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Messages - NorthWestern
26
« on: 30 March 2019, 06:15:04 am »
Double sided tape does the trick to restick used weights if you have no new ones. You will likely need to reshape them though as they bend a bit when getting them off.
27
« on: 08 March 2019, 07:26:53 pm »
There are also posts where people throw hissy fits.
28
« on: 26 February 2019, 07:11:27 pm »
I believe you can just pop the oil seal off and replace once you have the sprocket removed . My friend did his r1 4xv (for this job it's the same engine) , only took ten mins. His had worn out for whatever reason.
29
« on: 25 February 2019, 07:33:44 pm »
Yeah they are the same. I transferred my rails from a 2001 to a 2004.
30
« on: 30 December 2018, 08:57:17 am »
How much are those velleman kits? I too thought about a pump but as the easiest place to put the bottle is at the seat area might as well let gravity do the work and keep it simple (and cheap)
31
« on: 29 December 2018, 08:02:11 am »
My scotoiler vacuum diaphragm split in the rmv, £50 for a replacement! I retro fit a pull selonoid £2 that replaced the whole vacume side of the system, works a charm.
32
« on: 20 December 2018, 07:17:46 am »
My first gen 1 had this issue. I drilled out the rivet, the spring washers had corroded inside the hinge so I ordered new springs off ebay (about 60p). While I waited for delivery I built it back up with a washer to compensate for the missing springs which was OK but couldn't be folded back properly... You could just bolt it up solid.
33
« on: 17 December 2018, 06:28:39 pm »
I got one a few years ago, needed an otg cable. I used it on a galaxy s5 and s6 without issues. A mate also got one at the same time for his android (some Sony model) which also worked fine.
The sellers usually list compatible phones in the ads
34
« on: 17 December 2018, 05:54:21 pm »
Cheap ones are available for about a fiver and give decent images/video. They do fall apart after a while though, glass pops off etc. Also waterproof if you have an inquisitive mind...
35
« on: 15 December 2018, 04:58:40 pm »
I cleaned up the area before welding. Didn't take long to return to the dusty brownish colour so suspect it would need some maintenance polishes quite frequently...
36
« on: 09 December 2018, 04:52:43 pm »
I welded a spring hook on for an akrapovic pipe, the collector box is stainless. Welded fine though...
37
« on: 30 November 2018, 11:00:42 am »
You should be able to rebuild/regas the standard shock. I have done it to the std Gen 1 shock, its not a problem. Any suspension place would be able to do it really.
38
« on: 17 November 2018, 07:49:52 am »
Brexit?
39
« on: 18 October 2018, 09:13:51 am »
Frosties - Yeah you just sign in, I have a google account that I just use for signing up for stuff etc. It seems to work best on natural images, landscapes etc. For man made stuff, like the fazer etc it doesn't seem to merge the other images in organically. https://deepdreamgenerator.com/
40
« on: 17 October 2018, 01:19:04 pm »
I ran some pictures of my (old) Fazer through an AI programme developed by Google (Deep Dream). Here is what it produced. Some stylised images:   Psychedelic era!   Apparently it sees a lot of wolf/canine in the image... An eye on the top box? The background trees/bushes look great, im sure I see a Chinese Dragon in the lower right bit above the grass...!  something different at least 
41
« on: 05 October 2018, 08:08:16 pm »
Check aliexpress. You can get waterproof led brake lights for about £3, you can even get a strip that does indicators as well, all in one but that is more expensive, about £4.50 Example : https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bgKLXX5r
42
« on: 27 September 2018, 07:21:21 pm »
Ford orion ghia cabriolet. Envy of the estate
43
« on: 26 September 2018, 11:08:34 am »
Mine snapped when I was rear ended and the exhaust was shunted forward. I replaced the inners with the venhill rebuild kit, about £10. Did 30 k or so before selling it and are still on now so they are decent.
44
« on: 27 August 2018, 08:08:44 pm »
Just short the clutch switch (ie unplug and short the connector) , it doesn't have to actually pull the clutch. Or just tape the switch up, your just fooling it into thinking its pulled in.
45
« on: 10 August 2018, 03:18:04 pm »
Indeed sharpie! Car shampoo/Paraffin has always been my preference...
46
« on: 10 August 2018, 03:05:36 pm »
Does anyone use these types of products?
I have been using it for a bit (got 2 bottles at a closing down sale) but have noticed that whenever I need to do anything on the bike everything is bone dry rather than retaining any lubricant/grease! Changed the tires, the front pinch bolt on the forks was proper dry and took a fair amount of force. Likewise the spindle at the clamp end was bone dry and needed a lot of persuasion. Rear spindle was the same. My front brake lever was feeling a bit notchy so I took it off and cleaned/lubed the pivot points etc but again, the bolts,bushing etc were bone dry.
You could say that maybe it was the bike but I have serviced these things since owning and always greased them up etc, never had a problem before using this muc off. Think I will give it a miss...
47
« on: 10 August 2018, 02:59:39 pm »
Been looking for a weekend bike but couldn't really see anything that takes my fancy... 10 mins on photoshop later.... Might have to see about building this... 
48
« on: 05 August 2018, 05:16:26 pm »
What about the sprocket carrier or swingarm bearing?
49
« on: 31 July 2018, 09:55:54 pm »
You could take a look at my post outlining how I fit an r1 rear. If you can get stuff machined and a small amount of tig welding it's pretty straight forward. Plus at the end of it you have a factory looking blue spot r1 caliper, unmodified wheel/disc and no torque arm for a clean look.
Should be same as fitting a gen2 wheel essentially
50
« on: 05 July 2018, 08:34:34 pm »
Obvious thing would be to clean the engine so you can see where the leak comes from.
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