Date: 28-03-24  Time: 18:08 pm

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Messages - NJD

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1
FZS600 Fazer / Re: 1999 FZS 600 - Low RPM bog down, ideas?
« on: 03 March 2024, 05:41:28 pm »
Thanks for all the suggestions. I managed to find an old new spark plug cap and crimped the HT write on the problem cylinder and fitted it, sounds a little louder. Obviously will need more testing.


Probably going to order new coils and keep them stored away since I found an old thread on a different forum of me having the same issue on the same side from two years ago, and then again a year later and crimping the wire with new HT leads is all I ever did on that front. Well besides replace the starter relay at some point.


Will definitely be lubricating connectors across the bike when I get the chance, happened recently with my rear brake light too (sticking on due to invisible corrosion, and solved with some jelly) so could easily be effecting something else.


Carbs are probably on the cards at some point, but since it gets regular use and I've had it a few years I'll try and save the pennies unless the problem carries on and it needs doing (shop job to me).


Will update anything else goes wrong or I try things and don't work. Cheers.

2
FZS600 Fazer / 1999 FZS 600 - Low RPM bog down, ideas?
« on: 29 February 2024, 05:12:42 pm »
I use my FZS 600 '99 for commuting daily and recently it developed a problem with a noise coming from the right hand side of the engine. I only notice this sound when the bike is started from cold, and the sound reminds me of a tractor: clattering like. It doesn't happen all the time, and is faint. Comes and goes. Not constant.


I first noticed it/it started happening after I washed the bike with a hose pipe and then used the Bruhl dryer straight after and then started the bike to remove any remaining droplets of water. The engine temp light came on, and the bike sounded rough. The first few rides after that were very bumpy, and the bike ran rough for the first mile or so (juddering, low on power, surging and then perfectly fine after about 3k). I drained some fuel out of the float bowel and it was clear and smelt of petrol, thinking I'd gotten water in the carbs or suchlike. I've not done anything other in that side of things.


A week later the bike starts fine and starts first time, I've changed the spark plugs and that helped but the noise is still there and the bike is still low on power from cold occasionally (not every single time) sounds like it wants to die and sometimes tries to but doesn't and keeps running. Its nowhere near as bad. Seems like an intermittent issue. When it plays up it goes through a phase and then suddenly everything is fine power wise and it runs normal. Always below 3k and in first (not noticed an issue in other gears). Runs fine, reaches 70 mph etc perfectly fine. Goes to the rev limiter. No stutter on throttle input.


Before I ask the shop to take a look what can I do. HT leads, coil pack, air filter?

3
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Strange plastic sounding squeak!
« on: 23 March 2021, 01:49:37 pm »
Based on what you say regarding mileage I get the sense the owner believes its a "minter," but in reality only doing 80 miles per year and leaving it sat for the rest of the year could probably create more problems than its worth. It may look visually good, but with everything having sat for so long on a regular basis how good does it run? If you can't take it for a run, I'd rather take a punt on a cheaper one from a dealer so at least you've got some "protection." Fazer 600's, as you know, are fairly common and easily modifiable. There not a bike I'd want to pick up a headache version of when there's plenty on the market.


Regarding the noise that you mention I wouldn't be overly alarmed. Many people prop their bikes up on the centre stand and convince themselves they've got an issue, but most of the time they don't since that's not how the bike is meant to run. Much in the same way running the bike in first, very gently, on the centre stand is pointless because the chain isn't under load etc (although this may be useful in this case to check what its doing an pinpoint the noise properly making sure NEVER to release the lever all the way, mind).


You'll want to take it for a run and make sure the chain hasn't been over-tightened and the noise isn't coming from inside the front sprocket cover and the bearing damaged (worse case scenario). Check rear wheel bearings also.


Other than that I'd just replace the chain and sprockets from the get go to save the headache. I paid £170 recently for a D.I.D from a dealer, so aim for £200 at most and if he wont budge then leave it alone.


Cracks on the inlet rubbers are about the only other thing I'd look out for (common, but how damaged are they)...


HTH.

4
FZS600 Fazer / Re: brake lever feel
« on: 28 February 2021, 08:40:06 pm »
New braided brake lines will provide a better feel once their fitted and bled properly, but the key in getting a good feel on the lever -- and maintaining that -- is a combination of patience and technique.


Here's how I'd tackle what you'll be doing, and I write this because you're going to need to try a few things to start you off before you can bleed the "conventional" way "ie: attaching a hose with a one way valve, or not, and bleeding the air out a bit at a time until the bubbles are gone and clear fluid flows through."


Before you do anything relating to fitting new lines start by removing the pads and pushing all four pistons in each caliper back into the caliper as far as they'll go. You'll need to remove the M/C cover and soak fluid up with a rag or use a small syringe otherwise it will overflow (pushing the pistons back in pushes the fluid back up the lines and into the M/C). Then you can put the pads and all the little bits back in and attach it to the bike.


From hereon do not press the front brake lever, yet.


Remove the standard lines and install new ones as required. The 3-way set-up may be less desirable, but takes the guessing out of cable routing; but by the same taken two direct lines are easy to "prime."


In either case, and with all the banjo's torque'd up and lines fitted, start by using a small syringe to remove most (but not all) of the old brake fluid from the M/C (make sure you leave some in at the bottom so no air gets into the system (well, more than already is). Then use a small syringe to absorb the new brake fluid from your container. Attach the syringe to a small tube of plastic hose that fits over the bleed nipple. Crack the nipple open and inject fluid through the hose into caliper, and then close the bleed nipple. Do this about four or five times.


Once that's done press the lever continuously, but only push the lever back a small amount. Pushing it all the way to the bar may damage the M/C (general advice). You should get fluid coming up into the M/C and the lever firming up slightly. You'll know you're ready for "conventional" bleeding when all four pistons in each caliper has pushed the pads against each disc. This is a time and patience part, but reverse bleeding will prime the whole system and push air up to the M/C where gravity thinks it belongs.


Once you've reverse bled you can go ahead and bleed as normal. Once you've done both calipers cable tie the lever to the bar for twenty-four hours, or overnight, and that will push the air up into the M/C and keep your lever solid.


As a tip you can also prime the race 2 line set-up by leaving one attached to the caliper and removing the other and hanging it over a jar (ie: its fitted to the M/C and bike and installed as it should be, but keep one on one caliper and remove one from the other). Fill the M/C with fluid and gently press the brake lever continuously until you see brake fluid dripping from the hole in the banjo on the brake line, and once that's done you can re-attach it to the caliper and do the other one.


~


On the whole I'd start with the syringe method, and reverse bleed to get you started. The system will be full of air, and on monoblock calipers there's plenty of space for it to hide. It will save you so much time.


If try and conventially bleed and get a rush of fluid down the caliper, or a short amount of fluid followed by nothing that then ends up back in the caliper, you know you've got a shit load of air in the system. At that point I'd cable tie the lever overnight and then start from the top of my post.


In either case you're going to be filling the entire system with air by replacing the lines. So just make sure you know how time consuming and how much patience is required to bleed a dry monoblock blue-spot system. Its not overly difficult, but as I've said a couple of times by now technique is key.


Make sure you've got plenty of kitchen roll, and those small 5 ml syringes can be gotten from Boots pharmacy (or just about any pharmacy). The same size tube that fits over you bleed nipple will fit onto the end. I wouldn't advise cable tie-ing the hose to the syringe because you're going to need to refill it, so make sure you hold the clear hose full of fluid at the same time (or buy a handful and fill them all and just use them one after the other). It's the force of continuously pushing fluid into the lines that will force the fluid before it into the caliper and push it up the lines.

edit like so:








5
For Sale & Wanted / FZ6 / FZS 600 - various parts for sale
« on: 03 February 2021, 05:42:28 pm »

All parts available from eBay store.


> All items open to offers


(04-09) FZ6:


- rear wheel cush drive rubbers
- rear brake caliper and pads
- rear brake caliper bracket
- rear brake pad retaining shim (small metal one that fits onto bracket)
- rear brake light
- coolant overflow bottle
- battery box
- seat latch
- bar end weights
- main stand spring
- coolant cap
- various rubber heat shields / brackets
- small bolt job-lots (split due to overall weight)


(98-03) FZS 600


- rear brake light housing
- choke cables
- throttle cables
- right pillion footpeg
- rear shock absorber
- CDI ECU Unit
- rear middle fairing cover piece (black)
- thermostat housing (pins on sensor plugs are slightly bent, un-tested)
- Top yoke with ignition barrel (x1 key)
- bottom yoke

6
FZS600 Fazer / Re: is there a sticky on brake pads here ?
« on: 01 February 2021, 10:54:26 pm »
I'd go with EBC all day long.


EBC HH or EBC organic if you want something not so extreme. There is an EBC HH extreme or suchlike on sportsbikeshop but with the blue-spots they'd probably be overkill for on the road use.




7
Once the fronts done the back is less of a hassle, but you wont know how it rides until then.


You can use the C-Spanner in the tool-kit to adjust, as seen here:





The bigger the gap the harder the suspension and the more load it will take, and vice versa the lower you go (less load, less gap because less travel required).


Standing behind the bike and using both hands to push down on the grab rail (with bike on side stand) will give you a good idea of where you are currently in regards to how soft or hard it is, but you need you and your most used load (chains, locks etc if commuting if your most done thing) to get a true setting. Its a try and adjust kind of thing.


edit


owners manual


https://www.manualslib.com/manual/611242/Yamaha-Fazer-Fzs600.html


service manual


https://www.manualslib.com/manual/923683/Yamaha-Fzs600-98.html


there is a download section on this forum for all the manuals if you'd prefer that, worth a look as it has more downloads / info and updated diagrams.

8
For £950 you've got a bargain, to be honest. The rear caliper alone people sell on eBay for £80-120. You could probably revert a lot of it to standard if you ever sell and flog the additional add-ons on eBay and end up making a profit, but that's way down the line.


I wouldn't overthink the front discs. EBC are a good brand. I only mention the rear disc as it looks reminiscent of those cheap eBay wavy discs people sell, but an EBC one is about £80 (and whatever it would cost to balance the wheel afterwards, if shops do that after fitting a disc) so providing it works I wouldn't overly worry for now.


You're probably saying the front discs are poor because the balance of the bike is so out. As above I'd sort out, or get a shop to, your front fork issue and then go from there in regards to what bits you want to do. You'll probably find handling much improved afterwards, but again I really wouldn't ride it like that. Who knows it may even have been lowered to make the handlebars work, so be prepared to revert it to standard at some cost if needed.


Parts list source (eBay has a wide range of second hand parts for not very much updated basically every day):


https://yambits.co.uk/
https://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fzs_600_fazer/98-99
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/
https://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/


Keep updated with project.  :D

9
Putting the bike on the centre stand and using one of these (with the cups placed on the bottom run of black frame, assisted by perhaps some thin strips of square wood if needed) will help you lift the front of the bike, if needed, to complete the work. I've got both a lift like that and the bike but haven't checked if the thread on the cups are long enough to ensure the ramp touches the frame first, and not the exhaust pipes, when raised.


Or a headstand.


Or if you've got some ratchet straps you can tie them to a strong beam in a garage or a tree and keep the bike raised up that way (putting the strap around the handlebars).


~


As an aside, and encase you don't know (forgive me if you do):


> the rear caliper is from a FZS 1000 (the brake caliper bracket will be slightly modified to make it fit)
> You can get a Torsion bar (the black bar attached to brake caliper bracket) from a Yamaha Thunderace (of better quality and wont rust as much), if ever needed
> custom seat
> aftermarket handlebars
> you're missing the R/H cover that goes over the airbox
> Rear disc looks questionable, but front looks to be EBC?
> Might want to look at that ding in the R/H header pipe


Bikes either had an owner that pumped loads of money into it (rear caliper upgrade, ebc discs, mudguard etc) and then one that ruined it, or one that suffered conflicting upgrade choices and has left you with half decent half project.


I only post this bit as it seems like you've just purchased it and are attempting to figure it out. Parts of it are definitely not standard but fairly easy to work on.

10
General / Re: Winter & pandemic non usage:
« on: 14 January 2021, 11:15:31 pm »
Interesting to get a different perspective.


Oil in fuel tanks? I assume you mean like some sort of additive. I'd never think of needing to do any more than fill it to the top to prevent condensation, but then again I'd probably sell before storing for what I'd consider long term.

11
General / Re: winter and pandemic non usage
« on: 13 January 2021, 10:24:46 pm »
From what I understand the current lockdown does not have an end date simply because the hopes of "Boris & Co" are that they can strike a reasonable balance between the numbers vaccinated and those not before mixing of any kind will begin again; and even then I think they'll opt for a slowly progressive release like they did from the first lockdown last year. So, in short, if you're waiting for a period in time like the one we experienced between the first lockdown in March and the second in November where for periods of the summer it was relatively "safe" and not frowned upon to partake in activities such as biking to other areas, or visiting restaurants to use the "eat out to help out" scheme then I wouldn't be holding my breath for very long.


I wouldn't say its illegal to ride in the current times, but not overly smart to go too far from home. Riding a motorbike is perhaps one of the few things you can do in the current climate with very little exposure to covid, but then you could say that if you get a puncture and have to get recovered home that sitting in a van with someone you don't know for 10, 20, 30 mins is potential unnecessary exposure (keeping in mind there's always a delay between catching and showing symptoms for covid, but of course with current testing times that is way faster than last year).


If I wasn't using mine for work I'd guestimate that for at least one day of a week I'd venture out for a 20-30 minuate round trip to keep some form of mental normality.


Ultimately you have to remember that there are people out there going shops in large groups, collecting items they really could do without from Argos; way more shops open this time round, and plenty of traffic on the road. So, in summary, riding a motorbike for a short period locally is not the worst thing you could be doing at the moment so long as you come back in one piece and stay well away from everyone else.


~


On the other hand you have three bikes, and hopefully a garage (?). For me I'd be over the moon at that prospect, and ripping them apart one by one to clean and service within an inch of their life simply for something to do.


In terms of what to do to keep bike in a rideable state after being stored for a period of time:


> Put them onto the centre stand, and raise the front with a headstand or suchlike (keeping weight of the bike off one area of the tyre)
> Fill fuel tank as much as possible
> Disconnect battery terminals (I've had a battery sitting on a shelf for several months now from an old bike that I use as a spare / item tester and it still reads 12 v and works fine and has never been charged)


Beyond that, and providing the bike didn't need any work, then not a lot. I'd have to make sure they were thoroughly cleaned to prevent any corrosion, mind.


I'd use this time to tackle some of the bigger jobs like suspension rebuilds, coolant changes, swingarm lubrication, headstock lubrication, oil changes, brake rebuilds etc as there literally couldn't be a better time for it.


I hate when I can't use my bike for a short period for whatever reason so can share the frustration, but providing you put it away in good running order and don't leave it for an overly long period of time then there shouldn't be a huge amount to do when it comes to taking it back out on the road again.


12
FZS600 Fazer / Re: clutch lever span adjusters?
« on: 13 January 2021, 12:40:35 am »
Bit late to the party.


I swapped out the O.E.M clutch lever not long after I got the bike for a "Synto Evo" adjustable lever that I got from eBay (second hand) and personally I find it an improvement. Adjustment position is closer to the bar by a fraction (5 / 6 -- 6 being furthest out / O.E.M) but that's all I needed. I've never had any problems with clutch adjustment.


Try and stay away from the generic poorly made eBay stuff, but at the same time it can be a great platform for getting parts at a bargain price. HTH.


edit: or PM FILZ6 above for a price on his set. Think you'd be safe in the knowledge that another biker wouldn't sell you tat for such an important part, and saves taking a chance online. :thumbup








13
FZS600 Fazer / Re: 99 FZS 600 - Left hand switchgear wobble
« on: 08 September 2020, 11:03:47 pm »
The bars look to be standard comparing photo's I have of my bike and Fowlers parts diagram.


Suspect it may be a worn or damaged locating pin. Just found a photo in the service manual of how to install (so I get an idea of what this one looks like inside before removing -- ie no parts that will pop out at me) so will remove screws and inspect, and maybe try the tape, tomorrow.


Thanks for the advice.

14
FZS600 Fazer / 99 FZS 600 - Left hand switchgear wobble
« on: 08 September 2020, 09:48:52 pm »
Hi,


So I've not had the FZS 600 all that long but I've noticed a wobble on the L/H switchgear that means it can be rotated backwards and forwards to the point that putting the choke on single handily means it can, but not always, move (in as much as I now subconsciously hold the switchgear a little when moving the lever -- not a big deal, just an example).


It doesn't move a whole bunch during a ride, so isn't a big issue, but is this common?


I've replaced the two screws (as the heads on the ones I had were worn) and there as tight as they go and so there's no issue on that front. Usually there's a locating pin that goes into the bars on most bikes, but I've not looked / split the switchgear just so I don't end up looking for any springs that may pop out etc.  :lol


So.. does yours move, or is the pin in mine probably not located properly or broken (I realise I'll have to look, if suggested)?


Figured I'd ask,
Thanks.

15
Food for thought, thank-you both.


I'll see how far into winter I can get with the simple wire / dual headlight modification on whatever bulbs are currently in there and adjust accordingly depending on budget available at the time.


Appreciate the help.

16
The best way is to fit up rated bulbs something like Phillps extreme or race


I do get the feeling that a headlight bulb change wouldn't be a bad thing, but due to funds will have to wait for the moment.


I've read reviews on both the phillips extreme and orsam nightbreakers but each contain mentions of shorter than standard bulb life span. Would replacing the low beam bulb with either a phillips bulb, or orsam, and disconnecting the high beam (meaning it would run on one orsam or phillips bulb on low beam) be enough for better vision in the dark? I don't have a problem with the high beam power, just how much of the road you can't see with the headlights running the way they were designed on low beam -- hence why I wired the high beam bulb to power on with low beam in the first place.


I've heard halfords bulbs are crap in the past, but has anyone tried these?: [size=78%]https://www.halfords.com/motorcycling/bulbs/halfords-bike-it-motorcycle-bulb-hmb472sbb-h4-12v-60%2F55w-917815.html[/size]


I wouldn't really advance beyond a bulb upgrade to the above mentioned ones (phillips, orsam or Halfords) at this point because funds.

17
I've just purchased what was advertised as a Yamaha Fazer 400 headlight unit as I'm aware they can be modified to fit the 600 (which I own) and have better lenses than the 600.
Is it the headlight unit you need help with or the bulb type..?


Sorry for the delay in responding to all the above. I realised the inactivity on this part of the forum after posting and didn't think anyone would respond.


Neither, now; to answer the above question.


I realised shortly after purchase that the unit that the seller had advertised was a Fazer 600 MK1 box-eye unit (so the same as the one I have currently fitted). I canceled the order and informed them (not expecting someone to know if all they've done is removed it from zed bike, or split it from a job-lot) and they decided to re-list with the exact same title despite it being for a FZS 600. Sure it will fit a Fazer 400 but there's a difference between the two units (as we know).


For now I'm running with both headlights wired in via a simple wire I got pre-made from eBay, but had read that the Fazer 400 O.E.M headlight unit (that I've since obtained pictures of) offered better reflectors and spread (but are super rare).


I'll see how far into winter I get before the headlights bother me.  :rolleyes

18
Hi,


I've just purchased what was advertised as a Yamaha Fazer 400 headlight unit as I'm aware they can be modified to fit the 600 (which I own) and have better lenses than the 600.


I can't help but feel, however, that what I've actually purchased is a 600 unit that was removed from a 400 (seller probably unaware).


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-FZS400-FZS-400-Fazer-4YR-Front-Headlight-Head-Light-Lamp-Unit/333699699610?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649




If anyone can compare, or look at listing photo's (that are still live), and let me know


Thanks

19
FZS600 Fazer / Re: 'LEDGear' gear indicator
« on: 23 August 2020, 12:13:16 am »
Forgive my simple thoughts but surely if your stationary then your either in N (little green light) or 1st (No little green light)? 🤔😜


Might mean that it works off some sort of drive (ie: constantly on the move for display to be shown) and therefore you can't tell if you've stopped in 2nd etc, but agree with your comment.  :)

20
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Need tyres - Recommended ones from you guys?
« on: 17 August 2020, 11:50:16 pm »
Pretty well stocked up with everything on here at reasonable prices too:


https://www.tyreleader.co.uk/motorbike-tyres/


Think its the rear 160/60 ZR17 69w that's hard to get for the PR3's, none on that site either.


Always look at openeo in past, will save link.


Thanks.

21
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Need tyres - Recommended ones from you guys?
« on: 16 August 2020, 06:58:02 pm »
I owned a ZR7S and had Pilot Road 3's on them and never looked back. The only crime is that their seems a limited amount of stock available in the most popular sizes thus forcing people into buying the more expensive Road 4's / 5's. The 3's are a very good tyre if you can find a set, but I had no issues with the 4's I ran on a CBF 1000.


Expensive, but worth it when it comes to finding yourself in the worse of weather... for a commuter at least.


Not long got my fazer but I'll be looking to switch to Pilot Road's the closer winter gets.

23
For Sale & Wanted / For Sale - (98-03 / MK1) FZS 600 Various Parts
« on: 06 August 2020, 07:44:49 pm »
Hi,

Few small bits for sale via my eBay store:


MK1 (98-03) Fazer 600:

1) L/H Engine crash bar (£40 + £10 P&P)
2) Clutch lever, clutch lever bracket and adjuster (£15 + £3.30 P&P)
3) Rear brake pedal spring (£15 + £3.30 P&P)
4) Rear indicators (£15 + £3.30 P&P)
5) Rear engine mounting bracket (£25 + £3.30 P&P)
6) Fuel tank mounting rubber (£5 + £3.30 P&P)
7) Fuel tank / frame rubbers (£12.50 + £3.30 P&P)
8] Incomplete throttle cables (£5 + £3.30 P&P)
9) L/H Switchgear screws (£0.99 + £3.30 P&P)


Believe removed from fox-eye fazer 600 & might work on box-eye:

1) Right hand mirror (£25 + £3.30 P&P)



~

Postage can be combined.

More parts will be available soon, so ask away if needed.


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