel and pull off the biggest connect block from the starter cut out relay unit.
Spray the both  the plug and the relay connection with WD40.

Put it all back together and restart the bike. Hopefully it starts 

No doubt someone will come back and say this is a waste of time, but believe me from my experience it is a worthwhile exercise.

Let us know how you get on.
You may find some corrosion which needs a little bit of rewiring, but that cane be easily sorted also

Cheers mate I'll give it a go tomorrow, but it'll mean taking the Mondeo to work. 

What type of alarm/immobiliser is fitted?

See your bike is same "vintage" as mine. When I bought bike last June it came with an alarm/immobiliser which had been fitted from new(2003). Previous experience with the system on my thou playing up at 10 years age decided me to have the fitted system removed & replaced with a new Datatool System 4 Red which my local Yam dealer was doing a special price on. Wasnt going to bother fitting another alarm/immob until my insurance company insisted!
Once you have covered all the electrical possibilities including testing things like side stand cut out switch,clutch switch-IF the problem persists then check your fuel system:-breather pipes/fuel pump & filter & if necessary the carbs. My money is on the alarm/immob! Good luck

[mr self destruct]

Cheers mate! It seemed ok this morning, but that's the trouble with intermittent faults. 

[unfazed]

I have a Meta357TV2 fitted and is also 10 years old.
Usually the internal battery goes around now and you get 4 short beeps when switching it on which is the indication of the problem. I am waiting for the beeps before upgrading mine.  Since I fitted my own I can bypass it very quickly without stripping anything so it never bothers me to much.

You problem sounds electrical since it just cut out, and backfired on starting. Fueling issues present themselves slightly differently
Usually if the side stand or the clutch switch give trouble the engine will not turn over on the starter and everything on the bulb check will light up.
About 8 years ago on the way back from France we stopped for lunch about 60 miles from home and a bike that had worked flawlessly for 2 weeks would not switch on when . Everything dead, I lifted the tank and checked the connections in the box and sure enough there was a corrosion issue on the ignition switch connector. A dose of WD40 (always carry a very small can with me) sorted it temporarily until I got home but I had to redo the connector. When I went through all the other connectors there were traces of corrosion on many of them.. I treated them all with WD and did it again last year as a matter of form, but the initial dose of WD40 had kept the corrosion at bay.

Forgot to mention the Fuel pump has a small black connector under the tank near the pump pull it apart and treat that also.

[Rexr]

Had my new rear tyre fitted and put the bike back to stock gearing 

[fazersharp]

put the bike back to stock gearing 

Why so -- what did you have before what did you not like

[bigbluebear]

Cleaned and re-oiled the chain, filled it with petrol, gave a test run to make sure all is ok ready for the NW200 tomorrow

[Rexr]

The owner before me put a 15 tooth front sprocket on and I've put the stock 16 tooth sprocket back on as I do a lot of touring during the summer months and the way the bike was felt like it was reving to high, I've never been one for shorter gearing each to their own I suppose lol

[Anquetil]

Lovely weather, warm and dry. 146 miles, from Wrexham to Betws y Coed, Llanberis, Caernarfon, Bangor, Colwyn Bay, St Asaph, Ruthin , home. Quiet on the roads this morning, but busy with traffic heading up the coast as I came home. Lots of bikers out.

[noggythenog]

Lovely weather, warm and dry. 146 miles, from Wrexham to Betws y Coed, Llanberis, Caernarfon, Bangor, Colwyn Bay, St Asaph, Ruthin , home. Quiet on the roads this morning, but busy with traffic heading up the coast as I came home. Lots of bikers out.

Im desperate to see llanberis on the bike...never even been in the car.........any pics????

[noggythenog]

Little bit spit & polish before i hit Welshy Walesy Roads in the morning.




Adjusted the rearset for the gear lever,  lowered the handlebars a little bit, adjusted the span on the clutch and brake levers.....added some activ8 to the engine oil.....put some kurust stuff around the fuel filler lip under the cap where it was a tad rusty and gave it a thin coat of wd once dry.




Hardly ever get weekends off....never mind dry ones....when i have an FZ1 ready to ride......actually feels a little bit festive

[Hedgetrimmer]

That looks really good Noggy. Have a good one tomorrow, weather should be right for it. I was thinking of loading up the tent again this weekend, but as explained elsewhere, can't really do it now. I managed to get a couple of hours in to clear my thoughts a bit this afternoon though. Over the Lambourn Downs to Wantage, A338 to Hungerford (nice winding stretch with good surface - rare around here!), then a B road route back to Swindon, Highworth, Faringdon and home. Will hopefully get out again on Sunday, no idea where to head though. Maybe the tank museum at Bovington, dunno.

[mickvp]

Rode it to a local spot, the rest and be thankful, then rode it home

Just cleaned the bike, and scrubbed the chain and sprockets before 're-oiling as well:



Nice n windey



Clean bike




Chain and sprocket looking a bit better: