Fazer Owners Club - Unofficial
Bikes, Hints'n'Tips => Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner => Topic started by: Mustang on 09 January 2018, 05:50:01 pm
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Decided it starts today , list of jobs: remove AIS, check valve clearances, remove carbs and airbox, remove exhaust and paint engine, replace carb to head rubbers, balance carbs.
So far I've followed the guides on pats page, dropped the coolant - it was just rusty water no antifreeze, removed the AIS and tapped the exhaust ports. That was a pig of a job with such restricted space, I feared my tap was going to snap but I managed it in the end and cut down some M8 cap screws to 10mm to go in.
Front of the engine is filthy so I'm soaking the exhaust nuts overnight as they will have to come off for access.
Does anyone have a blanking cap for the airbox I could buy?
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Look around the larder and the fridge. There's sure to be a bottle cap or similar that will fit. A dab of silicon and job's a good 'un. :)
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Reading this made me think back to what I’d used. Last night I couldn’t for the life of me recall even though it was only a few months ago! But I now do; a walking stick rubber! It fit an absolute treat and almost looks OEM.
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Reading this made me think back to what I’d used. Last night I couldn’t for the life of me recall even though it was only a few months ago! But I now do; a walking stick rubber! It fit an absolute treat and almost looks OEM.
You go steady when you go out walking now you old bugger with the tip missing off your walking stick :lol
Mind you it is better its only the tip of your walking stick that's missing :eek
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Got the cam over off and greeted by the horrors around the bottom of the water pipes, grit and mess. Managed to pick out as much crap as I could before leaving it to dry, see if I can vacuum out the rest. I've bought some new o rings for the seals on them, does anyone take these out for cleaning, painting , etc?
Also had to shell out for a new cam over gasket as Yamaha make the spark plug seals one piece with the cover, that's a rip off.
Just started the valve clearance check, done no 1 cylinder, will post up readings for comment later.
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Pics
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Checking these clearances, I think I need 11 to bring the tight ones up a bit.
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Cams out and shims measured one by one. All factory shims I recon, never been done before.
Now I need another gasket for the cam chain tensioner! Why not an O ring ffs.
Much easier on sportsbikes, this has so far been more awkward.
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Glad you're having fun! :eek
I was lucky, my valve clearances were all fine. :woot
It'll all be worth it in the end! :)
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Managed to swop some around on paper anyway , so I've ordered the rest plus a couple of spares.
I struggled getting the feeler gauges in as I had to combine 2 thin ones for example 0.11mm, needs a 0.05 and 0.06mm. They don't have as much rigidity as a single blade.
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Cam cover gasket and water pipe o rings arrived today, good old Fowlers.
While I'm waiting for the shims to arrive, I've pulled the water pipes and cleaned them up. The old o rings were shot, hardened and locked in with corrosion so all that got scraped out of the head and cleaned up. Pipes wire brushed and got a lick of silver hammerite.
NEw o rings greased up and slipped over the pipes and refitted with new stainless bolts. Pipes were quite corroded at the top, hope they don't leak. Although you can pull these pipes out without removing the cam cover now I see how it all goes together.
Old cam cover gasket removed, there's a world of difference with a 15 year old seal compared to a new one.
Tried to remove the flaking paint from the cam cover with nitro ours but it's not very effective, so I did my best with scraper and scotch pad then wet n dry. Blew it over with simonize engine enamel.
Tidied up the radiator mounts as my bike was a write off it has a non standard rad, so the fan was only held on with one bolt and a tiny fixing under another. Fabbed up some adaptor plates and now have 3 mounts.
Took off the coils and cleaned up the earth mounts, quite a bit of rust going on there.
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Hi :D
Just asking a question really.
You say you have greased up the new O rings and have put them back in place, just wondered what you greased them up with?
Ordinary mineral grease will attack rubber and cause it to deteriate much quicker than Silicon grease or Red Rubber waterbproof grease, you should not really use mineral grease in this situation for the same reason as you would not use it on calliper pistons. (Rubber seals)
The other thing worth doing is when fitting new gasket to engine cases or covers, is to lightly smear one of the mating faces with a jointing compound and the other side with grease, the next time the cases come apart the gasket will not tear as it will stay on the jointing compound side and the greased side will not stick to the other because of the grease, it will just stick to one side of the joint, save a fortune in gaskets and also the time waiting three days for the replacement gaskets to arrive from eGay.
Just a thought
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@tommyyardin, Thanks for asking.
Of course I Used red rubber grease, but thanks for showing some interest in my post.
The o rings themselves appear to be some special compound being a darkish red colour, perhaps viton? This must be for high temperature operation as normal epdm rubber would have cracked and the old ones came out in one piece, so they were well worth the £2 each I think.
I'm always wary of putting grease on gaskets as it can cause them to 'spread', mind youI can't see that happening with a hard paper type seal, I will [size=78%]try that with he oil pump cover and cam chain adjuster ones.[/size]
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Blimey reading this post makes me think I should be doing mine ..she's up to 27k now... :eek I feel the urge :evil
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Blimey reading this post makes me think I should be doing mine ..she's up to 27k now... :eek I feel the urge :evil
Once you start its not so bad, I have a car and another bike which makes it easier.
Its pretty daunting if you've not done anything similar before, but well within the home mechanics ability.
Sportsbikes are a lot easier - tank off, airbox off, cam cover, bang - your there.
My valves were almost all just in spec so at 27k you might be ok, but look at the state of the water pipes, etc, its time on the road that matters and winter/wet riding.
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Nothing wrong with checking the valve clearances, but (if you search the forums) on these engines there's only a very small chance that they need adjusting during the life of the bike, even at 100,000 miles up. I checked mine for the first time at 91,000 miles but only because I had the cambox cover off for painting, all were well inside tolerance.
I think one women in the states had just one exhaust valve reshimmed after 200,000 miles and then only because it was close to tolerance -but not actually out.
Don't sweat it if you put off checking valve clearances, they are probably fine.
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Does anyone have a blanking cap for the airbox I could buy?
I measured and used these, dropped in hot water and fitted. Nice and tight fit.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ferrules-External-Plastic-End-Caps-Rods-Chairs-Feet-Cable-Wires-Protector/222046375892?hash=item33b2fecfd4:m:mrEnUAEkR4pRM03zkoeI3uA (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ferrules-External-Plastic-End-Caps-Rods-Chairs-Feet-Cable-Wires-Protector/222046375892?hash=item33b2fecfd4:m:mrEnUAEkR4pRM03zkoeI3uA)
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What size blanking cap do you need? I have a couple of blanking caps that might fit, if you pm me your address I will post them to you for free.
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What size blanking cap do you need? I have a couple of blanking caps that might fit, if you pm me your address I will post them to you for free.
Thanks mate ill do that
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@ Mitch, thanks for the feedback, I struggled a little with the pipes at 1st until I realised you can get them out with water pump pliers just turning them and rocking a little. There will be some crap that comes out with them, you need to catch this or it will end up it he head.
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A job well-jobbed as my dad would say. :)
I've removed and refitted my cam cover gasket many times. Did yours tear when you removed it?
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A job well-jobbed as my dad would say. :)
I've removed and refitted my cam cover gasket many times. Did yours tear when you removed it?
I too have reused cam cover gaskets on other bikes, the part I wanted to replace was the spark plug and water pump seals, I've has them leak before on a zx9r and pissed oil down the water drain hole, across my boots and tyres! Yamaha make these part of the cam cover gasket for some profit based reason.
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I usually use a micrometer to check the sizes as the etched numbers are not always exactly correct.
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I usually use a micrometer to check the sizes as the etched numbers are not always exactly correct.
Is that the micrometer that you were knocking nails in with :eek
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Of course, but you need to add a bit of pipe to the adjuster to give a better bang. :)
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Cleaned up the water pipe splitter that sits under the frame, lot of corrosion around the open ends, spun this off with a wire wheel in the drill, got a couple of pinholes now. Used some steelseal to coat the ends up and build up the thin metal. Then a coat of satin black.
I'm still waiting for the shims to turn up so there's not much I can do. I've coated the new gaskets with sealant and stuck them onto one side of the covers, syphoned out the expansion tank, ordered some moly grease and coolant.
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Wrong forum, thought this was FZS600...
These were mine at 56000km/34800miles:
(https://i.imgur.com/SQDsKIg.png)
I left them alone, but I see now that I should probably swap them next time around...
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Valves clearances all adjusted and rechecked, shims turned up yesterday.
Mostly in the midrange a couple at the top end as I can't measure the shims right sometimes.
Covers back on and top end water system all painted up and refitted.
Next job, dropped the exhaust off so I can clean up and paint the motor. Might have to get another water pipe o ring though as the lower pipe is fitted same as the top ones.
Feeling pretty pleased the exhaust nuts spun off ok, they are sitting in some harpic now to clean up.
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Next job
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Im sure you would have done, but shove some rags in those 4 holes to stop shite going in :)
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Well after 7 days of flu including 3 bedridden, I managed a bit more today.
Gave the front on the engine a scrubbing with paraffin then some brake cleaner prior to thinking about painting. I'm concerned as there is still a lot of stuff in the way, oil cooler, oil filter, engine mounts. Do I just mask off as much as poss?
Took the exup valve out and greased it all up. I think it wasn't seated right before as it would not rest over the locking hole but now I've had it all out I've made it fit. This does rotate clockwise from closed doesn't it? Looking at the pulley side that is.
Gave the rest of the down pipes a real clean with harpic and emery cloth, exhaust gaskets pried out, can I reuse them? That's it for now.
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When I did the front of my engine I took everything off, oil cooler, filter, pipes out of the engine, everything then just masked up the frame. Seemed the best and easiest way and it worked well
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Took off the oil cooler and water pipes, bad corrosion on the oil cooler water pipes, pinholes. So out comes the chemical metal again. This bikes been run for some time with just water in there and it's taken its toll. I'm gonna have to flush it and maybe try some rad flush as well. Gave the bits a coat of paint now it's down to making the motor off and spraying it up.
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Well it's done, apart from the carbs but I had to reassemble and test the oil n water tightness.
Sprayed up the motor in the frame but it was a bit cold so parts had to be done again with a heater on them. Had a couple of small leaks on the cooler pipes which were a bit of a pig to get to with the down pipes back on but it seems ok now, just running it with soft water for now to check its all sound and after a road test I'll swop it for coolant.
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Looks better
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nice job there... :)
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Sweeeet :thumbup :thumbup
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Put fresh coolant in it and thats as far as Ive got at the moment. Bikes all back together, not started the carbs yet, struggling a little with motivation and its bloody cold too. Thinking about a Ivans jet kit while the carbs are out - anyone selling one?
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Great job, nice thread, cheers