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Topics - tweetytek
1
« on: 03 October 2015, 09:28:29 am »
all these for sale, off my 'W' 2000 fzs600 [sold the bike]
1. GIVI 340F rack + M plate monokey (both excellent condition, no damage/missing parts) + GIVI E460N 46 litre topbox monokey (clean + very good condition + 2 keys) **£100** **SOLD**
2. Bellypan (average condition, with all fixings required to mount to frame) **£35****£35**
3. LED tail light with built in indicators [edge of display flashes yellow] (excellent condition - as new) **£40**
4. front and rear OEM indicators ** SOLD **
5. radiator grille ** SOLD **
6. Scottoiler ** SOLD **
PM me
apologies for image orientation...they are fine on my camera
2
« on: 16 November 2014, 09:26:38 pm »
so the parts catalog in the downloads section, refers to FZS600/(295DM-300E2) a quick check on wikipedia (not sure how accurate this is) suggests models - 1998: 5DM1.
- 1999: 5DM4.
- 2000: 5DM7.
- 2001: 5DMC for FZS600 and 5DMF for FZS600S.
- 2002: 5RT1
so where does the "295DM-300E2" come from and how do the above model numbers relate - if at all - to the parts catalog? ta
3
« on: 13 November 2014, 06:34:58 pm »
can you PM please if you have any
edit: got one.
4
« on: 30 October 2014, 10:03:42 pm »
You know those mini indicator led types, well I snapped the stalk halfway in middle. Clean cut so tried to stick it back together.tried 2 part epoxy,superglue,qbond, all seem to work but when I take the bike or or a 30min roadtests, the stalk is back in half again. Road vibe,wind and all that probably. They cost £40 so would like to fix if i can. Anyone done this?
5
« on: 23 October 2014, 06:35:48 pm »
The l/h leveling adjuster has cracked all around the screw. so the headlight is rocking back and forth freely. anyone had this and found a fix other than buying a entire new headlight assembly. I'd take a pic but my phone camera aint working - no other camera - but suffice to say there is a 360 degree hole now around the screw. Thinking of putting a black rubber washer on the outside then push the adjuster screw through into the inner assembly, so if I unscrew all the way does the adjuster come out? I didn't want to try in case it's a bugger to get back in?
6
« on: 17 October 2014, 09:48:20 pm »
Been reading lots of threads about front end mods to naked, street fighter, cafe racer and all that. And cluster mods and rewiring. All this madness me wonder what people say to their insurers when they ask 'has the vehicle been modified?'
Naturally there is a risk in not declaring and probably a cost of doing so. I lost £8000 in 2011 when my insurers didn't pay out after an accident of a trophy which had a modded frobt end;the police had the bike recovered and subsequenty engineers found out the bike was modded. Insurance void.
Just wondering what people tell their insurers and what extra costs they pay in premiums?
7
« on: 07 October 2014, 09:28:47 pm »
Was reading this today http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,13239.0.htmlNot true that images are not harmful... I work for an MoD contractor working in Defence Information and Intelligence (cyber security). PC based images are complex formats and contain meta data and other parts that are not directly visible when painted onto the display — it is possible to conceal "stuff" within without affecting how the image is displayed on the screen , even when hyperlinked. Venomous data can reside within the image that exploits "back doors" in poor quality image rendering programs - including doors like stacks, buffers, data segment larger than the stated image format type and exception handlers and alike. With skill, a virus writer  can utilise these flaws to infect your machine when you open the image with a certain program. Granted this wont work just displaying the image as Mickvp said, but if one were to click on the image and open it in a certain app, then Bang!! you're infected. Just thought I'd clear that up for the Admins
8
« on: 07 October 2014, 08:56:50 pm »
anyone speak Czech?
9
« on: 07 October 2014, 08:56:10 pm »
I advised the company that I was going to share my experience with their Customer Services - they said "we're not going to stop you Sir" - so here you go...
This is not a review, this is a chronology of factual events relating to a real life transaction:-
I purchased a waterproof jacket and trousers from GhostBikes in Preston, Lancs. They also trade via eBay and have their web portal. The Armour suit was £180 for the jacket and £99 for the trousers. The trousers have a tag , several tags, promoting the waterproof membrane "water barrier". The labels go on to give a breakdown of innovative materials to help breath and keep water firmly out. I bought the suit in May this year.
I have never used the suit in the rain - I've been lucky or the rain has stayed away - until this week. Come rain, sat on the bike during a 30 minute journey , I got to work and my legs and bottom were soaked. Not damp, soaked. I contacted GhostBikes and was told that as I had used the product and owned it for more than 30 days they would not offer a refund but would return them to the manufacturer for "testing". I contacted Trading Standards and spoke to a nice lady who advised that there was a 60 day statutory consumer law rule that required, for a period of 60 days from purchase, items to be of merchantable quality and fit for their intended purpose. Further, trading standards stated that the vendor (GhostBikes) was entitled to return the good to the manufacturer but the consumer must not be charged for the return to the manufacturer, and must not be inconvenienced. Well if I had no waterproof pants in rain then I'd call that inconvenienced. I got back on the phone to GhostBikes
GhostBikes put their "Manager" on the phone who simply repeated their previous line. They would return the trousers to the manufacturer. I explained that I would be inconvenienced and could they lend me a pair , any pair lying around , perhaps a return or slightly damaged (label or something) pair. "NO! We cannot" was their response. I stated that they were in my view in breach of consumer law. They denied this and said there was no way I could be lent a pair of trousers. I said I would get back onto trading standards and reserve the right to reject the goods through the small claims court. "We are not stopping you Sir" was their response.
I am now considering my options
But if you are thinking of purchasing "waterproof" trousers as the decidedly autumninal/wintery chill takes a grip, then you may want to take a jug of water with you, pour over the pants, wait 10 minutes and then buy them if they work. Otherwise you could be throwing your CA$H away!
10
« on: 06 October 2014, 07:12:19 pm »
many thanks to Red98 for a slick painless transaction wrt some bars.  
11
« on: 06 October 2014, 05:35:12 pm »
Had a quote for £250+VAT to repair, prime and respray my nose fairing + the other plastics. Well, had a few quotes but that was cheapest/nearest.
Have been looking at doing the job myself and what it might cost in capital outlay; I have this bike and another that I could bring back to life in terms of paint job, and I suppose the garden fence needs painting and the hose room doors could come off too for a lick. seen these "mobile" HVLP systems; quite a few on the market but has anyone actually used one and can they please provide feedback on their experience particularly in spraying motorcycle parts.
12
« on: 04 October 2014, 08:27:30 pm »
Non stock type, like the aftermarket stuff .
Cheers
Ta
13
« on: 04 October 2014, 04:10:43 pm »
I have been told by a fleabayer that some YZF/FZR 600 footpegs will fit my 600 fizzy (yr 2000). Is this correct and any particular year of FZR/YZF. I thought the YZF was pretty same bike anyway?
TIA
15
« on: 01 October 2014, 08:07:48 am »
Yeah, lots of topics on this probably but just wanted to canvass current views... I need a a new bar and read these but have a question: http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=779.0http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=10631.0 1. on the gen1 fizzy, I quite like the height of the OEM bar, note that these 758s are "ultra low" - never seen any in-situ, so question is whether these are the same-ish height of the OEM bar or whether there is another alternative more suitable, than the OEM? 2. Also, after filing down the lugs , what have people used to get a grip on the switch gear - I do not want to drill holes 3. Where did you get bar ends from (online - perhaps a link plz?  ) TIA
16
« on: 30 September 2014, 04:24:55 pm »
Do you have a [unbent] VGC handlebar
PM please
17
« on: 30 September 2014, 04:23:37 pm »
Noggy kindly offered one but it was just a little skewed like mine (!) so does anyone have a front frame/subframe/mount - whatever its called - that mounts the headlight and fairing assembly and can post to FY2.
PM please
18
« on: 30 September 2014, 12:33:32 pm »
So after dropping the bike at slow speed most of the repairs have been done save the front bracket/fairing frame/subframe/headlight frame .. no idea what you call it.
Noggy is looing at one of his lying around (nice guy) but I was thinking that the reason these come on the market/into hands is that a bike had been broken down/braking and the reason you might get hold of one - typically - is that the provider got rid of it because it was bent. Nearly new straight ones are hard to come by - I've not seen any.
I've tried fettling with hammering rubber mallet around the frame, using long 2x2 to bend the frame, poles, but no matter what I do when I put the nose ABS back on and fit the mirrors, the cockpit is tilted/twisted around vertical and horizontal axis , and the mirrors - well one is higher than the other ... all not by much but enough to do my tits in riding.
Any constructive helpful pratical tips ??
20
« on: 26 September 2014, 08:54:09 am »
had a low speed drop today whilst braking, 10mph, over diesel at a roundabout near a newbuild estate; often see HGVs with fuel pissing out at the back in a cold morning as it was this morning at 6am. Bike went down on the l/h side and the front nose frame seems tilted up, toward the right; for example the l/h mirror is about 7cm higher than the r/h side mirror; unable to visually discern whether the forks are 100% ok or the clamps/yolk, so thinking of sending the bike into my meachnic's shop for a checkover. anyone got a similar experience to share wrt to a Fizzy?
21
« on: 23 September 2014, 09:28:13 pm »
Getting the well known front end rattle and vibes around 4-6k Articles on here , HotPoop, and stuff like darrsi's tip here for the l/h bulb: http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,7306.msg70092.html#msg70092Thought I'd extend this just a little and do something to the r/h bulb (high/dip bulb) .. Similar to darrsi, self amalgamating tape, but this time cut into 3 [very] thin strips about 5mm wide, and stretched, really stretched, around each lug. Pushed home in the housing (make sure you get the fat lug at the top) and viola , no more rattle on either side. As darrsi says, the self amalgamating tape has a "squidgy" soft cushion effect, more so than that plastic insulating tape stuff. And you dont need much of it. Now there is doubtless going to be some smartarse who knows a better or alternative method. Fine, bully for you, tell us all about it. This is simple, took 2 minutes, sorted the problem.
22
« on: 20 September 2014, 11:20:47 am »
PROFI CAT-SE Laser Chain Alignment tool.... Cheapest on fleabay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Profi-SE-CAT-Motorcycle-Chain-Alignment-Tool-Dot-Laser-Type-/271480646518?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3f3581eb76Using the laser adjuster - as per packaged instructions. Here I am using the PROFI CAT-SE DOT LASER tool - you dont need to buy the "line" laser at around £40 more, the dot laser is fine. Essentially the concept is that a highly machined accurate laser level line [manufactured by our efficient German "zupervolks"] is shone in a line. to test the run of the chain and thus the rear wheel alignment. The error margin of 0.05% makes sure you get a level line. Don't rush out to buy a B&Q laser tape measure for £8.99 - they don't work as they are inaccurate. A few mm error makes all the difference. Here is the laser in the box And the component parts. Simple instructions, 2x batteries, stickers and cards for awkward bikes - not needed for Fazer Here is the magic laser device, high engineered to an error margin of 0.05% Hugger off and now we can see the chain and the dirty old hugger which I've keyed down for a quick touchup Lets balance the wheel...First offer up the laser against the rear sprocket and the dots appear on the top of the left chain plates, you can make out the red dots in the middle of the pic. The dot just covers the thickness of the plate. Great, a reference point. The image is taken in the day, you can see the light, but in the garage the light is very bright. Note how the dot light first hits a plate just to the left of the device, on top of the plate. Next I keep the laser against the sprocket but tilt up so that the dot moves along the chain to the front sprocket. The dot is not in the middle of the chain and again covers the left hand side chain plate, on the top, spot on - same as before. Image is a bit shite as the dot is actually on the top of the plate when looking down; here I'm trying to hold the laser, position it, and take a pic.  |
Now titling the laser up a little more the dots move as far as I can see to the front sprocket. Dots on top of the left hand chain plate once again. Bob on, level chain, means wheel aligned. HOWEVER, the swingarm markers tell me otherwise .... lesson learned - DONT TRUST THE SWINGARM MARKERS! If the dot moved off the plate to left or right then one can deduce that the wheel is not aligned and you simply adjust the wheel adjusters to account for the misalignment. Different chains and sprockets may make the dot appear in different locations. That is fine provided you stick to the same reference point(s) along the chain. For example, if the light hits the middle of a roller, make sure it hits the middle of each roller you test along the chain. Simplez. Oh, nearly forgot that naughty hugger - here she is all spanky
23
« on: 16 September 2014, 09:40:56 pm »
UPDATED 2014/09/19: Include chain alignment Did this a while ago , only just got the pics from my missus' iPhone... forgive gaps/assumptions, if there are any let me know and I'll try to expand the text... parts required: 1. DID heavy duty X-Ring chain and sprocket kit: http://www.bikespeeduk.com/chain-sprocket-kits/did-kits/did-gold-x-ring-kits/did-gold-x-ring-chain-sprocket-kit-yamaha-fzs600-fazer-97-03/prod_1665.html2. OEM rear wheel bearing kit + seals: http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fzs_600_fazer_sp/00/picture/rear_wheel_bearing_kit_with_dust_seals/3. Yamaha OEM upgraded front sprocket nut [do the search on these forums!]: http://www.wemoto.com/parts/picture/yh-90891-10124/44. Laser chain alignment tool: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Profi-SE-CAT-Motorcycle-Chain-Alignment-Tool-Dot-Laser-Type-/271480646518?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item3f3581eb76tools required: 1. torque wrench 70nm to 117nm (I have two, each covering the lower and upper ranges) 2. bearing driver 3. bearing removal/punch 4. 32mm socket for the front sprocket nut. 5. 27mm socket for the wheel spindle nut. 6. 24mm socket or spanner for the wheel spindle. procedure: Remove gear selector. NOTE the location of the mating punch hole. On my bike this points to the gap in the selector clamp. on refit, the punch marker must be in the same location.  Remove the front drive sprocket cover and move it out of the way. I used a tiewrap. I cleaned inside the cover area as it was full of shite and lube which had collected years of shit from previous years of riding when the previous owner had it.  Push back the locking tab. Loosen the sprocket nut. This will be tight and probably a bit rusty. To assist removing, have the wifey sit on the bike and apply the rear brake. The chain is still on so this will "lock" the sprocket. I used a 1metre long pipe sleeved over a socket wrench to offer extra leverage. Be sure to push in on the locknut as you apply turning force, otherwise you are twisting the nut off and may damage the transmission. This is why we didnt break the chain early on!   Pull off the sprocket. The chain will come with it. Fit new sprocket - noting the markings on the face side when in situ - and fit the upgraded nut and then fit the new locking tab and using a punch, tap the edges securely over the nut. I didnt use loctite but hey - what's the point of riding without a little risk ! The nut should be tightened to 70nm. Again, wifey with the foot on the brake and the old chain still attached will help when tightening the nut.  Loosen rear caliper torque arm bolt (I dont remove the calliper - no need to). Remove rear wheel axle nut and chain adjuster nuts. Remove axle. Note spacers and orientation of spacers, two off, one l/h wheel side and one r/h caliper side. Remove axle. I used a socket wrench to drive out the axle, hammering from the sprocket side to the calliper side. Remove the adjuster blocks. Take the wheel off. I took the opportunity to give the area a good clean - the first one for a decade by the looks of things. With the wheel off, support it with blocks of wood so it is off the floor. Remove sprocket nuts ensuring that you remove this in a criss cross pattern. At this point I changed the wheel bearings and cush bearings. You dont need to but why not if you've got this far.  [Limit reached] [Limit reached] [Limit reached] [Limit reached] Fit new rear sprocket noting the markings on the face when in situ. Tighten the sprocket nuts in a criss-cross pattern again, tighten upto 60Nm. [Limit reached] At last, break the chain. I used a cheap £30 breaker/rivet kit off eBay. Works fine. Had it many years.  [Limit reached] Feed the new chain over the front sprocket (the cover is still off so this makes the job easier). Fit the rear wheel, push forward, bring the new chain over the swingarm and around the rear sprocket. But the link end on a clean paper towel on the floor and rivet it up. Fit the link plate and rivets and X-ring according to the instructions. The kit should have a pack of lube that you can spread over the plate and rivets. Use the rivet tool and a vernier calliper to measure the diameter of the flared rivets. Too low and the chain will come off, too tight and it will snap !  [Limit reached] [Limit reached]  Bring the wheel back and refit the adjuster blocks. Make sure you refit in the orientation they came out. Clean the axle with WD40 and grease with lithium soap based grease. Refit axle. Tighten axle nut so that the wheel offers resistance. Align wheel using chain alignment, info here: http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=14764.msg167280#msg167280Set chain freeplay at 35mm measuring midway at chain where it crosses the leading edge of the tyre wall. Tighten each side of the adjuster (or loosen and push wheel forward) so that the chain runs true through to the front sprocket. Tighten adjuster locking nuts to 17nm. Tighten axle nut to 117nM and tighten the calliper nut to 40nM. And at last, refit sprocket cover and tighten nuts to 10nM Finally refit gear selector noting notch location on refit. END OF If anyone is having a problem or needs more explanation, post below. By the way, the laser chain alignment tool is a must. The markers on my swingarm are out so if you were tightening up the rear wheel using the adjustment markers then you may have cocked the wheel and make the bike unstable at speed. This is a common fault on many bikes I have worked on. Those tools with a metal rod are ok, but not as good as the laser tool. For £30 odd quid it pays for itself in bike performance and safety Hope this helps.
24
« on: 09 September 2014, 09:20:34 pm »
Have bought a Suzi 500GS which runs fine, solid engine and frame but engine and frame paint (black, gold, silver , red - grrr) has seen better days. Few areas of surface rust. Lots of grime. I am also half way through the clean up and sand of my fizzie engine and frame.
I'd like to sodablast the two of them as a clean + prep for respray. A PSI of 90, maybe 100 tops should be okay to take paint off however I am unsure what CFM I would need and whether this relates to the regulated PSI ? The CFM will dicate the nozzle size, I'm thinking 3-5mm nozzle size to get some accuracy and avoid overshoot.
Can anyone recommend suitable (not over the top) soda blasting equipment; ideally I'm looking for a single unit but a few pals reckon that I'd need a compressor + a portable sodablasting unit. not sure which units would work well - so many choices out there so ideally looking for recommendation based on actual working experience gained using a specific unit/combo
Please dont tell me I'm a nutcase or doing the wrong thing or an idiot - I'm over 50 and been riding stupid, cool and dangerous bikes for over 40 years (I started motocross at 10!) - I'm already and idiot! thank you
25
« on: 03 September 2014, 12:48:17 am »
just read this: http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=6847.0 and it got me thinking about an idle problem I'm having on the FZS going to check my pilot screw settings and will seat gently then turn out 2 turns , and go from there. just looked at them now and they are all over the place - which suggests someone who doesnt know what they have been doing has been at them. I'm having trouble getting the rev needle to stay quiet at idle and no 3 and 4 cylinders sound like they are out , the two corresponding pilot screws look out, so why not. Just waiting for the sealey ms013 tool to arrive. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230920771918 Didnt go for something expensive as Im selling the bike - I've got another FZS that runs fine! Will let you know what happens
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