Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner => Topic started by: moffmeister on 30 May 2020, 11:34:54 am
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use he bike for first time in 8 wks yesterday to go to work (40 miles). When got into Leeds noticed temp warning light on and temp 120C!
Stopped, let it cool down and continued the last 8 miles to work. Came on again.
Going home in pm, seemed normal (fluctuating between 97C and 103C) then again 10 miles from home (return trip is 50 miles)
Coincidentally the 'going wrong' seems to have happened about 45 mins in to each journey.
I'm guessing this may be thermostat faulty, or even temp sensor itself? Plannning to do some more checking today to verify each of these.
Anyone else had this problem? Got any ideas?
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Did you try and remove the radiator cap to see if the coolant was actually boiling?
Sounds like your bike runs hot generally, min sits between 78 and 85 on every ride unless I'm sat in traffic
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Did you try and remove the radiator cap to see if the coolant was actually boiling?
Sounds like your bike runs hot generally, min sits between 78 and 85 on every ride unless I'm sat in traffic
Same here and the fan kicks in around 100.
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have checked the temp sensor with an infra red gun - reading correctly
Replaced the thermostat (last night) - went out for a run - for first 15 miles all good temp between 79 and 92 - got into town and fuelled up then it started again temp upto 108 fan running constantly - went back home and when stopped was rising again.
Have flushed cooling system - its perfectly clear.
Maybe a wider engine issue?
:\
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Radiator cap not holding pressure?
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Radiator cap not holding pressure?
[/quoteThat was the cure to a similar problem I had. Genuine Yam cap not cheap, but been fine ever since.]
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no noticeable leakage from the cap :\
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Could not see anything about the refill tank but i assume all is good on that side.
I all of the cooling system runs water thru it i would probably go check the bike on a dyno so it does not run to lean.
It do seem as it raises heat more and more. Does the overheat come quicker if you ride hard?
//MA
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no noticeable leakage from the cap :\
You might not see a leak but the system relies on pressure to raise the boiling point of the coolant. If it’s not holding pressure it could potentially cause an overheat situation. Not saying this is definitely the cause but I’ve had similar with other vehicles caused by a failed cap.
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Killerwhale - harder (faster) cools it down - slow riding in town sees it creeping up
Trebus - I've ordered a new cap
Update to follow.....
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traced the problem (tbc when I fit a new one £££) - intermittent fault with temp sensor - took it out and tested (with pan of water on stove) and multimeter - all good - fkin thing! Tested again got to 80 degC (resistance in spec - lowering with increased temp) this time with heat removed (temp reducing) so did the resistance (which would have read as increased temperature in error. Bastid. New sensor £68 from Fowlers :eek managed to find one (OEM new) on Ebay for £35.
Anyhow this convinced me to but another bike - VFR1200R !
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NOT the temp sensor the new one shows the same hysteresis as the old one - so still stumped....
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Mate long time no speak :)
Taking into account you've ruled out thermostat and temp switch.
How old is the bike?
Check the following: -
Drain the system, how much coolant are you actually getting out?
What coolant WAS in it, colour?
What colour are the hose internals even the bypass hoses?
What's the coolant ratio in percentage?
Is there any sediment in what's was drained drained out is there any in the expansion tank?
It's very possible depending on age that someones drained the coolant and refilled with incorrect or not enough, or none at some point. This has induced corrosion/sediment and starting to block the rad thus reducing it's efficiency. Is the bike tuned or non standard in any way engine wise, chipped, got/had a power commander etc?
It's quite common especially with FZ1's people like to play!
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Gnasher - hauzitgaun?
Bike is 2007 with 42k
I drained coolant (it was pink - I'd done it when dropping the rad a couple of years ago to replace plugs - will be doing that again shortly..)
Coolant was pre-mixed (i.e. not solution +makeup water)
Everthing was/is clean - I flushed with Radflush and nothing - hoses and rad all clean internally
No tuning mods (excl downgearing + speedohealer)
Now since my last post I drained again and then refilled - this time forcing antifreeeze in through rad cap hole (with a plastic container and flexi nozzle which a 'tight' fit in the rad cap hole) - this seems to have fixed it but it still creeps up to 103°C when standing after a run...I was hence thinking an airlock?
Not sure how it has come about though, as when it first happened it was like a switch - suddenly overtemp light on (which initially I was thinking WTF is the low oil pressure warning on before I realised it was temp!) - at that point it was at 120°!!
I'll take it out again maybe tonight (I'm using the VFR at the moment :) [size=78%]) and will record the temperature fluctuation more rigorously and report (this is infuriating the fek outa me!)[/size]
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What is the average tempurature range for the FZ1? mine always runs between 95-105 C.
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Gnasher - hauzitgaun?
All good my end mate thanks.
I drained coolant (it was pink - I'd done it when dropping the rad a couple of years ago to replace plugs - will be doing that again shortly..)
Coolant was pre-mixed (i.e. not solution +makeup water)
Everthing was/is clean - I flushed with Radflush and nothing - hoses and rad all clean internally
Looks like you opted for OAT or HOAT, and premix that shouldn't give you any problems and no suspended sediment. That could still point to a few blocked channels.
I was hence thinking an airlock?
It could still be just that mate. How much coolant are you getting in, is a real indicator? A few blocked channels will cause airlocks and reduce the cooling performance quite a bit and the difference can only be a few 100ml. The lack of free circulation will cause the trapped air to expand and effectively block a significant proportion of the rad and when they suffer this, it is like you say "just like switch".
Drain the whole system completely, release as many hoses as possible that sit at a bottom run and any others that could form traps. Now refill the system, after you've got it correctly filled/bled and been for a run wait until it's stone cold, check the expansion tank top up if required, check the rad cap level. How much have you got in compared to spec?
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@gnasher, also long time no see.
@Moff, have you checked the thermostat is working and at what temp..?
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@gnasher, also long time no see.
Yes mate, work life balance and all that.
@Moff, have you checked the thermostat is working and at what temp..?
He changed it mate ;)
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He changed it mate
Well I know I was able to get the fan cut in temp changed to a lower setting in the ECu on my GSF1250, so I assume the same thing can be done on the FZ1..?
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drained again (took rad off to replace coil sticks and spark plugs - no more misfiring :thumbup
spec says 2.4 litres of coolant - which is exactly the amount I filled with
sat in the yard it ran fine - fan cutting in and out with temp going down/up accordingly
went for a blast - all good temp <98 all the time (albeit it was foccin cold and wet yesterday)
so in summary sorted - still unsure as to cause - maybe airlock after initially replacing thermostat? and original issue: maybe duff radiator cap?
anyway he's happy now (Freddie Fazer) nestled together in the barn with Hettie Honda (occasionally giving her a disapproving look ;) )
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- maybe airlock
- maybe duff radiator cap?
- prolly this
- If the cap was duff you would have spotted coolant leaking out I would have thought.
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Glad you sorted it Moff, sounds like typical air lock to me :)