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Messages - unfazed
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4326
« on: 01 March 2014, 11:29:56 am »
I have 3 in total 3/8 drive Norbar with a range of 1Nm to 20Nm 3/8 drive Norbar with a range of 8Nm to 50nm 1/2 drive Draper with a range of 30 to 150Nm These 3 cover everything I need to do on any bike and almost everything I need to do on the car.
A few important details when using a Torque Wrench: Don't throw them around like people do with spanners. Don't using them for opening bolts or nuts Do wind them back to the stop point when finished using them. (This prevents excessive wear in the spring which causes the wrench to lose its calibration).
4327
« on: 26 February 2014, 04:43:00 pm »
It has a nonstandard fairing
4328
« on: 23 February 2014, 12:21:15 am »
Or two
4329
« on: 22 February 2014, 07:22:10 pm »
What is the make of the alarm?
4330
« on: 22 February 2014, 03:39:30 pm »
How old is she, I started taking my own kids out for long runs once they could reach the foot pegs. The biggest problem I had was with my youngest When I took him out, he kept trying to stand up to see what speed I was doing They were great pillion riders and I would nearly forget they were behind me
4331
« on: 22 February 2014, 12:59:19 pm »
Yep I still duck when a pidgeon flys across the road when Im in my car
Glad to see I am not the only one
4332
« on: 22 February 2014, 12:16:59 am »
4333
« on: 21 February 2014, 11:55:16 pm »
I know nothing, except that every bike i've had has had issues with alarms. Sooner or later. I hate them with an undisguised vengeance Mickey P.S. But i hate the toe rags that force you to have alarms more.
I can appreciate the sentiment Having fitted and fixed a number of different alarms over the years , I would say that 90% of alarm problems are down to being fitted/wired incorrectly. I have had to rewire and remove many due to this and many were supposed to have been fitted by "trained fitters".
4334
« on: 21 February 2014, 08:51:53 pm »
I agree with Paul and Andy, it is most likely electrical, however the fact it turns over rules out the kill switch, side stand switch and clutch switch. Any fault with these would prevent the starter cut relays operating and the starter solenoid would not operate and it would not turn over. This leaves the Plug Caps, Coils, Pickup, ECU or Alarm.
I have sent you a PM on how to bypass the Datatool System 3 Alarm you have just to rule it out of the equation. It is definitely a Datatool System 3 you have??? With Ignition off Check the pick up first as it is the easiest to check. There is only one pick up coil and should have a resistance between 250 and 370 ohms. Check the connector block (both sides of it) for corrosion scrape any off and give it a good spray of WD40 to keep corrosion at bay. Next easy one to check is the coil connectors. Under the tank pull off the red/black lead on the coils which supply the 12v power from the Ignition fuse via the kill switch to coils. Check for corrosion scrape off any, spray with WD40 and reconnect. Do the same with the Orange and Grey connectors. Now the pain in the arse bit, unscrew the plug caps and cut a 1/2 inch off the end of the leads and spray with WD40 and screw them back together. (Mentioned in a previous post in this thread). If it still does not start after this let us know.
4335
« on: 20 February 2014, 05:20:01 pm »
Wait, what's wrong with the existing head? Do the valves just need grinding?
A picture would tell a thousand words
4337
« on: 18 February 2014, 11:30:58 pm »
As far as I know it is the same rotor as the 2004 to 2008 R1s and there are a few horror stories with regards their rotor magnets detaching. Have not heard of it on the Gen 2 Maybe an email to Yamaha UK might be in order.
4338
« on: 18 February 2014, 09:16:50 pm »
Not running the chap down and I have to admire his enthusiasm, but the costs of he is proposing are astronomical for someone who says he has no money. I believe projects are great if you the time access to money and have a bike to enjoy riding while building the project. I have seen so many projects left because the enthusiasm wears off or the funds are not there to fulfil the dream. Best of luck
4340
« on: 18 February 2014, 08:13:08 am »
There is a fairing in there, buried under stuff!
Compression is low in cylinders 2 & 3 , but the bores are OK. New piston rings called for, methinks!
Yep, stainless system, and a Venom (I think?) can - soon to be flogged!!
Maybe valves
4341
« on: 11 February 2014, 08:55:39 pm »
4342
« on: 05 February 2014, 12:02:11 am »
Are you using EBC or OEM discs?
OEM's
Then it is most likely the pads, I have found the latest EBC HH pads have absolutel no feel until warmed up. I always used EBC HH until recently. SBS or Ferodo equivallent definitely have better feel. I am not a great lover of the organic ones as I find them to soft and require a harder pull to have the same effect as the HH types. I am presuming the brake fluid is fresh Dot 4 and has been bled fully.
4343
« on: 03 February 2014, 11:19:37 am »
Are you using EBC or OEM discs?
4345
« on: 01 February 2014, 08:40:41 pm »
Always reckon a true biker will ride any bike any distance regardless of size. A few years ago when I bought my 225cc Serow in Barnstaple North Devon, I rode it the 350 miles back to Cork. I was on the back of my friends Gs12000 as far as Bristol on the way to Barnstaple and rode my other friends VFR 800 from Bristol to Barnstaple when he rode pillon on the GS1200 (he was not used to long journeys). I was the first back to the ferryport in Pembroke for the 2:45am ferry, they got lost when they took a wrong turn off the M4 When I am riding long journeys I count down the towns I'm passing by or through rather than thinking of the overall milage, it make the journey feel shorter. My trip back from Barnstaple to Pembroke on the serow was about 12 towns/cities which were around 20 miles apart. I was picking off around 20 miles at a time, which did not feel as bad as counting down from 220miles.
4346
« on: 30 January 2014, 12:59:20 am »
Under the left hand fairing infill.
4347
« on: 27 January 2014, 08:47:51 pm »
If only Brembo made front discs for the Fazer May just be the bedding in process. My front EBC discs made some weird noises for the first 100 miles, still make weird noises, but not as bad as the first 100 miles. The rear Brembo is as good if not better than the original and no weird noises Did you fit the discs yourself and was the wheel surface where the disc is attached cleand off because if it was not the discs may not be on straight.
4348
« on: 27 January 2014, 08:36:50 pm »
you only need the olwers that I have got because they stick out far enough to protect the engine
I like to have the rad protected also. You can ride with bent leaking forks, (speaking from experience) but not with a bent leaking rad
4350
« on: 27 January 2014, 08:26:16 pm »
A 205 GTi I reckon would be great fun (120 hp)
Nearly as good as the RWD Twin Cam Corolla for loosing the back, except that lifting off the throttle in the Corolla meant it straightened up.
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