Rear Brake Service Kit

[Middy2000]

The time has come where my rear brake is now longer functioning as it should.  To my knowledge it's never needed any remedial work so it's time to have it serviced.
Lacking the skills to do it myself I'm entrusting my local garage with it.  The said it would be cheaper to get a kit myself.


Question is....do I need the full kit with bleed nipple etc... or just a kit with the seals?  I'm going to have the pistons changed too.
Been advised to avoid Ebay ones as they aren't the best but I'll be guided by yourselves on that front?


And advice on kits would be most welcome.  And pads whilst I'm there.....

[Gnasher]

The kit/s are available from Yamaha these are with and without pistons

1. A piston and seals (one side) is 51L-W0057-00 £71.71 last time I bought and fitted one, you'll need 2 kits if you want to replace both sides.

2. Seal kit this contains seals for both sides i.e. 2 main and 2 dust seals 51L-W0047-11 £38.33 last time I bought a kit.

You can get cheaper and almost same quality: - 

Yambits
Piston and seal kit £19.99 https://yambits.co.uk/fzs600-fazer-brake-caliper-piston-kit-rear-p-27154.html

Seal kit £5.99 you need 2 of them https://yambits.co.uk/fzs600-fazer-brake-caliper-piston-seal-kit-rear-p-18070.html

If you or the stealer are going to do the job properly, the caliper should be be split.  In which case I would recommend you also replace the caliper body seal Yamaha don't supply this.  They either intend the body isn't split (possible but harder and needs specialist tools to do the job, to guarantee not damaging the pistons) or reused, Which is possible but often the seal has become hardened and won't reseal properly if reused. 

In which case you need this from Yambits £2.99 https://yambits.co.uk/fzs600-fazer-brake-caliper-body-fluid-seal-rear-p-92407.html of the same part can be obtained from Suzuki's GS500 rear caliper.   

These kits from Yambits are good quality although not as good as OE, it's personal choice and pocket depth.

There is others like Wemto but I personally don't use them, I found their quality to be crap and not much better or the same as crap cheap fleebay stuff.

Other parts may also be required if they can't be cleaned or are damaged

Pad pins you may need 2

Yamaha
4FL-25924-00 £10.74 each

Yambits
https://yambits.co.uk/fzs600-fazer-brake-caliper-pad-pin-kit-rear-p-55618.html £6.99

Bleed screws you may need 2

Yamaha
15BW004800 £13.45 each this includes the dust cap

Yambits
https://yambits.co.uk/fzs600-fazer-brake-caliper-bleed-nipple-rear-p-5935.html £2.99

https://yambits.co.uk/fzs600-fazer-bleed-screw-nipple-cover-p-29313.html £1.25

It's also possible the Pad support shim is corroded/broken

This is only available from Yamaha 51L-25919-00 £12.64

All that said the actual condition of the caliper bodies, pistons etc will determine what you actually need.  Pistons can be cleaned and reused for example, the same may apply to bleed nipples, pad pins, dust cap and pad support.     

[Middy2000]

Thanks for that. My head is officially spinning.

[Middy2000]

So an update.

Got told that a new motorcycle place had opened near me so i gave them a ring. They'd only been open a few days as a new business but had loads of experience between them.

Explained the issue and they knew the FZS and the caliper design fault.
Quoted £60 to supply and fit the service kit including pistons. 
Dropped her off and 24hrs later get a call to say it's done.
They found a fair bit of corrosion so gave it a real good clean up and replaced seals etc & one piston.

They said they felt a bit bad charging £75 owing to the extra time cleaning up the caliper but they did notice my centre stand was stiff so took it off and regreased it and also topped up my tyre pressures.  They'd obviously given the bike a good check over.

Brake feels spots on. They're getting an MOT bay next week so she'll be going back for that.

Cadwell Motorcycles Ltd
Louth
Lincolnshire

[NJD]

I've only just seen this but just to give my two cents...


You were quoted sixty pounds and then told seventy-five, that's a joke: both the amount and them changing price. Them also doing work on your bike that you didn't ask them too would grind my gears. You never really need to remove the centre stand at all, but agree it does get stiff. Just simply lye down on the ground and spray water or brake cleaner or degreaser into the middle of the mounting bolt on either side whilst working the stand with your hand up and down and it will eventually free and work as normal. Never try to remove it at home, the things a pain in the arse to fit.


Getting a track pump from halfords or alike with a PSI gauge on and topping the tyres up once a week is usually enough. Make sure you do it before a ride when the tyres are cold.


The job doesn't take twenty-four hours, that's just them being lazy. It takes an hour or two at most. Here's what you'll need for next time:


brake piston seal kit


brake fluid DOT 4


brake bleeder


sealey brake caliper tool


Then the standard socket (14 mm) and an allen key to get the bottom holding bolts out. A baby seringe from a pharmacy to reverse bleed the caliper usually speeds up the job to get the air out the system before bleeding conventionally.


You wont need to replace the pistons again in the time that you own the bike if you clean them regualrly, don't be fooled into thinking its normal to buy them every time.


Remember to take the calliper off the bike (that doesn't mean take the brake hose off) and clean the brake every nown and again. It will gunk up inside because of how its located, but that doesn't mean it needs rebuilding. Simply take the pads out, pump the pistons a little and spray the brake cleaner and clean with a toothbrush (get a pack of four for £1 from anywhere so you've got spares), push back in with sealey tool and then put brake pads back in with copper grease on the back, put pins in then pump rear brake pedal and jobs done.


You only need to rebuild the caliper (minus pistons) every year or two.

Save yourself money and always rebuild the rear on your own: simply take the caliper off the bike, remove the pads and then pump the pistons out with a block of wood or something in the middle so they come out evenly. Then use a pair of caliper piston pliers to wriggle them free.


The front brake calipers is where you need a shop since you usually have to do one side then the other and that means tkaing them off, rebuild attaching to bike bleeding and then again on the other side: or compressed air if you've got it.

[darrsi]

I've only just seen this but just to give my two cents...


You were quoted sixty pounds and then told seventy-five, that's a joke: both the amount and them changing price. Them also doing work on your bike that you didn't ask them too would grind my gears. You never really need to remove the centre stand at all, but agree it does get stiff. Just simply lye down on the ground and spray water or brake cleaner or degreaser into the middle of the mounting bolt on either side whilst working the stand with your hand up and down and it will eventually free and work as normal. Never try to remove it at home, the things a pain in the arse to fit.


Getting a track pump from halfords or alike with a PSI gauge on and topping the tyres up once a week is usually enough. Make sure you do it before a ride when the tyres are cold.


The job doesn't take twenty-four hours, that's just them being lazy. It takes an hour or two at most. Here's what you'll need for next time:


brake piston seal kit


brake fluid DOT 4


brake bleeder


sealey brake caliper tool


Then the standard socket (14 mm) and an allen key to get the bottom holding bolts out. A baby seringe from a pharmacy to reverse bleed the caliper usually speeds up the job to get the air out the system before bleeding conventionally.


You wont need to replace the pistons again in the time that you own the bike if you clean them regualrly, don't be fooled into thinking its normal to buy them every time.


Remember to take the calliper off the bike (that doesn't mean take the brake hose off) and clean the brake every nown and again. It will gunk up inside because of how its located, but that doesn't mean it needs rebuilding. Simply take the pads out, pump the pistons a little and spray the brake cleaner and clean with a toothbrush (get a pack of four for £1 from anywhere so you've got spares), push back in with sealey tool and then put brake pads back in with copper grease on the back, put pins in then pump rear brake pedal and jobs done.


You only need to rebuild the caliper (minus pistons) every year or two.

Save yourself money and always rebuild the rear on your own: simply take the caliper off the bike, remove the pads and then pump the pistons out with a block of wood or something in the middle so they come out evenly. Then use a pair of caliper piston pliers to wriggle them free.


The front brake calipers is where you need a shop since you usually have to do one side then the other and that means tkaing them off, rebuild attaching to bike bleeding and then again on the other side: or compressed air if you've got it.

The centre stand is dead easy to remove and refit? Undo one bolt, then remove the other and using the stand you can take the tension off the spring, and remove the stand. To put back on, put one bolt on first (not tight yet) then use the stand to stretch the spring until you can apply the other bolt. It really is easy to do. Obviously clean it all up then regrease the areas before reapplying the stand.


Price is about right for an hours work, if he got 2 hours out of them then the money paid was a bargain.


I always service all my calipers once or even twice a year myself, normally just before winter and just after, so around the same dates as the clocks change times. Not only does it keep them functioning properly, but will also prevent seizures from happening unexpectedly too.
Something you never mentioned though was to use Red Rubber Grease on the outer exposed part of the pistons once they're cleaned. The grease can prevent dust and shite getting inside the caliper via the outer side of the piston so is another preventative measure.
I find it quite relaxing to do in my own time, plus it will save you money, is a learning curve so after a few times you will find it gets much easier to do, and once done you'll feel quite satisfied about what you just achieved.


As for the keeping the air pumped up i carry an electric pump in my top box that does the job very efficiently and is compact to carry. After a bit of research, and a few previous equipment failures, i bought a German made AIRMAN pump, and it's been extremely good and relliable. (make sure you get one that comes with the battery crocodile clips) https://airman-uk.com/product/tour-adventure-compressor/

[robbo]

A    for the Airman for sure, however I have found it a bit big and bulky, especially when away on a trip and space is at a premium. After reading a test in Ride magazine a few months ago, I’m now carrying a rechargeable Sealey CTi120 air pump. It’s about twice the price of the Airman unfortunately, but fits into a tank bag or tailback a lot easier in my opinion. One of those gadgets that you carry for years hoping you never need it, but glad you did, when you do .

[darrsi]

A    for the Airman for sure, however I have found it a bit big and bulky, especially when away on a trip and space is at a premium. After reading a test in Ride magazine a few months ago, I’m now carrying a rechargeable Sealey CTi120 air pump. It’s about twice the price of the Airman unfortunately, but fits into a tank bag or tailback a lot easier in my opinion. One of those gadgets that you carry for years hoping you never need it, but glad you did, when you do .

Reason i bought the Airman was because i had a leak in one my tyre rims one year over winter and kept rolling outside to a different department at work to quickly use their air pump about once or twice a week, and although nobody actually said anything to me i eventually felt like i was intruding their space which made me loo into getting my own electric pump.
I'd tried a pump before but with little knowledge about them just tried a cheap version, but think it only lasted a couple of goes then overheated, so i did a search online for the best buys out there and the Airman was on the list.
And by pure chance, at the time we were buying certain types of equipment that each came with a free padded bag and after trying one out the Airman fitted perfectly inside one as if it was made for the job, so i asked to have one and it now sits permanently in my top box along with all my wet gear, several types of gloves each used per weather, and a few tools if and when needed, along with a bike manual as well.

[robbo]

More than happy with the performance and robustness of the Airman, in fact I believe some car companies supply it with a plug kit in lieu of a spare wheel. I’d recommend one at the drop of a hat. If it wasn’t for the Ride magazine article I doubt if I’d be aware of cordless air pumps, and got sold on it’s packability more than anything. Hopefully the Sealey will serve as well as the Airman.