i will second the do not touch the studs i have 4 broken off hence why bike is off the road possibly for good.


The studs are very weak and corrode like mad if you can get the nuts off great if not cut slots in the nuts open them up as getting the studs out is pain in the ass big time.


My bike has stainless manifold, great but the ham fisted way it was fitted wrecked the studs.


As said get the connector bolts lots of thread to grip and do not over tighten the studs are made of cheese.

Make sure you get the oil level correct.
The forks without adjusters on the top take more oil than ones that do have them.
The air gap is the easier way to get the equal levels right on both sides.
I personally prefer 15W fork oil instead of the standard 10W, i found it a lot more stable.


98/99 models (without fork adjusters on top):
475cc oil 121mm air gap

00-03 models (with fork adjusters on top):


Great information, thanks for posting this!
465cc oil 132mm air gap


My bike is a 2000 model but i swapped my forks with earlier model ones without the adjusters, so i have to remember to put the correct amount in each time.

Very glad to hear things went well and hope you have a lovely festive break

plot thickens. might be non oem down pipes then but been there long enough to seize so badly the studs shear off.


Ah well when i get time over the festive break will clean it up and see about a stainless can and link pipe if i ever get the studs fixed


cheers

sorry to jump on this tread, there was mention of magnet test for the headers, mine is 2001 model boy eye, the down pipes are stainless manky but stainless and magnets do not stick, the only magnet part is the link pipe attached to the end can, the can itself has stainless outer at least, but the pipe going into as said is black mild steel. Down pipes up to the joint are stainless.


is this an oem set up? the end can is oem, going by the seized and sheared exhaust bolts i think its original as well?

Best of luck with it and hope you have a full recovery, in some ways as you say useful it falls into the winter break, hope it does not put too much a dampener on festivities

Thanks for the reply, fair point about the carbon content of the bolts i am used to working on larger stuff it is an issue there basically in the nuclear or aviation sectors once heat is applied the studs are junked and NDT performed on the casting.
Given its -2 here just now the idea behind running the engine was to get heat into the head, as it stone cold just yes mapp torch can do the same job but takes a LONG time as the engine is very big heat sink.
Will have a go when I have more time the oil pipe is so close to a stud I think it will need to come off. The radiator is not that much of an issue as angle allows access under it but the water hoses and pipes could do with being removed.
Bought this as a cheap toy its so far nothing but trouble, but I knew it had 2 bad studs so should have done my research, as not a big issue on most car engines mostly.

Thanks for all the comments reassuring that the engine does not need to come out at least.

very true that would be a ball ache SS is a bugger to drill out.


The 2 studs I have out so far are coated in what looks like exhaust past paste, definitely not galling or the white corrosion i was expecting. This might explain why the Mapp gas torch was having no effect as exhaust paste doesn't break down with heat.


Someone has definitely been at this before only 2 original double depth nuts were fitted all the rest were normal nuts with a lock nut.


One stud is stainless even it took huge shock loading to break free again was coated in what looks like exhaust paste, ran a tap down the head cleared it out all seems fine at least.


Just 6 more to go!   

Well this bike keeps kicking my ass!


manged to get 2 of 8 studs out so far the most outer on each side, one with heat, few sharp blows and double nut method.


went and purchased a roll type extractor the 3 pins in sized socket type, worked great on the only stud it can get into!


Either the frame fouls the use of the extractor or the engine casing itself blocks access.


Not taken the radiator or forks off yet as not convinced it will help the access is fouled by the frame not the radiator.


Have tried heat and sharp knock on a couple just stripping the nuts out if i try the 2 nut method, will spin both nuts on the stud before it budges.


Short of taking the engine out and drilling them all out any obvious tricks I am missing? I don;t have a welder to hand to weld a nut onto the stud, plus concerned it will work harden the stud making it hard to drill out .


So now have 6 studs still in place 3 full height but badly corroded and 3 sheared off about half way down still about 10mm showing, cent even get a pipe wrench in to apply brute force an shear off flush or below.


my only other thought is apply silly amounts of heat to the head around the stud and use m6 connector nuts cut to size with a locknut on the end, the theory being the increased surface area like a double height nut will grip more thread area and less likely to just spin.


open to suggestions of those who have endured this pain.


other answer is break it for parts try and get something back on it

what did i do today freeze my b*llocks off in -7 temp, at least the bikes are tucked up safe and warmish in the garage, when i have to scrape ice off the car not interested in sliding out on the bikes haha

Thanks for the advice and directly me to the downloads really helpful having workshop manual to check on.


So slide the front wheel out backward towards the bike to avoid snagging the speedo drive?


As I have enough stud left to get a couple of nuts on will try heat and shock first, due to to location not certain i could drill dead centre and the engineer in me would go nuts about that haha


looks like the oil return pipe will need to come off especially if applying heat, is there a risk in touching this ie should I leave well alone/ clearly this will need the oil drained out? 


so looking at removing seat and tank (couple of bolts turn off the tap remove hose?)  draining the oil and the water.


undo do brake calipers hang up to stop flex an brake lines. Undo front axle and pinch bolts, tap out spindle ease wheel backwards to avoid damage to speedo sensor, remove mudguard undo pinch bolts and drop out forks.


radiator remove hoses undo retaining bolts drop out.


apart from obvious thing like hose clips etc have i missed anything major?


cheers
Alan

cheers will have a go when I have time if taking the radiator off gives better access might have joy with whats left of the studs with a blow torch and freezing spray try and shock it free plus a wee tap with hammer

Well after a week of applying penetrating oil, that the exhaust off, sheared another stud with literally no force, they are badly rotten and have zero strength left.


So net result have 3 sheared exhaust studs if looking at the bike front  from left to right on the inner or no.2 cylinder both were snapped when i bought it going by the black marks on the down pipes had been this way for a bit and the flange was rattling down at the bottom of the down pipes.  no.3 cylinder inner most stud sheared.


Sods law the easy to access 1 and 4 cylinder came off, studs looks rough 1 has been replaced looks new compared to the rest.


Access is not great, is there mileage in draining the coolant and removing the radiator?


on no.2 the access is really poor due what looks like an oil scavenge pip that runs form the sump to the head, obviously I would need to drain the oil to do this.


Question I am asking is will this give any better access as the frame looks to be in the way also?


Am I kidding myself on or is this an engine out job?


The studs sheared flush with the flanges so have just about 2 nuts depth left sticking out, but if they are that soft I imagine they will just shear flush with block if tried.


I don't have a welder at home to try welding a nut on and spin them off


reading this forum seems some have had a real nightmare with this?


Open to all suggestions or experience on this


thanks


Alan