Post by: deanflyer on 25 January 2020, 09:39:45 am
Hi,
Im buying a 2002 Fazer with just over 20,000 miles from a friend. It hasn't been used for quite a while and will need an MOT soon, which he is happy to do for me. He tells me its in good condition.
I wont be picking the bike up until March when I should have finished my licence so plenty of time to fettle anything that needs looking at.
As a complete newbie to motorbikes and the FZS600 what should I look out for?
BTW its the go faster gold colour :)
Thanks,
Dean
Post by: Gnasher on 25 January 2020, 10:17:09 am
If it's gold as standard it will be either 5DM7 or 5DMA (look on the frame under the seat) these are 2000 models that have sat around in the supply chain or dealerships until being registered in 2002. In which case it's what knwn as a 'box eye' i.e. two square headlights, if you look here http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=34.0 (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?topic=34.0) you can see all the model differences.
Fazers are very solid bikes, if there looked after they go on and on, even when neglected they still keep giving. Their Achilles heel, is the rear shock on all models, as standard they last no more than 8k and the rear caliper. Other areas that need looking at and some TLC, front calipers, drown tubes/collector these rust through, chain sprockets.
That's about it really, yes they're other areas but on a 20k bike these shouldn't be an issue. If the above are all good and the bike is clean, you've got a gem my friend look after it. :)
Post by: YamFazFan on 25 January 2020, 10:55:59 am
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?PHPSESSID=af91pi5hghk1u4r66hu5p65um4&topic=92.msg362#msg362 (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?PHPSESSID=af91pi5hghk1u4r66hu5p65um4&topic=92.msg362#msg362)
Post by: Gnasher on 25 January 2020, 11:14:19 am
Check to see if the front sprocket nut has been changed to the updated one yet. If it hasn't you might want to consider getting it done.
[url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?PHPSESSID=af91pi5hghk1u4r66hu5p65um4&topic=92.msg362#msg362[/url] ([url]http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php?PHPSESSID=af91pi5hghk1u4r66hu5p65um4&topic=92.msg362#msg362[/url])
Good point ;) Most sprockets should have been replaced by now and any that destroyed themselves had the lay shaft replaced as there was no or little thread left. In my experience most of these loose nuts were not fitted on original sprockets but on replacement sprockets, when new chains were fitted.
The other important element is the use of threadlock.
Post by: mtread on 25 January 2020, 01:02:26 pm
Check the downpipes. They tend to rust through to little holes.
They are a great bike.
Post by: YamFazFan on 25 January 2020, 01:17:46 pm
Check the downpipes. They tend to rust through to little holes.
This review says that the down-pipes were black painted stainless steel from 2002 onwards...
https://www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/reviews/bikes/yamaha/yamaha-fzs600-fazer-1998-2003-buyers-guide (https://www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/reviews/bikes/yamaha/yamaha-fzs600-fazer-1998-2003-buyers-guide)
Post by: bandit on 25 January 2020, 01:55:28 pm
Check the downpipes. They tend to rust through to little holes.
This review says that the down-pipes were black painted stainless steel from 2002 onwards...
https://www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/reviews/bikes/yamaha/yamaha-fzs600-fazer-1998-2003-buyers-guide (https://www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/reviews/bikes/yamaha/yamaha-fzs600-fazer-1998-2003-buyers-guide)
To be honest I think all years had stainless downpipes but all years had mild steel collectors & that's the bit that rot's away on all models.
Post by: fazersharp on 25 January 2020, 02:08:19 pm
My 98 is all steelCheck the downpipes. They tend to rust through to little holes.
This review says that the down-pipes were black painted stainless steel from 2002 onwards...
https://www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/reviews/bikes/yamaha/yamaha-fzs600-fazer-1998-2003-buyers-guide (https://www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocial/reviews/bikes/yamaha/yamaha-fzs600-fazer-1998-2003-buyers-guide)
To be honest I think all years had stainless downpipes but all years had mild steel collectors & that's the bit that rot's away on all models.
Post by: mtread on 25 January 2020, 02:30:56 pm
Quote
This review says that the down-pipes were black painted stainless steel from 2002 onwards...But I think we've established this isn't a 2002 model. Anyway, as pointed out, the collector box goes rusty, whatever the model.
Post by: darrsi on 25 January 2020, 02:51:54 pm
Either that or just change the year to a 2000.
Post by: vinnyb on 25 January 2020, 02:54:13 pm
The stainless is pretty low grade anyway, mine's an '03 and a magnet sticks to it. I've got a complete Motad system to fit when I get round to it.QuoteThis review says that the down-pipes were black painted stainless steel from 2002 onwards...But I think we've established this isn't a 2002 model. Anyway, as pointed out, the collector box goes rusty, whatever the model.
Post by: fazersharp on 25 January 2020, 03:33:05 pm
Hows the magnet test on thatThe stainless is pretty low grade anyway, mine's an '03 and a magnet sticks to it. I've got a complete Motad system to fit when I get round to it.QuoteThis review says that the down-pipes were black painted stainless steel from 2002 onwards...But I think we've established this isn't a 2002 model. Anyway, as pointed out, the collector box goes rusty, whatever the model.
Post by: vinnyb on 25 January 2020, 03:55:57 pm
No stick at all.Hows the magnet test on thatThe stainless is pretty low grade anyway, mine's an '03 and a magnet sticks to it. I've got a complete Motad system to fit when I get round to it.QuoteThis review says that the down-pipes were black painted stainless steel from 2002 onwards...But I think we've established this isn't a 2002 model. Anyway, as pointed out, the collector box goes rusty, whatever the model.
Post by: fazersharp on 25 January 2020, 04:00:17 pm
Welds too ?No stick at all.Hows the magnet test on thatThe stainless is pretty low grade anyway, mine's an '03 and a magnet sticks to it. I've got a complete Motad system to fit when I get round to it.QuoteThis review says that the down-pipes were black painted stainless steel from 2002 onwards...But I think we've established this isn't a 2002 model. Anyway, as pointed out, the collector box goes rusty, whatever the model.
Post by: vinnyb on 25 January 2020, 04:07:50 pm
Now you're asking. I haven't checked. It's in the attic at the moment, if I think about it I'll take a magnet up with me next time I go and check them.Welds too ?No stick at all.Hows the magnet test on thatThe stainless is pretty low grade anyway, mine's an '03 and a magnet sticks to it. I've got a complete Motad system to fit when I get round to it.QuoteThis review says that the down-pipes were black painted stainless steel from 2002 onwards...But I think we've established this isn't a 2002 model. Anyway, as pointed out, the collector box goes rusty, whatever the model.
Post by: deanflyer on 25 January 2020, 05:50:46 pm
Thanks for the info, much appreciated. The downpipes are black, but these could be aftermarket/upgraded. I'll have a proper look when I go to collect it and check the chassis code.
Looking forward to riding it, I've only been on a CG125 so far :)
Post by: vinnyb on 25 January 2020, 06:39:08 pm
What did you take your test on?
Thanks for the info, much appreciated. The downpipes are black, but these could be aftermarket/upgraded. I'll have a proper look when I go to collect it and check the chassis code.
Looking forward to riding it, I've only been on a CG125 so far :)
Post by: YamFazFan on 25 January 2020, 06:41:26 pm
Post by: vinnyb on 25 January 2020, 06:53:29 pm
Sorry my mistake. You've not taken your test yet. As Yamfazfan said go easy on it when you get to ride it.What did you take your test on?
Thanks for the info, much appreciated. The downpipes are black, but these could be aftermarket/upgraded. I'll have a proper look when I go to collect it and check the chassis code.
Looking forward to riding it, I've only been on a CG125 so far :)
Post by: Middy2000 on 25 January 2020, 09:09:45 pm
Change the sprocket nut. Its a 10 minute job and costs under a tenner. No brainer.
Post by: BMCfaz on 27 January 2020, 10:22:35 am
They were a bit of a "parts-bin-special" but none the worse for it. There's lots you can easily upgrade to make a very good bike even better.
Post by: Arfa on 28 January 2020, 01:46:02 pm
Shock will likely be original and in need of replacement soon (budget £100-150 to refurb, or £300 for new Hagon shock).
Check rear caliper - often gets clogged up. Many swap it for FZS1000 blue spot caliper which is more reliable (budget £60-100 parts)
Check downpipes as bottom underneath. All original ones rust through - even my much later 2003 models wa full of holes by 20k odd (budget £200 parts + labour. Couldbe tricky job if studs on engine snap).
Check if brake lines are still orginal rubber ones - if so, budget on replacing with braided lines at this age (£80 parts). Brake fluid is probably long overdue a change anyway.
As with any old bike, check everything else, all lights and electrics work, kill switch/side stand cuts out engine. Check for leaking oil on fork seals (£100-150 job). Check oil has no cream goo in it (sight glass on bottom right of engine), or smoke from oil filler cap when rev'd gently - that'll be screwed engine, so walk away. Check all big fat water hoses aren't cracked/split with age - there's no cheap aftermarket silicone hoses available, genuine hoses are about £20-30 each.
As it's been sat for whilte, check it rev's well, carbs may need a clean (lots of labour). Check age on tyres (google how to read tyre manufacture date), they could be brittle death traps by now, just budget on £200-250 to replace immediately. Check there's no rust inside the tank. See when coolent was last changed - it could need a thorough flush through now (1h labour).
TBH if you're mate actually going to properly service the bike, or just shove it through an MOT alone? If only the latter, I'd plan on taking it straight to a decent garage who will do a thorough job changing all fluids/filters etc (budget £200-300).
Post by: mtread on 28 January 2020, 04:43:33 pm
Post by: YamFazFan on 28 January 2020, 04:54:23 pm
Blimey arfa. You frightened me, let alone a newbie :lol+1 :eek :lol
Post by: deanflyer on 30 January 2020, 12:51:20 pm
He is asking £1100 for it, does that seem reasonable?
Also, can you fit heated grips easily enough?
Post by: Arfa on 30 January 2020, 01:46:55 pm
TBH, I'd be looking at a later 2002-2003 model (which are better spec'd) that has been used fairly regularly.
Check out this 2003 model on ebay (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?ff3=4&toolid=11800&pub=5574962995&campid=5337246854&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2F2003-03-YAMAHA-FZS600-NATIONWIDE-DEILVERY-USED-MOTORBIKE%2F362846129961%3Fhash%3Ditem547b508f29%3Ag%3A550AAOSwU0Vd8zH7), £1500 from a dealer with 28K on it. Mot history, shows it had a few hundred or thousand miles put on it each year. Mentions a binding back brake, so that'd prob need swapping. Also mention corrosion - probably the downpipes and that rear brake caliper strut. But at least it'll have 3 months warranty on it....
Another similar one here (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?ff3=4&toolid=11800&pub=5574962995&campid=5337246854&mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2F2002-Yamaha-FZ6-Fazer-FZS600-Fazer-Debit-cards-welcome-Sports-Tourer%2F293396151135%3Fhash%3Ditem444fc5fb5f%3Ag%3Azv8AAOSwf9teKw32), 2002, 29k on it, £1450. Which again has had a thou miles put on it most years.
Extend your budget to £1.5k, get a later model, pick one that been maintained and used regularly, it'll be a much safer bet.
Post by: deanflyer on 30 January 2020, 05:10:55 pm
BTW I maybe a new rider, but ive just gone the wrong side of 50, so have a sensible(ish) attitude to learning and welcome any suggestions.
Money isnt really an issue, but thought having something like this for my first year riding would be a good idea.
Budget wise id be happy to spend 5-6K on a new bike if it was going to be a keeper, however im guessing whats suitable now may not be suitable once Ive got more experience.
Post by: His Dudeness on 30 January 2020, 05:55:18 pm
Post by: Trebus on 30 January 2020, 09:28:36 pm
Post by: 74eldiablo on 31 January 2020, 05:33:06 pm
If he doesnt move on price then jog on to the next one.... private sales are better for haggling.
Stealerships buy em cheap as a trade in say £5/600 give em a wash and a quick once over, a ride round the block and offer a token warranty but the price is now £15/1600
Go see as many as you can theres plenty around its a buyers market
Post by: mtread on 01 February 2020, 12:03:58 am
Paying any more, and you're being charitable.
Have a serious conversation, as a mate. He would have trouble offloading it at the price he's asking.
Post by: darrsi on 01 February 2020, 07:50:57 am
To be honest I was only buying it as its my friends bike, and he was happy to keep it for me until I passed my test. Seems like theres a lot of love for the FZS600 on here and another friend had one as his first bike and thought it was ace. Im happy to spend money on the bike, although I know I wont necessarily get it back.
BTW I maybe a new rider, but ive just gone the wrong side of 50, so have a sensible(ish) attitude to learning and welcome any suggestions.
Money isnt really an issue, but thought having something like this for my first year riding would be a good idea.
Budget wise id be happy to spend 5-6K on a new bike if it was going to be a keeper, however im guessing whats suitable now may not be suitable once Ive got more experience.
"...Seems like there's a lot of love for the FZS600 on here..."
Funny that, must be just a coincidence? :lol
Post by: deanflyer on 01 February 2020, 05:50:04 pm
Post by: Gnasher on 01 February 2020, 07:18:32 pm
What matters is it's physical condition, I look after a few that have less than 10k on them, they're as new.
Post by: mtread on 01 February 2020, 11:45:20 pm
Post by: Gnasher on 02 February 2020, 10:07:33 am
I believe that you don't need to have a running engine to pass an MOT?
No, the engine must run for them to check the exhaust system for noise, which would also expose leaks in it and in the fuel the system.
Post by: mtread on 02 February 2020, 11:33:32 am
Post by: gfurm on 05 February 2020, 09:31:02 am
Suspected I'll need new tyres, turned out correct - 180 for a pair of Michelin Pilot Power CT 2 (Roads were too expensive :) ).
Chain looks OK but lost fair bit of O-rings - replacement is around 100 quid if doing yourself.Brake lines have no bulges or leaks but I want to replace them anyway - another 100 for set if doing yourself.
I accepted that when buying 20 years old bike that hasn't done many miles in last few years I will have to spend at least 500 quid for consumables. But I intend to keep it for a few years and I'm using it daily for commute, so I'm willing to do it all.
My take on it is: Buy cheap and spend extra doing stuff yourself or pay more hoping it's been done already - works out the same in price so I'll do it myself and spread the cost over few months as well.
Heated grips - I've spent 3 hours on mine because I got distracted with fitting USB charger, checking air filter, checking oil, coolant and generally rummaging around under the tank (it was off for wiring grips so why not :). Doing just grips would be under 1 hour I think.
Post by: hobbicon on 11 December 2023, 04:52:17 pm
Their Achilles heel, is the rear shock on all models, as standard they last no more than 8k and the rear caliper.
Sorry to dig this up, but I am thinking of buying a used Fazer 600 and see many models with 40k + kilometres on the clock. Do I really need to change the rear suspension shortly after my purchase? Because they are quite costly (300€+), money I do not really wanna spend on such an old bike.
Post by: Gnasher on 11 December 2023, 05:13:38 pm
Don't let the shock issue put you off as long as the rest is fine. Shocks come in many guises, most quality AM second hand can be rebuilt and picked up for £100 or so. Factor in a rebuild approx the same cost, will give you a a quality replacement.
Often quality AM can snapped up for a little more needing no work at all.
Post by: hobbicon on 11 December 2023, 05:23:25 pm
Yes. It depends on quite a few factors, but even a well looked after bike. The shock at 15k miles ish will have lost its edge at least, most will have stopped damping in any predictable manner. That said one of the factors is how and where you ride, a past it's best shock my not be noticed by you.
Thanks for the quick answer, I did not expect you to reply.
So technically I can ride on without having to upgrade the rear suspension? It's just not a great experience I guess.
Post by: Gnasher on 11 December 2023, 05:48:59 pm
Post by: hobbicon on 11 December 2023, 05:51:43 pm
Possibly, depends how bad or not to you shock is. What do you ride currently?
Currently nothing, sold my PD06 Hond Transalp a few months ago. I am looking for a solid but inexpensive learner bike for 2 or 3 years.
A local dealer (Germany, sold with one year of warranty) has offered me a Fazer 600 (2001) with 20k km in very good condition for a bit over 2000€.
But I am not sure if I should not spend a few Euros more on a CB500X, if I have to upgrade the rear suspension and possibly the exhaust manifold of the Fazer.
Post by: Gnasher on 11 December 2023, 06:01:03 pm
That and depending on how good the shock on the Alp was, could we'll make the Fazer for you a sports feel. Try it and take a view. To be honest most owners don't push their bikes hard enough (solo) to notice a under damped shock, providing it's not really bad.
Post by: returning rider on 12 December 2023, 09:30:00 am
is this an oem set up? the end can is oem, going by the seized and sheared exhaust bolts i think its original as well?
Post by: Gnasher on 12 December 2023, 09:35:04 am
Post by: returning rider on 12 December 2023, 10:39:49 am
Actually looks decent grade stainless ie no damage magnet will not stick to it and seems to clean up ok, unless big performance gain see no need to change it then? take it link pipe and end can all needed to have full stainless system?
Cheers
Post by: Gnasher on 12 December 2023, 07:15:37 pm
Post by: returning rider on 14 December 2023, 11:32:19 am
Ah well when i get time over the festive break will clean it up and see about a stainless can and link pipe if i ever get the studs fixed
cheers
Post by: hobbicon on 15 December 2023, 04:56:23 pm
The dealer sent me pictures of it, looks a bit rusty, but does it need immediate replacement?
Exhaust pipe |
The first picture looked fine.
Exhaust pipe |
Post by: fazersharp on 17 December 2023, 10:19:41 am
Adding to his question abot the exhaust pipes.They will probably have some pinholes in that will get bigger. I am still on the OEM steel pipes on my 25 year old Fazer but (read my sig )
The dealer sent me pictures of it, looks a bit rusty, but does it need immediate replacement?
The first picture looked fine.
I have got away so far with filling the small holes that I have with high temp 2 part putty stuff. Its further underneath on that picture where it pits the worse.
Post by: fazersharp on 17 December 2023, 10:23:37 am
Post by: returning rider on 18 December 2023, 01:07:34 pm
so far looks solid
looking at the pictures if no welder available, try braze or solder, can use a map gas torch.
for a small areas like that other idea might be gun gum or the like and put a plate across the whole area, fill it with gun gum and either wire it up or use belly bands like very long hose clips to pull it all together.