Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner => Topic started by: reggit on 17 July 2017, 10:50:23 am
-
Thought I'd drop an intro on here as well as the welcome section.
I've just bought myself a cheap (£950) Fazer 1000 on a 52 plate with highish mileage (48000) taken a bit of a gamble as it's a non-runner - fuel pump is definitely not operating, so I'm hoping it's a simple fix.
I'm having to have the bike transported (as it's not running) so am getting impatient awaiting it's arrival, hopefully Wednesday.
I'm sure I'll be asking lots of probably silly questions on here as I go through the bike.
-
Sounds like you might have got a bargain there.
Keep us posted on your progress.
-
Welcome Reggit.
You'll find that we're a helpful bunch on here with even a guru or two on the Gen1.
Good luck with the project and let us all know how you're getting on in due course.
-
Thanks for the welcome.
Bike arrived late afternoon today. I'll get some pics up soon.
Not done much, but unfortunately found out the pump does work, and the carb floatbowls where also full, so not as simple as I'd hoped :-(
There is also a spark, but only tried on a new plug - I need to whip the plugs out and compression check the engine.
Ignition switch needs a good looking at or replacing as it's stiff as anything.
I'm sure there'll be a lot more needs doing..... but first thing is seeing if the engine is good.
-
The ignition switches tend to wear. Plenty of wd40 should get it moving again.
But you may find due to wear you have push to key forward or back when in the barrel then turn.
Mine won't budge unless I give it a nudge one way to turn on, then the other to turn off and lock. As long as I do that it works no problem.
-
This is how it looks at 5pm today when it rolled off the van - the picture makes it look nice!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4305/36032392595_632482aeab_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WU4qYc)fazer (https://flic.kr/p/WU4qYc) by d.a.thornber@btinternet.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156757295@N05/), on Flickr
I've so far found one of the coils is arcing out, there's coolant sitting in the rocker cover where a coolant pipe enters, the coolant is pressurising when I try and start it - looking head gasket ish to me at the minute :-(
Question - how the heck are you meant to get to the rocker cover/spark plugs with all the gubbins that sits above it? I've not seen so much stuff on any of my other bikes.
-
The ignition switches tend to wear. Plenty of wd40 should get it moving again.
But you may find due to wear you have push to key forward or back when in the barrel then turn.
Mine won't budge unless I give it a nudge one way to turn on, then the other to turn off and lock. As long as I do that it works no problem.
Thanks for that tip, it needs pulling back a bit then it's happy.
-
The gubbins is the Air Injection System and this has to be removed to get the cam cover off. You can remove it permanently with no effect on performance.
As I new Fazer owner, I recommend you take a look at Pat's Site and you'll find loads on great info on how to maintain and mod this bike, including AIS removal:
http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/ (http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/)
-
If you haven't done so already have a read through the FAQ at the top of the page.
-
http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/index.html (http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/index.html)
AIS easy done with tap and grub screws, no need to buy little covers that fit over, you can get all from ebay for a few quid. Tap just needs to be turned using a spanner due to space limitations. Cutting fluid and nice and slow/careful
-
[url]http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/index.html[/url] ([url]http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/index.html[/url])
AIS easy done with tap and grub screws, no need to buy little covers that fit over, you can get all from ebay for a few quid. Tap just needs to be turned using a spanner due to space limitations. Cutting fluid and nice and slow/careful
That's a good site that has been linked to. I've pulled the AIS off - need to check valve clearances anyway to see if that's a reason the bike won't start - got a huge backfire out of it earlier - I really suspect the head will need to come off at some point, but looking at the state of the exhaust studs, I'm hoping not!
Happy tapping and blocking the exhaust fittings, are you saying you don't block the airbox pipe hole?
-
This makes interesting (horrifying) reading! I've deliberately blocked out the company name.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4319/35878585432_1fd2126c19_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WEt8sy)invoice (https://flic.kr/p/WEt8sy) by d.a.thornber@btinternet.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156757295@N05/), on Flickr
especially when you look at these bits I've taken off the bike .
Are these plugs really just over a year old and covered less than 500 miles? Bike is showing 49,247 miles now.
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4310/36007766446_efbaff9962_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WRTdtq)spark plugs (https://flic.kr/p/WRTdtq) by d.a.thornber@btinternet.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156757295@N05/), on Flickr
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4306/36007766386_4889eb2fd4_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WRTdso)close up plugs (https://flic.kr/p/WRTdso) by d.a.thornber@btinternet.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156757295@N05/), on Flickr
and the ignition coil (1&4) that is arcing on the body and look at the leads - sorry a bit out of focus!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4316/36007766326_76bdcb2707_b.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/WRTdrm)HT leads (https://flic.kr/p/WRTdrm) by d.a.thornber@btinternet.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156757295@N05/), on Flickr
This is why I do my own servicing!
-
What a bunch of bloody ripoff merchants! Those plugs are never 500 miles old and the rest of their worksheet reads like a comic. How do dealers get away with this crap?
At least you didn't foot the bill for that outrageous job sheet but seriously, name and shame the robbing bastards!
-
What a bunch of bloody ripoff merchants! Those plugs are never 500 miles old and the rest of their worksheet reads like a comic. How do dealers get away with this crap?
At least you didn't foot the bill for that outrageous job sheet but seriously, name and shame the robbing bastards!
Ditto, ditto & ditto once more for good measure! :eek :eek :eek
That garage are ying, cheating, con artist w**nkers - as Mike says, name & shame so others will know to avoid!
However....Maybe the whole bike does just needs a good service actually done & you'll be good to go....fingers crossed! :)
-
It's getting that good service - valve clearances today/tomorrow - depending on how long it takes to get shims if needed.
New coil on order, new plugs ready to go in.
What was interesting, I couldn't get my plug socket in with the rocker cover on, the sealing gasket around the plug holes was swollen on both outside plugs - didn't bother trying the middle ones. Looks like they haven't been done in donkeys years!
The invoice I pictured was from 'two wheels only' in London. My hesitation in posting that earlier was that there is no traceability of the parts from the bike leaving them to me buying it. Could someone have changed new bits for old? (I doubt it but you never know).
I have a feeling it will be OK after giving it a major service.
I may need to source the coolant pipes that bolt to the top of the head and run through the rocker cover as the ones on mine are badly corroded and not sealing well to the rubber hoses.
-
Valve clearances checked and although slightly tight can wait until winter when I'll have plenty of time to have the cams out.
I'm currently the middle of tapping the AIS holes on the exhaust to block them off.
Next question....
Having drained around a gallon and half of 'rusty petrol' out of the tank, I'm left with quite a lot of debris in the bottom - any suggestions on how to get the majority of this out? I'm loath to use a sealer as the tank isn't holed or anything (and it'll gum up the level sensor). Did wonder if washing it out in diesel would work - it's heavier than petrol, may hold the debris in suspension to drain it out?
After this my attention turns to the carbs - guessing these will have ingested rusty petrol!
I'm feeling fairly happy now that I know why it doesn't run, and it should be good once the servicing/cleaning is complete.
-
She runs! :-)
Only on starting fluid at the minute as I haven't got the tank cleaned out fully, but there's life in the old girl!
Only needed a good service as was paid for by the last owner.
-
Nice one! Hope you sort out all the niggles and get her running as a well-kept Fazer should. :)
-
Yes good news, I've been following this thread with interest, keep us posted.
-
Yes good news, I've been following this thread with interest, keep us posted.
Same as that
-
She runs! :-)
:thumbup :woot
-
Make it live! We're all on your side!
Poor old Fazer, being treated badly by that shabby bunch in London. I see Two Wheels Only's website domain is up for sale. Are they even still in business? I'm pretty sure I got a set of tyres fitted by them decades ago, but never used them for service.
-
How did you get the cam cover off? Does the coolant from the pipes on top drain out of weep holes in the block like a spark plug drain hole?
-
How did you get the cam cover off? Does the coolant from the pipes on top drain out of weep holes in the block like a spark plug drain hole?
Take AIS off - i'm in the middle of removing this completely and have run into a problem (separate thread). HT heads off and hooked up out of the way, coolant pipes off - I unbolted the 'stat housing to get more room.
6x Allen bolts hold the cam cover on, it just lifts off and slides out of the frame, access is a little tight and it needs a little jiggling around to get it out.
Didn't notice where coolant dribbles went (not in engine though) so can't help there.
-
Well, you'll probably guess from the following picture that I'm not too unhappy! Just need to set the clock....
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4325/35409364214_ddbd02e044_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/VX1fky)
It was smoking quite heavily from the exhaust initially, but that cleared to steam - guessing it's nothing to worry about and just remnants of it's previously poor state of health.
It has a rock steady idle and runs up (off load) nicely. I've still got a good few jobs to attend to, but the battle appears to be won! Just getting impatient now!
Stiff throttle next.....
-
Keep at it, mate ... you're winning! :)
-
Now insured, waiting impatiently to tax it tomorrow and see how it rides - fingers crossed the carbs aren't gummed up!
The sticking throttle was just the switchgear/guide clogged up in old grease, so easy fix.
Just looking at it's MOT's - something dodgy I thing with the shop I bought it from as it's not one 1 mile since it's MOT in May; me thinks it wasn't running then and was pushed in. I drained a gallon and half of manky petrol out of the poor thing, so can't see how it would have run then.
This made me laugh, have you ever seen a bike cover so few miles between MOT tests?
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4293/35482395133_c074d8019d_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/W4sxTk)
-
Unless you're incredibly lucky, I see a trip into the carbs in your near future. With that little mileage the pilot circuits and jets are going to need cleaning out.
Fingers crossed!
-
I'm expecting it to be honest, but can't test any further without getting it on the road to see how it behaves. Pilots seem ok on idle and off load. It'll cost me one of Ivan's kits if I have to pull them apart!
Was just putting the bike back together and noticed that the air filter (not k&n style) is uniformly oiled in clean oil , doesn't look right to me, and will explain why it smoked like a chimney for a while when it first fired up. New one on its way to delay things another day or so!
-
If it's idling OK you might be lucky with the pilots. When blocked, the bike usually won't run clean until it gets to around 3k rpm or so.
Is the oiled air filter a paper OE type? If so, the oiling might be a result of oil mist from the crankcase breather which vents into the airbox.
-
Is the oiled air filter a paper OE type? If so, the oiling might be a result of oil mist from the crankcase breather which vents into the airbox.
Looks OE type, definitely not K&N type that should be oiled. It's a very uniform covering on the filter, which is at odds to what I've seen on a 'heavy breathing' engine in the past, although that was on a car. The oil also smells different to that in the sump, I'm just going to change it and clean the airbox up and see what happens.
Thanks for your advice....
-
Sounds like your bike has had some weird things done to it in the past 3 years. :)
-
Nice to see a Fazer resurrected rather than just broken for parts. Sounds like the previous owner had just given up. Well done :)
-
Good to read she lives. :)
Don't forget exup, if no 7 code and it moves maybe leave for later or she could be off road again for a bit.
Check its adjusted right
Run some 3in1 down cables from top, they can get dry and tight and do the throttle cable.
You can start to think of mods now, R6 shock, Rethals etc
-
Weirdly the exup valve looks in good nick externally and isn't reporting an error, so am leaving it for a while, at least until I can determine the rest of the bike is good.
Not going too silly on thinking about mods, at least not until I've scared myself silly a few times lol
Just want to put fresh oil and filters in the old girl, then see how she behaves! Hopefully Friday morning as away with family over weekend.
-
You do realise we're all on the edge of our seats here :D
-
The ignition switches tend to wear. Plenty of wd40 should get it moving again.
But you may find due to wear you have push to key forward or back when in the barrel then turn.
Mine won't budge unless I give it a nudge one way to turn on, then the other to turn off and lock. As long as I do that it works no problem.
Thanks for that tip, it needs pulling back a bit then it's happy.
Seems that most Yamaha switches are the same, mine FZS 600 need just slightly pulling back towards the rider and it then functions smoothly, without pulling it backwards it will not turn, as long as you know 'Jobs a Goodun'
-
Bugger! So near and yet so far!
All back together, let it idle up to temperature (well warm at least) and it sprouts a coolant leak! Job for next week.
Looks like no test ride today as away for long weekend with wife and kids in a bit.
Are these things supposed to be 'interesting' to start from cold? I need full choke and a bit of throttle, then it won't idle for half a minute or so. Suspecting something out of adjustment.
-
You'll be glad to know that this is probably my last post on this thread!
Coolant leak was simple, some idiot hadn't tightened up one of the hoses properly
Test ridden it around 6 miles, bloody hell this is the comfiest bike I've ever ridden :-) It runs well as well, so it look like I've got away without stripping the carbs.
Found the reason it hasn't been doing many miles - the speedo isn't working! Next most urgent fix.
Still got a slight coolant leak, the hoses are not in brilliant condition, so may use that as an excuse to order some samco's now I know everything major works. Job for next week though to stop the leak.
Also need to refit the belly pan!
Very very happy now :-)
Total out lay is around £1200, don't know the going rate, but I'm happy enough :-)
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4392/36228063781_e183fe4f7f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Xcmick)Woohoo it runs! (https://flic.kr/p/Xcmick) by d.a.thornber@btinternet.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156757295@N05/), on Flickr
Te
-
Brilliant news, good to see you perseverance and hard work have paid off and you can start enjoying the bike now rather than swearing at it.
-
Fab news. Well done!
-
I hate to be Mr Buzzkill but where's the coolant leak appearing? If it's dripping off underneath the sump, check that it's not coming from the drain hole in the sump pan. The oil and coolant pump live in the sump and if the ceramic seal on the latter fails, it's designed to leak directly out of that hole rather than into the oil pan. Read more here about the cause and how to fix it:
http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37957&highlight=water+pump (http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37957&highlight=water+pump)
Hopefully I'm wrong and it's just a slack hose but given the uncertain history of your bike, who knows?
-
It's something silly I'm sure, looks to be somewhere around the stat housing. Sure it's nothing major.
-
Good, if you can see the leak somewhere up high, it's not going to be the water pump seals. :)
-
Good, if you can see the leak somewhere up high, it's not going to be the water pump seals. :)
Have we all collectively breathed a huge sigh of relief? :woot
-
Have we all collectively breathed a huge sigh of relief? :woot
Not yet - I can't get the blooming speedo working!
Can anyone tell me the gear/rpm for 30mph and 70 in top? If I have a vague idea of what speed it's doing.....
-
http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/15toothfrontsprocketinstallation.html (http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/15toothfrontsprocketinstallation.html)
-
Falcon, that's awesome just print off and laminate it, stick it on yer tank :rollin
-
Falcon, that's awesome just print off and laminate it, stick it on yer tank :rollin
I might just do that if I can't get it working :-) don't like to be beaten by a lump of metal and plastic though!
-
May be just the top 2 gears, lol
-
and I said last post a while back!
Anyway, the waterleak was from one of the pipes that run through the rocker cover, it wasn't sealing on the corroded metal pipe - seems good after being attacked by a bit of wet and dry.
Now leaking from the rad cap with a hot engine - I might get there eventually!
edit: Thermostat's jammed shut, ok it's slightly opening but no where near fully, can't help but wonder who looked after this bike in the past! Also sheared one of the stat housing bolts, so probably just get a replacement housing. That's my rally out of the window :-(
Speedo still not working, but I popped the clocks apart to be greeted by an unmistakable smell of fried electronics - I'm an ex-electronics engineer, once smelled never forgotten. Got a guaranteed working set of clocks on their way from a crashed bike, got 'em cheap as the mounting lugs are broken. Hopefully that will cure it! There's not much else it could be either - haha. Found my old GPS, won't charge on it's bike mound but will from 240v and runs about 3 hours on battery - that'll do for Mr Plod until I get the bike speedo working.
-
At last!
New clocks and 2 new sensors (all used) has it working! 1st replacement sensor worked initially, but died very quickly. Suspect the fault on the original clocks killed it.
Replacement thermostat housing and 'stat fitted and she seems like she's good to go.
I'm sure something else will rear it's ugly head in the very near future. It needs replacement chain/sprox, but not counting this as a fault as they are consumables.
-
Glad you're gradually getting your bike sorted and hopefully enjoying riding it, old school by today standards but still clip along at a reasonable rate when you're of a mind to. :)
-
Last (I hope) fault found and rectified!
The coolant leaks seem to have been caused by the engine coolant over pressurising. I found the pipe to the expansion tank was blocked. Git this cleared out now and it seems ok. I'll be having a few rides out close to home whilst my confidence is building that the bike isn't going to let me down!
I've never known anything with so many little faults!
-
Yup, but you're doing a bang-up job of finding and fixing them! :)
-
Lost the will to live with it, still losing water and the high temperature warning popped on after 10-15 miles taking it easy.
It's now on ebay, as a spares/repair project.
I don't like to give in, but wanted a bike I could ride with little work and my other 2 are in bits needing work (350LC needs engine rebuild and Honda CB1000 needs frame repair due to rust). I'll undoubtedly make a loss on this fazer, but hopefully will get my life back.
Bought another which looks like it's had a better life and comes with suspension upgrades and ignition advancer etc. Picking it up on Tuesday.
-
Sorry to hear that Reggit. I know what you mean. I've had the same scenario in the past. When the stress / number of new issues, starts out weighing the satisfaction of the completed jobs, the fun ends and the pot of enthusiasm runs dry.
Sadly, not many people are that interested in buying a bike with issues though. Hope I'm wrong and that it sells quickly and you get what you want for it.
-
Sorry to hear that Reggit. I know what you mean. I've had the same scenario in the past. When the stress / number of new issues, starts out weighing the satisfaction of the completed jobs, the fun ends and the pot of enthusiasm runs dry.
Sadly, not many people are that interested in buying a bike with issues though. Hope I'm wrong and that it sells quickly and you get what you want for it.
It'll sell, listed with no reserve. If it looks like I'll only get a pittance for it, I'll probably pull the auction and shove it in the back of the garage until I feel like looking at it again.
-
Lost the will to live with it, still losing water and the high temperature warning popped on after 10-15 miles taking it easy.
It's now on ebay, as a spares/repair project.
I don't like to give in, but wanted a bike I could ride with little work and my other 2 are in bits needing work (350LC needs engine rebuild and Honda CB1000 needs frame repair due to rust). I'll undoubtedly make a loss on this fazer, but hopefully will get my life back.
Bought another which looks like it's had a better life and comes with suspension upgrades and ignition advancer etc. Picking it up on Tuesday.
A shame but probably the right decision....I have an old car that I know I should make the same call over................
-
So close. Well, if it doesn't meet a decent reserve on ebay, maybe you'll get chance to revisit it later when you feel a bit more inclined to try again. :)
-
Here's a question (mainly cause I've had a few beers)....
Should I keep the bike and throw a cover over it in the corner of the garage and forget about it for a while?
I could do with the money from it to partially pay for the new one, but.....
-
You've put a lot of time into resolving some niggly problems, so you have a fair bit invested in the bike. So long as you're sure that the overheating isn't a head gasket problem, I'd be inclined to hold on to it through the winter and take your time getting it right.
-
I had a Triumph 955sprint seem to remember it started to do a similar thing new thermostat cured it old one was sticking intermittently.
-
Did you replace the radiator cap? If it's not holding pressure this can cause the coolant to boil.
-
Rad cap has been changed, thermostat was stuck shut.
Really starting to suspect it may be HG breached compression to a coolant passage. That's not even too hard a job, just time consuming. One of the reasons I thought about keeping it and revisiting it in a few months. I'd have to hide it from the missus though!
I'll see how the bidding goes and make my mind up towards the end of the auction.
-
Honda CB1000 needs frame repair due to rust
Any chance of more details?
-
Honda CB1000 needs frame repair due to rust
Any chance of more details?
Cross tube which hides behind the exhaust headers and radiator has a rust split in it. I'm slowly pulling it apart to get the frame repaired and powder coated. I know of another in the locality that has the same issue.
Do you have one? There's a picture on the CB forum somewhere - maybe not, photobucket will have knobbled it!
-
my other projects - these are the reason I wanted a working bike!
(https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4405/36692900422_c4f24c2b41_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/XUqGWb)Other projects! (https://flic.kr/p/XUqGWb) by d.a.thornber@btinternet.com (https://www.flickr.com/photos/156757295@N05/), on Flickr
-
You need to do two things :-
1. Keep the Fazer, unless the bidding goes above the amount you have put into it then you sell at no loss and maybe a little profit.
2. Buy a bigger shed.
-
Do you have one?
No. I have two CB400s, one is a wet weather / salty roads run around and the other is a 3 year restoration project that is just about finished. Having a second bike of the same type as the restoration bike is exceedingly handy as a reference, it's turned out to be an inspired buy, despite minor opposition from missus. Now that the restoration bike is back together and running I am considering selling the two and buying a CB1000 as I've always liked the look of them, hence my interest. A CB1300 is the other contender. I would add as a fourth bike but I've been told 3 is the limit, if a fourth arrives I'll suddenly find myself single apparently.
I actually enjoy the CB400s as much as the Fazer, it's a different mentality having only around 50 horses. Parts can be pricey, otherwise they are cheap to run.
-
Reluctantly let the fazer sell on eBay, ended up out of pocket by about £400 :-(. Still it was doing my head in 😢and the new one is very nice 😀. May now actually be able to get my little baby up and running again!
Thanks for the support on this thread, something's aren't meant to be!
Just hope the black one gets collected and paid for now.
-
Shame about the financial loss but sometimes knowledge comes at a price and experience is what you get just after you needed it.
Hopefully the new Fazer does it for you. :)
-
Yeah some things are really meant to be.
Lets just hope for the black one.. and yes, buy a larger shed. :rollin
-
Notice this bike has just popped up on eBay sporting a new black paint job and 1 mile more on the clock than when I sold it.
-
Hello
I have one question. I just bought Fazer 1000, year 2003 and I have some problems. It starts ok, and it runs on idle with no problem when the engine is warm (if it is cold I have tu use choke).
But the real problem coms when I rew the bike. If I twist the throttle right away, in idle or artound 2000rpm, the engine looses the power, and if I wouldnt release the throttle the engine would shut down :'(
But if I accelerate slow, everything is ok. And also above 5000rpm everything works ok.
Does anyone have a solution to this problem?
I didnt have thet kind of problems on my old fazer 600 also year 2003.
Regards,
Rok
-
Hi and welcome. :)
Where did you buy the bike ... from a dealer or private seller? Either way, if this has been happening since you took delivery, it's their responsibility to fix it or give you a refund.
It sounds like it could be a fuel supply issue but we need more information. What's the mileage? Any mods to carbs or exhaust? Has it been standing around for a while or was it ridden regularly?
Have you tried applying a little choke when the motor is warm to see if it revs without trying to stall then?
-
Hello
I bought it from one person, and he will not refound it. That is how it goes in our country
The bike has been standing for qoute some time. Lets say from august . Apart from my drive home, that was some 30km.
I was very angry that I haven`t tell him to lower the price, but I just liket the bike to much
Last year he was driving and he made some 5000km.
The bike has 50000km, and It looks as new. The exhaust ist GPR.
I will try to make one video and upload it that you will be able to see.
Is it possible that it is just because the engine is still cold and that is the reason why?
-
Perhaps I have misunderstood your first post.
Are you saying that the motor will not rev cleanly just after starting, when it is still cold?
Did the bike ride fine on your way home after buying it?
-
It sounds like it wont rev when it's cold but OK when hot. Sounds pretty normal to me. Start the bike with the choke, let it warm up a little and slowly close the choke until it idles fine.
-
I understand that when the bike is cold, I can not rew it right away :)
but when it runs for lets say one minute it should be warm enough...and when I try to rew it quick, the engine doesnt want that. It looses power around 3000rpm. And if I go smooth there is no problem, I can go to red field.
I will make ma movie today and try to show it.
-
How long is it before the problem goes away?
-
but when it runs for lets say one minute it should be warm enough...and when I try to rew it quick, the engine doesnt want that.
Nothing unusual in that, I think. You need to give the motor more time to warm up before snapping the throttle open hard.
-
:agree
The engine takes a little longer than a minute even in warm weather to heat up enough to ride cleanly at low revs, more like 5 minutes