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Messages - kebab19
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51
« on: 25 July 2020, 03:55:16 pm »
With 754s, the control cables will all stretch ok but the standard length brake hose setup might not be quite long enough. I had one inch longer braided lines which reached the M/C fine, not sure it would have with standard length hoses.
52
« on: 24 July 2020, 08:03:24 pm »
TRX850 rear caliper mount, rear caliper, torque arm and brake hose will give you an alternative rear brake caliper setup, with pistons the same size as the FZS1000 blue spot option. Probably still works out half the price too...
53
« on: 07 July 2020, 07:28:39 pm »
From memory, 4XV forks are one of the longest sets you can get, whereas 5VY are one of the shortest?I found that even with 4XV there was a fairly noticeable front-end drop.
54
« on: 01 July 2020, 06:16:25 pm »
Apologies , bit of a mix-up on my part - the black & red anodised brake lever in the picture is actually for the Yamaha R1 & only fits the radial master cylinder.
55
« on: 29 June 2020, 05:17:03 pm »
The standard 1000's shock spring is not heavier than the R6, nor are the two directly comparible. The R6 shock is shorter than the standard rear shock but has a heavier rate spring (550lbs-inch vs standard shock's 425lb spring). Shock length, spring rate and internal valving differences means a direct comparison between R6 and OEM shocks will be pointless. To emphasise this, the FZS600 has a shock whose length is within 5mm of the 1000's unit... but it has an 800lb spring fitted to it.
FWIW, I had a mid-range R2 Nitron shock & an R6 unit at the same time back in 2010 and there was no significant difference between the two. It's well worth persevering with the R6 shock, set up right they are as good as many expensive aftermarket designs.
FZS1000 has a 178mm / 7 inch springR6 has a 165mm / 6.5 inch spring.
56
« on: 29 June 2020, 04:50:50 pm »
A few spare parts for sale after twelve years of Fazer ownership. - Aftermarket adjustable full length brake & clutch levers in silver, fitted the levers to the bike but never even used them on the road £15 inc post.
- Standard master cylinder. £15 inc post.
- Sensor at back of engine block. Errr... will have to find out name of it! Bought but never used £8 inc post.
- 4x mini indicators with 8x fairing spacers / cover plates. Fitted just one but actually preferred the standard indicators with clear lenses. Have the Audi-type directional flashing. I believe they require a different indicator relay fitted, so that they flash at the right speed. £20 inc post.
- K-Tech linear fork springs 8.5nm. Originally for a Bandit 1200 / XJR1300, but a spring is a spring. Longer than the standard Fazer fork springs so I cut shorter spacers accordingly to restore correct internal dimensions. Suit a lighter rider between 9 - 12 stone. £40 inc post.
- Ignition coil for Cylinders 1 & 4, useful spare. £15 inc post.
- Hagon Shock. Standard length and spring for a 'standard' 75-100kg weight rider. Less than a year old, bolts straight on £165 inc post.
- S1000RR rear shock. This shock WILL need disassembled & rebuilt by a suspension company as the damping has gone. Comes with a heavier R6 spring fitted and dogbones which restore the back end to around the standard height. Has an R6 lower mounting bolt and a spacer to go in the lower suspension bush. Preload collar a bit chewed up. Top mount will need drilled out or some sort of top-hat spacer arrangement. £40 inc post.
- *SOLD* EBC FA252 HH front brake pads.
- *SOLD* Full set of stainless steel pistons to suit front blue-spot calipers.
- *SOLD* Yam R1 5jj gear shift. Much quicker / smoother gear changes.
- *SOLD* Head bearing adjuster.
- *SOLD* R1/R6 radial master cylinder with full length & short brake lever
- *SOLD* Beamtech LED headlight bulbs.
- *SOLD* Full Exup valve
Can send more pics if required. Updated as I clear out the garage.
57
« on: 24 June 2020, 11:52:25 am »
If the cost of importing & shipping an Ivan's kit is too much, you might want to check Raven Rider's carb mod detailed on the US FZ1 site: http://yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=89724&highlight=ravenrider+carb . With an advancer it will get you three quarters of the way there for about £25. Anyone who's tried it seemed to think it made a decent improvement.
58
« on: 12 June 2020, 02:29:30 pm »
From memory, standard rear shock spring is 425lbs, BMW spring is 475lbs and R6 spring is around 550lbs. The standard BMW spring will be borderline for you, so swapping it for an R6 spring would probably get you closer to ideal.
59
« on: 09 June 2020, 08:04:24 pm »
Sh1t Apologies, I didn't know that
60
« on: 09 June 2020, 06:56:36 pm »
No transplants from any other bikes, only the aftermarket shock range such as:YSSHagonNitronOhlinsBitubo etcYou could also rebuild the standard shock and add a Hyperpro spring, but it'll still have a standard shock's valving.
For what it's worth, the R6 shock conversion is well worth doing providing you're not a stick insect or a bloaterEDIT: I think Luke/ Devilsyam sells all the parts needed for the conversion
61
« on: 07 June 2020, 07:00:29 pm »
Was it doing this before your carb rebuild, or was this why you took 'em apart? Is it oiling up quite fast and quite badly?Are there big miles up on her? Did you use a new spark plug each time? Coil was my first thought but you've ruled it out Compression test for cylinder #4?
62
« on: 18 May 2020, 08:28:45 am »
Tim, reading back over this thread, you've tried pretty much everything obvious. I take it you're not the original owner of the bike? Wondering now if it's been involved in a minor front-end prang and only been half-repaired. As in - are the fork stanchions are totally straight and the telescoping action is smooth at one part of the compression stroke and impaired at another? Then when the fork rebounds you experience a similar jerkiness at some point in the suspension travel.
Unlikely I know but we have to consider all possibilities around this issue - wouldn't want you throwing a fortune at the problem just to find the forks are out-of-true....
63
« on: 27 April 2020, 03:12:36 pm »
A small minority of these bikes do seem to generate more vibration than others: a couple of owners have even sold the bike on as they couldn't fix the problem no matter what they tried. I have a packet of lead fishing weights and FJ1200 bar-ends sitting in the garage ready for installation, but my handlebar vibes are bearable except for very long journeys. Anyway, possible fixes. As Dudeofrude states, out-of-balance injectors do tend to generate more vibes. Have you tried riding without any bar-ends attached - vibrations the same or even worse? Have you checked the engine mount bolt torque settings - unlikely, but might be something there not helping.Pat's invaluable website should make that task easy: http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/retorquemountbolts.html EDIT: Just re-read & I take it you have a Gen 2 machine? In which case, ignore my link to Pat's FZ1 site. Having said that, you should still check the engine bolts for any anomalies. Some clarity on your earlier posts, please (maybe I'm the only one who's confused). Did you mean front-end chatter as in the suspension behavioural characteristic or shatter as in you suspect front-end of the bike has possibly struck something and there is now unusual vibration coming from the forks?
64
« on: 28 March 2020, 07:00:24 am »
1.0 springs sound like they would suit better if you're a fast road rider, carry a pillion or carry a lot of luggage around. 0.95 springs would offer you a comfier ride but might give excess 'dive' on the brakes & front-end going very light under acceleration. You could maybe dial some of that out with the rebound / compression damping. Do the forks have standard internals?
65
« on: 27 March 2020, 09:25:21 pm »
It may work 'ok', but if you've gone that far to improve the front-end, you may as well spend a little more to do it right.Your perfect spring rate depends on your weight+ the bike's weight. Plenty of online charts out there to assist you: this bike with a full tank is about 235kg / 517lbs. Just add your own weight and you'll be able to work the revised spring rate out.Or post details and someone will advise...
66
« on: 24 March 2020, 02:58:44 pm »
Just to confirm that my own with Ivan's slip-on kit is very difficult to start, particularly in the colder months of the year. Seems to be a few people who've noticed this trait over the years. Think I followed the installation procedure to the letter, too... but will maybe take the carbs apart again and double check next winter
67
« on: 24 March 2020, 02:54:11 pm »
Hope you enjoyed it, could be your only ride out for months at the rate things are changing...
68
« on: 24 March 2020, 02:52:13 pm »
No the speedo is off by around five percent. Adding a 17 tooth front sprocket makes it almost 100% accurate: course, that reduces the acceleration (boo!) but improves economy slightly (yay!) I have the device on mine as lowering the gearing makes it read even more inaccurate. I currently have a 45t rear sprocket fitted and from memory adjusted the healer to 7.3
69
« on: 09 March 2020, 08:14:49 pm »
The original springs are dual rate, in the Workshop manual.Chart here: https://www.mad-ducati.com/Technical/racetech/springchartstreet.gifYour weight 95kg / 209lbsBike Weight 210kg / 462lbsTotal bike and rider weight - 305kg / 671lbs I agree with Unfazed, you would probably need between 9.0 and 9.5 springs springs to avoid any bottoming out. Confusing spring ratings used in that chart, I know, Just assume that .90 on this chart is the same as 9.0 springs
70
« on: 09 March 2020, 04:10:32 pm »
I don't know what level you feel comfortable working at, but IMO changing the compression valves are not overly difficult. Rebound valves are a bit more grief. Happy to provide advice if you need it, and there's a thread online somewhere showing early FJR1300 forks, which use the exact same Racetech valve kit.
71
« on: 09 March 2020, 07:13:48 am »
I was thinking of reviving this thread yesterday. Was going to ask how the forks were? Got some k tech linear springs to fit in mine but still torn on doing a revalve. There seems to be no instructions available for the K tech kits despite being able to buy them.
Well, that sounds like a nice earner for them - people buy their kit then pay them again to personalise the shimstack . At least RaceTech have an online service that tells you the exact shimstack setup needed for your specified weight. Reactive suspension near York do courses on suspension: even if you don't go on it, I suspect they'd probably setup the valves cheaper than K-Tech would.
72
« on: 04 February 2020, 09:44:26 pm »
My fault love it!Unfortunately virtually all standard factory front fork springs are dual-rate to suit a wider range of people. Aftermarket linear springs are easier to work with adjustment-wise once you're tinkering around with the setup. You need to source springs from other bikes with 41mm diameter forks and preferably of a similar length to the Fazer's fork springs. The information is out there online. As I said, SV650 linears can do the job and are popular due to the bikes being raced (if you can't find anyone who sells genuine Fazer linear springs). R6 shock - the linkage dogbones have to be changed for shorter versions, as the R6 shock is shorter than the standard Fazer rear shock. Change them or else the rear end will be sitting very low (125-130mm centre to centre holes). I found the standard R6 spring bottomed out on the roads, so changing the spring is almost essential, unless you're very light. That emulator you've listed on ebay looks exactly like the old Debrix emulators I used, so would almost certainly be what you're looking for beware of US import tax, tho... Those emulators also pop up for sale occasionally on SV650 owner forums... Hope you find all your parts!
73
« on: 02 February 2020, 04:06:47 pm »
74
« on: 31 January 2020, 06:10:05 pm »
2001-2005, revised 2nd Gen model from 2006 onwards
75
« on: 26 January 2020, 06:49:01 pm »
The end of an era Thanks for all your advice on the forums over the years, Mike.
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