Date: 27-04-24  Time: 12:24 pm

Recent Posts

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71
The Laboratory ! / test pics
« Last post by chaz46 on 10 April 2024, 03:09:31 pm »
Fazer, R1, laverda 750 , Z750
72
General / Re: wiring guru needed
« Last post by chaz46 on 10 April 2024, 02:50:20 pm »
sorry for the delay, got a new puppy and looking after her.
both are the the 5 pin relays 12v 30/40A
Ive updated the drawing with numbers, the middle pins are not used
73
For Sale & Wanted / Wanted: Front engine mount bolts
« Last post by Greefy67 on 09 April 2024, 02:04:22 pm »
Bit of a long shot.
I'm currently stripping my boxeye down to component parts before I rebuild it all pretty.
But it has the biggest crash bungs I've ever seen.
The look made specifically for the bike as they have shaped mount plates, which is nice.
But the bolts holding them on are far to long without the bungs fitted.
so they foul the oil filter.
Anyone got some kicking about?

74
General / Re: Whoever posts last is best
« Last post by fazerscotty on 09 April 2024, 01:24:41 pm »
Did it go straight on using the original cable? Yes
Is this the correct part number 1WS 16340-00 ? Yes
Straight swap - I fitted a new Slinky Clutch cable at the same time. I'll find out how it goes when I've completed the rest of the job.
I managed to get one of the snapped bolts out using a tool like you described - a stud puller, but the other stud has very little room for that tool. I have cut it flush with the crankcase and I'll get the drills out at the weekend (if I'm not working). I don't like using extractors of the easy out variety, never had much success with them, so I'll probably start drilling small and build up to M5. If needed, I'll helicoil it to be sure.
I forgot to take pictures of the welded casing - and I've now covered the area with JB Weld, which needs filing down to look pretty.
75
For Sale & Wanted / Re: Blue 03 XJR1300
« Last post by b1k3rdude on 09 April 2024, 05:56:58 am »
Thats one very clean bike, good luck with the sale :-)
 
76
General / Re: Whoever posts last is best
« Last post by robbo on 08 April 2024, 08:04:04 pm »
Just read back through your carpal tunnel post, so the clutch arm is for an MT07. Did it go straight on using the original cable? Is this the correct part number 1WS 16340-00 ?
77
For Sale & Wanted / Blue 03 XJR1300
« Last post by Gnasher on 08 April 2024, 02:27:40 pm »
I've finally reached the difficult decision to let my current XJR go. I need the space to work, with 3 other bikes plus this XJR there's just not enough room, somethings got to go and it's the XJR it's just not getting used. 

I bought this bike in May 15 with 8680 on the clock it has a dealer service history until that point and from me until date. It was a bit of mess, nothing serious just covered in bling, wheel rim tape, cheap anodised nuts/bolts everywhere, gen 1 type LED indicators etc, etc, I'm sure you get the picture. It was in need of some serious TLC. I stripped the bike down to nothing other then the engine in the frame, everything was cleaned/checked/replaced, all the crap removed and fitted with OE or better, full list of work: -

Front and rear disc bolts replaced with SS.
Header studs and nuts replaced.
Calipers rebuilt.
36Y intake rubbers fitted.
4* advance plate fitted.
Air box mod.
Front forks stripped checked, uprated Hagon springs fitted, new oil.
Head races checked regreased.
Swing arm bushes/bearings checked regreased.
Shocks checked by Harris and uprated with (22% heavier) Ohlins springs.
Std indicators refitted.
Exhaust end plates removed and Klaus Goerz SSteel end plates fitted.
Delkevic SSteel collector box fitted, OE was shot.
Dual Fiamm type horns fitted.
Scott oiler fitted you can't see it unless you get your magnifier out! It's also set correctly.
Puig fly screen.
Oil cooler cover.
Polished chain guard.

The bike is fitted with a Datatool 3, it's been flawless in operation, still is. I know these like Meta get a bad rep, but in my experience (being in the trade and fitted both) I've never had a bad one, it's all about how they are fitted and keeping the battery's charged.

All OE parts, except brake lines, collector and chain guard are available and will be given to the new owner.

Current mileage 13510, mileage breakdown since I've owned it is as follows: -
May 15 - 16, 9274 = 594
May 16 - 17, 10029 = 755
May 17 - 18, 10695 = 666
May 18 - 19, 11016 = 321
May 19 - Sept 20 (covid extension) , 11552 = 536
Sept 20 - Aug 21, 12268 = 716
Aug 21 - Aug 23 (Off the road Nov 21 - Aug 23), 13488 = 1220
Aug 23 - to date 13510 = 22 last year it just went for it's MOT!

The bike has not been ridden this year as yet, bike started up last week, first prod after not being started since it's MOT and allowed to warm up.

As you can see it's not high usage, sunny day rides only, since I've owned it. It was given a full 12k service in May 22, 2 shims were replaced, front brake lines changed for Goodridge stealth lines, new SBS pads fitted, rear brake fluid changed, new Yuasa battery, fuel tap rebuilt (OE parts) including the small Oring (not OE) in the rear of the tap and new tyres (Mich Road 3) fitted at the same time. The bike is in very good condition, very clean, it's not perfect (see pictures) odd bits of rust beginning to appear on the odd fastener/bolt/screw etc, the bike is 21 years old. There is less of the normal wear and tear blemishes you'd expect for a 21 yr old bike, if you want a bike to complete nut and bolt restoration, this is it.

The bike runs and handles batter than standard, the motor is really strong again as you'd expect from a low mileage motor and it really is all about the XJR motor, if not not ridden one, you need too before you die.  All paperwork is present as is the spare key. This is a turn the key and ride off, just needs tax or use it to make it perfect, the bike is currently SORN.

It's worth in the region of £4200 ish, I'm looking for £4000 ovno, no tyre kickers please. So as not to offend if you visit and you want a test ride you need to cross my hand with 4.2K first. I'd prefer the bike went to a member before I have to ebay or other bike press. Bikes located in the Melton Mowbray area, PM me if you're interested




























Note the handle bar clock is [size=150]not[/size][/u] part of the sale







Blemishes

78
General / Re: Whoever posts last is best
« Last post by robbo on 08 April 2024, 01:19:41 pm »
All of the outer casings are now sprayed and fitted. I went to fit the sump, then realised that I still had to fit the coolant tube that goes through the sump. Following a read of someone's else's problem when they nicked an O ring, I have decided to fit the tube first, making sure that the O rings are where they should be before wrapping up the bottom end.  ;)
Well, you’ve certainly been a busy boy. I presume you drilled the stud out ok, as I was going to suggest a gadget that I’ve got. It looks like a drill chuck with flats on the outside, and gets screwed on anti clockwise. As it’s tightened with a spanner the internal jaws grip the stud and unscrew it, usually with a high success rate.
 I remember you getting an alternative clutch arm, what bike was that initially for. Good going with the tig welding. Went to night school years ago for general welding techniques. A guy there just wanted to hone his tig skills as was building a plane. Great pics, by the way :thumbup

79
General / Re: Whoever posts last is best
« Last post by Grahamm on 08 April 2024, 11:41:30 am »
Shouldn't this have been in the What did you do with your Fazer today thread? ;)
80
FZS600 Fazer / Re: Ignition coil life?
« Last post by unfazed on 08 April 2024, 11:06:07 am »
Your plug caps will  give trouble long before the Coils ever will.Thankfully the caps can be dismantled and cleaned out. The biggest issue is the carbon resistors which can go faulty taking the resistance up to Meg Ohms which cause the caps to track on the outside and can be seen clearly at night.
I like the look of the original caps and usually buy a cheap set of NGK caps and break them open and use the resistor as it has a stainless outer wire wound resistor and will usually last as long s the coils.When dismantling the originals there is a tiny brass spacer which is usually corroded and breaks if you look at it the wrong way, :D but can be discarded when using the NGK resistor. The spring should fall out but may be corroded and stuck. Inside the cap there is a flat brass part which is part of the screw which needs to be cleaned usually scratched clean with a sharpened screwdriver.  Clean the spring and reassemble. Use Dielectric grease on the boots and all will be well for years.
On the carb front it is as you said most likely the pilot jets. I gave up trying to clean them and now replace them. The reason being that the internal of the pilot jet has a web type structure which is virtually impossible to clean properly.Replace the O-rings on the float valve and main jet with Viton/FKM or FFKM ones and it will save taking them apart  for a while again. Sizes are in the download section https://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?action=downloads;sa=view;down=93
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