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Topics - anutz
76
« on: 29 April 2015, 07:36:02 am »
Just a bit of info, I ordered one of these as they look good.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400908897249I shall let people know if it works ok - I tried to do some work with the bike jacked up and putting the wheel back in on my own with no paddock stand was almost impossible I like this one as it seems it will not get in the way of any removal of the axel or sensors etc..
77
« on: 26 April 2015, 01:59:38 pm »
Another thread from me...
Reason - is there any need to "prime" any systems after what I have done i.e. cylinder head has been off and cooling and oil systems have been drained and removed where applicable, fuel filter etc off and being re-fitted
I have heard and read of some people having air locks in oil systems and destroying engines etc...
I am sure on the old site, I read about someone who did just the above, left the bike ticking and came back, it had seized, air lock in the oil system...
Anutz
78
« on: 26 April 2015, 12:13:40 pm »
Hi All, So I have now got my engine back together, i.e. cylinder head on...and am working on the rest of the bike I am changing the sprocket nut, I soaked it in Plusgas for the past week whilst I have been working on the cams, and with a 600mm breaker and a 32mm socket it came off with little effort I made sure to have the transmission in neutral and someone applying the back brake Is there any special process or is it just a case of lock tab on, screw and torque new nut then bend the tabs over fully? I am using part numbers 90215-21290 90179-18006 The 12mm nut and lock tab I have read parts of the Bulletin to dealers and it did mention to measure the thread depth?   
79
« on: 23 April 2015, 11:18:05 am »
So I am putting my cylinder head back on....and have hit the first real issue... The camshaft chain... The issue is I cannot get the marks on the cams to line up 100% with the marks on the camshaft caps... I tried several times last night and each time they were slightly off  I need to consider what is causing it - I don't have the pictures I initially took of them due to my phone failing....so having to assume the always were spot on... As a warning as well I have had the timing chain drop off the crank sprocket initially as when I put in the Exhaust timing guide it knocked it off - that's sorted now!  My process is: 1. Set Piston #1 to TDC using Socket on the flywheel 2. Hold Exhaust side of Timing chain tight and place Exhaust Camshaft in place, 3. Seem to be able to always get it spot on BUT then the chain shifts it over as it engages with it about a 1mm 4. Keeping it tight I then feed the Intake Cam in - seems to be spot on So I suppose I need to consider 1. Was it ever spot on 2. How much tolerance is ok - I assume non  3. Could it be the chain 4. The manual says take the sprockets OFF the cam slightly whilst adjusting and mesh them with the chain, issue is due to the way the fixings are graded i.e. distance between them I suspect this would make it worse Adding pics so you can see what I am on about... 
80
« on: 20 April 2015, 05:50:11 pm »
So I am slowly getting bits back on my bike whilst I await some parts I need to finish putting the cylinder head back on!
I put the front wheel back on today and the callipers etc...
It rotates but not as freely as I would have thought....I made sure that the speed sensor unit was lined up as it should be and its all torqued as needed...
Both sets of disc brakes are rubbing - not sure I would call it binding but when I spin It with a free hand, it does not rotate much due to the friction..
Would this be explained as "normal" given the pads might be in a little different position now?
Or is this something to look into and re-assemble/clean resolve?
Anutz!
81
« on: 18 April 2015, 01:12:57 pm »
So i am currently building the head on my engine....and i am missing 5 engine nut washers i.e. the Nuts that hold the head on...their washers...
They are strange and i cannot see any washers the same type at local shops...
Some on ebay for 3.45 a washer - get lost...would rather buy a new head for parts
anyone any ideas what dimensions they are?
I HAVE measured them but i mean dimensions in terms of M6/8 - they seem to be 9mm internal diameter and 16.5 outer
Anutz
82
« on: 13 April 2015, 01:43:56 pm »
So i have my bike in pieces waiting for the cylinder head to be sorted out....
I was thinking about cleaning the carbs, i might have blocked pilot jets....maybe...when i crack the throttle its ropey as hell, and i had already checked the vacuum pressures/idle/tps etc that were in tolerance...
Anyone done this - it looked a little difficult initially, but after understanding how they work and what is inside them i am not too daunted...
Experience....?
83
« on: 30 March 2015, 09:58:50 pm »
So, i am aware there are threads and articles on Downpipe removal, i have seen some of them...
Removing the header nuts......
Who has actually managed to do this and what did you use...
I have soaked them in WD40 for the past 5 days, 2 to 3 times a day....no luck apart from the outer 2 nuts....
I have ordered some plusgas as it has some good reviews...
I could just use more force but dread wreaking the thread, or snapping something...but they must come off it i am to properly treat the rust building up on the downpipes
Anutz
84
« on: 26 March 2015, 05:37:03 pm »
So i have a new end can.... The link pipe will not fit over the existing gasket - i am happy to remove it but not sure what problems i may run in to - aside from it leaking i don't want to be left not able to ride it over the weekend so wandering if anyone has fitted a scorpion end can gasket less....i have a query out to the manufacturer but thought i would ask here...    Thanks
85
« on: 22 March 2015, 07:08:59 pm »
Anyone got an alternative to the C-spanner that comes with the fazer for adjusting the rear shock?
If not i shall have to buy one, or a full kit off eBay as do not see any single ones...
86
« on: 18 March 2015, 11:08:59 pm »
Hi, So i was cleaning my chain and thought i would take off the sprocket cover and clean out all the muck i could see....  That bit i can handle, now on closer inspection their appears to be some damage to the washer.... little blurry so will get some better ones... Added new pic...  Anyone seen this or have any advice - i keep reading there was a issue with 8mm vs 12mm nuts as well so this might be the time to go measure it and check! Anutz
87
« on: 16 March 2015, 07:21:21 am »
Hi,
I want to take the "Fazer" decals off my 2001 FZS600, the 2 "Fazer" signs, one on each side of the front cowling....
Anyone ever tried to take the deals off, any advice, they are clearly not meant to budge!
Anutz
88
« on: 08 March 2015, 06:33:01 pm »
So i did this the wrong way round, posted 3 threads then spotted this..... i have had my FZS600 2001 model now for about 5 weeks and put 500 miles on it - passed my test in 2005 and did not ride anything after that! So its my first bike and its generally going very well.... I live in the North East  Anutz
89
« on: 28 February 2015, 08:33:53 pm »
So, I have been looking at my suspension Forks, and i noticed the following, whilst i figure out what to do about it - comments? They do not leak oil and fluid as far as i can tell when compressed etc....and there is nothing on the wheels/floor....   Anutz
90
« on: 28 February 2015, 12:05:48 pm »
Hello! So i have been getting to grips with my Fazer, 2001 FZS 600, i have managed to now get the fuel tank off and wanted to change the air filter, so this involves removing the fuel tank mounting bracket....well this is where the problem lies... PROBLEM WAS ME - NO NEED TO TAKE OFF BRACKET - READ THE THREAD
One of the bots backed out fine, the other just spins freely in both directions... I can see the brackets are cheap and plentiful on known sites, so that is good....if i have to get a new one.. But the question is any tips on how i get this bolt out - if its a simple case of like any other then i shall spend the day on the internet Anutz
91
« on: 22 February 2015, 08:08:56 am »
Hello,
I have another thread "Low RPM cough cough..." but this is a different questions so thought i would start a new thread...
Removing the fuel tank on my 2001 FZS, process is simple, remove one bolt, pivot the tank and disconnect fuel sensor, disconnect fuel line when fuel tap is off and remove hinge bolt...
But i am struggling to get the fuel hose off the tank...
I now not to just tug at it, last thing i want to do is stretch it and break it....
Any advice, it just seems like it will not budge...i have moved the clip that is on it to a position where it exerts no force...
Thanks
92
« on: 15 February 2015, 05:14:49 pm »
Hello,
This is my first post...
Recently purchased a FZS600 from a private seller, 2001 model with 17,000 miles, very nice condition. Have not been on a bike since 2004, and even then that was for 2 months to get my license...
Anyway i took it slowly, did a back to biking lesson or two on a SV650, then have put about 300 miles on the Fazer over the past few weekend and am enjoying it greatly...
One issue, at low RPM, especially in 1st and 2nd it seems not too happy, it might be me or it might be the bike...i have no idea!
For example i have friends who can let the clutch out in 1st and coast, i don't know if i should be able to or not..but if i do that it wants to cut out, no matter how gentle, it WILL roll forward and keep going but its not happy
So my questions is, the Fazer, do you find it a little touchy at low RPM, roundabouts etc...have had a local bike mechanic say it may well be blocked Jets...
As i am sure you can tell - i am no motorcycle engineer/mechanic so constructive comments please!
Anutz
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