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Messages - pointer2null
51
« on: 30 July 2014, 07:35:42 pm »
1. image showing the black and decker workbench with the bottom of the fork, what is it we are looking at/for here? a red circle and text would help
As in the original the text says: "[size=78%]Try and loosen the damper retaining bolt located in the bottom of the fork. [/size][/size][size=78%] You can see in the picture the top of a hex nut in the bottom of the fork.[/size]
2. DO NOT LET THE FORK BOTTOM OUT ... what does this mean and what do we do to prevent it - pics please - what does "good" and "bad" look like?
This means when you compress the fork (push inner into bottom) do not force it right to the bottom "bottom out" as it will stick. If it does you have to pull it out which can be tricky as it's all covered in oil by then.
3. Loosening/removing damper assembly and stubborn bolts - example pics please
what does a pic of a stubborn bolt look like?
4. ..from here on in the tutorial is not easy to follow as there are just "[limited reached]" errors littered through the text and I wouldnt attempt this job without guidance - please can we sort out the errors
see link to old site with pics
52
« on: 30 July 2014, 03:03:19 pm »
53
« on: 30 July 2014, 02:59:37 pm »
When you balance the carbs you change the position of the flaps on carbs 1, 2 and 3 relative to 4 where the TPS is. So you can (depending on how much you adjust them) put the TPS out of adjustment. Hence the check.
54
« on: 20 June 2014, 02:50:47 pm »
if you've disturbed the pads they may take a while to settle down. If you inadvertently swapped them over they may take a while longer to bed back in...
55
« on: 21 May 2014, 02:47:55 pm »
you can just about push pistons in by hand with no fluid.
56
« on: 20 May 2014, 05:59:04 pm »
They seize for a past time. You will need to get it done, even if it passes the MOT it will only get worse as time goes on and cost more to fix. In the end the pistons don't retract properly and that doesn't do your disk any favors or your MPG's
57
« on: 20 May 2014, 05:57:05 pm »
mine has been leaking for 2 years or so now. MOT always says the same thing "Exhaust leaking but not excessively noisy". If it ain't too bad and you don't even wanna buy silicone then leave it.
58
« on: 20 May 2014, 05:44:51 pm »
I've just been outside winding the pistons back in again so I can drive to work tomorrow and something interesting showed up.
As I wind one in the other pops out. Nothing too ground breaking so I clamped one piston while i tried to wind the other in. Won't budge. Release the hydraulic seal on the master cylinder end of the hose and they pop back in no problem. So I wonder if it's the master cylinder... maybe some of the rubber fragments from the old hose got back up into it.
59
« on: 20 May 2014, 08:12:54 am »
Rear break started binding on a month or so ago. I assumed it was the usual fazer brake issue, but when I had a look the pistons were clean. I tried to wind them back into the caliper with a piston tool but they wouldn't budge. It was only when I opened the bleed screws they went back. So all was well for two weeks or so and then they stuck again. So this time I took each piston out to check and they were clean as was the bore in the caliper. However, there was a small bit of rubber in brake fluid. So I order and fitted a new hose (still had the original one on and it's a '98 machine so it was getting on for 16 years!) and flushed the system out - including a few more small fragments of rubber. All seemed fine for a couple of week and then yesterday the ****ing thing stuck on again.
The only thing I noticed was when I took the pistons out they were difficult to push back into the caliper - should they be easy to move (with no fluid in and bleed valves open)?
Any suggestions?
Current plan is to re-visit the caliper on friday. I'll pop the pistons back out and pull the seals out (I have a new set), I may split the caliper to have a good look inside (my local bike parts shop stocks the internal o-rings).
60
« on: 18 March 2014, 12:08:13 pm »
Was gonna post when I had some fuel figures.
It seems good - the main differences are when pulling away and at the top end - It's like pulling away in gear 1.5 instead of 1st and having a 7th gear available at the top. I find it suits my riding perfectly - most of which is in town and filtering then on the motorway. The power is still there, you just need to change down a gear (or stay in the lower gear a fraction longer) to bring the revs up a bit. When filtering the engine isn't as torque-y - which is a bonus for fine control. Wish I had done this years ago.
Will post back when I know how the fuel consumption works out.
61
« on: 10 March 2014, 07:36:38 pm »
it's not jamming in the up position - it always returns the mid position. It seems like it simply jams and won't change up. If I try a second (occasionally third) time, it will shift. A good way to describe it would be similar to the feeling of changing gear when the engine is not running.
62
« on: 10 March 2014, 05:44:40 pm »
No - the old one was viably shot - the rubber seal were broken, the joints were rusted and so loose you could pop them apart by hand.
63
« on: 10 March 2014, 01:41:20 pm »
Ok - I've already done the lever and linkage the original was very worn - the new one feels really tight and hardly moves compared with before.
I'll have a look at the springs since they are relatively easy to get at.
64
« on: 10 March 2014, 12:55:02 pm »
A bike ramp you mean. I keep asking for one but santa keeps telling me to p*** off 
65
« on: 10 March 2014, 12:05:57 pm »
Ok - will do a bit of searching. No mad rush to do it, but it will need doing before next winter.
Just read your how to do the selectors post... you mention a bike bench, i guess you mean something you can lay the bike on it's side on?
How long would you say it would take a mechanic who hadn't done it before?
66
« on: 10 March 2014, 10:21:30 am »
This has been getting worse for some time and it's now getting to the point of making riding tricky...
Any common fazer issue cause this? I'm guessing worn selector forks.
Also - any recommendation on where to buy replacements (excluding ebay).
67
« on: 07 March 2014, 06:05:22 pm »
They're on. Front sprocket nut was loose (despite having the lock tab still firmly in place), but no surprise there.
Went for a short test drive to Tesco and back (under 1/2 mile) and seemed fine to me, not a lot of difference.
Will see what it's like Monday when I do the work run - got a 4 mile motorway sprint.
68
« on: 01 March 2014, 10:59:00 pm »
well i got the chain and sprockets today, +1 front , -1 rear so will fit them sometime in the next few months (wanna eek out the best I can from the current chain) although I don't think the current one will last long now - time between large adjustments (1/2 turn) is down to 3 weeks.
When I start using them I'll post back and let you all know the results. My mpg is consistent at 50 (+- 2) mpg so will see how the fuel consumption is affected.
69
« on: 28 February 2014, 03:23:19 pm »
thats handy - there was one on the old fazer site. Gonna go for front +1 and rear -1 See how that goes, it it's too much I'll swap one for a standard. If I put the back on the front and front on the back I can do 500MPH in 4th
70
« on: 28 February 2014, 02:17:41 pm »
AFAIK you can get away with one or two more teeth on the front.
On tooth on the front is the equivelent of about 3 on the back - hence why I was thinking of doing that rather than changing the rear.
71
« on: 28 February 2014, 02:12:26 pm »
It's time for a new chain - the cheapo one I stuck on the old sprockets 3 years ago is approaching end of life. So, I'm toying with the idea of putting a larger sprocket on the front.  I'm not interested in pulling wheelies or riding like a dick, I more interested in MPG's on the way too and from work so the loss of accelleration isn't a problem. Anyone tried anything like this before? How much difference will it make to the ride/MPG etc?
72
« on: 29 December 2013, 08:43:29 pm »
got bored when the fighting started, BUT interested in the mod. What is the beam pattern like (i.e. what shape is the light beam if pointed at a wall)? Reason for asking is to see if this would pass the MOT. ( http://www.motuk.co.uk/mcmanual_160.htm)
73
« on: 29 December 2013, 08:35:05 pm »
I ride all year round and the only way I've found (not yet tried though) to stop the Fazer rear caliper from seizing is to sell the fazer and buy something different. Daft design - under slung with no drain hole.
What I've done is buy a second caliper, so each year (from now on) I will swap the dirty one off and put the newly refurbished on on until next year...
You can try and wash it with hot or cold water, but the problem is the crud that gets down the side of the pistons and (strange though it sounds) under the seal. This corrodes the metal forcing the seal upward which clamps on the piston, then the rest of the barrel corrodes and then it's overhaul time.
74
« on: 05 November 2013, 09:39:46 pm »
... you suddenly realize 7 more years have gone by. Not quite Pink Floyd but still. For those who may remember, about 7 years ago I posted about my bankruptcy. Well, I was discharged after a year, then 6 years later it all dropped off the credit record. That was June this year. So overnight I went from a credit record like Greece, to a record like Germany. Today, we exchanged contracts on our own home. It took 7 years but I'm now a home owner again. WHOOT! 
75
« on: 24 September 2013, 10:06:05 am »
Only thing that would concern me with something from the toy shop Maplin is the security. Are these the cameras with crap security that can be hacked by any script kiddie and broadcast to world + dog for a laugh?
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