Date: 19-04-24  Time: 16:22 pm

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Topics - PieEater

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Looking for some ride suggestions around The Wirral area / North Wales with a good mix of roads and scenery.

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Winter Projects
« on: 07 December 2017, 10:40:22 am »
Been very quiet here of late so thought I'd ask people what if any winter projects they have lined up for their bikes.

I'm thinking of stripping the plastics and tank off so I can give them a good clean and also get to the nooks and crannies to makes sure everything is free of rust and corrosion (ACF50 where required), this will also make the electrics more accessible so I am thinking of going through all the connector blocks using some contact cleaner to clean them up and then painting some ACF50 on the connectors to keep the gremlins away. Might also take the swingarm off to give it a good clean and re-grease all the linkage and swingarm bearings. Does anyone have any recommendations for grease to use with bearings, I've just been using multi purpose stuff but don't know if there is anything that would be better.

Also does anyone know if you can get tapered feeler gauges at particular sizes i.e. .11mm through to .30mm as I'd like to recheck my valve clearances (probably next year) to get exact measurements without having to resort to using multiple guages to measure the gap. This would help to accurately figure out what shims I would need to get all of the clearances to the halfway point. I did a half arsed job last year and found that some clearances are pretty close to the limits but I'm not at 50K yet so plan to do a better job probably next year when I will have hit the 50K and am thinking I will need to re-shim.

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Sloppy Gear Lever
« on: 27 January 2017, 10:13:43 pm »

Just wanted to confirm that this is the right spring to be looking at if my gear lever seems a bit sloppy in that it doesn't return to it's proper position as it used to making gear changes a bit less positive -

There was talk of trying to find a stronger spring that would fit or even fitting 2 springs instead of the one, has anyone had any success with either of these options? Any other things I should be looking at to help with the gear lever action? I've greased up the rose joints.

Having managed to loose 5 stone over the last 10 months my bike Jacket no longer fits me.

This cost me ~£235 and has been worth every penny and it looks fantastic on (the pictures really don't do it justice). It has the following features
- Sheltex membrane.
- HiProtech armour in the back, elbows & shoulders.
- Patented Coldblack system which reflects heat from the jacket rather than absorbing it.
- Zipped vents under the arms and at the back to keep you cool in the summer.
- Removable quilted liner to keep you warm on cold days.
- Leather reinforcement for shoulders & elbows.

I really loved this jacket and so I looked after it well, regularly treating the leather areas with cleaner and conditioner, but I have had it for a few years so the white bit's are not as white as they once were.

£60 including delivery

General / Motorcycle Leather Care Products
« on: 07 June 2016, 09:21:08 pm »
Looking for some recommendations for leather care products - cleaner & conditioner. I have been using Autoglym products which are about to run out so didn't know whether to get more of the same or if there was anything that was any better.


What is it?

The FZS1000 Gen1 Fazer was released in 2001 as the bigger stablemate to the popular FZS600 and shared the same design brief, sportsbike engine in a steel tube chassis with the everyday rider in mind when it came to practicalities such as riding position, seat comfort, tank range, centre stand etc. The engine in the Gen1 is the carburetted R1 engine with some modifications to tame the power delivery and focus more on midrange and torque. The chassis is heavier and longer than the R1 taming the handling to match the road going bias of the bike. Throughout its history the Gen1 has maintained its reputation of being a brilliant do-it-all bike usually leading the group tests of its contemporaries. In 2006 Yamaha introduced the Gen2 Fazer 1000 apparently the market was calling for a more sports orientated option the result was a faster better handling motorcycle, but arguably at the expense of practicalities such as comfort, tank range etc. Hence the Gen1 still has a broad following with owners choosing to retain the do-it-all nature of the earlier bike but upgrading suspension and fuelling to keep it current.

Which one should I buy?

There have been no major updates to the Gen1 Fazer 1000 through its 5 year history which should influence your purchasing decision. Rather than age it is better to focus on overall condition of the bike, its history and whether it has any of the popular modifications already fitted. High mileage should not necessarily put you off purchasing a Gen1 if it has been properly maintained, examples of bikes doing over 100,000 trouble free miles are not uncommon.

Notes on Imported bikes
  • Bikes imported into the UK from countries that drive on the right side of the road may still have headlights that are angled incorrectly for UK roads, this may result in a MOT failure.
  • Some early bikes sold in France (~2001) were fitted with a 100BHP restrictor kit, this consists of black grommets attached to the carb tops which prevent the throttle slide from fully opening, these can easily be removed to restore full power
  • US Imports can be readily identified as they will have FZ1 decals on the fairing rather than the word Fazer.
  • Some imported bikes may not have the hazard lights switch or the high beam pass button on the left hand switchgear, however the wiring and connectors for these should still be present so if desired it is just a case of finding and installing a second hand UK spec switchgear unit.
What should I look out for?
  • The Gen1 can suffer from corrosion if neglected, check the condition of the exhaust headers for a good indication of how the bike has been treated. Bikes with silver engines generally suffer with the engine paint flaking with age / neglect.
  • The Gen1 has an EXUP valve system which modifies exhaust back pressure in order to increase low down torque, the EXUP valve requires regular servicing but this is often neglected. When looking at purchasing a Gen1 you should confirm with the owner / dealer that this servicing has been done and preferably confirm for yourself that the bolts securing the cover and valve mechanism are able to turn freely as they often rust and seize in place.
  • The compression damping adjusters on the fork legs can be prone to seize, before parting with your cash make sure that these can turn and you can hear the clicks as they move from one position to the next.
What upgrades / modifications should I consider?

Suspension / Handling
  • The suspension on the Gen1 Fazer 1000 has never been its strong point and time will have only made things worse. The rear shock is particularly bad and should be one of the first thing owners consider when looking to improve the bikes handling. There are several options available including having the OEM shock re-sprung & refurbished, the popular R6 shock mod or purchasing a complete new shock from the likes of Nitron / Ohlins.
  • The front forks will benefit from stronger springs and fresh oil. There are many options available including progressive springs from Hyperpro and linear springs from K-Tech. Another more extreme option that some owners have taken is to fit R1 upside down forks to the bike although this is not a straight swap.
  • The bikes handling can also be noticeably improved by fitting a jack-up kit and raising the forks through the yokes, both of these options alter the bikes geometry and quicken it’s responsiveness through corners with minimal or no cost.
  • Yamaha recommend that the OEM rubber brake lines are replaced after 4 years, if your bike still has these fitted you should consider replacing them on safety grounds. Hel offer a £25% discount for Fazer Forum members, you will need to place your order over the telephone (01392 811601) and mention the forums.
  • Many owners report that the OEM Yamaha brake pads offer better performance and less disk wear than other options, however these can be prohibitively expensive. Other common options are sintered pads from EBC or Carbone Lorraine which offer good performance or Organic / Ceramic pads from EBC which loose out a little to outright grip but are less prone to glazing and disk wear.
  • Many Fazer owners opt to replace the OEM handlebars with Renthal 758 Ultralow Street bars either through accident or design. These bars are slightly lower and wider than the OEM bars allowing a little more weight over the front of the bike and more controlled counter steering, they will fit with all of the OEM equipment but will need tapping out if you wish to retain the OEM bar end weights (recommended).
Carb kits
  • There are a number of carb kits for the Gen1 Fazer 1000 the most popular on these forums is the kit from Ivan's Performance Products. This kit fully addresses the issues with the stock fuelling and when combined with a free flowing air filter, airbox mods and aftermarket end can boosts power by at least 10HP. The UK supplier for Ivan's products are SG Motorsport.
AIS system Removal
  • The bike is fitted with an air induction system fitted solely for emissions purposes. Removal of the AIS allows for much easier maintenance such as access to the spark plugs, reduces unnecessary weight and makes the engine look less cluttered. There are two methods for blanking off the spigots at the exhaust manifolds, one involves tapping out the spigots and using a bolt to seal them, the other method involves a cap that fits over the spigot. As well as the spigots there are 2 further caps required one for the airbox and the other for the intake port. Kits are available for either method that supply all the required parts for this modification.
  • Ivan's AIS removal kit (tapping method) is available through SG Motorsports. Pats site has some instructions for AIS removal based on using Ivan's kit here.
  • The Holeshot FZ1 Racing Air Induction Removal Kit (capping method) is available direct from Holeshot in the USA.
Ivan's air box mod(part of the full monty mod)Manual Cam Chain tensioner
  • Whilst generally reliable there have been known incidences of the OEM automatic cam chain tensioner failing resulting in major engine damage. Fitting a manual tensioner eliminates this risk.
4 Degree Ignition Advancer
  • An ignition advancer will help the bike start better and give a useful boost to power at the lower end of the rev range, the trade-off is a slight loss of power at the very top end.
Are there any Gen1 specific service items or issues I should be aware of?

EXUP Valve
  • The EXUP valve should be regularly serviced at least annually, refer to Pat’s excellent guide on how to do this. Replacing the OEM retaining bolts for the cover and valve plate with stainless steel alternatives is highly recommended, the necessary sizes are M6 x 10mm (x3) for the outer cover and M6 x 16mm (x3) for the valve plate (thanks to forum member robbo for this information).
Valve Clearances

If you are planning on checking the valve clearances yourself (26,600 mile intervals) a service manual such as those from Haynes & Clymer is always recommended but there are a number of points you should be aware of.
  • Firstly as partial removal of the AIS system forms part of the process you should plan on using this opportunity to completely remove the AIS, if it hasn't already been junked (see appropriate section above).
  • Secondly if the service manual tells you to remove the carbs as part of the process (as per Mr Haynes) then this isn't necessary.
  • Thirdly it isn't  necessary to remove the timing cover in order to find TDC as long as the cam lobe is directly opposite the valve bucket you are checking then this is sufficient, putting the bike in gear and rotating the rear wheel will allow you to rotate the cams.
  • Lastly the exhaust valve clearances are 0.21mm to 0.30mm some manuals will say that he upper tolerance is 0.25mm, (thanks to forum member Unfazed for this information), the intake clearances are  0.11mm to 0.20mm.
  • It is not uncommon for the carb jets to become gummed over time if the bike is not in regular use or is generally laid up over the winter months. To help prevent this you can use a fuel such as Shell V-Power which includes additives to clean the fuel system, this can be one tankful in every two or three and still be effective. If you suspect you may have fuelling issues due to partially blocked jets, running the bike with a fuel additive such as Redline in one or two tanks of fuel should help clean the fuel system of residual gum.
  • The rubber on the inlet manifolds between the carbs and the cylinder head is prone to cracking, this is generally cosmetic with no reported issues of the cracks affecting the internal walls of the manifolds or the performance of the engine.
  • With age the rubber O rings in the carbs can deteriorate leading to a number of issues with the bike running roughly especially at lower revs / speeds. Given the age of the OEM O rings it is recommended to replace these using Nitrile (Buna-N) or Viton® (FKM) O-Rings, Fluoroelastomer Seal type FKM 75 in the following sizes;
    - Float needle valve: 7.5mm ID x 1.5mm cross section x 10.5mm OD
    - Main Jet : 5.5mm ID x 1.5mm cross section x 8.5mm OD
    - Idle air screw: 3.0mm ID x 1.0mm cross section x 5.0mm OD
    - Under Diaphragm cap 2.5mm ID x 1.5mm cross section x 5.5mm OD
    - Idle air screw O-ring is a proprietary size of 2.70 I.D. x 1.13mm
  • It may also be worthwhile replacing the float bowl seals, OEM parts can be expensive but the same part is used by Suzuki and Kawasaki so it can be worthwhile checking if any are cheaper than the others;
    - YAMAHA PART # 5DM-14561-00-00
    - SUZUKI PART# 13258-04F00
    - KAWASAKI PART# 92055-S058
Front Sprocket
  • It is fairly common for the tab washer that is supposed to secure the front sprocket bolt to have not been correctly tabbed over leading to the sprocket bolt loosening and even coming off the spline totally. It is worthwhile checking this after purchasing your Fazer and remember to always use a new tab washer after replacing your chain and sprockets.
Drive Chain
  • The Gen1 requires 45-55mm of slack in the drive chain which is more than most bikes. A rule of thumb to check the tension is to place the bike on the centre stand and lift the lower chain run midway along the swingarm as far as it will go, the chain should just touch the black chain guide. You should rotate the rear wheel a few times to check for tight spots and check the tension at the tightest point of the chain.
Ignition Lock
  • The ignition lock can become difficult to operate, it is recommended that the barrel is cleaned out using a solvent spray then lubricated with a dry lube such as graphite grease, avoid any lubricants that may attract dirt and worsen the problem.
Electrical connectors

Given the age of the bike it is worthwhile going through all of the electrical connector blocks on the bike checking for corrosion and making repairs where necessary.
  • An electrical contact cleaner spray can be used to degrease and clean both the inside & outside of the blocks, the outside of the blocks should be treated sparingly with a product that will repel water and prevent corrosion such as dielectric grease or ACF50.
  • Particular attention should be given to both the larger connector attached to the fairing below the left hand infill which can result in headlamp faults, and the large white connector under the left hand side of the tank which should be replaced if it shows any signs of corrosion or heat damage.
Radiator Fan
  • The radiator fan on the Gen1 will switch on once the engine has been started and the bike left in neutral for a short time, the fan will turn off once the bike is put in gear. This is by design, Yamaha have said it is to prevent the fans blades from warping due to heat from the header pipes.
Tachometer Codes

The bike has some built in diagnostics that are reported through the rev counter. When a particular fault is detected the rev counter needle repeatedly alternates between a set RPM then back to the bikes correct RPM, these codes are;
  • 3,000 RPM = Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Fault
  • 4,000 RPM = Speed Sensor Fault
  • 7,000 RPM = EXUP System Fault
  • 9.000 RPM = Overturn Switch Fault (Note: This error code can in some cases be triggered by a faulty battery)
Oil Level Light
  • The oil warning light on the Gen1 works from an oil level sensor rather than oil pressure. It is notorious for coming on if the oil level falls much below the maximum level mark on the sight glass. When undertaking an oil change make sure you use sufficient oil to reach the maximum level mark.
  • Checking the oil level should be done with a warm engine, the bike placed on the centre stand on level ground, and after allowing a few minutes for the oil level to settle.
Front Suspension Compression Damping Adjusters
  • As mentioned earlier these adjusters found on the fork legs just below the front brake mounting points can be prone to seizing due to corrosion, this can generally be prevented by regularly cleaning and maintenance. If the bike is used in winter, kept outdoors or not cleaned regularly a coating of Vaseline or grease over the adjuster can help prevent this corrosion, however this may attract grit and road debris so should be cleaned off carefully to avoid pushing grit into the adjuster which may then cause it to stick. If they do become stuck this method may help free them.
Rear Suspension / Swingarm Linkage Play
  • Some MOT testers may issue an advisory for play in the rear suspension / swingarm bushes and bearings. Gen1 Fazers do have a longer than average swingarm and a degree of up and down play is standard, it is only felt when the bike is on the centre stand and the the rear wheel is lifted up. When the bike is on the road any slack is taken up and it is a non issue. If you explain this to the tester they are generally OK about removing the advisory or not putting it on the next certificate. if you do look at stripping the linkage for inspection or to replace parts some have reported torqueing the bolts back up with the bike on the side stand reduces the inherent free play although from reports of owners that have done this it cannot be totally eliminated. New bearings and seals can be obtained from Marksman.
Fairing Infill's
  • Due to age the black plastic infills either side of the fairing can become brittle, if these are removed during maintenance it is recommended that you refit them with a suitable rubber washer between the mounting points and infill to help prevent the infills cracking around the bolt holes, do not overtighten the retaining bolts.
Silver Engine Paint
  • On bikes with silver engines the engine paint can be prone to flaking after a while, if you want to re-spray parts of the engine or the whole block then Simoniz Engine Enamel in the Aluminium finish is a good match for the OEM paint.
Replacement parts
  • Parts for the FZS1000 are becoming harder to find, but it seems a company (AVB Moto) in France are doing a pattern versions of the generator cover, wich is good news for FZS1000 owners.
       Company: SARL Avdb moto
       Address: 7 rue Gustave Eiffel, 31140, Aucamville, FR
       Phone: 0033670222251
       Email: cbr-fs(at)

Where Can I Find More Information About the Gen1 Fazer 1000?

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Does Anyone Recognise This Fazer?
« on: 05 June 2016, 10:42:54 am »
For sale on ebay -

Zero feedback seller says they bought the bike about 15 months ago as is, they don't know anything about the mods to the bike other than they think the suspension was lowered with a hyper pro kit (looks raised to me).

A friend of a friend is interested but some alarm bells are sounding, be good if anyone here knows the bike or its history.

For Sale & Wanted / Now Sold: Yamaha XV1700 RoadStar Warrior
« on: 12 May 2016, 07:27:26 am »
Posting on behalf of my mate. Slimwilly and Hedgetrimmer can attest to the fact that that this is a real torquemonster and handles better than a cruiser ever should.

eBay Listing

Photo Album


Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / 25mm Jack-Up Kit (Gen1)
« on: 04 April 2016, 08:10:07 pm »
I've just replaced my 25mm Jack-Up kit with a 50mm one and would be happy to let a fellow Foccer have the old dog bones if they would be put to good use. I'd appreciate the cost of postage being covered but other than that I wouldn't want anything for them. Drop me a PM if interested. 

These are the ones -

The Jack-Up kit will firm up the rear shock and make the bike a lot nimbler through the bends so is a real bonus if you're still running with the OEM shock. The kit takes about 20 minutes to fit and there are no issues with either the side or centre stands.

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / FAO Nitron Shock Owners
« on: 07 November 2015, 04:46:40 pm »
Thought I'd pass on that I called Nitron today to ask how much it would cost to service my rear shock, they said that until the end of the year they are offering a full rear shock rebuild at the same price as a short rebuild so for my 'Track' shock it will cost £95 instead of £125 (prices exclude VAT). The prices on the website don't reflect this offer so you may want to confirm this with Nitron first, they guy I spoke with was called Alex. My shock is on it's way to them .........

Full details here -

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Help: Gremlin Infestation
« on: 19 September 2015, 02:03:58 pm »
Just got the bike out to enjoy a ride in the sunshine. It took a lot more effort to start than normal, seemed to be turning over OK but wouldn't catch. I played with the choke (not normally needed) still nothing, left it for 30 seconds and it started. Rode 500 yards down the road and everything cut out, engine, lights, clocks, everything. I turned round and started freewheeling back towards home and within 20 seconds the electrics came back on and the bike started up again when I pressed the starter.

Battery is Motobatt less than a year old (now on charge).
Bike is in good order with minimal corrosion, I've just been through all the electrics top to tail and made sure the connectors were all good and squirted WD40 down them all (not long ago did this with ACF50).
Iridium plugs are probably due for a change soon (done about 20k) but I wouldn't expect this is the issue.
Last ride out the bike behaved faultlessly although picked up a puncture so the back wheel has been out and back in since.
Will go down and squirt some WD down the ignition barrel.

Any ideas - hate not being able to trust the bike, I guess it's time to get some breakdown cover.

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Brake Pads: Sintered vs Ceramic
« on: 05 September 2015, 02:14:51 pm »
Has anyone got any real world experience of both of these pad types on the Gen1?
I've always used EBC HH Sintered but understand that if they are not used aggressively they can glaze which then degrades performance, and I'm wandering if this is the case with me. When I first fit the pads I'm impressed, but after a couple of thousand miles I end up feeling that they are lacking bite. I would say that I'm a fast but smooth rider, so never that heavy on the brakes, so I'm wandering whether I should switch to Ceramic pads !?! I've looked at OEM but they are prohibitively expensive.

General / Suggested Rides - Shropshire / Wales
« on: 15 June 2015, 07:37:00 pm »
I'm going to be based near Craven Arms in Shropshire for 2 nights at the end of the month and was hoping for some ideas for routes that would take in good roads and scenery in the Shropshire / Wales vicinity, any and all suggestions welcome.

For Sale & Wanted / Hel Front Brake Lines (Gen1 1000)
« on: 24 April 2015, 09:46:32 am »
I've just replaced my front Hel brake lines on my Gen1 thou with another set so I have the old set sitting on the shelf. This is the 2 line kit with one line going direct to each calliper, the lines are wrapped with the clear sleeve and the reason I replaced them is that the sleeve has started to discolour around the top banjo, according to Hel "they all do that sir.....".

I thought they might be useful for someone on a limited budget that still has the OEM hoses which will long be past their best before date, looking for £10 to cover P&P plus a couple of beers, I'll throw in the old bolts & copper washers if required.

I'll post a photo up on request.

No longer available - on their way to a good home !!!

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Dead Battery or Something Else
« on: 06 April 2015, 08:04:11 pm »
Didn't maintain the battery overwinter and it was totally dead when I first came to start it about 6 weeks ago, not enough to power up the idiot lights or anything, put it on charge and it's been fine until today. Came back from a ride stopped the bike, opened the garage came back to bike - Dead, no idiot lights no clicks, nothing. Checked fuses, everything fine, put battery on charge turned the key and all lights came back, left on charge for 2 hours came back, Oxford charger said battery was fully charged condition strong, disconnected the charger no idiot lights just rapid clicking.......

Yuasa battery is about 5 years old, time for a new one or anything I can check first?

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Fork Maintenance
« on: 09 November 2014, 04:43:44 pm »
This years Winter project will be fork maintenance. I've had the bike about 5 years now and feel as if the damping is not as good as it was when I first bought it so am thinking the oil has had it. I've never been unhappy with the forks performance until recently and when I had help setting them up a couple of years ago was able to discern a difference in each adjusters setting so I'm assuming that they have had some work done on the internals but won't know for sure until I open them up.

I'd appreciate any guidance / hints / tips from those that have undertaken a stripdown & rebuild of the forks - other than oil & seals will I need to purchase any other parts / tools / fluids, what oil is recommended, if I find the springs are OEM should I replace them and if so what with, is it worthwhile renewing springs anyway if they are at least 5 years old? If it helps I weigh 23st and have more weight over the front than stock via a jack-up kit, height adjustable shock and having the forks through the yokes by ~12mm, riding style is fast on minor A roads (lots of bends and not the best road surfaces - so forks are working hard).

I've had to replace my XR1000 so have a couple of basically unused genuine Shoei clear visors and a couple of unopened clear anti-fog pinlock lenses that I don't need. Before they go to landfill I thought I'd ask here if anyone could use them? I'd just want whatever it costs for postage.

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Avon Storm 3D XM
« on: 02 July 2013, 08:26:33 am »
I've always been a fan of Avon Storms but stopped using them when the 2-Ultras had an issue with the shoulders wearing too quickly so I switched to BT023s. I wasn't that happy with the way the Bridgestones handled from the start, my worn out Avons felt more responsive, but I got used to them after a few hundred miles.

Anyhow I had to replace both tyres last weekend and was looking at the new T30s from Bridgestone when I came across this review of the new Avon Storm 3Ds. The fact that they were testing them on a track using a Gen2 Fazer grabbed my attention as did the extra mileage claim which leads me to hope that the wear issue with the front should be resolved, and lastly I was just in time to catch the tail end of a £15 off each tyre offer, so a pair fitted to loose wheels for £190 made my mind up and I bit the bullet.

I am so glad I did, my bike is back to feeling the way it was when I really enjoyed riding it, even my wife said she could tell that the bike was handling a lot better than usual after a Sunday ride through the twisties (not a euphemism). Whilst the Bridgestones were always fairly neutral the bike simply felt happier at 90 degrees, with the Avons the bike feels much happier to change direction and stay where you want it, it even seems to be telling you there's more tyre to explore if you want to.

I'm happy to accept that generally any pair of fresh tyres are going to feel better than the worn ones they've replaced, but this isn't the night/day difference I've found, I'm also happy to accept that some folks will prefer the more 'planted' feeling of a slower steering tyre. But from my initial few rides I can heartily recommend the new Storms to anyone who likes a great handling quicker steering tyre that promises decent wear rates.

I'll post back when I wear through a rear, just checked and my last 2 rear 023s lasted 2800 miles each  :eek (front 6900) pretty sure I was getting about 1000 more from a rear on the old Storms.

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Lubing EXUP Cables
« on: 26 June 2013, 10:52:12 am »
Have done my clutch and throttle cables and thought it might not be a bad idea to do the EXUP ones, any tips, tricks or advice on the best way to do these?

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Fitting new C&S - Swingarm Out - Advice Please
« on: 25 December 2012, 01:24:53 pm »
Hi - I'm going to be fitting a new C&S kit so will be removing my swingarm, I also want to take my shock off to give it a clean. I was after any advice i.e. what nuts I should slacken before removing the wheel, any useful maintenance I could do with the swingarm out etc, any non-standard equipment required. The bike is a 2001 Gen1 and has done 33k, do you think I should be looking at replacing any bearings or would a regrease and re-fit be OK?

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Dyno Charts - Full Monty & Fuel End Can
« on: 29 June 2012, 09:25:43 am »
Following Mike doing the "Full Monty" on my bike last year I finally managed to get the bike to a Dyno. I had 2 sets of runs the first with the baffle fitted in my Fuel can and the second with the baffle removed, I thought the results were worth sharing as they show significant improvements in peak figures, delivery and fueling when running with no baffle. The tester was very impressed with the fueling and with the power that the bike was making, so kudos to Ivan and Mike. I'd also reccomend Somerton Motorcycle Engineering in Somerset for any bike related work, very friendly knowledgable blokes who do the full range from restoring classics using their engineering facilities to prepping and racing track bikes.


Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Which Hugger (Gen 1)
« on: 24 December 2011, 11:22:50 pm »
Want to get a hugger (black) for my 2001 Blue Gen1 have had a look at the following but none of them really float my boat in terms of looks but it's hard to imagine them on the bike from the limited photo's I've seen;
  • SkidMarx
  • Pyramid
  • Puig
  • Powerbronze
Any reccomendations or ones to avoid? Skidmarx are having a 20% off sale which makes their Carbon Fibre offering more affordable though I'd rather have something understated than flash.

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Stainless EXUP Cover Bolts
« on: 25 November 2011, 09:58:43 pm »
Anyone know where to get these? I've got some with a 10mm head and no shoulders (no dandruff jokes please) which are impossible to get on and off with a socket but which will do in the meantime.
I've read on these forums folks recommending an EXUP service at least twice a year and have always though that was excessive but having just looked at mine after 10 months I can deffinately say it was overdue a service, so I'll be doing mine twice a year from now on.

Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Removing the Carb De-Icing Hoses
« on: 25 November 2011, 08:40:06 pm »
Now that I've got rid of the AIS from my Gen1 I'd like to get clean up a bit more and get rid of the 2 hoses feeding the de-icing circuit between the carbs and the radiator. I don't ride the bike if the thermometer is going to read less than 10c so I can't see this being a problem. I was thinking about trying to source some caps for the spigots on the radiator and thermostat housing to blank them off but then thought that it might be easier just to run a pipe between the two so in effect the circuit remains (albeit a lot shorter) but the carbs are bypassed. What I didn't want to do was put any additional stress on the water pump and just thought I'd ask here for any comments.

For Sale & Wanted / Gen1 OEM Shock
« on: 06 October 2011, 08:24:06 pm »
Good condition, ideal to put back on a bike you're selling so you can get a better price for your aftermarket shock, or to put on your bike whilst you get your shock serviced. Open to offers email me at pie dot eater at blueyonder dot co dot uk.

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