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Fazer 1000/FZ1 corner / Gen 1 electrical problems. Help me understand
« on: 16 January 2020, 02:01:27 pm »
Bought a FZS1000 with dead start circuitry. Long story so will shorten:
Found open circuit sidestand and neutral switches. Replaced but still no go. Tested all relevant loom wiring for continuity. All good. All other electrical items working perfectly - clocks, lights. rad fan, exup etc..
Turned attention to the starter cutoff relay. I had two of these as previous owner had replaced the original but didn't fix. Tested the diodes in both units. Two in each were closed circuit (0 Ohms) both polarities. Rather than buy another relay and blow that too I decided to open them up and take a look. The PCB tracks from the cathodes of both blown diodes in both units leading to the pinouts were cooked/open circuit and the common anode track to its pin had got hot too but not open circuit. Some how an over-current had occured.
Soldered in two uprated diodes and repaired the tracks. Plugged it in and all was well. Started perfectly and all the neut/clutch/stand switch interlocks worked as expected.
The only path I can see for an over current situation is for the blue/yellow - L/Y wire from the clutch switch to somehow have +12V on it then running to ground via the neutral (sky blue - Sb) and/or stand switch blue/black - L/B). As I never found the original, diode popping fault I will always worry that it will happen again. I always carry the repaired second relay in case.
I've attached a pic of the relevant bit of the circuit diagram to hopefully make it clearer what I am wittering on about.
Any ideas what caused this ? All thoughts gratefully received.
PS Love riding the bike. I can see why they have such a fan base.
Found open circuit sidestand and neutral switches. Replaced but still no go. Tested all relevant loom wiring for continuity. All good. All other electrical items working perfectly - clocks, lights. rad fan, exup etc..
Turned attention to the starter cutoff relay. I had two of these as previous owner had replaced the original but didn't fix. Tested the diodes in both units. Two in each were closed circuit (0 Ohms) both polarities. Rather than buy another relay and blow that too I decided to open them up and take a look. The PCB tracks from the cathodes of both blown diodes in both units leading to the pinouts were cooked/open circuit and the common anode track to its pin had got hot too but not open circuit. Some how an over-current had occured.
Soldered in two uprated diodes and repaired the tracks. Plugged it in and all was well. Started perfectly and all the neut/clutch/stand switch interlocks worked as expected.
The only path I can see for an over current situation is for the blue/yellow - L/Y wire from the clutch switch to somehow have +12V on it then running to ground via the neutral (sky blue - Sb) and/or stand switch blue/black - L/B). As I never found the original, diode popping fault I will always worry that it will happen again. I always carry the repaired second relay in case.
I've attached a pic of the relevant bit of the circuit diagram to hopefully make it clearer what I am wittering on about.
Any ideas what caused this ? All thoughts gratefully received.
PS Love riding the bike. I can see why they have such a fan base.