Bikes, Hints'n'Tips > FZS600 Fazer
Rear Brake Service Kit
Middy2000:
The time has come where my rear brake is now longer functioning as it should. To my knowledge it's never needed any remedial work so it's time to have it serviced.
Lacking the skills to do it myself I'm entrusting my local garage with it. The said it would be cheaper to get a kit myself.
Question is....do I need the full kit with bleed nipple etc... or just a kit with the seals? I'm going to have the pistons changed too.
Been advised to avoid Ebay ones as they aren't the best but I'll be guided by yourselves on that front?
And advice on kits would be most welcome. And pads whilst I'm there.....
Gnasher:
The kit/s are available from Yamaha these are with and without pistons
1. A piston and seals (one side) is 51L-W0057-00 £71.71 last time I bought and fitted one, you'll need 2 kits if you want to replace both sides.
2. Seal kit this contains seals for both sides i.e. 2 main and 2 dust seals 51L-W0047-11 £38.33 last time I bought a kit.
You can get cheaper and almost same quality: -
Yambits
Piston and seal kit £19.99 https://yambits.co.uk/fzs600-fazer-brake-caliper-piston-kit-rear-p-27154.html
Seal kit £5.99 you need 2 of them https://yambits.co.uk/fzs600-fazer-brake-caliper-piston-seal-kit-rear-p-18070.html
If you or the stealer are going to do the job properly, the caliper should be be split. In which case I would recommend you also replace the caliper body seal Yamaha don't supply this. They either intend the body isn't split (possible but harder and needs specialist tools to do the job, to guarantee not damaging the pistons) or reused, Which is possible but often the seal has become hardened and won't reseal properly if reused.
In which case you need this from Yambits £2.99 https://yambits.co.uk/fzs600-fazer-brake-caliper-body-fluid-seal-rear-p-92407.html of the same part can be obtained from Suzuki's GS500 rear caliper.
These kits from Yambits are good quality although not as good as OE, it's personal choice and pocket depth.
There is others like Wemto but I personally don't use them, I found their quality to be crap and not much better or the same as crap cheap fleebay stuff.
Other parts may also be required if they can't be cleaned or are damaged
Pad pins you may need 2
Yamaha
4FL-25924-00 £10.74 each
Yambits
https://yambits.co.uk/fzs600-fazer-brake-caliper-pad-pin-kit-rear-p-55618.html £6.99
Bleed screws you may need 2
Yamaha
15BW004800 £13.45 each this includes the dust cap
Yambits
https://yambits.co.uk/fzs600-fazer-brake-caliper-bleed-nipple-rear-p-5935.html £2.99
https://yambits.co.uk/fzs600-fazer-bleed-screw-nipple-cover-p-29313.html £1.25
It's also possible the Pad support shim is corroded/broken
This is only available from Yamaha 51L-25919-00 £12.64
All that said the actual condition of the caliper bodies, pistons etc will determine what you actually need. Pistons can be cleaned and reused for example, the same may apply to bleed nipples, pad pins, dust cap and pad support.
Middy2000:
Thanks for that. My head is officially spinning.
Middy2000:
So an update.
Got told that a new motorcycle place had opened near me so i gave them a ring. They'd only been open a few days as a new business but had loads of experience between them.
Explained the issue and they knew the FZS and the caliper design fault.
Quoted £60 to supply and fit the service kit including pistons.
Dropped her off and 24hrs later get a call to say it's done.
They found a fair bit of corrosion so gave it a real good clean up and replaced seals etc & one piston.
They said they felt a bit bad charging £75 owing to the extra time cleaning up the caliper but they did notice my centre stand was stiff so took it off and regreased it and also topped up my tyre pressures. They'd obviously given the bike a good check over.
Brake feels spots on. They're getting an MOT bay next week so she'll be going back for that.
Cadwell Motorcycles Ltd
Louth
Lincolnshire
NJD:
I've only just seen this but just to give my two cents...
You were quoted sixty pounds and then told seventy-five, that's a joke: both the amount and them changing price. Them also doing work on your bike that you didn't ask them too would grind my gears. You never really need to remove the centre stand at all, but agree it does get stiff. Just simply lye down on the ground and spray water or brake cleaner or degreaser into the middle of the mounting bolt on either side whilst working the stand with your hand up and down and it will eventually free and work as normal. Never try to remove it at home, the things a pain in the arse to fit.
Getting a track pump from halfords or alike with a PSI gauge on and topping the tyres up once a week is usually enough. Make sure you do it before a ride when the tyres are cold.
The job doesn't take twenty-four hours, that's just them being lazy. It takes an hour or two at most. Here's what you'll need for next time:
brake piston seal kit
brake fluid DOT 4
brake bleeder
sealey brake caliper tool
Then the standard socket (14 mm) and an allen key to get the bottom holding bolts out. A baby seringe from a pharmacy to reverse bleed the caliper usually speeds up the job to get the air out the system before bleeding conventionally.
You wont need to replace the pistons again in the time that you own the bike if you clean them regualrly, don't be fooled into thinking its normal to buy them every time.
Remember to take the calliper off the bike (that doesn't mean take the brake hose off) and clean the brake every nown and again. It will gunk up inside because of how its located, but that doesn't mean it needs rebuilding. Simply take the pads out, pump the pistons a little and spray the brake cleaner and clean with a toothbrush (get a pack of four for £1 from anywhere so you've got spares), push back in with sealey tool and then put brake pads back in with copper grease on the back, put pins in then pump rear brake pedal and jobs done.
You only need to rebuild the caliper (minus pistons) every year or two.
Save yourself money and always rebuild the rear on your own: simply take the caliper off the bike, remove the pads and then pump the pistons out with a block of wood or something in the middle so they come out evenly. Then use a pair of caliper piston pliers to wriggle them free.
The front brake calipers is where you need a shop since you usually have to do one side then the other and that means tkaing them off, rebuild attaching to bike bleeding and then again on the other side: or compressed air if you've got it.
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