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Messages - wildchild74
26
« on: 02 March 2015, 10:02:04 pm »
A good fitting flat screwdriver should do the trick  has a bit more bite. They will loosen with a crack and frighten the crap out of you 
Anti clockwise of course 
Lol cheers for that m8 I just need to find some clear pipe to fit on the nipples to go into petrol can as the bikes in the yard now n if I get petrol all over the floor the missus will kill me as that's where the dog plays/craps lol Gaz
27
« on: 02 March 2015, 09:50:30 pm »
The drain screws are made of soft cheese unfortunately.
Look on AJ Sutton website.
Cheers m8y will do now Gaz
28
« on: 02 March 2015, 09:32:10 pm »
Right the plan for tonite was drain tank, drain fuel filter till I get new one, and drain down carb bowls but do you think I could budge those drain screws not a chance started to knacker one so I stopped so couldn't carry on with my plan of filling with fresh petrol and half a bottle of STP complete fuel system treatment b4 I start stripping the carbs down....soo is there a special screwdriver for these screws,can I get replacements n I'm sure I've read they shouldn't be too tight as the bowl will crack so do you think these have never been undone and drained thanks
Gaz
29
« on: 01 March 2015, 07:15:01 pm »
I would think so, I normally use cellulose thinners to clean the jets as it will shift the crap in the jets. If you want to poke something through the jets to clear them or dislodge the crap, use brass wire as it will not damage the jets, since they are also brass, some will cringe as the thought of poking something through the jets, but brass on brass is fine.
If the bike is left on the side stand for a long period then the first carb to be effected by fuel evaporation will be 4 and then 3.
Hi m8 ive got 5ltr drum of mek cleaner that i use at work now could i use this on the jets and float bowls as long i remove any o rings n stuff like that....what im getting at is would the mek affect the brass many thanks Gaz
30
« on: 01 March 2015, 12:03:47 am »
I would think so, I normally use cellulose thinners to clean the jets as it will shift the crap in the jets. If you want to poke something through the jets to clear them or dislodge the crap, use brass wire as it will not damage the jets, since they are also brass, some will cringe as the thought of poking something through the jets, but brass on brass is fine.
If the bike is left on the side stand for a long period then the first carb to be effected by fuel evaporation will be 4 and then 3.
Yeah that makes sense as it is on side stand all the time and 4 is coolest and 3 a bit warmer 2 n 1 red hot cheers Gaz
31
« on: 28 February 2015, 10:36:41 pm »
Sounds like blocked pilot jets.
Is that strip carbs n clean then Gaz
32
« on: 28 February 2015, 09:50:56 pm »
Did you use the choke when starting it?
Yes m8 do you think that could have something to do with it n i may try draining the float bowls next Gaz
33
« on: 28 February 2015, 04:53:29 pm »
The resistors in the NGK one are wire wound whereas the Yamaha OEM ones are Carbon.
The carbon ones are cheaper to manufacture, but their resistance values can vary by 20%.
The wire wound ones are more accurate, normally within 5%.
The carbon type age badly and the resistance rises as they get older and coupled with corrosion it plays havoc with the spark, causing misfires, poor starting and all sorts of other issues
Be sure to clean the brass piece deep in the cap also. I usually spray the inside of the cap with WD40 before reassembly
If you put back the original caps with the NGK resistors pack the top of the cap with vaseline before replacing the rubber boot, no more water ingress.
Hi folks next update done all the above inc changing oem resistors for cleaned up ngk ones started it up with a loud pop now i remember i think petrol or somthing was dripping from the joint where the can joins the pipe thats y i turned it off the other day.... anyway as said started sweet as a nut and ran lovely not a chug anywhere went up and down the road sound no chugging so left it to idle n then it started chugg chugg but if i rev it hard theres no chugg....so guys whats the next step b4 stripping the carbs down....really do appreciate your help on this thanks Gaz
34
« on: 27 February 2015, 08:07:01 pm »
Will deffo try that tomorrow after getting the car remapped in the morning n let you know how it goes cheers buddy
Gaz
35
« on: 27 February 2015, 06:30:06 pm »
I will try that unfazed wondered what those slots were for cheers bud
Gaz
Hi there i done that on the old ngk ones and they were clean but i then tried it on the one on the bike and the risister isnt too bad but one end of the spring was really corroded so i quickly cleaned them up with sandpaper but not had time to start it but will tomorrow.... are the risisters in the ngk one better than oem ones....many thanks Gaz
36
« on: 23 February 2015, 07:54:40 pm »
I will try that unfazed wondered what those slots were for cheers bud
Gaz
37
« on: 23 February 2015, 06:25:00 pm »
Hi folks just a little update tried trimming leads...no change so i won oem coils n leads on ebay came today and fitted them.....missing all over the shop so took them of 1 by 1 and screwed leads in to the caps fired it up n no misfire at all took it out for 10 mins and all it does now is when coming down the gears it sounds like theres a slight misfire but to be honest carbs prob need balancing and its still running the additive thru so not worried about at the mo so thanks for all your input lads
Gaz
38
« on: 17 February 2015, 09:52:07 pm »
Looking at these plug cap arnt oem as these are straight not 45° bends so the lead bit coming out of the cap is always bent so im hoping that is the problem and going to bike shop tomorrow and getting 1.5 metres of lead and 4 new caps hopefully 45° bends
Gaz
If you try what me & unfazed suggest above then it might save you the bother.
Just unscrew the lead from each cap &snip off the ends....i dunno maybe 10-15mm, screw the lead back to the cap & see if it makes a difference. Nothing to lose if it doesnt work but if it does then at least you know.
Thanks lads i will try that tomorrow... and i just thought they may be cheap replacements and the chap in the bike shop told me that i could put new leads into coils but as i said im no expert or mechanics but i am a quick learner but once again thanks for all your input Gaz
39
« on: 17 February 2015, 04:32:18 pm »
Looking at these plug cap arnt oem as these are straight not 45° bends so the lead bit coming out of the cap is always bent so im hoping that is the problem and going to bike shop tomorrow and getting 1.5 metres of lead and 4 new caps hopefully 45° bends
Gaz
40
« on: 16 February 2015, 10:00:51 pm »
Does anyone know where i can get this stuff from uk although i do wanna give it a try. But although im no expert or mechanic but i dont think its fuel more electrical as every time it misses its a different cylinder each time
Gaz
41
« on: 16 February 2015, 09:21:12 pm »
[size=19px !important]Profi Fuel Max - Fuel system & carburetor cleaner[/size][size=21px !important][/size]Great product. Purchased for my Yamaha FZS 600 Fazer (1999). It had been running very roughly (low revs, inconsistent tickover, low speed running, hesitation etc) since purchase in the spring of 2014. Did all the usual stuff - new plugs, checked plug caps,coils etc (all within spec) even purchased new TPS (ouch!) but problem remained. It was during a conversation with a mechanic that I found out that regular unleaded petrol had up to 10% Ethanol in it. Apparently it goes off after a month and leaves a residue particularly in the pilot jets (hence the poor low speed running). The bike was due to go into the garage for a carb cleaning session (about 2 hours labour ~£100). Read about Profi fuel so decided to give it a try. Took a third of the can (90mls) to the garage and filled up with Shell Vmax (less ethanol content) and filled the tank. Pleasantly surprised - running really well after 20 miles; by 50 miles engine is as sweet as a nut! Perfect low speed running, no hesitation and constant tickover. This product also stops the water content in the fuel rusting the tank during winter storage. If you are laying up your bike for the winter its probably better to drain the tank and run the carbs dry and fill up with fresh fuel next Spring.
In summary - if you are experiencing poor running give this product a try first, rather than last - you could save a great deal of cash on unnecessary parts and labour costs.[/size][size=21px !important][/color]
Hi m8 thanks for that but the only fuel I use is esso premium as it apparently got no ethanol so no moisture build up as I don't use it everyday but I will look into that stuff ta m8 Gaz
42
« on: 16 February 2015, 05:37:12 pm »
Dont know if it means anything but there is a slight backfire/popping noise but it has got a race can on
Gaz
43
« on: 16 February 2015, 05:13:48 pm »
I drained down the carbs and put full bottle of redex in a couple of litres of fuel and run it again then again after changing plugs then just been out to test the battery with a multimeter n thats ok n when it was chugging away if felt the pipe and i could hold no4 but others were red hot couldnt touch them im wondering now coilpacks and leads???
44
« on: 16 February 2015, 04:13:24 pm »
Bump anyone
Gaz
45
« on: 15 February 2015, 10:00:44 pm »
Hi folks got a bit of a problem on my 98 fazer 600 with 40000 miles on it....its developed a misfire when warm over last couple of weeks but bear in mind I can only get out on it on weekend for an hour or two and its kept outside under cover....now when I start it on full chock it struggles abit but starts and the first time it happened it sounded like a diesel so I touched the downpipes and no2 was warm so I took caps off n refitted them and it ran fine then last week went out on it Friday and Saturday only slight misfire at low revs ok over 3.5k but went out Sunday it was a right bag of nails and touched pipes again and no3 was warm so I put new plugs in today and it really struggled to start but when I did it was really smooth till it warmed up then slightly missing again but I had to out so couldn't do anymore.... Any suggestions thanks
Gaz
46
« on: 09 October 2014, 10:57:26 am »
Welcome, nice bike, where abouts in Shropshire
Albrighton, Nr Cosford.
Hi m8 im new too and just round the corner from you in perton and used to work in albrighton Gaz
47
« on: 09 October 2014, 08:00:03 am »
Hi Gaz.Congrats on passing your module 2  .Hope you get to have a run out on your Fazer soon,just go steady with the right hand for a while  .
Cheers m8 n will do Gaz
48
« on: 08 October 2014, 08:36:53 pm »
Hi folks newbie here...I'm gaz from Wolverhampton and I passed mod 2 last wed n got a 98 fazer 600 this Monday but not rode the bugger yet as had to repair the tank which I've done tonite but still no chance of getting out on it lol. Hope to chat to folk soon
Gaz
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