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Messages - jul1us
1
« on: 20 October 2023, 05:25:23 pm »
I want to express my gratitude again to Mike and everybody here who helped me Ivanising my Fazer. Just had a vacation in Sardinia and had a wonderful time with my Fazer! 
2
« on: 26 August 2023, 01:19:08 pm »
Does it make a big difference when installing?
3
« on: 25 August 2023, 07:13:31 pm »
Oh, yes, it was a big relief. The moment I found that lose connection I was hoping I struck gold but also fearing that it might not be it. Then when I did the test drive full relief set in. Overall, this really happened at the best time as I had the time to take care of it and also learned a lot about the bike's electrics during this time. Thanks again for all the great support you have been giving me since the beginning of this thread, it has been a real life saver! As announced here, I just posted the translated guide for the "power tweak": https://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=27821.msg332584#new
4
« on: 25 August 2023, 06:56:29 pm »
As announced in the Ivan thread, I'm bringing this method called "Power Tweak" here from the German Fazer forum in case anyone here has use for it. The goal is to strengthen the headlight and relieve the ignition switch. Not sure if this has been done here before. Background by Christian (Schlumpf):"From the outset, it has surprised me why the Fazer despite double headlights only a relatively modest, average light emitted. Over time, it turned out that the wiring is not the greatest and swallows a lot of "precious" voltage. I finally looked into the matter and found a workable solution. With one or two additional cables, depending on the requirement, the Fazer electrics can be helped on the jumps. I have described the conversion on my website. The "standard" voltage loss at the headlight of about 2.8 volts can be reduced to about 0.6 volts." Christians (Schlumpf) method can be found here:https://cvieth-bplaced-net.translate.goog/motorrad_licht.html?_x_tr_sch=http&_x_tr_sl=de&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=enThe German forum then found two simpler methods. "There are 3 variants to improve the light, in all of them the effect occurs that the light becomes better and the ignition lock is relieved from the load current of the light. - Schlumpf variant ("new" load current line for the light)
- "Power Tweak" a la Chris (ignition lock switches an extra relay, which in turn switches the load current for light, fan, horn, etc.)
- Plus wire from battery (or pre-fuse) to fuse for headlights (I think Chris mentioned this once).
Conclusion regarding the ratio of effort to benefit:Variant 3 is the least time-consuming and has almost the same effect as variant 1. Power Tweak is in my opinion the best solution, since only slightly more effort is required than with variant 3 and the ignition lock is relieved the most." So here is the translated guide by fzmoe for variant 3 "power tweak" with a schematic at the bottom:"The idea came from Chris on the Fazer forum, you can read the idea behind it there. Parts list:- 1x relay 30A (changeover contact)
- 1x relay socket
- 4x flat connector sleeves 6,35mm cable min. 4 mm2 or 2x2,5mm2 cable 1,5mm2
Remark:Since approx. 19 amps could flow at maximum load with this circuit, a cable cross-section of at least 4mm2 is required for the switching circuit. Instead of the 4mm2 cable, you can also use two 2.5mm2 cables connected in parallel, these are more common and almost every screwdriver has them lying around somewhere. The blue/brown cable to be modified on the Fazer from the ignition lock to the fuse box is also a parallel cable. Relay pinout:- 85 - output control current
- 86 - input control current
- 30 - working current battery +
- 87 - working current output to consumer 87a - is not assigned
Steps:- Disconnect battery.
- Remove the fuse box from the holder.
- Remove the 4 fuses (1xlight, 1xfan, 1xignition and 1xhorn, brake light, etc.) from the box and press out the terminals where the blue/brown cable is attached from the top (press in 2 small black plastic noses per terminal).
- Remove the blue/brown cables from the terminals and solder new cables with 2.5mm2 to the terminals instead and press the terminals back into the box. Length of the cables should be about 10- 15cm, depending on where you want the relay to sit later.
- Insulate one of the blue/brown cables. The other one goes to pin 86 of the relay.
- the two new soldered cables from point 4 now both come to pin 87 of the relay.
- battery +: Now we remove the pins with the 2 thick red wires on the main fuse right next to the battery (see Smurf's improvement of the light). Here we solder another cable to each (2.5mm2). The pins are plugged in again. These two newly soldered cables are now led to the relay and both come there together to pin 30.
- connect a wire from pin 85 of the relay to battery minus (ground). I went here to the ground contact, which is usually on the battery. Simply pull out the pin and solder the cable to it, here a 1,5mm2 is sufficient, because less current flows here.
- insert fuse box.
- connect the battery.
Here is the schematic with the modifications:https://i.imgur.com/MHH3wWP.jpgCleaned up post and linked in ' Gen1/2 Fazer 1000: Common maintenance & tasks' thread. - bkd
5
« on: 22 August 2023, 02:48:55 pm »
Good Afternoon, Mike!  I'm a little embarrassed because it's so simple, but I found the problem. I was about to implement Christians advise about checking the the currents going into ignition coil, when I noticed that the one connector was so loose that it was wiggling around completely free. After tightening it up, I took it for a long test drive and all was well again. https://i.imgur.com/hGVxnLr.pnghttps://i.imgur.com/ELBTJJg.jpgThank you again, and also the others, so much your help. It is really appreciated and I'm happy I learned a lot. If you're not driving the Fazer or the R1 anymore, are you driving something else? In addition to Christians electrical page, there is a guide in the German forum: "Power Tweak or Relay for Ignition Switch Relief" which I can post in another thread here later on...
6
« on: 22 August 2023, 01:32:52 am »
Thanks, Mike! I'm actually learning a lot and do enjoy a bit of tinkering so it's not all bad. I'm also improving my bike as I will definitely replace the rectifier plug. Anderson Powerplugs are already ordered. I will take a video of removing my plug caps tomorrow. Is this how I check earth: "Put the multimeter in your lowest Ohm setting and put the black probe on the negative battery terminal. Then probe around on all the lights negative wires whilst giving them a wiggle. You should be getting very low readings." ____________________ Thanks, Gaz66! I did fully charge my Lithium battery with a lithium capable charger before first time using it. Schlumpf (the creator of the multigauge) actually recommends the usage of a lithium battery for the fazer as it starts the bike much easier (and weighs less). These lithium batteries have a built in controller which manages the 14V charging current. Quote by Schlumpf: "I've been running a LiFePO battery for many years now. They seem to cope better with the tendency of low voltages of the Fazer." His website is quite interesting, you can read it google translated here: https://cvieth-bplaced-net.translate.goog/motorrad.html?_x_tr_sch=http&_x_tr_sl=de&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=enIf you go on the drop down menus on left side to motorcycle -> FZS 1000 you can see the sub categories. Here is his electrical optimisations page : https://cvieth-bplaced-net.translate.goog/motorrad_licht.html?_x_tr_sch=http&_x_tr_sl=de&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en
7
« on: 22 August 2023, 12:52:28 am »
Thanks, Mike! I'm actually learning a lot and do enjoy a bit of tinkering so it's not all bad. I'm also improving my bike as I will definitely replace the rectifier plug. Anderson Powerplugs are already ordered. I will take a video of removing my plug caps tomorrow. How do I check the earth connections, is there a thread on this already? Thanks, Gaz66! I did fully charge my Lithium battery with a lithium capable charger before first time using it. Schlumpf (the creator of the multigauge) actually recommends the usage of a lithium battery for the fazer as it starts the bike much easier (and weighs less). These lithium batteries have a built in controller which manages the 14V charging current. Quote by Schlumpf: "I've been running a LiFePO battery for many years now. They seem to cope better with the tendency of low voltages of the Fazer." His website is quite interesting, you can read it google translated here: https://cvieth-bplaced-net.translate.goog/motorrad.html?_x_tr_sch=http&_x_tr_sl=de&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=enIf you go on the drop down menus on left side to motorcycle -> FZS 1000 you can see the sub categories.
8
« on: 21 August 2023, 10:26:28 pm »
Update: What I had completely forgotten: I have a lithium battery with charge indicator, and it was all the way down this morning, whereupon I charged the battery for half an hour (not longer, because I wanted to test then).
After that, the Fazer ran better for about 25 minutes and then got worse again (as described above).
Now I just went down and measured the battery with the bike turned off: 13.48 volts and when I start the engine it is only 13.51 volts. Does that mean the rectifier or the stator are gone and would that also explain the engine problems?
Tomorrow I will repeat the test and rev up the engine which I wasn't able to now because of my neighbors.
Thanks, unfazed! These are great tips! Do you think that 11.6 kohm is too much for a plug cap? (One is at 11.6, the rest at 9.6)
I don't think the spark plugs can be fake as I bought them over the counter at Germanys most reputable motorcycle dealer (Louis).
9
« on: 21 August 2023, 07:31:35 pm »
So, I took it for a test drive. The first 15 to 20 minutes it was almost perfect, only three or four misfires in total, hardly noticeable.
After that it deteriorated rapidly and now I'm back to square one.
I'm now wondering if it's actually the spark plug cap or what else it could be.
Edit: This is what someone in the German forum wrote to my initial question:
"This sounds like voltage problems with the ignition system. The exup fault could be a side effect. An exup fault will not cause the engine to stop.
I would start by investigating if the 12V is coming clean to the ignition. A simple bulb on the 12V supply side of the ignition coils may give some initial clues.
Second important thing is the starter relay and all its little switches. This can also block the ignition. To rule that out you can temporarily replace the relay with wire jumpers.
What I have also seen are cracked plastic housings of the ignition coils. There the spark jumps directly to ground. But this can only be seen in total darkness."
10
« on: 21 August 2023, 04:06:32 pm »
Haha, it seems I rejoiced to soon. So now, it was mostly running perfect but there was a slight bit of stuttering a couple of times which seems to indicate that I fixed it but not 100%. Is it perhaps possible that the spark plug caps are somehow corroded or not 100% okay? Also, in my case the plug don't screw off from the ignition lead but can just be pulled off. The day it went bad was a really hot day and I was keeping the revs really high so I am thinking it was caused by heat? Also, this is a picture of the rectifier plug: https://i.imgur.com/He0hafK.jpgWould it be visible if there were something wrong with it? Edit: I just measured the resistance of the spark plug caps. All but the cap of cylinder 3 had around 9.6 kOhms, the cap of cylinder 3 had 11.6 kOhms. Could this be the reason? Will take it for another test drive now...
11
« on: 21 August 2023, 02:19:59 pm »
Good news my beloved FZS is back on track!
Thank you so much for your help, Mike! I really appreciate it.
I had first shortened the ignition lead but that didn’t fix it.
After that I did a couple of things, so it’s hard to say what it was.
What I did:
- I put contact spray on the ignition leads.
- I removed the spark plugs and tested them with a volt meter.
- Some of the spark plug gaps were slightly big so I adjusted the gaps.
- The rectifier plug seemed fine but I cleaned with contact spray and a brass brush.
So, I really don’t know what it was but happy, it’s running again!
12
« on: 20 August 2023, 04:16:41 pm »
Thank you so much for this thorough reply which gives me a direction forward.
Just to be clear (as I have never done this before, I'm quite okay at following instructions -> installing Ivan, checking valves but I lack experience) when I pull the individual spark plugs, I then just let it run or take it for a test ride? If I just let it run, how will I know if I have found the culprit?
13
« on: 20 August 2023, 01:30:56 pm »
Update:Just took it for a ride and it has become much worse. Power was fluctuating even at constant rpms and it went off a couple of times at red lights. The engine also ran rougher than usual. Standing at idle, it sometimes sounds fine and sometimes not.I made two videos, a short one with bike running when it’s parked and one with the phone camera in my pocket during a ride so there is just audio.Here is the one with the bike parked:https://youtu.be/Vz4nr0bHKRI?feature=sharedAnd here is the ride (at 30 seconds is the first red light where it goes off a few times). Engine was already a little warm during this ride as I had already gone for a few miles:https://youtu.be/1lC3a4UeJ2E
When I was stopped at the red light (at second 30 of the video) I also got the exup error (7000) two or three times but it was just for a second. Could all of this just be an exup problem?
14
« on: 19 August 2023, 11:32:47 pm »
Little update: So far the bike has been running like a dream. It's so much fun and power is just always there! That is until today. Today, I took out the bike for an afternoon of bliss out of town. I gave it everything on the b-roads and the bike was just so sweet and smooth. Power delivery was perfect and I was feeling very appreciative.
After coming back home, it was parked for about three hours until I took it out in the evening for some errands around town. This is when I noticed some stuttering when accelerating, especially when hard accelerating. Something that has never happened before. I think it was especially around 2000 - 3000 and 5000 - 6000. Power was still there and it was fine when going steady or accelerating very smoothly. It revs up fine when I'm in neutral, just stutters under load. It feels like the engine is not getting enough gas.
It's so weird because it was just running so perfectly al the way until I was home, a few hours earlier. It would have made more sense to me, if it happened during the ride and not after.
Carbs are clean (Ivan was just installed a few month ago) and synched, spark plugs are fresh. Exup was serviced. I have only used V-Power fuel so far, so I don't think it's possible that anything gummed up, especially as it was just perfectly running in the afternoon.
Tomorrow, I will check if it's still there (probably will be, I'm guessing) and then check all the electrical connections...
15
« on: 11 May 2023, 09:47:46 pm »
Little update:
Have taken two more rides and the Fazer runs like a dream. The power is always right there from the get go and it really just feels like this is the way the bike is meant to be. There is also a notable increase of power. Was able to go little faster this time and wow, so much fun.
The bike also starts much better and runs smoother.
Really happy I went for these mods.
Hopefully next week I can actually take it out of town...
Thanks again so much!
[Edited to fix the tiny font problem - GrahamM: Moderator]
16
« on: 08 May 2023, 09:39:21 pm »
Well, there was a sarcastic undertone in my mind when I wrote that 
17
« on: 08 May 2023, 07:28:20 pm »
Funny you say that. I first had put those new aftermarket float needles in but then took them out again when doing the float hight as their spring tension was much higher and this made me doubt them.
Good news, everything seems to be working now.
First thing I did was measure the float hight of carb #2 and lo and behold, the height was way too low, so this was probably the reason for what happened yesterday.
I suspect how this might have happened. I set the float hight by holding the carbs slightly angled standing on it's side. It seems that when carb #2 was on the bottom side, the angle quickly became too steep so today I turned the carbs around so that #2 was at the top.
At that point, I decided to follow Pat's advice and raise the float hight from 14mm to 14.5mm and reset all the floats.
But the fun wasn't over:
After putting everything back together, I started the bike and it immediately revved up to 6000 rpms without any use of the throttle. I quickly switched it back off. I tried a few more times but it was the same. Choke made no difference.
I checked the throttle which was fine and even unhooked the throttle from the tensioner on the carb side. I turned the idle all the way down. Still the same.
At this point I was truly overcome by joy and in my mind composing my next message to you.
The only thing I could think of was the TPS. Since I had switched carbs it sure must have been way off. So I checked the TPS and the display gave me 10.000. I set it to 5000. By now the bike was turned off for a few minutes and when I turned it back on, it ran fine. I just had to set the idle back to the right setting.
I can't imagine the TPS being responsible for this behaviour (as there was also no problem yesterday) but nothing else changed. Any idea what might have happened?
It was about to rain and dinner time came close but I was able to do a 5 minute test drive and there were no issues.
Of course, it hard to really say something as the engine was cold and I didn't revv it higher than 4000 rpms but it definitely seemed more snappy (in a good way) and less "lazy" from low down. I can already say that it was definitely worth it.
Thanks so much Mike, and everybody else contributing to this thread, you were really a tremendous help! I will update again once I can do a proper assessment.
18
« on: 08 May 2023, 11:50:01 am »
Thank you, after doing some reading last night I thought this would be the case. Very nice to have this confirmed.
I already took out the carbs yesterday, last night I was thinking, I should have tried knocking it first.
I replaced the needle valve o-rings so that can probably be ruled out...
19
« on: 07 May 2023, 05:49:56 pm »
Today started out going very smoothly. I finally had time and weather was nice so I could finally finish up (or so I thought).
After reinstalling the radiator, I started up the bike and to my great joy, it started on the first press of the starter button.
I let it warm and after pushing the choke back, I synced the carbs with the carbtune pro. It really paid of prsyncing it with the ball bearings, as it went pretty fast and easy but it also showed that syncing with ball bearing alone is not enough.
The engine sounded better and smoother than it ever has. Thanks so much for the help, Mike!
After putting everything else back together (and doing some other stuff in the house), I pushed it out of my yard and wanted to take it for a quick test drive. It started right up but after going only a few meters the engine suddenly revved up really high with out me pulling the throttle. I switched off the bike and after restarting the engine revved right back up.
I looked under the carbs and it was pretty heavily dripping from carb #2.
Going to take out the carbs in a few minutes...
The gaskets for the carb bowls (and most other gaskets and o-rings) were brand new and the carb properly closed. From where could the dripping have come?
I'm guessing it's some connected with the float but it I set it to 14mm and checked repeatedly.
Hopefully, I will find an obvious reason when taking it apart...
20
« on: 03 May 2023, 05:18:18 pm »
Mine is also the same CCDF rotor which you have. Instead of filing it, I gave it a very light tap with a hammer and it fits very snug. Did you file it on the left or right side? If on the left the advancing might be little more than 4 degrees?
I am going the other way as you, the ignition rotor was the first mod, the rest is being done at the moment. On the stock bike it was very smooth at low rpms, I will update here once I've got the full monty done which I'm almost finished with.
What difference does it make if the rotor is magnetic or not?
21
« on: 03 May 2023, 10:56:55 am »
I recently put in my ignition advancer and took it for a quick spin around town right after that.What I noticed is smoother and more direct throttle low down.But you're not the only one noticing vibes:https://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=344.0
22
« on: 03 May 2023, 07:42:42 am »
Thanks, Mike.
Basically the only things left to be done is reinstalling the radiator and syncing the carbs (I already pre-synced them with the steel ball). Unfortunately, ist has been raining for the last couple of days.
I did everything according to your specs, set the mixture screw 4 turns out. In your experience this always works or does it sometimes need adjusting?
23
« on: 02 May 2023, 10:55:06 am »
Servicing a sticking caliper was basically the first thing I ever did on a bike and is what got me into doing stuff myself. Basically, I bled the caliper, took it apart and gave it a good clean.
When I recently bought my FZS 1000 the front callipers were also sticking, so I did the same.
In my experience nothing needs replacing. Even the seals were in great condition in both cases, you just have to remove them carefully. In both cases it was crud sticking to the pistons, so mainly they needed cleaning.
If you are inclined to try it yourself, they are loads of good videos on YouTube. It's a pretty easy job but a bit messy.
And if you want to keep it simple, here is a good video, how to clean them without taking them apart:
https://youtu.be/iFd-eJkxqVo
24
« on: 01 May 2023, 04:25:49 pm »
Yes, I thought about that but the downsides on these sets are that you will probably never need 80% of those shims. Also, if you watch DeWoodys video, he basically needed a lot of the same shims and in the other video it was the same (the Hotcam set didn't have everything he needed because it only supplies three of the same).
Having now read everything (mostly forum discussions) I could find on this subject, my conclusion is this: My engine is not in immediate danger but basically all of my valves are on the tight side and could really use a re-shimming which could also improve performance and increase gas mileage.
Seems a lot of wasted time and effort if knowing some valves are out of tolerance, you're not going to reset them. The way I see it is having the shim kit solves the problem of leaving it apart for any length of time on your drive. Also if as you say the kit only supplies 3 of each size well how lucky you've identified that only three of the valves are out.
As for probably never needing 80% of the kit, you have another option which is to take the bike to the shop pay them to make the adjustments for a small fortune more than the kit would cost you.
Sorry, forgot to reply. I guess you have a point, so maybe next time I will do that. My original plan was to close the engine back up and go to a local mechanic to get the shims but maybe it's less trouble just to get the shims kit. Another idea was to get a shims kit from Aliexpress where they cost much less...
25
« on: 30 April 2023, 11:58:43 pm »
Regarding the airbox cover mod, I read in some guides that the stub should be halved and shortened but Ivan says on fz1oa that it should only be halved and not shortened. What's the latest info on this matter? So far I only halved it: 
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