Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => FZS600 Fazer => Topic started by: psyfi_1 on 02 May 2018, 12:34:42 pm
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sprocket cover clutch adjuster stuck any suggestions on getting it loose........
or
whats the name of the clutch pulley mechanisim in the clutch cover need to buy and cant find the right name for it......
some nice idiot used lock tight on the screw and nut on the clutch adjust
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Get the whole cover for £20 on Ebay
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yeh really limited in funds at the moment..........
if i put to much tension on the adjuster will it break??
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You sure it’s got Loctite on, i can’t imagine anyone using it there?
Mine is full of grease where i greased the bearings.
With a proper 6 sided socket you’ll have a better chance of removing it.
Have a good read of this as well though.
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,10124.msg105459.html#msg105459 (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,10124.msg105459.html#msg105459)
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Thought it sounded familiar :lol
http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,18632.0.html (http://foc-u.co.uk/index.php/topic,18632.0.html)
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Just been doing some reading up on this issue and also removing the clutch actuator mechanism from the case, it seems so many have had issues rounding off the small cross point screws, along with a lot of others on the Fazers.
I have only just heard of JIS screws and drivers, apparently the JIS driver and screws have a sharper point and a slightly different profile to the British Phillips driver and screws, that is the reason so many round off as the Phillips driver does not reach down to the bottom of the screws profile.
You learn something new every day, just ordered myself a set of JIS drivers, expensive for a set of three driver but but emotionally cheap compared to when one of the foccing heads round off. :'(
I am guessing that the screw driver that is supplied in the Yamaha tool kit is a JIS one, so, I will fit a metal handle to that one and use it as a pound through driver and give screw a good clout with a hammer before trying to undo the in future, maybe put twisting pressure on the home made driver and clout it.
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if it has locktite on it then heat it that will soften the locktite then it will free off
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Only needs nipping up, Loctite would be totally unnecessary.
But saying that, i had a new valve put in my rear wheel a couple of months ago and whoever did it Loctited the dust cap on which I wasn’t too impressed about?
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Only needs nipping up, Loctite would be totally unnecessary.
But saying that, i had a new valve put in my rear wheel a couple of months ago and whoever did it Loctited the dust cap on which I wasn’t too impressed about?
lol never heard of anyone doing that before :rollin :rollin :rollin
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laser-7036-4-Piece-JIS-Screwdriver-Set/142773399122?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648#rwid (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laser-7036-4-Piece-JIS-Screwdriver-Set/142773399122?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648#rwid)
Link to JIS Screw driver set, reviews are good so time will tell.
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if it has locktite on it then heat it that will soften the locktite then it will free off
Now that's an interesting thought, if (and I don't doubt it for one minute) loc-tite softens to the point of letting go why do the advocates of loc-tite say you should put it on exhaust stud nuts. Copper slip is a much better option.
Sorry if this seems a little off subject but reading through earlier posts and following the links in those post you can see how I got here.
-
Just been doing some reading up on this issue and also removing the clutch actuator mechanism from the case, it seems so many have had issues rounding off the small cross point screws, along with a lot of others on the Fazers.
I have only just heard of JIS screws and drivers, apparently the JIS driver and screws have a sharper point and a slightly different profile to the British Phillips driver and screws, that is the reason so many round off as the Phillips driver does not reach down to the bottom of the screws profile.
You learn something new every day, just ordered myself a set of JIS drivers, expensive for a set of three driver but but emotionally cheap compared to when one of the foccing heads round off. :'(
I am guessing that the screw driver that is supplied in the Yamaha tool kit is a JIS one, so, I will fit a metal handle to that one and use it as a pound through driver and give screw a good clout with a hammer before trying to undo the in future, maybe put twisting pressure on the home made driver and clout it.
That's really interesting and I never knew that either.I have always blamed it on cheese screws.
-
Just been doing some reading up on this issue and also removing the clutch actuator mechanism from the case, it seems so many have had issues rounding off the small cross point screws, along with a lot of others on the Fazers.
I have only just heard of JIS screws and drivers, apparently the JIS driver and screws have a sharper point and a slightly different profile to the British Phillips driver and screws, that is the reason so many round off as the Phillips driver does not reach down to the bottom of the screws profile.
You learn something new every day, just ordered myself a set of JIS drivers, expensive for a set of three driver but but emotionally cheap compared to when one of the foccing heads round off. :'(
I am guessing that the screw driver that is supplied in the Yamaha tool kit is a JIS one, so, I will fit a metal handle to that one and use it as a pound through driver and give screw a good clout with a hammer before trying to undo the in future, maybe put twisting pressure on the home made driver and clout it.
That's really interesting and I never knew that either.I have always blamed it on cheese screws.
Yes I'm another that's been caught out by Jap screws, you live and learn :)
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if it has locktite on it then heat it that will soften the locktite then it will free off
Now that's an interesting thought, if (and I don't doubt it for one minute) loc-tite softens to the point of letting go why do the advocates of loc-tite say you should put it on exhaust stud nuts. Copper slip is a much better option.
Sorry if this seems a little off subject but reading through earlier posts and following the links in those post you can see how I got here.
it softens it to the point where you can unscrew it with the proper tools but it wont slacken by itself so it still does its job
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cheers guys i got the bitch out wd40 a little bit off heat and a breaker bar and it came off