Get yourself some nozzle cleaner pokey bits of various diameters, pull the carbs and poke out blocked jets, dont go mad cos you don't want to make the the holes bigger (they are soft brass) but you do want to remove any varnish, I find brake cleaner etc wont remove all the varnish that makes the tiny orrifice smaller, you can feel the difference between poking varnish crud and solid brass.


Get some brake cleaner with a straw and ideally compressed air to blow out the passages in carb body.


With the carbs off and cleaned, you can sort of "bench sync" them by getting the butterflies to be all the same, you can do it by eye but they will be miles out, you can blow through each throat with your mouth and feel the difference, then when they're on the bike they will be fairly close.  When syncing you have to be very carefull to change one thing at a time and you need to know all jets are clean and pilots set exacly the same, dont re adjust pilots untill vaccume is synced.

Hi guys,
I'm replacing my pitted fork stantion and have got stuck,
Theres a wierd like pressed in sleeve thing in my old stantion and nothing on the new stantion.


Whats this about? Can it be removed and tranfered over?

Details Fzs600 stantion inside thing

Fzs600 stantion inside thing

Hydraulic schmoo, which...

Mines doing the same have to use choke to start it even in this weather, it'll be a blocked idle jet if the ignition side is good. I'm going to strip and clean the carbs this weekend maybe. You can get nozzle cleaning set for cleaning welding tips bit are very handy for cleaning teeny tiny pilot jet holes if your carefully not to remove any material just poke out the varnish crap that makes the orifice smaller.

A couple of decent spots should be sufficient.
Coincidentally, I changed my sprocket this afternoon… angle grinder to cut the old welds and clean up the end of the shaft, new sprocket, old nut back on which tightened up just enough to clamp the sprocket firmly and a couple of fresh welds and it should all stay put.


Nice idea to build up the shaft and then cut a fresh thread, you could actually choose a pitch suitable for the job. I doubt it could be done in-situ though, that much welding would probably get the shaft hot enough to roast the oil seal.

oil seal would be a concern,
is there much shaft sticking out with the sprocket removed, like enough to get a wet rag around it?


 

has it got led indicators or dipped beam / sidelight?

Update on my fuel overflow problem. I lapped all the valves, which took absolutely ages and then reassembled the engine and checked and re-adjusted the valve clearances. I started it up this afternoon and it's still bloody leaking.


In desperation I disconnected the fuel pump and started it up again, and it ran absolutely fine until the carbs emptied. So it doesn't seem to be a back-pressure problem, but rather a problem on the inlet side of the carbs. I've already replaced all the float valves and seals, so I'm at a bit of a loss as to what the problem is.


Interestingly, when I dismantled the bike last autumn, I discovered that the wires to the fuel pump were connected in the classic bodger's "twist them together and wrap tape around it" method. This leads me to believe that the pump isn't exactly the correct one for the bike. It may just be that it's been replaced with a 98-01 pump at some point, or it may be a pump from a different model entirely. Does anyone know if the connectors are different between the different years? I know this is the case for some parts of the wiring loom, as my ebay engine had different connectors on the oil pressure sensor and the alternator.


My first worry was that I might have reconnected the pump backwards, but I'm pretty sure that it wouldn't run at all if I'd done that. The pump seems to be operating correctly, ticks a few times when you turn it on, then stops.


Next step is to try plumbing the fuel in direct from the tank to the carbs and see if it'll run properly then.

If the pump is from a fuel injected model it will be higher pressure, the carb pumps are very low pressure (upto about 5psi max)  so it dosn't ruin the float valves.

Jeez there isnt much metal there. They look like aftermarket wavy disks, Why people fit them I have no idea, It's not like stock disk on a motorcycle arnt going to cool efficiently or spin the water off them, I think its just fashion.

my fazer is in the garage. bad timing as I sent it in saturday and it was the most beautiful weekend ever and now a 4 day weekend and it might not be ready untill tuesday 


its having:


oil n filter
air filter
valve clearances
carb balance
2x new tyres
MOT
possibly front brake pads


I'm missing it alot, took out the Divvy instead and omg does it feel like a riding a rocking horse with a lawnmower engine after getting used to the fazer.

I'm having some rough running issues at low speed, it seems to be slowly getting worse the bike is horrible to ride at low speed, jerky. I set the idle speed at 1250ish but after its warm it idles at 2,100 ish, It will stall when warming up sometimes. Is this a TPS issue or a carb balance issue or blocked idle jets?


I had a diversion before this and I spent ages messing around with carbs, only to find it was the ecu and other relay looking thing that has something to do with ignition, that was full of water and corroded inside, It runs sweet now.


I really hate working on bikes, I'm a mechanic all week I don't want to spend my weekends fixing my bike I just want to ride it!!


how do I check TPS do I just unplug it and the rev gauge should move? what should it move to?


I also have what feels like a stiff link in the chain at low speeds, Ive checked the front sprocket is tight and wiggled each link in the chain as I've lubed them but can't feel any stiff, am I just not moving them enough to "feel the stiffness"    or could it be something else?