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Messages - bandit
1
« on: 31 March 2020, 04:27:18 pm »
O.K then but I don't mean the piston fluid seals or dust seals as I have already stated on two different sites, these are neither & it says two?
They're wrong, I would suggest you exercise caution when looking at independent aftermarket websites/sellers they often get it wrong. The same goes for you offering advice to people on how to do things especially brakes when, by your own admission you've never done it and you clearly don't really know what your doing. [size=78%] [/size]
Well really! done plenty of brake seals thanks so don't need any advise from you.
2
« on: 31 March 2020, 04:02:07 pm »
Fazersharp, I have never split a caliper to replace seals, I can see how it is probably easier to clean out the seal grooves but I found that by holding one piston in & blowing the other out with a car foot pump hold the piston in with something other than your fingers & prepare to jump as they come out sometimes with force do that side clean grooves fit seals lube seals push piston back in & repeat on the other side. For blowing out the pistons insert a adaptor that comes with most pumps the long funnel shaped one into the caliper where the brake hose connects. Don't buy your seals from Wemoto as someone on here found they didn't fit. The adaptor required a rag around it to seal against the caliper may required to get a airtight seal. https://www.bikestop.co.uk/oxford-air-valve-adaptor-kit?gclid=EAIaIQobChMImN2rgf3E6AIVR5nVCh1NpgthEAQYAiABEgK2ifD_BwEGood luck.
3
« on: 31 March 2020, 03:45:44 pm »
Your will need two trust me the GS500E has only one rear piston so only needs one body seal the Fzs600 as you know has two opposing ones look on Yambits & Powerhouse you need two as supplied their in the pic on Powerhouse & Yambits says two required.
Matey you're confusing pistons/seals with caliper body seal, which looks like a small washer and seals the gallery between the caliper half here top right one and only one.
O.K then but I don't mean the piston fluid seals or dust seals as I have already stated on two different sites, these are neither & it says two? [size=78%]https://yambits.co.uk/fzs600-fazer-brake-caliper-body-fluid-seal-rear-p-92407.html[/size][size=78%] [/size]
4
« on: 31 March 2020, 02:16:42 pm »
Just heard back from fowlers and although they can not check right now they are confident it is 2 pistons. I cannot find the GS500 caliper split washer on fowlers as a separate item I would like to find it on fowlers so I can add it to the order if I can.
Your will need two trust me the GS500E has only one rear piston so only needs one body seal the Fzs600 as you know has two opposing ones look on Yambits & Powerhouse you need two as supplied their in the pic on Powerhouse & Yambits says two required.
5
« on: 31 March 2020, 01:33:07 pm »
If splitting the caliper body it requires 2 seals not one.
Put Powerhouse-uk Brakes into your search engine,then bike brakes drop down box,then select brake caliper seal kits then Yamaha seal kits, as said £19.99 complete kit without pistons, the two seals next to the bleed nipples are for the caliper body. You only need to red rubber grease the face of the fluid seal after fitting into bore then the lips of the dust seal before inserting the piston. Copper grease will knacker your new seals, the ceramic grease has been designed as it contains no metal fragments to effect A.B.S systems on cars etc but is a bit more better looking than copper on your caliper & does not effect the braking surface of your pads if it gets on them.
7
« on: 31 March 2020, 11:13:34 am »
Often the only way is to split the caliper and twist them out, If you split it and you've not got the seal, you run the risk of it leaking should you reuse it, it will leak.
If I need to split the caliper Is the seal just a flat washer, I can not see it on the fowlers diagram.
This is what it's like but hope the one's you get look a bit better, [size=78%]https://yambits.co.uk/fzs600-fazer-brake-caliper-body-fluid-seal-rear-p-92407.html[/size][/size]
8
« on: 25 March 2020, 08:11:02 am »
Should just pull off & push new ones on, I would very lightly apply clean engine oil to valve stem & inside oil stem seal to ease fitting of the valve.
10
« on: 19 February 2020, 08:08:01 am »
And if you have them (later bikes didn't), when you lower the fuel tank give the pipes under the bike near centre stand a good tug, they can get kinked & cause a vacuum to build up & when you go to open the fuel tank it can blow fuel into your face.
11
« on: 18 February 2020, 04:24:54 pm »
I'll take a picture. It's small in reality. Spoke to the sprayer and he said it'll fill and blend in when he sprays the scratch.
Rear peg would be great.
Can anyone advise which fixing goes where for tail fairing. The wife kindly moved the fixings into one pile thinking she was being helpful.
I think the hex bolt goes in the side. Silver screw underneath towards rear and plastic rivet underneath near petrol tank?
Your fixings question is correct.
12
« on: 17 February 2020, 12:02:29 pm »
Only slight issue is the front fairing has been sprayed completely silver on the inside and I'm not sure I like it.
Not sure what you mean there - owning a black bike my fairing is black on the inside, are other colour fairing also black on the inside then ?
98 Fazer in red is black inside fairing also.
13
« on: 05 February 2020, 01:10:34 pm »
14
« on: 04 February 2020, 09:45:52 pm »
The oil level is checked with the bike on the centre stand on level ground,start bike & let it idle for a few minutes turn engine off & wait a few minutes then check the level in the sight which should be between the two pips at side of sight glass if you don't see clear level it's overfilled at 2000 miles the sight glass should be clear to see level. When refilling slowly add oil to the full pip on the sight glass put oil filler back in & run engine again for a one minute then switch off wait a few minutes again & check level top up oil to top level & your done.
Wondering if the 2000 miles part is actually the problem, the bike has been sitting still for long periods of time, possibly with very old oil in it, gunking things up in the process? It might need properly flushing out.
Yes that's what I was thinking darrsi, gummed up sensor.
15
« on: 04 February 2020, 09:22:59 pm »
The oil level is checked with the bike on the centre stand on level ground,start bike & let it idle for a few minutes turn engine off & wait a few minutes then check the level in the sight which should be between the two pips at side of sight glass if you don't see clear level it's overfilled at 2000 miles the sight glass should be clear to see level. When refilling slowly add oil to the full pip on the sight glass put oil filler back in & run engine again for a one minute then switch off wait a few minutes again & check level top up oil to top level & your done.
Run the engine until warm before draining your oil that way most of the old oil will come out leave the oil to drain for a while before refitting drain plug & washer, do drain plug up snugly don't over tighten.
16
« on: 03 February 2020, 09:25:40 pm »
Ok i'll get them out later and send photos and you can have a butchers
A replica can be bought here as a perfect secondhand one might be hard to find if all fails,
Have you managed to dig them out yet?
A replica can be bought here if all fails, a perfect one might be hard to find. https://www.wemoto.com/basket
17
« on: 28 January 2020, 09:11:23 pm »
No unfortunately the fittings are different.
19
« on: 25 January 2020, 09:46:48 am »
Both pipes connect to the thermostat housing, does the water in the airbox contain coolant.
20
« on: 19 January 2020, 01:24:48 pm »
If water gets into the plug caps where the lead screws into it check for a good seal at the rubber boots, it could take a while to dry out, don't forget water can also lay in the plug wells especially if left on the sidestand, make sure the drain holes in the cylinder head are clear so water can escape out the little hole on each side of the cylinder head. Don't think it's a duff sparkplug as it ran o.k in the end but if it happens again changing plugs might help.
21
« on: 19 January 2020, 12:29:23 pm »
Sounds like a misfire to me probably caused by damp as you said not running bike after washing it.
22
« on: 31 December 2019, 08:00:07 pm »
As they sell a cover for the terminal then it will have the lock tab.
23
« on: 29 December 2019, 09:58:08 pm »
Double check it's a 4 mm connector you require & not a 2.8 mm.
24
« on: 11 December 2019, 08:46:27 am »
To get them adjusted correctly a bike mot garage would be your best bet. If you have a Haynes manual it is incorrect, the vertical adjustments is the two outer screws on the back of light the two inner screws are for horizontal adjustments & not as stated in Haynes.
25
« on: 09 December 2019, 08:03:58 pm »
Cowling stay M8 bolt 33NM
Cowling bracket M6 bolt 7NM
Hope that helps.
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