Nice 1 thanks for the link. I’m hoping the strip and clean is now a permanent fix, I will update again if I have any more issues 👍🏻

Update! All good so far, used bike all last week in heavy rain on the motorway and no issues. After studying the ignition circuit on the wiring diagram I’m pretty sure the problem was the ignition switch all along. When I park the bike up at work or when I’m washing the bike I now put a tight fitting plastic bottle lid over the ignition barrel to stop any more water from getting in there.

Ok, battery voltage after 3 days standing is 12.7 when off so that’s healthy. I drained the fuel bowls and no water in the fuel. Pump whirred up and she fired up with no problems which is quite annoying as I still have no idea why she wouldn’t start 3 days ago. I have been experiencing a sticky ignition barrel so put electrical contact cleaner in followed by a small amount of WD40 and it’s fine now. I did check the air filter too and it’s filthy and black and the sponge is starting to come off on the inside. It’s a pipercross filter that Mike fitted about 6 years ago when he Ivanised the bike. I do clean it yearly but it’s so bad this time I’ve just ordered a new one. I’ve also cleaned the connector going into the Cdi unit and put electrical insulation grease in the contacts to protect it from the damp. I’ll update again once I’ve put the new air filter in and see if there’s any more issues. Just for other peoples information, the bike still started even with the fuel pump electrical plug disconnected!

Hi, I went to start my 2003 FZS 1000 last night and she just spun up and didn't fire. Now I use the bike every day for work all weathers and she never misses a beat.
 
I left it a couple of minutes and tried again, she did eventually fire up. I then rode 40 miles home down the motorway and went to fill up ready for work again today.
 
Bearing in mind the engine was hot and fully up to temperature after the 40 mile ride, the same thing happened again. She spun over and over but wouldn't fire up.


I waited a minute and tried again, no luck. Last time and a big handful of throttle and she fired up!
Any ideas guys?
 
I put a new battery on a couple of months ago and it spins up with plenty of power, so I know the battery is fine.


I have a feeling it may be the fuel pump as it is a hot and cold start issue but if anyone else has experienced the same thing I'd be interested to know what you found.

Hi all just bought a 2000 fzs 600 as a non runner. Took carbs out, stripped ultrasonically cleaned, replaced all o rings. She now starts on the button but has a slight missfire under load or opening the throttle between 1-2000 rpm. Above 2000rpm the bike pulls cleanly all the way through the rev range. Before I strip the carbs down again does anyone have any ideas? I’ve trimmed the HT leads down by 10mm and set the TPS to 5k as per the manual. I still need to balance the carbs but not sure if it’s a good idea with the missfire, or could that be the reason it’s misfiring?
Any advice greatly appreciated.

Hi yes mildly tuned, full Monty Ivan’s kit fitted by Mike, MotoGP slip on end can, Pipercross filter and that’s about it. It’s been fine for years, I balance carbs yearly and she pulls through to the redline cleanly in every gear. At around 105-110mph the vibration starts. If you keep the throttle pinned you can ride through most of it. It also has 2002 R1 USD fork conversion but easily hit 160 before with no vibes. I’m veering towards the Michelin Road 5 tyres now as there’s not much else left to check. Bit annoying as they’re bloody new tyres!

Yup, checked all bearings. Just changed chain and sprockets as they were well worn, so while it was all apart I checked the sprocket carrier bearing too. Wheels were balanced on the tyre garages machine that spins the wheel with the new tyre up to a certain speed , so not statically balanced. I’m stumped…

Hi people, just wondering if anyone else has experienced high speed vibrations on a Gen 1 thou that start around 100 mph upwards (at the Isle of Man before anyone starts saying anything!) I’ve checked wheel bearings, head bearings, swing arm, replaced chain & sprockets, checked engine mounting bolts, tyre pressures, etc but all ok. I took the wheels to my local tyre fitters just to re check the balance and all is ok. I don’t think it’s an engine internal vibration as it pulls through all the revs to the red line no problem. I’m stumped for ideas now. I’ve checked the mirrors and fairing mounts too. The only change is new ish (400 miles ago) Michelin Road 5 tyres. Never really noticed it with the 4’s.

Ok well it’s now sorted. I wasn’t comfortable thrashing a rattly engine so I took the tensioner out again and released it by one extra click. It fitted in the engine nicely so put it back together and torqued it up. Carbs back in and then I took the generator cover off and turned the engine over by hand a few times to make sure everything was ok. She fired up on the button and the noise has gone. Thank you for your input people, but the bike is now quiet again 

Hi folks, just bought a (fairly cheap) 2000 Fazer 600 with 19,000 miles on. It sounds like the cam chain has a rattle. The oil level is correct and I just took the tensioner out and there is lots of clicks left on it so am I right in thinking the chain is not worn? I put the housing back on and torqued it up then put the ball bearing, double spring and the other ball bearing in then the cap and torqued. Carbs back on and the noise is still there. Any suggestions, I can’t imagine the cam chain is nackered after 19,000 miles. Are there any tricks or tips to get the tensioner to come out a bit more? I tried the rear wheel in gear backwards but this didn’t help either. I’m stumped at the mo. Noise eventually goes after a few miles once fully warmed up. 

Ok do you mean the metal bracket in the headlight itself? Did you have to take the actual headlight unit apart to get it out?

Mainly because it had more throttle snatch which at the time I found a bit uncivilised but now I kinda miss it and it seemed to have more low down grunt, the gen2 handles much better though, mine is an 08 I've read earliar models still had the snatch, I did like the older school tech on the gen1 but that's probably just my age

I’m on my 2nd Gen 1, had the Gen 2 but after spending a lot of money trying to eliminate the throttle snatch I got rid of it. Shame as it looked great, handled well and was quick but I couldn’t put up with the poxy snatchy throttle. Once Mike had Ivanised my Gen 1 the difference was massive.