Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: matt7chunk on 05 May 2016, 06:55:57 pm
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whats a good chain lube that wont make my chain look dirty all the time ? wet/dry? what do you guys use
:) summers coming
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I use a ton of Fuchs stuff that I got from somewhere. Works fine for me, just spray it on and wipe the excess off and leave it to dry a bit.
Got a scottoiler as well but I don't use it.
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Tutoro auto oiler on the CBF and muc off endurance chain lube on the Fazer & Tiger
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Engine oil. Brush it on with a small paint brush, leave over night with a piece of card under the chain run to catch any drips, wipe off the excess in the morning.
You'll still get some that flings off but you do with most lubes, best thing about oil though is you can easily wipe it off unlike some chain lubes which stick to everything other than your chain
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The owners manual states you should use engine oil..
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When I bought my bike, it appeared that the previous owner had been filling the scottoiler with used engine oil.
The problem being when the Scottoiler ran dry, the chain quickly followed. Because engine oil is quite thin it doesn't seem to stay on the chain. After just 500 miles with a 'dry' chain it eventually stretched enough to jump a tooth on the front sprocket!! Snapping my clutch push rod.
Now I use chain wax or dry lubes, believing that they stay on the chain longer. I also lube every 300miles or so, mainly to prevent the chain rusting as my bike lives outside.
Just my two cents. I would certainly be interested to hear other people's 'long interval' lubing options!
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Me use this --- it goes on liquid and then sets, the first few miles still fling off but only very small blobs that I see under the side panel that dont add up to much. But there are those who say that this type just lets grit and dirt stick to it, I like it cause it looks nice :D
(http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=17962.0;attach=20345;image)
(http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=17962.0;attach=20347;image)
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lube it every tank or at least every other tank with whatever you're having yourself. any longer than that and you're wearing the chain. engine oil works fine. if you can't keep a chain in good condition using engine oil get a shaft drive
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Me use this --- it goes on liquid and then sets, the first few miles still fling off but only very small blobs that I see under the side panel that dont add up to much. But there are those who say that this type just lets grit and dirt stick to it, I like it cause it looks nice :D
([url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=17962.0;attach=20345;image[/url])
([url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=17962.0;attach=20347;image[/url])
Joking aside, until you put your chain through shitty conditions during the winter months when there's salt on the roads then it doesn't really count what you put on your chain because it's simply not a true guide.
No offence matey, i'm just being realistic.
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Old engine oil saved from either a car or bike oil change with an old paint brush for application, after every ride I give it another coat. Only problem is it's very thin and just falls off the chain if you ride in heavy rain, but for dry weather riding it's perfect, and costs nowt! :)
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Joking aside, until you put your chain through shitty conditions during the winter months when there's salt on the roads then it doesn't really count what you put on your chain because it's simply not a true guide.
No offence matey, i'm just being realistic.
Yes you are quite right one should add that caveat to what I say.
As a lube and non fling I think it is still good and I doubt would get washed off easily
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I was commuting 70 miles a day through winter in all weather (inc snow) and lubed the chain everyday using engine oil, by spring the chain was still as new
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the oil cleans and lubes at the same time. the spray lube attracts dirt and grit. all the road crap sticks to it and grinds away at the chain. if you have the patience to apply oil I think it does a much better job and there's litres of it sitting there. someday I'll invest in an oiler and hook up a litre bottle to it and fill it once a year :lol what happened to the old way of doing it where the chain ran in a casing and was constantly oiled?
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Old engine oil saved from either a car or bike oil change with an old paint brush for application, after every ride I give it another coat. Only problem is it's very thin and just falls off the chain if you ride in heavy rain, but for dry weather riding it's perfect, and costs nowt! :)
See, i don't get that at all.
Old oil will have fine metal particles in it, and as you say will be thin because it's lost it's properties.
If you're gonna use engine oil, at least use new stuff.
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Old engine oil saved from either a car or bike oil change with an old paint brush for application, after every ride I give it another coat. Only problem is it's very thin and just falls off the chain if you ride in heavy rain, but for dry weather riding it's perfect, and costs nowt! :)
See, i don't get that at all.
Old oil will have fine metal particles in it, and as you say will be thin because it's lost it's properties.
If you're gonna use engine oil, at least use new stuff.
I'd agree it's better to use new stuff but you're only protecting a drive chain from the weather for a few days. It's not going into the engine and being put under the force and stress of the inside of an engine so for me the old stuff does the job fine. People who say oh it flings off and doesn't work probably haven't tried it or they have tried it once and that's it. Use it regularly and it works fine
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Back in the 80s I had a round tin of solid wax oil that you put on a camping stove and melted it and then chucked your chain in - wiggle it about a bit and then take out to dry. It was a 125 with a split pin link so was easy to get off
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Scottoiler is as good (and as practical) as it gets. Next best thing is any chain spray with silicone.
Scottoiler is also the cheapest in the long run: less chain and sprockets wear, triple lifetime at least, plus cheaper than cans of chain spray lube.
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I don't buy the metal in old engine oil theory, if, as its suggested, the oil is full of metal particles it would destroy your engine in seconds, sure its thiner but still far better at lubrication than most chain lubes.
I've also used a rag soaked in oil in the past, wrapped the rag around the chain and slowly rotated the wheel, I found that not only covered the chain in oil but also wiped off any dirt and dust that had built up on the links. Bloody messy though lol
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I don't buy the metal in old engine oil theory, if, as its suggested, the oil is full of metal particles it would destroy your engine in seconds, sure its thiner but still far better at lubrication than most chain lubes.
I've also used a rag soaked in oil in the past, wrapped the rag around the chain and slowly rotated the wheel, I found that not only covered the chain in oil but also wiped off any dirt and dust that had built up on the links. Bloody messy though lol
Engine oil has several functions: lube, gather and neutralize combustion tar, acids that build up etc. Used engine oil has degraded lubrication qualities and is full of dirt and acid. That's why it is changed. Good for painting wooden fences, but not good for lubricating anything anymore.
New thick engine oil (20w60), or new SAE90 oil is good, but I'd never recommend using used engine oil.
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I don't buy the metal in old engine oil theory, if, as its suggested, the oil is full of metal particles it would destroy your engine in seconds, sure its thiner but still far better at lubrication than most chain lubes.
I've also used a rag soaked in oil in the past, wrapped the rag around the chain and slowly rotated the wheel, I found that not only covered the chain in oil but also wiped off any dirt and dust that had built up on the links. Bloody messy though lol
The oil filter is s'posed to drag out and contain the metal particles, and i've heard of people sticking magnets on their filter to assist it as well.
If you have metal on metal at high speeds there has to be some release of particles, it won't be anything major but they will exist.
I might give it a try when i next clean the chain, but will do so with nice fresh oil with intact properties, it just makes more sense to me.
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I don't buy the metal in old engine oil theory, if, as its suggested, the oil is full of metal particles it would destroy your engine in seconds, sure its thiner but still far better at lubrication than most chain lubes.
I've also used a rag soaked in oil in the past, wrapped the rag around the chain and slowly rotated the wheel, I found that not only covered the chain in oil but also wiped off any dirt and dust that had built up on the links. Bloody messy though lol
Engine oil has several functions: lube, gather and neutralize combustion tar, acids that build up etc. Used engine oil has degraded lubrication qualities and is full of dirt and acid. That's why it is changed. Good for painting wooden fences, but not good for lubricating anything anymore.
New thick engine oil (20w60), or new SAE90 oil is good, but I'd never recommend using used engine oil.
All correct but the fact is the oil that you drained out was protecting your engine just fine right up until you drained it. It would not be as good as fresh new oil but it was working well enough up until you drained it that the engine wasn't suffering any major wear. Right? So will it protect a drive chain for a few days? Yes of course it will. Would new gear oil be better? Yes. But does used engine oil work fine? Yes
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All correct but the fact is the oil that you drained out was protecting your engine just fine right up until you drained it. It would not be as good as fresh new oil but it was working well enough up until you drained it that the engine wasn't suffering any major wear. Right? So will it protect a drive chain for a few days? Yes of course it will. Would new gear oil be better? Yes. But does used engine oil work fine? Yes
All correct and I agree. Some people run it through a cofee filter to make it a bit cleaner and re-use it. It does come free, while a litre of new engine oil costs around 5 euros in my city.
However, I have tried using used motor oil and it is a lot messier than using new oil. So you have:
- more dirt
- less viscosity so it slips off chain more quickly
- worse lubrication
- worse corrosion inhibition and perhaps some acid as well (though if changed regularly and of decent quality oil should still be base by the time it is drained)
+ 5 euro per litre saving
+ more eco if you would otherwise throw old oil away
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All correct but the fact is the oil that you drained out was protecting your engine just fine right up until you drained it. It would not be as good as fresh new oil but it was working well enough up until you drained it that the engine wasn't suffering any major wear. Right? So will it protect a drive chain for a few days? Yes of course it will. Would new gear oil be better? Yes. But does used engine oil work fine? Yes
All correct and I agree. Some people run it through a cofee filter to make it a bit cleaner and re-use it. It does come free, while a litre of new engine oil costs around 5 euros in my city.
However, I have tried using used motor oil and it is a lot messier than using new oil. So you have:
- more dirt
- less viscosity so it slips off chain more quickly
- worse lubrication
- worse corrosion inhibition and perhaps some acid as well (though if changed regularly and of decent quality oil should still be base by the time it is drained)
+ 5 euro per litre saving
+ more eco if you would otherwise throw old oil away
Of course it has more dirt than new stuff and worse everything but it's just lubing a drive chain so the question is, is it good enough to to do that? I think it is as long as you apply it regularly. For me the benefits are it's a way to use a waste product. As far as I can tell it keeps my chain in tip top condition. I've always got a supply of it so I don't have to think about it or go to the shop when it runs out. I get a good look at the chain every few days so there's no chance of it hoping off the sprocket or anything mad going on. It saves a small bit of money. It's just a personal choice. I can see why people use the spray cans but after using them for a while I wouldn't bother with them
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Any way arn't the chains supposed to have oil/grease sealed in them with o rings and stuff
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As I understand it chains need lube around the O-ring to stop it failing, letting the grease seep out
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I've just done an oil change, the old stuff looks ok didn't really need to change it , I will be using this on the chain for a while now, cheers for the info guys
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
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I put down a bit of cardboard under the chain, put a bit of oil on an old tooth brush and go over the chain to clean it, then wipe it off, then apply a bit more with the toothbrush or a rag to lube it. Go for a short spin and then wipe away the excess spray. It should be good for a tank of petrol. Cleaning it isn't always necessary, you can get away with just adding a bit more on sometimes
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Why not all bikes belt drive ?
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Why not all bikes belt drive ?
If you've seen how quickly a belt can be destroyed by a stone you'd never want a belt drive. Full enclosures aren't exactly stylish so manufactures leave them open (Harley)
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https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwiw3fKNksjMAhUDLsAKHUbyCBAQFgghMAE&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.horizonsunlimited.com%2Fforwood%2Fstories2.shtml&usg=AFQjCNF2pbFrwnGQ7FSZzp_AbLiK_Knjlw&sig2=dZSZs2dLBG0X25bJV0Yreg&bvm=bv.121421273,d.ZGg (https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwiw3fKNksjMAhUDLsAKHUbyCBAQFgghMAE&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.horizonsunlimited.com%2Fforwood%2Fstories2.shtml&usg=AFQjCNF2pbFrwnGQ7FSZzp_AbLiK_Knjlw&sig2=dZSZs2dLBG0X25bJV0Yreg&bvm=bv.121421273,d.ZGg)
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scott oiler on my old girl :) :)
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scott oiler as well. Hard to beat.
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I use this:
(http://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/product_images/wurth_hp_performance-dry-chain-lube_1.jpg)
I lube it once a week and clean the chain and lube it about once a month or two.
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Engine oil about every 200 miles. I use cheap and cheerful stuff from the car boot sale. About £12 for a gallon. It never runs out.
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Had a search to find a better post to add to but couldn't find anything better so adding to this old one but all relevant.
Just been cleaning my chain with paraffin and to aid the drying I use a can of air and blast out between the links but it soon freezes up and slows down.
Question -------- could I use brake cleaner to finish off with as that blasts out of the tin and would do a final clean and also push out the paraffin and then very quickly evaporate unlike paraffin that does not quickly evaporate. I am thinking that if it is safe for brake rubber then its safe for o -rings ?
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pictures, don't panic its not solvent in the bottle -its paraffin
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Brake cleaner is brilliant stuff, but i don't see why you'd want to totally degrease a chain.
Cleaning is one thing, but completely degreasing it wouldn't be my choice.
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Brake cleaner is brilliant stuff, but i don't see why you'd want to totally degrease a chain.
Cleaning is one thing, but completely degreasing it wouldn't be my choice.
Yes that is a thought,but as I am a bit OCD I think all the grease is off or most of it and i was more looking at removing the left over paraffin so I can get new lube in there but with paraffin there its going to be fighting that.
I use Putulene Chain Tech that comes out thin and gets everywhere and then gos hard and is nice and white.
I will have a look tomorrow to see if the paraffin has had a chance to dry up between the plates and rollers, so we think brake cleaners is safe to use do we?.
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Brake cleaner is defo safe for your chain will not effect the o rings.
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Back in the 80s I had a round tin of solid wax oil that you put on a camping stove and melted it and then chucked your chain in - wiggle it about a bit and then take out to dry. It was a 125 with a split pin link so was easy to get off
Ahhhh! The old tin of 'Link-Life' graphite grease.
Pop in on the stove after washing the chain in Petrol or Paraffin, dry the chain and roll the chain up into a circle and lay it on top of the Link-Life and watch it slowly sink as the stuff warmed up.
Grab the tin with two pairs of mole grips and get the f--k outa there before you mum started screaming what the hell are you doing in there your stinking the place out.
Hang the chain over the nail in the fence post and allow the Link-Life to drip back into the tin, ready for the next gauntlet run in your mums kitchen.
You reminded me of it Sharpie with your comment.
It was good stuff and set on the chain as it cooled down.
Going to look on eGay to see if you can still get the stuff.
The chain lube i use is either Motul or Motorex.
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Back in the 80s I had a round tin of solid wax oil that you put on a camping stove and melted it and then chucked your chain in - wiggle it about a bit and then take out to dry. It was a 125 with a split pin link so was easy to get off
Ahhhh! The old tin of 'Link-Life' graphite grease.
Pop in on the stove after washing the chain in Petrol or Paraffin, dry the chain and roll the chain up into a circle and lay it on top of the Link-Life and watch it slowly sink as the stuff warmed up.
Grab the tin with two pairs of mole grips and get the f--k outa there before you mum started screaming what the hell are you doing in there your stinking the place out.
Hang the chain over the nail in the fence post and allow the Link-Life to drip back into the tin, ready for the next gauntlet run in your mums kitchen.
You reminded me of it Sharpie with your comment.
It was good stuff and set on the chain as it cooled down.
Going to look on eGay to see if you can still get the stuff.
The chain lube i use is either Motul or Motorex.
You got spot on !!!!!!!!!!!!
Wouldn't think it good on today's o ring chains - all that heat.
Thanks for the input Darrsi and Bandit on the brake cleaner question
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No sign of Link-Life on eGay, as you say Sharpie the heat would wreak havoc with the O or X ring chains of today.
Honest opinions from 'Scott Oiler' owners are they really messy?
I am anal when it comes to keeping my bike clean, and oil being slung all over the back wheel would be my worse nightmare.
Motul Chain Lube is great and does not fling off everywhere. its less than a tenner a can.
Scott Oilers are about £85 to buy, so not to expensive :rolleyes but the bikes I have seen them fitted to always seem to be shitty looking with cable ties hold pipes along the swing arm and dirty oil on the wall of the rear tyre and just about everywhere else at the arse end. :'(
I don't think it's for me (I'm talking myself out of it as I type) I only ride in good weather and then only cover about 2.5K a year that is about a cans worth of Motul.
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why would you want to use any kind of engine oil that has a high fling rate
half of what is involved in chain lube is its stiction so it doesnt just fling away on your first ride
good tin of chain lube about £10 and is made for the job and has no acidic property's like the old oil technique
really old motorbike chains in a hot oil can loosen them off but we dont do that for everyday chains.
give your chain a proper clean then a spray (another good point) then if excess give them a wipe on the surface
as for which is best - than is personal preferance as everyday riders will use more so want to spend less and do it more
i just did a video about a useless chain oiling tool and said scott oilers have there places but really are not needed so took mine off
proper cleaning and lubing is the best way to get the most life from your chain - there are no shortcuts - there was but we have already taken them
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Yeah bollocks to it, I'm sticking with the clean rear wheel approach, without oil over the side wall of the rear tyre, or cable ties on show.
Oh! by the way Motul do a chain cleaning spray as well, I have a tin in the shed so I think I will give the chain a good service tomorrow.
I have put the old girl into hibernation about 3 times already this winter but keep waking her up to do more things to her, I am talking about the FZS not the Mrs, she can stay asleep.
LOL :rollin :rollin :rollin
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Tommy when you enter that shed the mrs ardin aint sleeping - she gets out her other lubrication device lol
after this weekends dirty ride (not mrs ardin) i too have a session of cleaning the bike and lubing up the spinning thing (that IS mrs ardin)
good old lubricant will do it fine (wont make a joke here)
taking your time to look after a bike is all part and parcel of ownership
similar to being married to mrs ardin
(tommy - i wrote this hoping you would see the funny side if she reads this i hope she thinks i am your alter ego and it is all you)
(foc-u ban is expected in the inbox within 24hours)
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My twopenny's worth...
I was given a can of Chain Cleaner recently. It does a wonderful job of cleaning the chain. It is also Brake Cleaner with a different label on the tin - smells just the same and evaporates just the same... It IS the same.
Scottoiler - I bought one many years ago and I have fitted it to a number of bikes over the years. I have kept fitting it mainly because I paid a fair bit for it and I'm gonna use it... BUT... I've not fitted it to my Fazer. WHY? Cos it's damn messy. It's difficult to get the flow rate right. You need one setting for short rides and then you need to remember to turn it down for long rides or your rear wheel will be covered in oil. It also starts to coat your panniers/rear plastics/the missus' gloves. It's a ball ache having to clean it off all the time.
Link Life is still available in my local speedway shop - That's cos the speedway boys use chains that don't have O ring seals. If you use Link Life on a chain with O rings you soon won't have any O rings as they will melt. Also, if you spill some on the kitchen floor cos your mum surprised you while trying to sneak out the door you will get the thrashing of your life followed by many hours scrubbing the kitchen tiles - You do not need to ask how I know this.
Old/new engine oil. I just haven't got the time for faffing around like this. I used to use old engine oil as it saved me some money but I just can't be bothered with it.
I REALLY MISS THE SHAFT DRIVE ON MY OLD FJR1300.
I am currently using spray cans of chain lube, it seems to work.
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I've always mainly used the Wurth chain lube for years now, simply found it better than any others i've tried, but after a heavy storm one day, and an oil change, i thought i'd use a paint brush with some oil to lube the chain thinking it would be great at really getting into the links.
I wiped off the excess and over the coming months i did it a few more times when the chain was still hot and even put the bike on the centre stand to spin off any oil that might drip when i put the bike away.
The result over the last 6 months, or maybe more, is that there is oil on the floor everywhere.
At home on the garage floor, outside of the garage where i normally oil the chain, outside work where i park the bike, then eventually it made its way onto the carpet indoors at home.
In short, it does the chain good without a doubt, but it's unavoidably bloody messy, so i'm back onto using the Wurth again and have already noticed how much cleaner my rear wheel is.
The bike's not covered during the day, and i gave up faffing about with a rain cover when it's pissing down and windy years ago, so the chain stays as lubed as needed to try and prolong the life of it and avoid sticking links as much as i can, although using the bike at least 5 days a week all year round probably helps too.
As for cleaning, i've always used WD40 on my X ring chain, with a proper chain brush which has always served me well and does the job, then i'll take the bike for a quick spin to warm the chain up before carefully lubing with the Wurth spray again. Always better to lube the chain when it's warm for best results.
The reason i use WD40 is because as mentioned before i don't want to totally degrease the chain, that would mean that when lubing again if you miss any small spot then it can be the start of a sticking link.
WD40 cleans the shit off a chain quite nicely but it is also deep lubing the chain at the same time, plus, as the initials say, displaces water which is all good.
After a good wipe down with a rag the Wurth spray will then follow afterwards.
Apparently WD40 is not a good idea to use with O ring chains though, but that is a can of worms i'm not interested in as i don't ever use them.
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still in garage after cleaning bike and giving the chain a clean -
hit it with pressure washer (divided opinions on such things)
gave it a spray with brake cleaner
sprayed again with jet wash (it was still out)
wd40 on chain
wheeled into garage as it was starting to rain then had a cuppa
coated nicely in rock oil chain lube (must have got it from ebay)
will wipe off the excess later before i go out to minimise fling
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Tommy when you enter that shed the mrs ardin aint sleeping - she gets out her other lubrication device lol
after this weekends dirty ride (not mrs ardin) i too have a session of cleaning the bike and lubing up the spinning thing (that IS mrs ardin)
good old lubricant will do it fine (wont make a joke here)
taking your time to look after a bike is all part and parcel of ownership
similar to being married to mrs ardin
(tommy - i wrote this hoping you would see the funny side if she reads this i hope she thinks i am your alter ego and it is all you)
(foc-u ban is expected in the inbox within 24hours)
Yeah maybe she has one of those Twot Oilers I have often wonder what the cable ties on her thigh were for and the mess all over her rear end.
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Tommy when you enter that shed the mrs ardin aint sleeping - she gets out her other lubrication device lol
after this weekends dirty ride (not mrs ardin) i too have a session of cleaning the bike and lubing up the spinning thing (that IS mrs ardin)
good old lubricant will do it fine (wont make a joke here)
taking your time to look after a bike is all part and parcel of ownership
similar to being married to mrs ardin
(tommy - i wrote this hoping you would see the funny side if she reads this i hope she thinks i am your alter ego and it is all you)
(foc-u ban is expected in the inbox within 24hours)
Yeah maybe she has one of those Twot Oilers I have often wonder what the cable ties on her thigh were for and the mess all over her rear end.
:lol :lol :lol :lol :lol :lol :lol
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I am anal when it comes to keeping my bike clean, and oil being slung all over the back wheel would be my worse nightmare.
Motul Chain Lube is great and does not fling off everywhere. its less than a tenner a can.
Scott Oilers are about £85 to buy, so not to expensive :rolleyes but the bikes I have seen them fitted to always seem to be shitty looking with cable ties hold pipes along the swing arm and dirty oil on the wall of the rear tyre and just about everywhere else at the arse end. :'(
I don't think it's for me (I'm talking myself out of it as I type) I only ride in good weather and then only cover about 2.5K a year that is about a cans worth of Motul.
This is also my feelings on scotoiler
Going to have a look and see if the paraffin has gone - if not then a quick blast of brake cleaner then lube.
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It's true, if you don't ride much then there's no need to worry about chain longevity. For me though chain and sprocket life is important, with an oiling system my chain lasts about 30000 miles (about 14 months), the fling factor isn't a problem for me as the bike gets washed every week anyway.
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Scottoiler all the way using Scottoil. 2 for £10 at bike shows, and if the oiler is set up correctly, last a long long time.
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It's true, if you don't ride much then there's no need to worry about chain longevity. For me though chain and sprocket life is important, with an oiling system my chain lasts about 30000 miles (about 14 months), the fling factor isn't a problem for me as the bike gets washed every week anyway.
I agree about it not being a real concern with very low mileages being done, and, to be honest I am not relying on the bike as everyday transport. (Summer Fun)
I clean my bike each time i ride it unless I'm going out on it again the following day, I do it to get the dead bodies off the screen, headlamps and fairing, the baked flies and bugs off the exhaust headers and radiator guard.
Don't say it! I know get a foccing life, but as Darrsi said in an earlier comment, half the fun of owning a bike is the fettling with it.
Well it is for me anyhoo :rolleyes
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I agree about it not being a real concern with very low mileages being done, and, to be honest I am not relying on the bike as everyday transport. (Summer Fun)
I clean my bike each time i ride it unless I'm going out on it again the following day, I do it to get the dead bodies off the screen, headlamps and fairing, the baked flies and bugs off the exhaust headers and radiator guard.
Don't say it! I know get a foccing life, but as Darrsi said in an earlier comment, half the fun of owning a bike is the fettling with it.
Well it is for me anyhoo :rolleyes
not just fettling by the sounds of it, replacing fairings and dodging police because of all the people you have riden into hard enough for there lifeless bodys to stick to the fairing
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Update.
Blasted out the last of paraffin remains, re lubed one link and roller at a time watched it bubble and run into the rollers. adjusted the slack and re torqued up and took it out for a test ride stopped after 3 miles to check the wheel was still on and went on my way for another 10 miles. Got back and added some more lube on to a warm chain.
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Here is the fling from fresh allied lube which reduces after a couple of rides as it settles in. The folded up centre stand gets the most of it I think really that what comes off is just the amount I over applied in the first place.
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For those with OCD, :) I wrote two articles. One on (proper) chain lubrication (touching the wear phenomena) and one on various types of lubricants. It's meant for bicycle chains primarily, but the basic principles are the same. Links:
http://www.bike.bikegremlin.com/2015/06/23/best-bicycle-chain-lube/ (http://www.bike.bikegremlin.com/2015/06/23/best-bicycle-chain-lube/)
http://www.bike.bikegremlin.com/2017/03/30/bicycle-chain-lubricants-explained/ (http://www.bike.bikegremlin.com/2017/03/30/bicycle-chain-lubricants-explained/)
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I found that chain wax doesn't hold as much crud and dirt as the sticky, stringy aerosol lubes.
Tried most types on and off road all through the year and stuck with the wax. Seems to be much like the stuff on brand new chains.
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Chain looks a bit taut there Sharpie, you got enough play in it?
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Chain looks a bit taut there Sharpie, you got enough play in it?
Yep - think so, 30-40mm and just touches the underside of the rubber guide when pushed up perhaps its the angle.
Think it was a little too slack before - see here, I then pulled the wheel back by 1.4mm
(http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=20030.0;attach=31006;image)
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Chain looks a bit taut there Sharpie, you got enough play in it?
Yep - think so, 30-40mm and just touches the underside of the rubber guide when pushed up perhaps its the angle.
Think it was a little too slack before - see here, I then pulled the wheel back by 1.4mm
([url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=20030.0;attach=31006;image[/url])
I must admit i took 'unfazed' tip of touching the chain guard with the chain when i refitted my wheel last week and it is a bit tighter than i normally have it, but it's not making any unpleasant noises and there's no feeling at all through the footpeg either so it must be spot on.
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Got me thinking and questioning myself now, there is 1 tighter spot that still touches the guide but needs pushing up a bit harder than the rest. Don't feel or hear anything out of the ordinary but sometimes it would be handy if I just had someone who can give it a wiggle and a second opinion.
I measured it before I adjusted it and it was all a good 40mm slack, and easily able to slap it on to the bottom guide and beyond at a measured 40mm.
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Got me thinking and questioning myself now, there is 1 tighter spot that still touches the guide but needs pushing up a bit harder than the rest. Don't feel or hear anything out of the ordinary but sometimes it would be handy if I just had someone who can give it a wiggle and a second opinion.
I measured it before I adjusted it and it was all a good 40mm slack, and easily able to slap it on to the bottom guide and beyond at a measured 40mm.
If it was way too tight it would grind a bit but you'd hear and feel it, same as if too loose you'd notice excess chain slap.
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Got me thinking and questioning myself now, there is 1 tighter spot that still touches the guide but needs pushing up a bit harder than the rest. Don't feel or hear anything out of the ordinary but sometimes it would be handy if I just had someone who can give it a wiggle and a second opinion.
I measured it before I adjusted it and it was all a good 40mm slack, and easily able to slap it on to the bottom guide and beyond at a measured 40mm.
If it was way too tight it would grind a bit but you'd hear and feel it, same as if too loose you'd notice excess chain slap.
Didn't notice any problems before the adjustment, it just felt a little slack -sloppy when prodding.
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I use a dry lube in the summer and a heavy application of chainsaw oil after every trip in the winter - it does fling off but in the winter its more about protecting the chain than worrying about the mess. Chainsaw oil is cheap enough to apply every time you ride.
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I agree about it not being a real concern with very low mileages being done, and, to be honest I am not relying on the bike as everyday transport. (Summer Fun)
I clean my bike each time i ride it unless I'm going out on it again the following day, I do it to get the dead bodies off the screen, headlamps and fairing, the baked flies and bugs off the exhaust headers and radiator guard.
Don't say it! I know get a foccing life, but as Darrsi said in an earlier comment, half the fun of owning a bike is the fettling with it.
Well it is for me anyhoo :rolleyes
not just fettling by the sounds of it, replacing fairings and dodging police because of all the people you have ridden into hard enough for there lifeless bodys to stick to the fairing
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The general consensus seems to be with the chain in the tightest spot of the chain run the chain should be able to touch the underside of the swinging arm rubber guide without a lot of force.
Bearing in mind if you lube the chain with one of the spray lubes that tends to set a bit then adjust the chain so that the tension is as above, one short ride and the chain will be slacker because of the lube being squished out of the numerous links, so I guess adjust the chain correctly then lube would probably be the best way.
But we all know what opinions are like :lol
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Anything Sharpie can do, I can do almost as well :rolleyes
Chain guard off, chain thoroughly cleaned with Motul Chain Cleaner and a worm chain brush, makes fairly easy work of it.
Amazing the amount of crud that get washed off with the chain cleaner and worm scrubbing brush.
Blasted it off with compressed air after drying it with a rag, leaving it for a while to completely evaporate the cleaner before lubing it with Motul C2.
Chain adjusted so that the chain just touches the lower swinging arm guide when pushed up in the tightest point on the chain run.
Apparently one of the best test to find out how much your chain has worn is to clean the chain and adjust the chain correctly then grab the chain at the centre off the rear sprocket and pull the chain out directly backwards away from the front sprocket if you can push a pencil (5 to 6mm) between the chain and the dell in the rear sprocket your chain has just about reached the end of its life.
Mine pulls out less than 2mm, so all good for a year or three.
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Had a nice surprise from eGay they have informed me that I qualify for a £10 cash back on my last purchase.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160983681079 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160983681079)
I am now thinking of buying a thousand and selling them on at half price, every one I buy I am 30 pence better off plus the £4.85p I get for each half price can I sell.
Potentially making £9700.00, that should help out over Chrimbo.
Thank you eGay
Damn me and my maths it actually works out at only £5,150. :rolleyes
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Can anyone tell me the standard length (Number of links) of the FZS 600 2003. seen some on eGay at a reasonable price so thought I might get one and stick it in the shed for future use. I have a new rear and front sprocket in the man drawer in the shed plus a spare big upgrade front sprocket nut and tab washer, I also have a little one but that's something else. :lol .
My front sprocket 16 tooth, I believe it is one tooth up on standard, unless you know better. :thumbup
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yeah im sure its a 15t oem so adding one to the front is like taking 3 from the rear (the general consensus) so you will loose a bit of acceleration and gain top end speed - or more likely just reduce rpm for long motorway runs
i think its about 110 links but that is a number that just popped into my head so could be out
(i used to have a second set of sprockets just for my long runs on my old bike and it can make a suprising difference for motorway miles but im talking 300+ miles each way as cumbria to london and norfolk was very common for work)
edit - man drawer in shed????, isnt a shed a man zone and might get a womans drawer??