Author Topic: Car oil? (Read 8501 times)

dickturpin · « **on:** 01 January 2016, 10:39:48 am »

I know some will sceam in horror...but I understand that some use car oil in their bikes because of the 'rip off' bike oil prices.
With that in mind I have looked at different oils but generally they appear to be suitable for petrol and diesel engines which is a reason not to use and also any oil with 'friction modifiers'
So the question is what brands are you using that don't contain additives or diesel suitability?

HNY everyone!

D

Slaninar · « **Reply #1 on:** 01 January 2016, 11:36:16 am »

1000 cc and skimping on oil?

On a car, the last thing I'd skimp on is oil.

With a motorcycle, I add tyres as well.

For a sport, recreation motorcycle, add suspension and brakes to the save a penny, loose a pound list.

This one has sloppy factory suspension, rather cheap tyres, but even there I use fully synthetic motorcycle (marketed) oil. I do always buy on discount, well in advance, but never use cheap oil. JASO MA2 for the clutch and fully synthetic.

Expensive oils are a ripoff - both for a car and bike, but I have no way of testing an oil. Not a laboratory, nor a test vehicle to run it for 100.000 km and measure wear compared to more expensive oils.

darrsi · « **Reply #2 on:** 01 January 2016, 11:53:37 am »

You don't have to splash out on the mega expensive bike oils, although i refuse to use car oil as i had an issue before with another bike with a slipping clutch.
Just make sure you change it within the recommended mileage limits, and all will be good.
The 600's have a 6000 mile limit, but i tend to change it between 4-5000 miles, but that's just personal choice.
I can't imagine the 1000's being too much different though, if at all.

celticdog · « **Reply #3 on:** 01 January 2016, 12:20:17 pm »

I really don't think it's worth taking the risk of foccing up your clutch for a few quid. I use that motul stuff, It's a little over £20 for 4 litres.

Frosties · « **Reply #4 on:** 01 January 2016, 12:28:18 pm »

Quote from: celticdog on 01 January 2016, 12:20:17 pm

I really don't think it's worth taking the risk of foccing up your clutch for a few quid. I use that motul stuff, It's a little over £20 for 4 litres.

Realistically we are talking £40-50 a year for a medium/high user. You may save a tenner a year on car oil - totally pointless to me.

Like Slaninar, I also add tyres - might be £140 a set for a mediocre set or £200 for a quality set. Add pads to that list aswell. But it's your money....

topgun44 · « **Reply #5 on:** 01 January 2016, 12:45:48 pm »

I use car oil 10/40w 12 pound for 5 litres

for last 5 years on my faze 600 and my Zzr 600 2 years and I been riding for last 28 years know and guess what yes I use car oil on all off my bikes in them years

and I never have clutch slip or bike go bang on me yet I must be lucking

I think not stick it in ride dame thing happy new year

dickturpin · « **Reply #6 on:** 01 January 2016, 01:55:03 pm »

It's an interesting debate...I do use quality tyres pr2 or 3 and ebc pads etc etc and I won't risk damaging the bike with the wrong oil but why pay more for the same thing? Are we being fooled by the sales blurb...I tend to think so. The fazer manual doesn't even require semi synth oil bot most tend to use it even though Yamaha don't specify it
I'm just opening the debate....and asking what car oils are being used

D

chaz · « **Reply #7 on:** 01 January 2016, 02:07:03 pm »

What I want to know is at what point does oil become either car oil or bike oil? does it come from different oil wells, don't think so, does it go to different refineries, doubt it, does it have different additives, yes it can have a milage enhancer like PTFE and this could make your clutch slip, does it undergo different testing, yes the grading is different (the letters and numbers) for car and bike oils but it doesn't mean the oil is different.
What we need is the person who puts the labels on the cans of oil to tells us the facts. I know bike engines tend to rev higher than cars do but which has to do the most work, a 1000cc bike at 200Kg plus max of 2 people or a 1400cc car around 1000Kg plus up to 5 (or more) people?
Oh and I use GTX 10/40w semi in my FZ6 which is around £23 but the last lot I bought at £10 for 4 litres at wilco's in a sale and also got some 15/40w for my other bike at half price in 1 litre packs as it takes 5 litres.

fatbloke62 · « **Reply #8 on:** 01 January 2016, 03:02:22 pm »

I use halfords 10/40 semi synthetic motorcycle oil in the bike but as I only do about 4000 max a year when I change the bikes oil I keep it and it goes a long way in my diesel car's oil change as its the same spec so I only add 2L of new oil to the car and change it a little bit sooner

fazersharp · « **Reply #9 on:** 01 January 2016, 03:42:51 pm »

I use vegetable oil in the engine, cotton wool for an air filter, and to save even more money I use elastic bands around the wheel rims

Frosties · « **Reply #10 on:** 01 January 2016, 03:49:18 pm »

Quote from: fazersharp on 01 January 2016, 03:42:51 pm

I use vegetable oil in the engine, cotton wool for an air filter, and to save even more money I use elastic bands around the wheel rims

Sunflower oil is cheaper, belly button fluff more effective and silicone sealant lasts longer

Slaninar · « **Reply #11 on:** 01 January 2016, 03:50:00 pm »

Quote from: fazersharp on 01 January 2016, 03:42:51 pm

I use vegetable oil in the engine, cotton wool for an air filter, and to save even more money I use elastic bands around the wheel rims

No need to be ironic. I'm more than interested to know someone used a car oil in a fazer and the engine was fine for 100.000 miles. Really. Wouldn't risk testing it on my engine, but if it's worked, I'd love to know the make and model of the good enough cheap oil! Most of it is a ripoff and marketing, just wouldn't risk it for the price difference.

dickturpin · « **Reply #12 on:** 01 January 2016, 04:03:00 pm »

No need to be ironic. I'm more than interested to know someone used a car oil in a fazer and the engine was fine for 100.000 miles. Really. Wouldn't risk testing it on my engine, but if it's worked, I'd love to know the make and model of the good enough cheap oil! Most of it is a ripoff and marketing, just wouldn't risk it for the price difference.

I agree...sure its marketing to increase the price if it says
'Bike' on the label
But I also seek reassurance before trying it on my pride and joy!

darrsi · « **Reply #13 on:** 01 January 2016, 04:33:40 pm »

Get some of this and be done with it.
As you just said it's your "pride and joy" so i don't understand why you would begrudge it a few extra quid anyway?
I could understand if we were on about brake discs or rear shocks for a price check, but not for 20 odd quid that'll last you 6000 miles.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shell-Advance-AX7-10W-40-Four-Stroke-Motorcycle-4T-10W40-Engine-Oil-4-Litres-4L-/181244295991?hash=item2a33007b37:g:GYgAAOxyyq5TLDrk

fazersharp · « **Reply #14 on:** 01 January 2016, 04:44:22 pm »

I think more to the point about a rip off is why don't they do a 3 l bottle for bikes and a 5 l bottle for cars

darrsi · « **Reply #15 on:** 01 January 2016, 04:57:52 pm »

Quote from: fazersharp on 01 January 2016, 04:44:22 pm

I think more to the point about a rip off is why don't they do a 3 l bottle for bikes and a 5 l bottle for cars

That's a very good shout, 2.7 litres with a filter change on a 600, and a tad more if you ever need to top up, which i never do anyway.

Here you go, an absolute bargain.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shell-Advance-SX2-2T-Motorcycle-Mineral-Engine-Oil-3x1L-3-Litre-/151320211439?hash=item233b632fef:g:xC0AAOxy7nNTT3q-

dickturpin · « **Reply #16 on:** 01 January 2016, 05:02:32 pm »

Quote from: darrsi on 01 January 2016, 04:33:40 pm

Get some of this and be done with it.
As you just said it's your "pride and joy" so i don't understand why you would begrudge it a few extra quid anyway?
I could understand if we were on about brake discs or rear shocks for a price check, but not for 20 odd quid that'll last you 6000 miles.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shell-Advance-AX7-10W-40-Four-Stroke-Motorcycle-4T-10W40-Engine-Oil-4-Litres-4L-/181244295991?hash=item2a33007b37:g:GYgAAOxyyq5TLDrk

Thank you for the link....ordered...

I would still like to know about the difference...if any....with the car oils.

D

blackcabbie · « **Reply #17 on:** 01 January 2016, 06:02:51 pm »

I've always used wilko 10w40 semi synthetic in my fazer 1000. Change it every 3k with filter change every 6k. £15 for 5 litres

slappy · « **Reply #18 on:** 01 January 2016, 06:42:04 pm »

I just changed my oil last week, Halfords 10/40 semi synthetic bike oil, £28.98 for 4 litres.
I think I need to shop around a bit more!

chris.biker · « **Reply #19 on:** 01 January 2016, 08:37:47 pm »

To add practical experience to this, I have a 600cc Honda Hornet (so not a fazer) but I have done 47,000 mile using semi synthetic car engine oil, the API standard is better than the quality stated in my Haynes manual. I do not mind sharing this info as I will run the bike till it is passed any resale value, as I have done with all the vehicles I have owned.

Slaninar · « **Reply #20 on:** 02 January 2016, 08:14:54 am »

Quote from: chris.biker on 01 January 2016, 08:37:47 pm

To add practical experience to this, I have a 600cc Honda Hornet (so not a fazer) but I have done 47,000 mile using semi synthetic car engine oil, the API standard is better than the quality stated in my Haynes manual. I do not mind sharing this info as I will run the bike till it is passed any resale value, as I have done with all the vehicles I have owned.

That's what I've done with my vehicles. Seems practical to me. Hate buying and selling.

Anyway, what oil are you using?

The Rocketeer · « **Reply #21 on:** 02 January 2016, 08:37:43 pm »

Nowt wrong with halfords oil, think it's more important to change your oil & filter regularly.

crickleymal · « **Reply #22 on:** 04 January 2016, 10:03:44 am »

I used car oil in my Divvy for a number of years and so do a lot of people on the Divvy forum. It seems to be ok for that use. I tried Halfords semi synth bike oil when I had a ZZR and it was rubbish, the gear change was definitely worse so I stopped using it. That said I've put a bit in at this oil change because I didn't have quite enough of the Castrol semi synth to fully top it up.

Isn't the difference between car and bike oil down to friction modifiers and their use with a wet clutch? With something low powered like a Divvy it might not matter, with more power through the clutch it might.

chaz · « **Reply #23 on:** 04 January 2016, 04:13:06 pm »

After reading loads of stuff on the net which is mostly years out of date, it seams that the main differance between car and bike oil is the fact that most but not all unit construction bikes use the engine oil to lube the gear box. Pre-unit construction (seperate gearbox and engine sump) and many unit construction bikes from the 1950's onwards used an EP oil (extreme presure) for the gears.
It's the shear effect that breaks the oil down? and shortens the effective life of the oil, now there is the point if with modern semi and synthetic oils if it has any adverse effect if the oil is changed every 6,000 miles.
A few years when I got a new works van the FIRST service was at (from what I can remember) 26,000 miles or one year. A motorbike would be on its 5th service at that rate? if it did that milage.
So should you use bike oil..........YES.........will it make a differance ..........that's up to you?

fazersharp · « **Reply #24 on:** 04 January 2016, 04:23:13 pm »

Quote from: chaz on 04 January 2016, 04:13:06 pm

A few years when I got a new works van the FIRST service was at (from what I can remember) 26,000 miles or one year. A motorbike would be on its 5th service at that rate? if it did that milage.

Maybe instead of mileage and the oil it would be fairer to compare engine revolutions when comparing cars against bikes