In deep now

[agricola]

Patiently removed all of the stuff to get access to the valves, what a faff. And having done all that, the chuffin valves don't need any shims as all within spec. Inlets tolerance is 0.13 to 0.20, mine are between 0.15 and 0.17. Exhaust tolerance is 0.23 to 0.20, mine come in at 0.25 to 0.28. Just the new gaskets to order now, and then try to squeeze it all back together

[unfazed]

A lot of work for peace of mind 

[Grahamm]

This is a job that I'm going to have to do at some time (technically it's overdue now )

Got any pointers, suggestions, recommendations for doing it?

[agricola]

This is a job that I'm going to have to do at some time (technically it's overdue now )

Got any pointers, suggestions, recommendations for doing it?

I've been using the Haynes manual as a guide, and its worked out ok so far for me. Yours is an early FZ6 isn't it? Manual says remove fairing but I didn't and its not caused a problem with access. I've just followed the manual otherwise. Tips? Wash the bike first so as not to drop crap into injectors/parts etc. Have some Tipex handy for marking plug connectors/ hose connections etc. Take lots of photos, I've just come out the garage and already I cant remember where half to stuff goes. I used imperial feeler gauges to measure the valve clearances as metric sets (I've got 5) don't have a wide enough range to measure accurately enough for me, using thous means you can nail it tightly. Remove the coils, if you leave them hanging they'll be in the way. The valve cover is really tight fit to get out from under the frame, took me ages manipulating it to get it out. The Haynes says rotate the rotor clockwise, the Yamaha manual says anti clockwise. I went with Haynes as it seems to me if you go anti you run the risk of undoing the bolt.

[Grahamm]

I've been using the Haynes manual as a guide, and its worked out ok so far for me. Yours is an early FZ6 isn't it?

S Model, 2004-2006.

Manual says remove fairing but I didn't and its not caused a problem with access.

Haynes always seems to be enthusiastic about removing bits of your bike when doing maintenance, eg to change the plugs they suggest removing the fairing, fuel tank, air filter, battery and battery box before draining the coolant and taking off the fan and radiator simply to change the plugs!!

Wash the bike first so as not to drop crap into injectors/parts etc. Have some Tipex handy for marking plug connectors/ hose connections etc.

Washing it is sensible and the Tippex idea is a good one

Take lots of photos, I've just come out the garage and already I cant remember where half to stuff goes.

I tend to video what I'm doing, so I literally talk through the process I'm about to do which gives me a good record as well as multiple views of whatever I'm working on.

Also a good tip I saw on Facebook was to take a piece of cardboard, draw out the shape of the part you're working on, then, as you take out the various bolts etc, you stick them through the same place in the cardboard, so you know exactly which bit goes back where.

Remove the coils, if you leave them hanging they'll be in the way.

Useful to know.

The valve cover is really tight fit to get out from under the frame, took me ages manipulating it to get it out.

Sounds like the plate that sits above the ABS system on my bike. When I was changing to braided lines the only way to get it out was to remove the rear wheel and shock to take it out through that space above the swing arm!
 

The Haynes says rotate the rotor clockwise, the Yamaha manual says anti clockwise. I went with Haynes as it seems to me if you go anti you run the risk of undoing the bolt.

Yep, I think that's a cock-up in the Yamaha manual.  I came across this when I put the 4 degree ignition advancer on.

BTW I've also heard it said that if you turn it anti-clockwise you risk throwing the timing out... 

Thanks for all that 

[agricola]

Valve cover back, cam cover back on , both OEM gaskets. Has to apply a touch of Loctite 5922 to the valve cover gasket as it kept falling off when offered up. Tighter than a mouses ear putting it back together under the tank area. The heat seal was a ball ache, and the coils have to be fitted to the battery tray before fitting the tray. The coils are located with an M6 screw and a plastic tapered push pin. Might be running by the weekend

[agricola]

All back together and no bits left over, key in, and fired up first time, 10 mile ride with no problems or leaks anywhere. Well chuffed

[Grahamm]

Did you replace the gaskets or re-use the ones that were already on there?

[agricola]

Did you replace the gaskets or re-use the ones that were already on there?

Replaced them with Yam OEM from Fowlers. I always tend to use OE for what I consider critical parts, never had any problems with them (apart from cost, but its only every 25k so justifiable) The one I forgot to order at the same time was the small copper washer on the cooling system drain plug, which resulted in a drive up to CMC at Clay Cross to obtain

[Grahamm]

Replaced them with Yam OEM from Fowlers. I always tend to use OE for what I consider critical parts, never had any problems with them (apart from cost, but its only every 25k so justifiable)

When I did the 4 degree ignition advancer mod, I bought a pattern gasket which I think was about a third of the price on an OEM one.

There again, if you really want to save money, you can buy gasket sheet and cut out the required shape from that (not tried this myself, yet...)

The one I forgot to order at the same time was the small copper washer on the cooling system drain plug, which resulted in a drive up to CMC at Clay Cross to obtain

When I upgraded the fork springs to Hyperpro, I bought a box full of assorted sized copper crush washers which was about the same price as buying three Yamaha ones!

[agricola]

Replaced them with Yam OEM from Fowlers. I always tend to use OE for what I consider critical parts, never had any problems with them (apart from cost, but its only every 25k so justifiable)

When I did the 4 degree ignition advancer mod, I bought a pattern gasket which I think was about a third of the price on an OEM one.

There again, if you really want to save money, you can buy gasket sheet and cut out the required shape from that (not tried this myself, yet...)

The one I forgot to order at the same time was the small copper washer on the cooling system drain plug, which resulted in a drive up to CMC at Clay Cross to obtain

When I upgraded the fork springs to Hyperpro, I bought a box full of assorted sized copper crush washers which was about the same price as buying three Yamaha ones!

I've similar boxes of assorted washers/circlips/o rings etc accumulated over time, sadly the copper washer box did not go small enough in size and I couldn't obtain a correct sized one from any local engineering/automotive suppliers, hence a call to and trip to CMC. Having disturbed the fuelling system, I'll check and balance the throttle bodies at some point this week