Anyway, I've seen a fair few FZ6 for sale and have done a ton of reading around the subject. I am hoping that a member of this club is as picky about their own machine as I am about my RX8s and might be looking to sell their bike at some point in the future.
Quote from: SmuttyHutty on 16 April 2022, 05:57:25 pmAnyway, I've seen a fair few FZ6 for sale and have done a ton of reading around the subject. I am hoping that a member of this club is as picky about their own machine as I am about my RX8s and might be looking to sell their bike at some point in the future. I have the FZ6-SA (ABS 2004-2006 model)The S2 was a slightly improved model with better brake calipers, for example, but either model is good.If you're going to buy one, here's my list of some of the things to look at before you do: (I saved this post a while ago for the next time someone asked this question... )Provided it's had reasonable care taken of it, they're good, reliable bikes. Here's some stuff to check before you buy it...Firstly, the FZ6 drops into first gear like the Crack of Doom! This is, incredibly, absolutely normal.Check the exhaust headers for signs of rust. If they're bad, it means other, important work probably hasn't been done.Put the bike on the centre stand and get someone to push down on the back. Using fingertip pressure, tip the handlebars to one side and the other and see if you can feel any grinding, clicking or rough sensations which could indicate the headset bearings are knackered (which is a bugger of a job to fix!)Also take hold of the front wheel and see if you can pull the forks back and forth which would also indicate a dodgy headset.Bounce the forks up and down and look for any signs of oil leaking from the fork seals.Check the rear shock and see what condition it's in. Clean? Rusty? Can you change the preload setting or is it stuck in place because it's never been moved and it's covered in crud? Put your finger under the chain a little bit back from the centre stand and try to push it up against the swing arm. If it goes really easily or you can't get it there at all, it's too loose or tight. If it takes a bit of effort to hold it there, the tension is probably ok.Feel the gaps between the teeth on the rear sprocket, if you can feel a "lip" or a "hook" instead of a smooth curve, it's on the way out and would need replacing as well as the front sprocket and chain.With the rear wheel off the ground, check to see if you can wiggle the wheel or swing arm back and forward or from side to side. Either could mean knackered bearings which would need to be replaced.Run the bike until it's warm, then switch off and let it sit for a few minutes. Check the oil level on the centre stand and make sure it's ok.Other things to ask...If it's done nearly 24k (or 48k) miles, ask if the valve clearances have been checked, if they haven't and they need new shims, that's an expensive job if you get it done by a mechanic.The brake pipes are supposed to be replaced every 4 years, so ask if they've been done (although I did mine after 14 and they were fine, I just wanted braided lines).Ask if the spark plugs and oil filter have been changed (recommended every 12k miles) air filter (25k miles) None of these last ones are necessarily critical, the FZ6 is pretty reliable, but it would show that the bike has been cared for.There's probably more, but that's a few to be going on with!If you're happy with it, enjoy!
Mileage, condition and service history are the usual suspects but it is intriguing seeing the variation.
Being it's the start of Spring, it's supposed to be the best time to sell as there's more demand.Mostly though, I think it's either that they've got an overly rosy view of how wonderful their bike is, or just what someone believes they can get away with!
Yay be ready for the summer then
Quote from: FazThou on 19 April 2022, 01:36:57 pmYay be ready for the summer then Aye. Got the transition from 125 to 650 booked for Sunday.
Excellent! BTW the top box is useful to compensate for the tiny under-seat storage capacity... :-/ I did think about keeping it but will stick with a rucksack as it limits what I can buy from Sainsbury's!A few other suggestions for upgrades in order of ease of doing:1) Look on YouTube for videos (Dave Moss is a good one) showing how to adjust the bike's ergonomics to fit you, rather than you fitting the bike. Will do straight away. Thank you for the tip.2) Do the MT07 Clutch Actuator Arm mini modification that gives you a lighter clutch pull and longer in the friction zone: https://www.beginnerbiker.com/2019/09/fz6-mini-mod-fixing-heavy-clutch/ I saw a chap on YouTube doing this and noted it as an option - definitely on the list if I get RSI from the clutch lever/cable.3) Install a Power Commander or similar ECU modification to smooth out the fuel delivery and stop the lag when you roll on the power after a bend. Waaaaay beyond my competance, this. If I went down this route it would be with a bigger boy holding my hand I think.4) Put on braided brake lines for better stopping Already shopping for HEL lines, but front only. I've read that braided on the back makes the brake a little bit grabby but I am happy to listen to more experienced folk than me.5) Swap the OEM fork springs and rear shock for a decent set of aftermarket ones (Hyperpro and YSS on mine) for a much better ride. Think I'll start with 15W fork oil first, and change the seals just as preventative maintenance whilst I am there. But if someone knows of 0.95kg rated front springs going at a decent price then I am happy to receive a PM. Seen a Shock Factory M shock for sale which will suit my weight....Enjoy it
Quote3) Install a Power Commander or similar ECU modification Waaaaay beyond my competance, this. If I went down this route it would be with a bigger boy holding my hand I think.
3) Install a Power Commander or similar ECU modification
I've read that braided on the back makes the brake a little bit grabby
Quote5) Swap the OEM fork springs and rear shock for a decent set of aftermarket ones Think I'll start with 15W fork oil first
5) Swap the OEM fork springs and rear shock for a decent set of aftermarket ones
Any spring retailer recommendations? I am pretty sure that with my weight (flipping lockdown added to my girth and I am now doing the not fun thing of losing it) I am looking at 0.95kg rated springs. I've read that linear is preferable to progressive...
Chill, relax and breathe, you'll be fine. Just jump through the hoops you need to jump through. You won't truly start learning until you're free to make and learn from your own mistakes. You'll be fine