Disassembled the engine, removed the gears. TBH the gear dogs didn't seem too terrible, but if it jumps out of gear what can I do...I was lucky to find a low mileage gearbox from a '94 FZR600R, and combined the best gears into a working unit. The 2nd gear pinion is a b**** to remove and install... Now I wait for some Loctite sealant, then I'll reassemble the engine.Just for my own entertainement, added the costs of necessary parts together, if everything was new. Wow. Good thing that almost everything's available new, but a complete transmission overhaul, some crankshaft bearings, a complete gasket set adds up to the value of my bike, even if every work is done by me.

I did a quick image search, and it seem the FZS 1000 switch looks the same, the only difference is the type of connector, but this is the easiest problem to solve. The harder part is this switch isn't available anymore...I simply bought a cheap switch from china, rewired it to match, and that's it.

English is not my first language - I mean the gears. The reason is the usual: I have to examine the gears, and shifter forks, it randomly jumps out of gears under load.Sooo, a complete engine disassembly waits for me, it seems....

The switchblocks on the handlebar looked tired on my bike, not surprisingly. Found a very similar (and affordable) set on Ali [ https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32899338822.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.435.6a4a1802d1IkEF ]. Recently installed it, and I would like to share my experience, for other owners, who wants to try it.- The connectors aren't the same. I bought new connectors on Ali, very cheap, I needed 2 pin (black coloured), 6 pin and 9 pin "2.8 mm" connector sets (white coloured), usually sold in 5 or 10 pcs in a bag, male and female versions. For example: [ https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001774997442.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000014.4.89e4slEGslEGAw ] These connectors are widespread on motorcycles.Using a multimeter and the factory wiring diagram I identified which wire goes where. The chinese swiches wired differently, they joined certain 12V and ground wires, which in theory could be OK, but the wires are thin, so I decided to make the wiring exactly the same as the originals. I had to add 2 extra wires per side, and separate some joined wires. The cluch switch connector must be changed to the new 2 pin black connector, the front brake switch connector remains as it is (I soldered over the crimping, to be honest I soldered over every crimped joints).
- The switch internals are good quality! That was a surprise, for the price. It's true, the Yamaha originals have metal tabs to hold the individual parts inside, but the the switches themselves are plastic. The aftermarked switches are built a little differently inside, no metal tabs, but they seemed good quality, I think they will work for a long time. Time will tell.- The new switches has positioning tabs, like the originals, and fit in the same position on the hadlebar.
- The new left switchblock has no choke lever, but it has a hazard lights button, I liked that, so installed a button on the choke directly on the left carburetor, and deleted the original remote choke lever.- I installed the switches, they work well, the hazard lights are working perfectly with the original flasher relay (bought an electronic one, just in case, but not needed)
GMTY

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Did some search here, and not sure if this was covered or not. Anyway, here it is: we did this swap yesterday on my buddys bike. The FZ1 internals complete with caps are a 100% fit into the non adjustable FZ8 forks. We just unscrewed the bottom allen bolt with an impact wrench, unscrewed the top cap, removed the old internals, drained oil, cleaned the fork inside, inserted the FZ1 ones, tightened bottom screw with impact wrench, poured in the oil (Motul 10W fork oil), did some air bleeding, bolted everything back and done. The internals are the same length btw.
We'll see how much improvement this means, if any.

I hope it will be recognized. Currently bastardized to "cafe racers", because cheap, reliable, plenty. But it will change. In my country I can register it as an "oldtimer" and can get an "OT-xxxx"-type license plate for it, in 2028.
To be honest the Fz/Fazer lineup never moved me, the only exception was the boxeye. For me is a cool looking bike, and the height of japanese reliabilty, true multipurpose bike, sporty if you want, comfortable if you want, has torque, has power, good sized but narrow tank, flickable, exceptional monoblock brake calipers etc., I could carry on forever. Never liked the newer versions, too much resemblance to virtually any other jap bikes of the era.
But last year finally bought a '98, and I don't plan to sell it, on contrary, did a complete restoration of it (except the everlasting engine).

Definitely interesting. Thanks for the report.

Last year I did a complete paint job, so while my memory is fresh, a couple of advices:

Engine enamel will be cured with heat from the engine (do not cook it too high, though). If you used the proper stuff, you're good to go. I used Motip Engine Paint, it seems to hold.

Tank paint: Did you use simple 1k acrylic paint from a spray can? There's a chance it never really will be fuel resistant. You can try to overcoat it with clear spray lacquer, but it will not adhere well, if it's not done while the original paint is fresh (ie. clear coat it in 1-2 hours after painting). If the original paint is non-metallic, you can roughen it a little with sanding (ie. 800-1000 grit) and then overcoat it with clear.

Proper solution is a 2k car paint, either from a spray can, or applied with spray gun. That will be cured properly and will be totally fuel and oil resistant in couple of days. Obviously I you want metallic, that will be a base + clear coat job.

One more thing: I've seen 1k acrylic paint sprays labeled "2k". The proper 2k (2 component) paint is 1 part paint + 1 part hardener (non 1:1 ratio in reality), which must be mixed before use. In spray can format there's a little red cap, which contains the hardener, you mix it in by pushing the red cap.
The fake 2k paint (or simple 1k acrylic paint) is 1 part paint + solvent, which will evaporate on apply, but these paints won't be "cured", instead "dried" only, hence the low resistance against chemicals.

When I bought my Fazer last year, the biggest problem was with the fuelling / carbs. It was somehow rideable, but very far from good.When I'm saying: rebuild it to avoid suffering, then I mean suffering = what you are doing now. You try to solve your problem, but who knows what's in a 20+ years old carb?
I decided to rebuild the carbs according to my list. Man... the rubber O-rings and seals were crumbling, cracking, they were hard, because of ethanol fuel and age. Brass parts were pitted because ethanol fuel absorbs water, water corrodes everything.IMHO the only solution is using those ethanol resistant viton seals (yes, you found the proper one on the litetek site), and replace brass parts beyond acceptable. I noted which jets needs to be replaced, and ordered them, but my sligthly pitted jets are still in the carbs now. With the cleaned, resealed, synchronised carbs the bike purrs like a kitten, totally worth it. I'll replace the jets later just for the peace of mind.If you know your carbs surely OK, then you can avoid a rebuild, but the Fazer is a simple bike; only a limited number of problems are possible: wrong valve gap, leaking carb boots, bad carbs. Maybe some ignition problem, but improbable.Let us know when you'll solve your problems, I'm curious!

Hi. I would do (I did) this, to avoid an endless suffering with the carbs:

0. while engine running spray brake cleaner around carb boots to check if they're airtight; idle should not change
1. order full seal, gasket and O-ring kit from [ https://www.litetek.co/ ]  (thai company, best quality and they have the proper sizes, quantities in their kit, and made of modern, ethanol infected fuel compatible materials (viton, etc.); don't buy from Yamaha!)
2. total carb disassembly, except butterfly + shaft
3. total cleaning with ultrasonic bath + compressed air, multiple times if needed, untill clean
4. check and replace every brass parts, which have signs of water (ethanol) erosion, or other damage
5. reassembly with new seals and new parts, put silicone grease on rubber parts while assembling
6. initial settings according to service manual (CO2 screw, etc)
7. carb balance, idle adjustment
8. success

I recommend the MRA clone spoiler, I bought one, and it works surprisingly well, in fact this way the Fazer is better than my previous TDM900 with any kind of touring screens.

I searched for a new fiberglass bellypan, mostly on Ebay. There are a few, but i didn't like the shape. And the price.
So I turned to good old Aliexpress, and found a modern looking belly pan - I mean "engine spoiler" for the BMW F900R/XR. I ordered a set, knowing that maybe I cannot fit it, and have to throw it into the trash. But, for the price (US$ 42) it worth a try. After a lof of cutting and welding converted the BMW specific mounting hardware to fit the FZS, and also had to cut out some plastic on the left to avoid a cooling hose. Here's the result: