2 further thoughts:1. You did tighten the needle valve seat retaining screws when you changed them?2.Float height for 2000 on models should be 3.5mm above float chamber mating surface ( Its 4.5mm on earlier models) 2000 on carbs are marked 5DM1 01Earlier models are 5DM1 00.Only mention this in case carbs have been replaced by previous owner. I know its a bit of a long shot but in diagnosing faults you cant assume anything. Dont mean to teach anyone to suck eggs but it seems you have ruled out a lot of the obvious things mentioned by others. Good luck!
So did the bike come to you with these problems, or did they develop while you've had it?
The Fazer carbs really shouldn't need any tweeking. If I was you I'd put everything back to factory settings. Or for the sake of an easy life just get another set of carbs. They aren't very expensive
Quote from: His Dudeness on 03 August 2016, 06:55:37 pmThe Fazer carbs really shouldn't need any tweeking. If I was you I'd put everything back to factory settings. Or for the sake of an easy life just get another set of carbs. They aren't very expensiveYeah I've done everything I can because I wanted to find the problem. The bike has been to two shops without good results hence me still working on it. Few weeks ago I thought about a set of second hand carbs and tonight after having set the fuel level almost perfectly and the bike still idling like a retard I've decided to formally give up and get another set of carbs!!! I spotted a nice set of 2003 version, they should be compatible with the 2002 bike, right?
It behaves like a ignition retardation when trying to overtake quickly. The engine sputters and looses power of the throttle is twisted quickly. But if I ease it in slowly then I can get through the whole range.
On my bike I had carb problems blocked green/brown crust after cleaning them still not starting or firing ? Found out O rings knakerd thus flooding tried a 2nd set that was on donor bike it ran but not brilliant but it ran,so I took them apart but not the best condition the screws only just came out of the float bowls ! so as my originals are clean I swapped the seats & O rings.Bike started ran but died after warming up ? I realised too rich pilot screws set at OEM so two & three quarters of a turn out it runs ok now don't need choke to start either bike has a K & N filter.I still get a slight hesitation around 2000rpm otherwise it pulls like a train I'm considering a dyno jet kit
They don't need a dyno jet kit.Been there, done that, had to change back to OEM for it to run right again.
Quote from: darrsi on 07 October 2016, 05:04:23 pmThey don't need a dyno jet kit.Been there, done that, had to change back to OEM for it to run right again.Ok thanks I'll forget that then