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Messages - Camshaft
26
« on: 27 January 2014, 09:12:49 am »
Changed front sprocket back to stock 16T plus new DID chain 2000kms ago but today when rolling to a stop to park killing the engine noticed louder than normal chain noise.
When I changed over to the new I adjusted chain tension using a vernier calliper for alignment which did not result in exact swing arm notch alignment. I have read before that this is a better method over relying on the factory marked alignment marks.
So today I adjusted chain tension using the swing arm alignment marks as it had been issue free before with regards to front sprocket L side wear.
Is this a known for the Gen 1 Thou I wonder?
ie vernier or swing arm marks for wheel alignment?
27
« on: 27 January 2014, 09:11:47 am »
Changed front sprocket back to stock 16T plus new DID chain 2000kms ago but today when rolling to a stop to park killing the engine noticed louder than normal chain noise.
When I changed over to the new I adjusted chain tension using a vernier calliper for alignment which did not result in exact swing arm notch alignment. I have read before that this is a better method over relying on the factory marked alignment marks.
So today I adjusted chain tension using the swing arm alignment marks as it had been issue free before with regards to front sprocket L side wear.
Is this a known for the Gen 1 Thou I wonder?
ie vernier or swing arm marks for wheel alignment?
28
« on: 25 January 2014, 10:46:16 am »
Monday will be doing a proper run (after checking for cops, locally we have a system  ) and will see how things are. Cheers for all the advice FOC mates
29
« on: 25 January 2014, 10:43:16 am »
Also check your leads, mine had some corrosion in one of them, I went for a stick coil mod and it is like a different bike now, and before I had no idle issues just a low rev range issue and possibly a little down on power.
When changing the plugs all leads looked ok, will check out the ignition system if the other maintenance doesn't pay off
30
« on: 25 January 2014, 10:40:15 am »
Have you ever changed the fuel filter?
New genuine Yamaha fuel filter fitted
31
« on: 25 January 2014, 10:39:23 am »
Is there a cloth or some other obstruction in the air box entrance under the seat?
No, but checked it immediately. Got a couple of things and a rag under the seat could have been that!
32
« on: 25 January 2014, 10:32:45 am »
Six months between maintenance for an air cleaner is being a bit optimistic don't you think? Partial blockage of teh air would give exactly the symptoms you describe and it only takes a few minutes to check.
Just cleaned and re-oild air filter. Was slugged up a bit with oil from the pcv pipe at bottom 1/4 of filter
33
« on: 19 January 2014, 09:48:28 am »
For anyone interested that hasn't done this mod I recommend it. First corner taken you will notice the more direct turn in with the bike lower up front. Got to know the diff better today with a 200km ride through some familiar twisties and am glad for this mod recommended from Devilsyam from memory. A Tuono passed me on some corners and then he couldn't get away from me over a 4km set of corners up and down a hill. No bad for a gen 1 beast not to be shown the door by a late model italian fighter.
34
« on: 19 January 2014, 09:09:19 am »
no, onto it now, cheers
35
« on: 19 January 2014, 06:57:14 am »
My 01 thou seems to be a little down on power 70,000kms on the clock.
My weekend ride usually includes a blast along a straight up to about 220kms accelerating from 3rd at 90kph after making sure all is clear ahead coming out of a long sweeper.
I was only reaching just over 200kph this weekend. When I got home I watched my recording and the tacho from opening her up in 3rd gear was casually raising to approx 11,000 rpm when prior recordings the needle flies straight to the red line. I thought it was a tad down on power the weekend before so put new spark plugs went in and no different.
Riding about town I can't notice a power drop its only when really giving her the beans at higher rpms.
btw has a k&n air filter which was cleaned and re-oiled 6 months ago 10,000kms since so I wouldn't think its could be a cause.
Any suggestions thought would be great!
36
« on: 17 January 2014, 07:33:53 am »
Just raised the forks through the yokes by 11mm to compliment the recent R6 shock upgrade. I had to make a couple of 11mm spacer/bush's to sit the GYT-R bar blocks on as the underside of the bars gave only a 1-2mm gap to top of fork adjusters. I removed the studs and replaced them with zink plated bolts as couldn't find any longer studs from various fastener suppliers. Now tomorrow for a ride to see he she feels 
37
« on: 16 January 2014, 11:23:30 am »
Nice looking machine! keep riding it hail rain shine hot or cold (better have a good visor) twist that throttle and smile 
38
« on: 06 January 2014, 06:48:07 am »
Make sure the gear lever pivot and both rose joints are lubricated. The clutch cable is properly adjusted, the chain is properly adjusted and raise the idle speed to about 1250-1350 rpm. the cable was adjusted properly and idle speed adj not necc but lubing the shifter pivot point and rose joints did the job, now easy and predicatable action for N - like new thanks mate
39
« on: 05 January 2014, 06:31:58 am »
Lately finding neutral takes a little more care with correct shifter pressure from 1st or 2nd.
I switched over to Castrol Power 1 10W40 from semi synth Belray 10W40 well over 1000kms ago but the problem has only reared its head about 3-400kms ago.
Its not causing a problem riding the bike more just a change i've noticed and hopefully not an early indicator of something serious.
If anyones has any clues would be appreciated.
40
« on: 23 December 2013, 10:38:36 am »
Hi,
Previously been on a very old (27yrs+!) XJ600 to do my DAS, and just test rode a FZS 1000 today. The riding position was so comfortable, the power delivery silky smooth and very managable. At very slow speed, it was much better than I expected for a big bike. The only downside was when it came to cornering... It felt like I needed to think hard about each corner, and really work to push the bike through - I wasn't going fast either, legal speeds throughout and sometimes slower than I'd take the corner in my wheezy old estate car. It felt like it wanted to run wide if left unchecked. I also rode an ER-6f, which was the easiest thing ever in turns, but lacked the grace and smoothness of the Fazer.
Does the FZS 1000 have a reputation for being a bit slow or reluctant to turn, or is it just me being a novice and not understanding how get it to turn well? I'm happy to accept criticism! The other question is would a Fazer 600 be noticably different in the corners?
Many thanks!
Loved the thou', but sapped my confidence a bit in the bends.
Yes, the extra weight needs to be compensated for. As You'd probably be aware R6 shock upgrade will be of a big advantage (fitted mine a week ago). More confidence in flicking into corners of any kind. The grunt of the Thou with some experience on it will make you smile. Guess it's what you're looking for - lighter fast ride or muscle with ability done right.
41
« on: 19 December 2013, 08:40:52 am »
Now I want an Ivan's kit even more! Good luck - all non Ivan's modded Fazer thou owners awaiting feedback I'm sure 
42
« on: 17 December 2013, 07:42:56 am »
Another success story with the R6 shock upgrade. Fitted mine today. Its light years ahead of the std shock (mine with heavier spring fitted), and like someone else on this site mentioned the rebound was all or nothing, mine was all and crashing over bumps having to put up with it so she wouldn't wallow around and want to run wide. Bumps are now properly absorbed and the steering is far better. The bike fells lighter to ride, drops into corners more willingly and much more confidence inspiring. I'm not the best at wheelies but tried a couple of small clutch ups in 1st and the bikes front wheel comes up much easier [size=78%] - and not coming up to quickly or not at all, like it was before.[/size]Thanks for the kit Devilsyam, clear photo instructions included made it a straight forward job. [size=0.85em][/size] [size=0.85em][/size]
43
« on: 17 December 2013, 07:11:56 am »
Another success story with the R6 shock upgrade. Fitted mine today. Its light years ahead of the std shock (mine with heavier spring fitted), and like someone else on this site mentioned the rebound was all or nothing, mine was all and crashing over bumps having to put up with it so she wouldn't wallow around and want to run wide. Bumps are now properly absorbed and the steering is far better. The bike fells lighter to ride, drops into corners more willingly and much more confidence inspiring. Sent Monday courier attempted del Friday to OZ but no one home cause didn't expect it that quickly so redirected to work. I'm not the best at wheelies but tried a couple of small clutch ups in 1st and the bikes front wheel comes up much easier [size=78%] - and not coming up to quickly or not at all, like it was before.[/size]Thanks for the kit Devilsyam, clear photo instructions included made it a straight forward job.
44
« on: 11 December 2013, 10:05:07 am »
45
« on: 09 December 2013, 10:48:31 am »
I hired a 2013 with 2000kms on it recently in Thailand, when the reserve light came on the trip meter was automatically set back to zero - they make R1's but treat the FZ8 rider like a pussy! we can all see when a reserve light comes on then we can choose to do a manual reset!!!----- great bike , mine was so softly sprung should have done the preload and other settings to firm her up a bit, awesome brakes though!!!!
To be honest I was expecting a bit more grunt, especially in the mid range, perhaps some power commander or the like would be in need.
From a Gen 1 Thou old heavy beast rider.
46
« on: 09 December 2013, 10:37:15 am »
Esjot is a quality German made brand. Perhaps unlucky this time though whatever the reason, old sprocket came off easily enough by hand ! new one not so co-operative? some bad luck I guess. I would not skimp on cheap aftermarkets, unless like a clutch lever for e.g..
47
« on: 09 December 2013, 09:37:38 am »
yes it was and found it difficult, so tried it without chain and same reluctance to go on, so a bit of persuasion ensued. I'm starting to think the Esjot sprocket may have been a tad tight tolerance wise. Expecting to have to use a gear puller come the day to remove it
48
« on: 09 December 2013, 08:00:38 am »
Great stuff!, thanks luke
49
« on: 08 December 2013, 06:30:27 am »
Just replaced the front sprocket to std 16T from 15 which was worn.
The 16 is a Esjot sprocket and it was difficult to get on the shaft. I had top gently tap it on using a 36mm socket to show enough thread to get the nut on to seat it.
No way was it going to go on by hand even after checking for any burs and using a little wd40.
is this other peoples experience with the gen1?
50
« on: 03 December 2013, 09:46:24 am »
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