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Messages - markaboot
26
« on: 08 May 2013, 06:22:21 pm »
the noise is low down or central, tbh its really hard to pin point its location or even which side. i'll try the screwdriver to the ear trick tomorrow.
Have you checked the carb balance as out of balance carbs can give you a very similar noise?
carbs were balanced last year, can they really be that out in that space of time?
27
« on: 08 May 2013, 01:02:57 pm »
Can't see the picture, but I had the same thing in my coolant... like the alcohol in the antifreeze went back to being a sugar... I just flushed it load and topped it up, no problems yet but will only see the next time I drain.
Is antifreeze really a better coolant than water?
i believe its more the anti freezing and anti corrosion properties you're after.
28
« on: 08 May 2013, 09:45:25 am »
stick a screwdriver on the starter clutch cover and have a listen. they can rattle
will do, thanks. i do have starting issues sometimes, where battery seems to die for no reason. i can crack bike up fine, ride 10 mins home, park up on the back alley open the gate. get back on and i have nothing, just dead. guess i'll just have to keep pulling things apart till i find the problem.
29
« on: 08 May 2013, 09:38:53 am »
Mine looked just like that 2 years ago when I first changed the coolant after my first servicing. I put it down to not being changed EVER in the 10+ years the bikes been around.
Coolant just changed. This time the waste looked much better - no 'oil' etc.
Could be wrong though! 
thats what i put it down to at first, it did still have that greeny fluorescent yellow tinge to it. i'm gunna rad flush soon, just running with clean water in for a week and then drain it all off and check again.
30
« on: 06 May 2013, 02:26:43 pm »
Had the water pump out this morning, looks fine, no play its clean, seals look good. No obvious signs of water and oil mixing, no mayo.
The coolant level has never dropped nor has oil level. Its possible a previous owner used a very light oil as coolant or a dark orange coolant perhaps.
A compression test showed even cylinder pressures.
31
« on: 06 May 2013, 02:17:29 pm »
Water pump is fine, no play, clean and no sign of any mayo.
Also did a compression check round my mates and got 90psi on each cylinder. Haynes says 170 min but I did this dry, with the other plugs in and a dieing batt.
Didn't want to bother him too long as he was busy but got even results so didn't put oil down.
He did suggest that as I have never changed the coolant it was possible that a previous owner has put some oil in instead of or as well as coolant to stop corrosion.
Think the next job is rocker cover off and check valve clearances.
32
« on: 05 May 2013, 08:30:04 pm »
yes !
33
« on: 05 May 2013, 08:29:35 pm »
Three posibilities Water pump , head gasket or oil cooler .
Most likely the water pump mechanical seal if there is no coolant in the oil.
yea oil looks ok from looking in the cap and window. very slight mayo on the cap thread, that normally i'd put down to condensation, im talking minimal amount, tiny tiny. but then oil floats on water so any water would be in the bottom. the coolant deff had an oily smell and feel on my fingers, but i've never seen oil and water mix without turning into mayo.
34
« on: 05 May 2013, 08:14:08 pm »
the noise is low down or central, tbh its really hard to pin point its location or even which side. i'll try the screwdriver to the ear trick tomorrow.
35
« on: 05 May 2013, 07:03:58 pm »
yea well i've had cam rattle before and it was never this harsh, plus with the tensioner checked i think i've ruled that out.
36
« on: 05 May 2013, 07:00:37 pm »
yea me too 
37
« on: 05 May 2013, 05:37:44 pm »
i know its long and dull and to most pointless but it does show the time scale at which this noise develops, for those that are interested lol.
38
« on: 05 May 2013, 05:12:01 pm »
i flushed it all today, fresh water in. will run it a couple of times then flush again and put antifreeze in.
if was oil would i not have mayo in the radiator cap or worse on the oil cap?
i think its probably just really old coolant and well overdue a change.
39
« on: 05 May 2013, 05:05:10 pm »
i believe the trick with rolling it backwards is to provide enough slack on the tensioner side for it to jump another click. having had it out for the third time this week it doesn't take that long when you know how. - tank off
- battery out
- airbox side covers off
- release the bracket across the frame
- ht leads off the plugs then fold the lot back over towards the seat
- release the bracket holding the tank drain
- undo the two side nuts holding the air box
- release the clamps on the intake side of the carbs
- slide the air box back into battery space and then tighten the two side nuts to hold it in place.
- undo the clamps engine side of the carbs and then lift the carbs up
- secure them up in place
you should then have enough space to remove the tensioner without disconnecting everything
40
« on: 05 May 2013, 04:41:19 pm »
thought so, doing a compression test now.
edit: no i'm not because i don't have the right adapter
41
« on: 05 May 2013, 04:18:32 pm »
mine looked like this!   had to double check if it was water cooled or not, it looked like oil and smelt a bit like burnt caramel.
42
« on: 05 May 2013, 02:35:19 pm »
yep i have one. after it being on so long i think the bike would look weird without it. the original fender just looks too high.
43
« on: 05 May 2013, 02:33:04 pm »
also here is a video as promised
this is after my short jouney home from work. also have a full length video of that journey so you can hear the noise develop, just waiting for it to upload.
44
« on: 05 May 2013, 02:29:57 pm »
well i've had a play and all is not well after following the haynes manual i removed the carbs the long and difficult way. got the tensioner out and it looked like this.  its spotless, no gunk, moves freely, little to no wear. i cant push the tensioner back out by hand without releasing the ratchet. i counted 8 notches. when pushed all the way out it looked like this  i counted about 13 or 14 notches at its maximum. so i don't think the chain is beyond its wear limit. on the advice of a bike mechanic friend i added an extra bearing to increase the spring strength. i didnt have a bearing but used an m3 nut instead in this order.  i then put all the relevant bits back on etc etc and rode the bike home. as usual within ten mins of riding the rattle was back  balls! so earlier today i decided i would manually advance the tensioner by one click. got the carbs off again, this time without undoing everything as haynes suggests and just lifting them up out the way. as i put the tensioner back in (now adjusted by one click) it seemed tight before it reached the engine block, the bolts pulled it in the last 3mm or so. everything back on, cracked her up and within ten mins engine is rattling away again, no change  balls again! now i have to repeat the whole process again to return the tensioner back it its correct auto adjusted position. so i think i can safely rule out the cam chain tension as the problem? so if its not cam chain rattle, what else could it be? valve clearances? by the way if not already mentioned bike is just under the 20000 mark. sorry for the huge pics!
45
« on: 27 April 2013, 10:15:16 pm »
Looking at mounting some extra lights on somewhere, would like to ride daytime without headlights if possible. My short journey to work and back isn't giving the battery long enough to charge. My original idea was these  but with them being 1.8cm wide and the lip under the headlight only being big enough for 1cm im back to the drawing board. thinking of mounting something under the fairing or using the bolt holes the original brake lines mounted too between the forks. so lets see what you got, where its mounted, cost etc
46
« on: 27 April 2013, 10:04:47 pm »
47
« on: 27 April 2013, 01:44:53 pm »
think i'll go yuasa, they seem to have come down in price to match the motobatt.
just for anyone else finding this thread, from yuasa website:
Cold Cranking Performance (Amps) – SAEThe Cold Cranking Performance (CCA) measures the starting performance of the battery. In simple terms, the higher the CCA, the easier it will be to start the vehicle.This is the starting test according to the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers). The test specifies that the battery at a temperature of –18°C will deliver a current equal to the Cold Cranking Amps for 30 seconds with the voltage staying above 7.2 volts (3.6 volts for a 6 volt battery).Battery performance drops off quickly with temperature, so this test is a good check of a battery’s starting ability.Some other manufacturers use other CCA standards, for example, DIN, the German standard, JIS, the Japanese standard, ETN, the European standard etc. These will give different values to the SAE value.
Ampere-Hour Capacity at 20 Hour Rate (Ah)The Ampere-Hour Capacity measures the total amount of electricity stored in a battery.An Ampere-hour represents the amount of electricity when a current of 1 Ampere passes for 1 hour.The Ampere-Hour Capacity varies with the rate at which the battery is discharged; the slower the discharge, the greater the amount of electricity that the battery will deliver.The Ampere-Hour Capacity is the amount of electricity that a battery will deliver during 20 hours before the voltage falls to 10.50V. For example, a 60Ah battery will deliver a current of 3A for 20 hours.
48
« on: 27 April 2013, 11:08:48 am »
you tried rolling it backwards in gear with the plugs out?
ride it up a hill somewhere, i use the back alley. take the plugs out or put it in 5th and let it roll backwards.
taking plugs out is the preferred method but im lazy and dont have the time to mess about with plugs.
make sure around the plugs is cleaned before taking them out!
49
« on: 27 April 2013, 11:05:49 am »
I'd be tempted on the Yuasa for the higher CCA... not sure if that's a justifiable reason though :P
i know, CCA vs Ah? i had to choose between headlights or heated grips previously but i think thats because the current yuasa battery was on its way out. at the moment im choosing between headlights and it not starting lol.
50
« on: 27 April 2013, 10:52:29 am »
Is the noise still there if you pull the clutch in? If you increase the revs does the noise go or get worse?
yea when i pull the clutch, roll and let revs drop noise goes. increased revs increases the rattle. i'm having battery issues at the moment so haven't had chance to sort a video out. however i did roll backwards down the back alley again and its seems to have improved slightly but hasn't cured it. its still there but not as loud. i'm still thinking cam chain, need to get the carbs off n check the tensioner
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