More EXUP Woes!

[Deswilson]

Hi Folks


I've only had my 1000 for a year now,  and I was going to be getting stuck into the EXUP valve over the winter to make sure it was fine for this years riding.  But I ended up in hospital and had to have surgery on my back so I've been pretty immobile since the end of October and just getting back to normal now. 


I was taking my bike for an MOT yesterday and noticed the 7k revs at ignition problem,  So I asked if when doing the MOT and service they could look at the EXUP valve.  Got bike back last night and the 7k revs issue was still there. I thought I'd have a look and see if they had even bothered to look at the valve or not this morning before I phone them to complain,  and the 3 bolts on the cover had all been off recently and had grease on them so they would come off ok. I took the cover off and the cables were a bit slack, and the valve wasn't aligned correctly, so I thought I'd have a look at removing the whole thing and checking it was greased properly.


I removed the bolt from the centre of the pulley ok,  but was then unable to remove the pully.  It was stuck tight.  I could turn the pulley ok, it wasn't seized completely, just unable to remove it.  When I was trying to pry it off,  I ended up breaking off one of the forks that you use to lock it,  so as well as trying to find out how to remove the pulley,  I'll also need a new one.  Does anyone have one lying about?  or am I going to get shafted from Yamaha?


I then had a look at the cables, and one of them is frayed badly so will need a new set of cables as well.  I've checked on ebay,  and only cables I can find are a set of original oem ones,  which are going for 150 ish.  I've read on here about the venhill ones, but I'd rather not take the current ones off and send them away,  so unless I can find some decent second hand outers that I can use to get new inners,  I'm going to get fleeced for these as well.


Des

[Falcon 269]

A little slack in the cables is required ... about 1.5mm freeplay.

It's possible that it was adjusted correctly.  You need to cycle the ignition to get the valve to return to the correct position.   See Pat's Site:  http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/exupmaintenance.html

The fork isn't critical - it's just there to give you something to pin the pulley while tightening the centre bolt, and for the adjustment process.  You can do both without it.

Your 7k error code is probably due to the frayed cable not moving freely. 

I'd remove the entire valve assembly with the pulley still on the spindle.  Then, remove the pulley bolt and drift the valve out of the pulley, rather than try to lever the pulley off the spindle.  You will probably need to use a bit of emery cloth to clean up the spindles at each end.  Again, study Pat's Site for the 'how-to' on this job.

Dealers are notoriously bad at sorting out EXUP issues so you're better off sorting this yourself.

[unfazed]

http://www.wemoto.com/bikes/yamaha/fzs_1000_fazer/04-05/
 
Scroll to the Cables section and there are a set of cable for £54.95, I fitted a set and they are perfect.

Heat the pulley, they usually rust and stick in place and if that does not work soak it in diesel over night.

The pulley is about £25 to £30.

[Deswilson]

Mike


I meant to say,  the cables were very slack, and the valve was sitting in the correct position.  The valve was also a little stiff.  I managed to free it off, and then tightend the cables leaving a little slack using that link,  and the 7k fault has now cleared, but will need to replace the cables at some point soon.


I looked at the allen key bolts that you need to remove to get the valve out,  and 2 of them look as if someone has tried to get the valve out before and rounded them off,  so it may not be an easy job getting the whole valve out.  I need some new penetrating fluid and will keep soaking them over a week or so and see if I can get them off.




Unfazed:


Cheers for the wemoto link,  I'll probably end up using them unless someone has spare outers that I can just get new inners for.

[Falcon 269]

Gotcha now.  I thought the 3 bolts you'd mentioned were from the end plate, rather than the chromed cover. 

So much your dealer's efforts to resolve the problem.

[Davebo]

The Venhill kit is a universal one. You thread the cables through, attach the solderless nipple and cut to length. Viola!

[Deswilson]

Is this the link to the Venhill kit?  Are you able to thread them through the outers when they are still on the bike?  Or do you still need to take them off?  Also,  I take it you thread them through from the exhaust side and the bit you cut off is at the carb side?  Or have I got it the wrong way round?

http://www.venhill.co.uk/Cables_-_Components_&_Kits/Universal_Cable_Kits/U01-11-100_UNIVERSAL_EXUP_CABLE_REPAIR_KIT.html


Cheers


Des

[Tmation]

Looking at the kit I would have thought you would thread from the servo end, down to the exhaust, where you would fit the solderless nipple and cut the cable to length

[Deswilson]

Just as well I asked then.    2 cables now ordered.


Though you'd have thought that it would make sense for the cables to be made with a crimped end,  not a soldered end on the fixed side. 

[Falcon 269]

Make sure the strongest, most heat-resistant fitting is at the EXUP end.  If that means fitting the solderless nipple at the servo end, so be it.

[Davebo]

Yes. Feed through from the servo end and solderless nipple at the exup valve end.

I found that feeding the cable through was much easier if I pulled the outer cable out of the servo and back across to the right of the bike. Then, once it's in, thread back through to the servo.

I tried to pull through some nylon thread when removing the old inner cable but it got stuck at some bend that probably wouldn't be there if you took the top part of the outer out of the servo.

Haynes manual is next to foc-all use.

I wish they said things like 'Undo the 10mm nut on the flange' rather than 'Undo the thing (see picture)'.