Date: 05-05-24  Time: 18:54 pm

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Topics - Dman2019

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1
FZS600 Fazer / Cam Chain tensioner removal/installation process
« on: 19 February 2024, 06:24:57 am »
Morning all, 
I need to change the cam chain tensioner due to the rattle that I have.
I have watched a few YouTube videos.  Most say to put the engine in top dead centre before removing the cam tensioner.
I read the Haynes manual and it just said to take it out.  No mention of putting the engine in TDC
I have read some forums and haven't seen anyone mention putting it in TDC


What is everyone's thoughts? 


Cheers

2
FZS600 Fazer / Brake hoses/pipes
« on: 21 December 2023, 08:54:29 am »
Morning.


Does anyone know the length of all the original brake hoses/pipes?


Are they measured by the hose/pipe without the banjos or are the banjos included in the overall length?


Lastly has anyone bought brake hoses/pipes from Amazon? If so are they any good?


Cheers

3
FZS600 Fazer / Front Brake Pipes
« on: 30 May 2022, 12:38:05 pm »
Hi guys.
Im going to change the brake lines front and back and it looks like the original line from the front master cylinder to the front wheel splitter has been changed before.
Does anyone know the original pipes length as the one on there seems a but long?
I like the bike to be as standard as possible but new brake pipes wont be the same, but would like to keep the same lengths of pipe
Cheers
Darren

4
FZS600 Fazer / Technical name / engine caps
« on: 27 April 2021, 09:11:43 am »
Hi all,


I'm looking at removing the engine to do some work on it and to clean it up/spray it.


Instead of putting rags in the air intakes/exhausts outlets I was thinking of getting plastic caps for them.


Any ideas what they are called?  I have tried several searches/called them different things but cannot find them.


Anyone bought these before and can recommend a company to get them from?


Thanks


Darren

5
FZS600 Fazer / Clutch change query
« on: 01 September 2020, 05:02:44 pm »
Hi again, i changed the clutch plates and put new springs in it as well, put it all back together as it should be but the clutch leaver is very soft, very little resistance when you let the leaver go.


I adjusted the free play on the handle bar and found out how to do the engine side free play (the screw is as far out as I would dare leave it be) but it hasnt done much to the resistance.


I tried a gentle test as i could on the centre stand and it seemed to change gears ok.


Is this lack of resistance normal? I dont remember the clutch lever being like this when i did the same thing on my previous triumph 900?


Any ideas? Cheers guys

6
FZS600 Fazer / Silent front sprocket - how to fit
« on: 04 June 2020, 11:25:14 am »
Hi, decided to try a silent front sprocket from JT as there wasn’t much in the price. Got it in front of me and its different on each side, one side is continuous rubber and the other side has two halfs of rubber.
Does it matter which way round it has to go on?
Full rubber ring facing the engine?
Cheers guys

7
FZS600 Fazer / Headlights
« on: 17 May 2020, 08:49:47 am »
Hi all, I’ve got a box head light fazer/mk1, early on I put spot lights on as the headlights are dim, This week I have done the head light conversion so both headlights are on for main beam. Headlights are still dim.
Has anyone changed the bulbs to led ones?
A mate gave me one to try a few years ago but it didn’t work in his bike or mine.
Spots are fine, just thought I’d see if Led bulbs work and to make me as visible as possible.
Can anyone recommend Led bulbs if they have worked?
Cheers

8
FZS600 Fazer / Carb problems or is it something more?? Fazer 600
« on: 15 January 2020, 12:50:30 pm »
Hope you guys can give me some ideas how to fix my bike Fazer 600, mark 1, 2000 reg


Last year I cleaned my bike with the engine running (due to previous issues with electrics on other bikes) and the fuel was lower that I thought.  Two days later I went to take the bike to get a rear tyre and the bike struggled to start and barley ride able.  Managed to get back from the tyre shop and clean the carbs up enough to get it working enough to go on my trip to Germany, Ok at motorway speeds but struggled on the lower speeds.


When I got back I gave the carbs to my mate who took them apart.  Said the Sliders/needles were a bit loose and could do with new ones.  Official replacements from Yamaha are worth half the cost of the bike and unable to find any kits that contain the jets etc but found a decent set of replacement carbs on ebay.  My mate has taken bits from both set of carbs and make the best we could into one set this has been sonic cleaned before reassembly.


Fitted the carbs but the pilots were not set to factory setting, balanced the carbs and the bike sounded back to normal.  While test driving it showed there was a problem.  Around 4.5 to 5000 rpm the bike struggles with acceleration and seems to stutter.  When you eventually get over the 5000rpm marker the bike takes off again.  This only happens when the bike warms up and you slowly accelerate.


If the bike is cold or you accelerate hard from a standing still there is no issue.  Talked to a few people and they advised just to ride the bike for around 500miles for the carb bits to bed in.  This made sense to me but I know the pilots were out.  Compared to what it was when I first had the problem is was certainly worth putting up with for the time being.


Finally had 5 mins to myself last weekend and the pilots had been playing on my mind, took the carbs off as I have no adjuster tool and reset the pilots to 2 turns out.  Put an inline fuel filter on as well as a back up to the original fuel filer and I can see if there is any issues with the fuel.  Balanced the carbs, all sounded good rev'd through the ranges etc.


Took it out last night.  Again when cold its like it was like before, accelerates through the previous problem of the stutter, fast and slow.... then the bike warms up and the issue is still there, plus a new one. 
When stopped at traffic the revs have started sticking at 2000 rpm,  I play with the rev adjuster on the carbs and it settles down again but this kept happening a few times.


Lastly when on tick over the rev counter pusles and bobs up and down a little.  Idle rev's sett to the manual.  This never happened before


Any ideas what to do next?


As the issue seems to be when the engine warms up is it now something with the engine as the carbs seem fine when its cold and when being rev'd in the garage.


A further note, the book says to set the carbs between 230 to 250mm but when I have balanced them and my mate has balanced them they only go to 125mm.  I can't see how to get them any where close the service manual's recommendation.


Penny for your thoughts, Ive looked at several forum notes and not sure what to do next.


Cheers

Darren

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