So, after having to cancel my planned Euro trip alas, I managed to salvage a short trip oop north this summer. 6 nights under canvas (or to be more accurate, sil-nylon
), and here's how it went:
Rode up to Hawes, Dales, on the first day, and parked up at a decent enough campsite. It was fairly busy, but no really noisy families/kids and as I was away from it all day for the couple of days there, it was ok.
On the first evening, did a short ride to Bolton Castle, roads empty and no one about:
And a view from the castle gardens:
Early morning mist burns off ready for another blisteringly hot day:
The first full day was about destinations to visit. No. 1 on my list was Middleham Castle:
Just a quick walk around, didn't bother with paying to go in as so much could be seen from the outside.
Then on to Jervaulx Abbey:
A really beautiful and tranquil place, this, in my view, is how to preserve old ruins like these. Overgrown in an orderly, but at the same time, semi-wild looking fashion, rather than plain manicured lawns right up to the walls - done this way, such places have much more atmosphere to them, not to mention being much more photogenic. Kids would love it here, with all the little corners and nooks and crannies to explore, and play in at will. A magical place.
Then, last destination of the day, Fountains Abbey:
Very extensive and impressive remains - I wound up with dozens of pics of this many-faceted ruin, but didn't have time to explore Studeley Royal gardens within the same site. Well worth a visit if this kind of thing appeals to you.
That evening, to take advantage of quieter roads, I did a loop: Hawes>Sedburgh>Kirkby Lonsdale>Settle>Horton-in-Ribblesdale>Hawes.
On the A684, through Garsdale, this is one of the great views to be had:
and a cracking stretch of tarmac it is too.
But my favourite roads of perhaps the whole trip were the B6479 and B6255, running from Settle and back to Hawes - absolutely sublime, and will definitely be on my list for any future trips to the region:
Day two was more about the riding. First off, a run over Buttertubs pass:
Then Middleton-in-Teesdale via Kirkby Stephen and Brough, with another couple of great, high moorland routes connecting them all.
Then it was the road to Alston, which was every bit as good as I remember it from a previous trip some years ago - highly recommended. Had a ciggy break at Cow Green reservoir:
From there I went on up to Hadrians Wall at Steel Rigg:
I had thought of stopping to take a gander at Housesteads Roman fort, but from the road the car park looked full, and I just couldn't be bothered to wade past crowds in that heat - 32deg C that day
Next day, it was on to the Lake District. Chose the A6 for a leisurely ride up by Shap - quite a nice stretch in places. Called at Shap Abbey:
Went to Keswick, and booked in at the campsite I'd used as one of my bases for my 2 month fell walking trip a couple of years ago. Much busier at this time of year, but only to be expected. But views from the campsite are great, it's handy for the town, and the facilities are good.
Just spent the afternoon lazing around the town, enjoying food and stops for coffee, a wander down by Derwent Water etc. No pics, as I took loads on my last trip, just visiting familiar places.
In the evening, I did a brief run down Borrowdale, over the Honister Pass, and back round via the Newlands Pass.
Honister:
then by way of Buttermere.
Haystacks is the further fell, Seat on the right:
I got so many great shots on my walking tour that I didn't bother much here, so a couple from then just to show the places:
Fleetwith Pike from Buttermere shore:
My favourite shot of the Newlands Valley:
Hindscarth on the left, with Scope End in the middle, Robinson on the right
which I didn't actually ride past on this loop, so just an opportunity for a gratuitous shot really
And another previous shot, but trying to stay more or less relevant; this is Newlands Pass (trying not to muddle up with the Newlands Valley - 2 different places) from the descent from Knott Rigg, Red Pike in the background, left:
Round by the foot of Catbells, headed back to Keswick, a look back (from this trip):
Monday morning, and the weather wasn't looking great, with heavy showers pushing in from over the Derwent Fells, so I had an early morning stroll to the top of Walla Crag, where some great views are to be had. Derwent Water:
Blencathra sulking in the clouds:
And the view towards Scafell, Great Gable etc, all also hiding in the clag:
So then I pretty much skulked in the tent and around the campsite whilst heavy showers followed one on the heels of another up until about lunchtime, when I thought, sod this, and rode into town for lunch. Then I did a loop around to the coast road, via Cockermouth, Whitehaven etc, before taking a ride up to Wasdale:
Wastwater Screes:
Well, you have to take this shot, don't you
:
That's Yewbarrow on the left, Great Gable in the middle, and Scafell once again hiding in cloud on the right - Wast Water being England's deepest lake.
Then over the Hardknott and Wrynose Passes, the weather having improved a bit.
Hardknott approach from the west; you have been warned
:
Half way up Hardknott, looking back down:
...and still to go:
And the view from the top of the Wrynose Pass:
Gotta say, the Fazer took it all in it's stride, and that's the steepest roads I've ever ridden, dodgy surface and sheep to beware of too. But, the back brake got a bit hot after the descent from Wrynose, and I had to pull over to let it cool for a while, as I lost it completely, just no pressure at all. Probably time I changed the fluid
But a nice view of the Langdale Pikes where I stopped:
Then it was back to Keswick via Little Langdale and Ambleside.
Whilst stopping for a breather at Ambleside, sat on a bench by the main street, I saw one of those things that you just wish you had the camera handy for: Flying below the summit of a nearby fell came 2 Hercules aircraft, being banked steeply around the contours; not only that, but above them, were two paragliders, hanging above the summit - all would have been nicely in shot if I'd had my camera at the ready
The following day, the weather being much better again, I headed first for Ullswater via Patterdale:
Stopping for a coffee before the Kirkstone Pass, the RAF showed they were very active in this region still:
..as well as seeing a number of Hawk trainers over the short period I was there.
View from top of the Kirkstone:
..and the inn there:
After Ambleside at the bottom, I headed down to Bowness-on-Windermere for fish and chips
...normally I avoid the place like the plague as it's the most touristy bit of a very touristy area, but it took me on the route to one place I will always visit when on a bike in the Lake District. Possibly my favourite view accessible by motor vehicle in the whole region, from Birker Fell:
..where others were out to play too:
And then back over Hardknott and Wrynose again, before turning up a little lane that connects Little Langdale to Great Langdale, between Wrynose and Lingmoor fells - providing another view of the Langdale Pikes:
...and then back through Great Langdale, a quick shot back at the Pikes:
And Vid of Hardknott and Wrynose passes:
http://youtu.be/cFZ7Rq5UZUYThat's pretty much it. The Lake District is almost like coming home for me now, love that place so much. I don't think it's the best of biking destinations - both Wales and Scotland have better roads to ride. But combine such as it has with the scenery and the walking available, and there's few places I'd rather live had I the chance.
I had thought of stopping for a couple of days in Snowdonia on the way back down, but the forecast was for one more decent day there at most, so I decided to call it quits and headed for home.
In all, a good trip, and at least I got something out of this summer
