thanks for looking,
Im going to look into it as more fabrication needed. trying to keep it minimal and keeping the switches off of the bars.

I normally do a quick check, MDS , Tayna and Ebay.  Occasionally Halfords have offers on Yuasa batteries.
I tend to check Tayna ebay site, sometimes can be cheaper and include free postage than buying direct from Tayna web site.
6 or 7 years is good for a Yuasa but then when you pay half the price and the other make lasts half the time, depends if you want to change more often.


One thing, I have contacted Optimate as my Z750 battery went down, the old optimates do take some life out of batteries if left connected but not turned on. Mine was connected but I turn the garage power off when I leave for safety.

Fazer, R1, laverda 750 , Z750

I drew the diagram, from the wiring in the bike. 1969.

On my BSA A50 import from America, its running Boyer ignition and 12v battery but no ignition switch only two rocker switches. one presumably the ignition on /off and the other headlights.
Ive never come across this sort of wiring before. from the diagram I would like to know a few things.
1/. both high and low beam are joined into relay 1, will the relay dip the bulb?
2/. are both 20amp fuses needed in line?
3/. probably need a horn and rear brake switch, where is the best place to feed from?
4/. 2 relays? are they both needed?


going to rewire but there are brackets fitted and the frame has been powder coated as is. just looking to replace old wire for new.
thanks..

not had a lot of time this week, just been out and started it. fan comes on and when gear engaged, stops. Back into neutral and after a while fan comes on, then goes out when gear engaged. SO presumably correct.
While doing this, the bike cut out. Clutch straight in pressed button and starts again.. baffelling, could it still be carbs?  could the fuel pump be on the way, there is fuel in the filter before the pump?
thanks

ok, first time Ive come across the fan procedure, tbh, apart from a RS100, and the R1 these are the only two Yamahas Ive had in 50 years riding. Although I have worked on many other marques and never had it happen before. I know some bikes run right through the bikes system in the first few minutes including fan test but normally shut off.
This one stays on as far as I recall, will check tomorrow.


I have discounted fuelling as it shuts down without any starvation and will start up straightaway .The filter is always full even when cut out.


could it be the sensor if the bike cuts out at the same time as the fan, then it resets itself?

Ive read through a couple of threads here. very informative but Im partly confused.
I picked up the fazer as a spare engine for my 02 R1 track bike, only difference tuning and carbed against the Fi R1.


,the bike was stood for a couple of years had some rust in the tank which Ive cleaned out and had two filters, now just the one. Carbs had been off and cleaned.
The bike will cut out after standing for 10 mins or on a short ride. Will then start right up again, straight away.


The ECU is cool, the battery gets 14.5v dropping to 13.5 with all lights on  and heated grips. BUT, the fan cuts in after 30 seconds, the motor isnt warm yet and the voltage then drops just below 13v.
could the fan sensor be faulty? would that cause the engine to cut?