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Messages - MB61YAM
1
« on: 24 September 2016, 07:22:06 pm »
when I refit my Reactive fettled forks is there anything in particular to check, I am using all new bolts apart from the wheel spindle, the new Yamaha ones are much better quality, the top hat spacer seems to fit one way but the parts schematic show it the other way ?, just any tips would be helpful, thought I might pull the pads and clean the calipers whilst I was at it too. Any ideas on torques settings for various fork retaining bolts ?[/size]odd thing on my Fazer 8, six bolts to hold the mudguard on, six bolts to hold the forks in, seems oddthanks for any info
2
« on: 24 September 2016, 08:47:48 am »
when I refit my Reactive fettled forks is there anything in particular to check, I am using all new bolts apart from the wheel spindle, the new Yamaha ones are much better quality, the top hat spacer seems to fit one way but the parts schematic show it the other way ?, just any tips would be helpful, thought I might pull the pads and clean the calipers whilst I was at it too. Any ideas on torques settings for various fork retaining bolts ? odd thing on my Fazer 8, six bolts to hold the mudguard on, six bolts to hold the forks in, seems odd thanks for any info 
3
« on: 24 September 2016, 08:40:54 am »
if you are looking up parts numbers use Yamaha Europe's online catalogue, its a faff to find but is what Fowlers base theirs on but is so much clearer and zoomable, this is not a critique of Fowler's by the way, on my computer the Yamaha site is so much clearer, then you can use fowlers parts search to locate your bits, simples !!
4
« on: 09 September 2016, 04:06:42 pm »
Must be a bargain then, from Yamabits, using Yamaha's parts number they are 85 plus VAT each, thats where my price came from, then you need to add the cowl or get the knife out, I saved 10 kilos in weight by ditching the pillion pegs, both sides and both handles, covered holes with carbon fibre panels, plus replaced exhaust hanger with R&G in readiness for Akra pipe, just enjoy the 8 and don't let people diss you about it, mine is currently off the road having a fork rebuild and set up changes
5
« on: 07 September 2016, 11:17:47 am »
you could cut out the rear cowl if you were brave enough, or just replace the top section of the rear cowl, not cheap, FYI, genuine Yamaha pillion grab handles are around 100 quid per side.
6
« on: 01 September 2016, 04:08:59 pm »
people ragging on my Fazer 8, it has all the same parts as the 1000 but is missing 200cc, it does all I need and if 106 donkeys and 150mph isn't enough, tough titties
7
« on: 01 September 2016, 04:06:21 pm »
bike has done 6000 miles, when I bought it, 5400 miles, unkown to me it had badly corroded chrome stanchions, the middle owner didn't care about it cos the level of general corrosion indicates it was ridden and not looked after, initial owner a young lady did look after it. dealer i got it from fitted 2 sets of seals before replacing the the stanchion, it appears they didn't replace anything else so it has just failed as worn bushes caused problems, as long as you keep the chrome stanchions clean and free of pits, seals should last 12 to 15 thousand miles I think, possibly longer.
oddly the pitted and manky stanchion didn't leak but getting a new one and forks set for my fat arse LOL
8
« on: 31 August 2016, 05:14:22 pm »
looks like the Fazer fork rebuild after various calamities is going to be 400 notes, stripped rebuilt with new parts, new springs and damper settings to suit my weight etc so not bad, second replacement of chrome bit of slider included, taken them to Gareth at Reactive near York so should be spot on when the return, hopefully by late September, then will need to pull apart the raer linkage and maybe by a new shock to match the front, good job its a keeper.
9
« on: 31 August 2016, 05:10:05 pm »
turns out it was further electrical gremlins, the dealer said it was side stand switch and various other connections but it seems ok now, shame is its off the road for about three weeks for a complete front end rebuild after the newly built stanchion and seal fix it required when I bought it cried enough and dumped the whole of the leg full of fork oil on me boot and the belly pan just near home followed by the rest on the garage floor when I got home 
10
« on: 02 August 2016, 01:56:40 pm »
that sounds like a sensible plan, yet the bloody thing started fine last night, bastard LOL 
11
« on: 01 August 2016, 09:16:19 am »
having returned to riding after a 2 week ban (for major dental trauma) the old girl refused to start, connected the Optimate back up, just pressed the starter again and it fired up no problem, it fired up ok when I had filled it up 20 mins later, so could this be a faulty Optimate (it showed all lights lit up and the green was on) or could it be a battery which is borderline, it is five years old and has done a great deal of running, any thoughts guys ??
12
« on: 14 July 2016, 03:29:56 pm »
turns out it was just faulty and furry connections to the injection solenoids, first owner ( 2 years ) had regular maintenance, second owner didn't, hey ho
13
« on: 14 July 2016, 03:28:40 pm »
turns out it was just faulty and furry connections to the injection solenoids, first owner ( 2 years ) had regular maintenance, second owner didn't, hey ho
14
« on: 12 July 2016, 07:08:53 am »
It cranked fine and lead to optimate seems ok, ECU light was flashing which is supposed code for fuel injection issues, going to docs tomorrow, due a service anyway,will post an update
When the starter cranks, due to current draw, the voltage drops. If the battery is knackered (regardless of being tendered) the voltage can drop so low, that the MIL illuminates (because low voltage prevents all of the emissions control systems from functioning properly), if the injector solenoids cannot be energised properly (less than 9v) it definitely won't fire up. Your battery is probably shot.
Thanks for the reply, I suspect you might be right, I hadnt considered the battery, it has been on the Optimate for a couple of weeks which shows it as being charged and in the green, it does though appear to be the origanal battery which will be almost 5 years old and with the bike having done under 6000 miles its a good place to start.
15
« on: 11 July 2016, 08:19:36 pm »
It cranked fine and lead to optimate seems ok, ECU light was flashing which is supposed code for fuel injection issues, going to docs tomorrow, due a service anyway,will post an update
16
« on: 11 July 2016, 08:16:54 pm »
I thought that but it has a steel plate over with no sign of damage, thanks for reply
17
« on: 10 July 2016, 07:37:12 pm »
pulled the Fazer out of the garage this afternoon for the first time in a couple of weeks, been on the Optimate, just refused to start, abs light and emu light stayed on and after a couple of seconds cranking the emu light started flashing, was perfect before it went away last time, only thing done is to fit exhaust hanger and adjust gear lever for new pegs, any ideas ??
I did leave my u lock in the back wheel when I tried to wheel it out of garage but no apparent damage done, checked electrics as best I could but nothing obvious, main fuse was OK if a bit grubby.
any ideas
18
« on: 10 July 2016, 06:43:59 pm »
pulled the Fazer out of the garage this afternoon for the first time in a couple of weeks, been on the Optimate, just refused to start, abs light and emu light stayed on and after a couple of seconds cranking the emu light started flashing, was perfect before it went away last time, only thing done is to fit exhaust hanger and adjust gear lever for new pegs, any ideas ??
I did leave my u lock in the back wheel when I tried to wheel it out of garage but no apparent damage done, checked electrics as best I could but nothing obvious, main fuse was OK if a bit grubby.
any ideas
19
« on: 10 July 2016, 06:42:32 pm »
pulled the Fazer out of the garage this afternoon for the first time in a couple of weeks, been on the Optimate, just refused to start, abs light and emu light stayed on and after a couple of seconds cranking the emu light started flashing, was perfect before it went away last time, only thing done is to fit exhaust hanger and adjust gear lever for new pegs, any ideas ??
I did leave my u lock in the back wheel when I tried to wheel it out of garage but no apparent damage done, checked electrics as best I could but nothing obvious, main fuse was OK if a bit grubby.
any ideas
20
« on: 10 July 2016, 06:36:28 pm »
not at the moment thanks for asking, I will give it some thought though
21
« on: 06 July 2016, 10:49:58 am »
just fitted Chinese cnc adjustable footpegs to my Fazer8, came in under a week, cost a third of the alternatives and were actually more adjustable, quality seems fine although anodizing very thin, done a couple of hundred miles without issue.
Cheers buddy, footpegs will be my next items, but going to wait as the previous owner had only just fitted new OEM pegs before selling to me and I want to wait until the rubber starts to perrish before I change them 
I fitted them to increase distance between seat and foot peg, they are an inch lower but still slightly higher than the oe hero blobs
22
« on: 06 July 2016, 10:47:31 am »
just fitted Chinese cnc adjustable footpegs to my Fazer8, came in under a week, cost a third of the alternatives and were actually more adjustable, quality seems fine although anodizing very thin, done a couple of hundred miles without issue.
Cheers buddy, footpegs will be my next items, but going to wait as the previous owner had only just fitted new OEM pegs before selling to me and I want to wait until the rubber starts to perrish before I change them
23
« on: 06 July 2016, 08:27:02 am »
just fitted Chinese cnc adjustable footpegs to my Fazer8, came in under a week, cost a third of the alternatives and were actually more adjustable, quality seems fine although anodizing very thin, done a couple of hundred miles without issue.
24
« on: 04 July 2016, 08:56:10 am »
I have taken the pillion handles off and bolted carbon fibre plates in place, Looks ok and does the job. I have taken off the pillion footrest assemblies, fitting an R&G blanking plate and exhaust hanger, saved close to 4kg, carbon pipe and tail tidy will save another 5 kilos at least, just need to loose about 50 kilos myself and a light weight Fazer will result, 
25
« on: 04 July 2016, 08:54:19 am »
I have taken the handles off and bolted carbon fibre plates in place, Looks ok and does the job. I have taken off the pillion footrest assemblies, fitting an R&G blanking plate and exhaust hanger, saved close to 4kg, carbon pipe and tail tidy will save another 5 kilos at least, just need to loose about 50 kilos myself LOL
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