If your side stand switch has been playing up before start there, test the switch by pushing the switch in the live should be cut on the return, if not loop the switch out e.g. disconnect it and loop the connection, does it start?Then the same with the clutch, does it start?
The neutral switch the same only it's a little plunger, located literally at the back of the gear box casing, it's the only electrical connection in that area.
If all the above are fine, check the battery,
I’d try checking the 12v at the starter motor when pressing the switch
Not sure on the FZ6 but most starter relays have a built in fuse and they can get corroded.
Yep, prod the wire at the starter and have the other end of the tester on the frame / engine bolts
If all the above are fine, check the battery, anything less the 12.6 it's needs a charge, once charged and you've started the bike check the voltage across the battery with the engine running, if less than 13, rev it if you get no increase, there's a problem with the charging system. If you get 13 and an increase in voltage, charging is fine, battery is likely issues. If the problem happens again it's a naff battery not holding charge.
Quick way to test the relay/starter quandary is to bridge the large terminals on the relay (I use a screwdriver or similar) Turn on the ignition, short the relay. If it turns it's the relay if it doesn't it's the starter but most likely will be the relay.
Nice rusty terminals there, could be part of your problem check the relay, they can and do get water in them.
Errm, that's not my starter relay, it's a picture I found online...!
Do some checks with your meter. Double check but ‘B’ should be battery and 'M' starter motor. Personally I’d check electrical operation rather than short it out. Clean up the terminals and connect it back to the battery but leave the starter motor lead off. Ignition on, in neutral and thumb the starter. You are looking for battery voltage at the starter motor lead. Then you can check control side of the relay if first test doesn’t work. As in, do you get 12v on the solenoid control when pressing the starter. Essentially all that relay does is move a contact over so the battery voltage reaches the starter motor through the thick leads.Normally you can hear the solenoid click in operation.
Quote from: Grahamm on 07 July 2020, 09:13:22 amErrm, that's not my starter relay, it's a picture I found online...! Check yours anyway they've have a habit of corroding and they don't always have rusty terminals.
Yes, but unless you connect all 4 it wont be fuse protected.
Have you checked the engine stop switch, grounded they give error code 12.
Literally all I'd do is bridge it for a couple of seconds to see if that gets the starter motor to turn.
You mean the kill switch by the throttle?I've not seen that mentioned anywhere else in my searches, but I can check it, however, as mentioned, as the bike will bump start, I don't think that's the problem.
Electrics on bikes are often linked in ways not detailed in the manual and error codes are notorious, reading them isn't always straight forward.
It's also possible you've got a intermittent crank sensor and/or connection, could be pickup rota, wet/corroded ECU connector or blown ECU, the later two are unlikely as you can bump start.
I've also seen a video which suggests that giving the starter motor a couple of (light!) taps with a hammer might help jolt something loose!
Quote from: Grahamm on 07 July 2020, 10:35:05 amI've also seen a video which suggests that giving the starter motor a couple of (light!) taps with a hammer might help jolt something loose!Percussive maintenance is always good
Seriously though, undo the big lead from the starter motor and see if you get 12v on that when you press the start button. If not, bashing the starter motor will not give you anything. If you do get 12v, you know the relay etc is good. If not, its time to trace back to the relay and check the fuses there, the output side, the input side and then the switch control to see where the failure is.