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Messages - elbrownos
1
« on: 11 August 2016, 11:36:45 am »
13 Aug: asking price dropped price to £999I'm moving overseas so have to sell my Fazer.
See photos at http://www.motorcyclenews.com/bikes-for-sale/yamaha/fzs600-fazer/7672319/
All offers considered!
Bike Make : YamahaBike Model : FZS600 Fazer FoxeyeYear : 2002Price : £999MOT July 2017Mileage : 29,500 milesColour : BlueOverall Bike Condition : Good condition, no accidents. Stainless downpipes. Bit of paint flaking on engine and frame, small dent on fuel tank. Tyre/Chain/Sprocket Condition : Good, less than half worn. Service History/Receipts/Recent Service work : All history availableNon Restricted Bike Location : Steyning, West Sussex BN44Contact details: Laurence / elbrownos@gmail.com / 078 1563 1433
2
« on: 13 October 2014, 01:48:36 pm »
I use muffs + heated grips + summer gloves. Ride all winter no problems.
Tucano Urbano muffs are rigid.
Get over yourself and buy some decent muffs, like everybody is telling you. "Winter gloves" are a con.
3
« on: 15 September 2014, 09:52:02 pm »
Sorry mate I've sold it already
4
« on: 13 September 2014, 04:55:47 pm »
SOLD Morgan Carbtune Pro 4 cylinder model Brand new condition. I've used it once and don't expect to need one again for a while. Costs £64 new. Selling for £40 + postage Can collect from Nottingham Includes pouch, hoses, adapters, removable cable tie, instruction book Photos here: https://imgur.com/a/caeKk
5
« on: 15 July 2014, 11:09:13 pm »
Out of interest, why do people think it's so important to replace it?
I've done dozens of oil changes, never changed the washer, never had even a drip.
It's not like there's any pressure behind it.
6
« on: 07 July 2014, 11:14:26 pm »
Suggested method of collection: a powerful magnet
7
« on: 03 June 2014, 11:15:01 am »
I almost always use car oil and have had absolutely no problems.
Always 10w40 semi synthetic changed every 4k miles.
Currently using Halfords brand. More often I use Castrol GTX.
8
« on: 22 April 2014, 01:08:15 pm »
(Incidentally I was going to have a to at changing the chain and sprockets myself but reading the Haynes manual and I reckon it's a bigger job than a novice like me can approach --- £235 all incl from the dealer and they'll do it for me in approx 90 mins)
That sounds steep. A decent chain & sprockets set costs £80. £155 for 90 minutes labour??
9
« on: 16 April 2014, 07:20:13 pm »
There's a photo of my headlight tape on this page: http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,9266.msg92799.html#msg92799It doesn't make any noticeable difference to the brightness. Regarding the other question, I have no idea what you're talking about. My foxeye has H4 bulbs left and right. Dipped or high beam, they are always both on. I think the previous owner modified it though because he said something about unplugging one of them before getting an MOT. I've never bothered and it hasn't mattered.
10
« on: 15 April 2014, 11:15:29 pm »
Your headlights will be pointing the wrong way.
Mine's a German import so I need bits of black tape on the lights to make it legal for UK, presumably you will need the same.
11
« on: 07 April 2014, 08:53:16 pm »
12
« on: 03 April 2014, 08:41:27 pm »
80 MPH in 6th is approximately 6400 RPM, by going up one tooth on the front, this drops to 6000 RPM
That doesn't sound right, I've got standard gearing and 80 mph in 6th is nearly 7k rpm as ElkWorks says.
13
« on: 26 March 2014, 10:33:34 pm »
Indicators always flash at double speed when a bulb is blown/missing/etc..
It's the same with cars.
14
« on: 17 March 2014, 06:10:21 pm »
15
« on: 11 March 2014, 10:25:43 pm »
Damn that's a lot of salt! You guys must salt your roads really heavily. You don't don't see that sort of build up from the roads in Ireland
Even when it's 10° and no snow forecast. I love it 
16
« on: 11 March 2014, 10:22:52 pm »
I sorted this, it was air.
I thought it might be a bubble at the top of the master cylinder, so I took the caliper off (leaving the hose attached) and held it above the master cylinder while bleeding. Problem solved!
17
« on: 11 March 2014, 07:55:15 pm »
You don't need a vacuum bleeder for replacing the brake fluid because you're just flushing the old fluid out with new fluid.
Unless you do it wrong, you won't get any air into the system.
18
« on: 09 March 2014, 12:11:55 pm »
That makes no sense, you can't chrome stainless.
19
« on: 08 March 2014, 01:24:17 pm »
Got my motads from motad for £170 including postage. I don't see how the others can be £100 less than that!?
20
« on: 26 February 2014, 08:28:50 pm »
Just flushing through to the bleed nipples. It worked fine after I overhauled the caliper so I don't think my technique is wrong.
The thing that puzzles me is that the braking performance deteriorated without me doing anything. Can air just get into the system by itself?
21
« on: 26 February 2014, 11:22:08 am »
My rear brake was great until a few months ago, I've got HH pads and had absolutely no problem locking it up.
I'm inclined to think air is the more likely explanation. Will have another really good go at bleeding it this weekend.
I don't really want to have to start messing around with the master cylinder. Why is it so hard to buy a kit for it???
22
« on: 25 February 2014, 11:01:13 pm »
I replaced all the caliper seals and pistons last April
23
« on: 25 February 2014, 10:27:49 pm »
My rear brake is conking out on me.
In the last couple of months it's gotten very weak and spongy.
As I ride in winter, I figured one of the pistons has siezed as usual.
So I pulled it off and cleaned the pistons (they didn't seem to be siezed after all) and put it back on.
No difference, actually if anything a little worse.
So I figure it must be the hose getting weak and bulging (it's original). Put a new HEL braided hose on last week, bled the system.
No difference, actually if anything a little worse.
So that leaves two options. Either I really do have air in the system, or the master cylinder is knackered.
What are the chances of the master cylinder being worn out? It's a 2002 model with 20k miles.
I figure I can test it by removing the hose from the output of the master cylinder and plugging the port. If it's still spongy then it's the master cylinder, if it's firm then it's air. Will try this on the weekend.
Is it a better option to buy a used master cylinder off ebay or overhaul my own? Not that I can even find an overhaul kit. Any tips?
Cheers
Elbrownos
24
« on: 02 January 2014, 10:21:07 pm »
Out of interest, how do you plan to take the chain off?
Isn't it a lot of work just to clean it.
25
« on: 30 December 2013, 12:19:48 pm »
Thanks gang
Busters said they have it in stock so I have bought one (standard not gold)
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