quiet when cold, rattles like mad when warm ??

[markaboot]

A bit of pitting on the shaft, but would not appear to be enough to cause the rattle you have. However the clearance on the impleller to casing is very small and the least bit of wear could cause a rattle as the impeller hits the casing especially under load, but there does not appear to be any scratch marks on the impeller.
Have you ridden the bike with fresh coolant, you may find the rattle is gone since the lower viscosity of the new coolant may not put the pump under as much pressure.
When you put it back together and if the rattle is still there use to screw driver trick to listen to the pump.
The bigest problem with the screwdriver trick is how to filter out the normal sounds from the abnormal sounds.

the biggest problem is reaching the throttle whilst bending down with a screw driver on the water pump 


yea i ride every day at the moment, car is in a worse state of repair!
it did seem quieter today, but then it was raining and much colder than the last couple of days. its only a ten min ride to work so usually only just gets warmed up fully by the time i've arrived.

[unfazed]

Get a very long screwdriver with a bend in the middle 

[markaboot]

checked the water pump this weekend for noise and its quiet, certainly isn't the source of the knocking


its very hard to pin point but i'd say the noise was from the top front quarter if looking from the side, if that makes sense. so the portion above the exhaust manifold, the cam valves or chain guide maybe.


didnt get chance to check the valve clearances unfortunately, so that will be a job for next weekend unless we get a dry sunny evening 

[darrsi]

Don't know if it's been asked before but what oil are you using, out of curiosity?

[dBfazer600]

I know this is opposite to your problem but if carbs and valves are that out or spark issues the two vids below may help if you think they sound is similar.
 

FZS 600 cam chain tick before

 

FZS 600 cam chain tick after

 
I have a need to know what the problem is and it's simply curiosity and frustration (but not as bad as you will be)
 
Daz
 
 

[markaboot]

Don't know if it's been asked before but what oil are you using, out of curiosity?

sorry been busy, oil is castrol power 1 4T 10w-40


just wondering if i should go with a slightly thicker oil?

[darrsi]

No, not at all, 10w/40 is correct.

[markaboot]

well after my mechanic mate talking me into changing the cam chain (for the price of a new chain its not worth risking etc) its not the chain lol

so now me are back to the tensioner, after having it out the 5th time we noticed some play when the spring is in.


when you try to push the tensioner back out the ratchet is locking fine under pressure but there seems so be a good 5 mm movement between clicks.
so what im trying to explain is under compresion the tensioner locks but when released the spring will push it back out about 5 mm without moving on to the next click. think that makes sense. so is it possible that the tensioner is bouncing on the spring?


took a picture today of the contact surface between the tensioner and the guide, down the tensioner hole. i have nothing to compare but it looks like there could be some indication of wear.




any ideas?

[markaboot]

well after a long time I finally had the chance to get round to having a go at getting the bike back on the road.


Unfortunately that wont be happening for while! however on the plus side (not really a plus) I have discovered the source of my rattle.

Some how i have chewed through my big end shells and scored the crank 

[His Dudeness]

20k and the engine ate itself? Never hear of that on a Fazer. Got any pics of her?

[markaboot]

taking it to work with me tomorrow so will take some pics then.
knew it was bad after taking the oil strainer off and it was full of copper shards!

guess i must have had an issue with the oil feed

[Timbollew]

so earlier today i decided i would manually advance the tensioner by one click. got the carbs off again, this time without undoing everything as haynes suggests and just lifting them up out the way.

I need to get in and check my tensioner so I'm interested in your easier technique to get the carbs off. Please enlighten me...
 
I was listening to my engine with screwdriver and it all went wrong 

 

[reddave101]

Had exactly the same problem which was doing my head in. I ended up stripping the engine completely to no conclusion..BUT it is now cured.. Very simple after all that.. Changed oil, filter to high grade 10/40 and made a oil filler breather. The only reason I came to this check was from time to time I noticed the bike had more torque than before and the clutch would become stiff and heavy. So after no end of research and came to my own conclusions I ended up thinking there may possibly be too much air building up in the crankcase and causing loads of torque to release the air pressure because after a short blast the torque would slacken off and would get a rattle..


Now just to point out my fazer 600 98 model has a few performance upgrades which may not of helped with mine but after I've made a oil breather to replace the filler cap, blocked off the air inlet to the air box and rerouted the crankcase breather pipe, all rattling has gone and even the fuel economy is better, and throttle response is 100% better. Hope that gives you some more insight into a cure for you..

[markaboot]

Had exactly the same problem which was doing my head in. I ended up stripping the engine completely to no conclusion..BUT it is now cured.. Very simple after all that.. Changed oil, filter to high grade 10/40 and made a oil filler breather. The only reason I came to this check was from time to time I noticed the bike had more torque than before and the clutch would become stiff and heavy. So after no end of research and came to my own conclusions I ended up thinking there may possibly be too much air building up in the crankcase and causing loads of torque to release the air pressure because after a short blast the torque would slacken off and would get a rattle..


Now just to point out my fazer 600 98 model has a few performance upgrades which may not of helped with mine but after I've made a oil breather to replace the filler cap, blocked off the air inlet to the air box and rerouted the crankcase breather pipe, all rattling has gone and even the fuel economy is better, and throttle response is 100% better. Hope that gives you some more insight into a cure for you..

interesting! would be worth doing a little how to on this or at the least a few pics please

[markaboot]

as promised a few pics.



what i found when i took the oil strainer off    not a good sign!



the damage on number 4



number 4's bearing



the damage to number 3



whats left of number 3's bearing, the missing bit fell out after removing the con rod not before. also note the discolouration of the steel, thats been hot!



a comparison of the colour difference, number two also has play and is a little tight to turn. main bearings don't look great either.


on the plus side my 'new old stock' crank arrived today now i need to source bearings.


can anyone recommend a good place to buy bearing shells from?

[reddave101]

Had exactly the same problem which was doing my head in. I ended up stripping the engine completely to no conclusion..BUT it is now cured.. Very simple after all that.. Changed oil, filter to high grade 10/40 and made a oil filler breather. The only reason I came to this check was from time to time I noticed the bike had more torque than before and the clutch would become stiff and heavy. So after no end of research and came to my own conclusions I ended up thinking there may possibly be too much air building up in the crankcase and causing loads of torque to release the air pressure because after a short blast the torque would slacken off and would get a rattle..

Now just to point out my fazer 600 98 model has a few performance upgrades which may not of helped with mine but after I've made a oil breather to replace the filler cap, blocked off the air inlet to the air box and rerouted the crankcase breather pipe, all rattling has gone and even the fuel economy is better, and throttle response is 100% better. Hope that gives you some more insight into a cure for you..

interesting! would be worth doing a little how to on this or at the least a few pics please

Will Upload pics Later. A little how to.


I managed to find a valve stem at work with the same thread and size as my oil filler cap, removed the bearing from inside the valve as it was inlet and not outlet( would suck in but not blow out) which left the valve open.. Simply went shop bought a fuel hose(in red to match bike), air filter with stem on and just screwed one side of the pipe to the filler cap end and the other side to the filter and cable tied it along the frame and behind the pillion foot peg(you can smell the fumes coming out, so rather behind me).


Crankcase breather- removed the breather pipe and bought a longer peice. Had trouble getting the right diameter, so just soaked the biggest hose I could get in boiling water to relax the rubber and fitted snugly over the crankcase flute and then just routed it through the same restraints as the fuel overflow pipe down under the bike..


Air box.- Very simply just removed the L union and put a rubber blank gromit into the hole as didn't want extra air getting in. Does throw mixture slightly out but very easy to make the necessary adjustments to compensate...
Also removed the blank plate inside the airbox to allow the fresh air to circulate around the filter better.. Now sounds like a turbo under the tank as the air is sucked in lol. Everything seems to respond better with these very simple mods,. Throttle is more responsive, fuel economy is better, and the annoying tick is gone. Also power delivery is smoother..